A lot of professionals and homeowners all around the world are pretty passionate about savings old wood windows. The Allback family has done an incredible job researching the benefits of wood window restoration, as well as bringing back the Traditional Purified Linseed Oil Products (paints, oils, waxes, etc.). Check out the links below for their incredible story (Hans Allback became sick from using solvents and began looking for healthier, more effective alternatives to modern products), research and case studies (they offer a lot of data on the work they have done at Palace of Versailles and other European estates/projects), and hands-on education on how to use the materials in their Allback Handbook. Earth+Flax is working to create more resources for those interested in the USA. Look out for all the videos soon to come! Allback Handbook: www.dropbox.com/s/pn314ioc8zajd77/webLilla%20Handboken%20ENG%202017.pdf?dl=0 Window Restoration Training Material: www.dropbox.com/s/ce9qq380bz3o114/Allback%20Training%20Course%202015%20English%20version.pdf?dl=0 Research and Publications: linoljeprodukter.se/international/publications
Thank you this definitely the most comprehensive and helpful vid on the matter I’ve seen. - but one hang up, why does it “HAVE to be Allback Organic Raw Linseed Oil or it won’t work”?
I hate to sound all preservationist-like, but often the restoration process is more about keeping and maintaining the old and oftentimes original materials which add to the overall aesthetic of the building. It's not hard to make the argument that newer, factory-made triple-pane windows are more energy efficient. What really matters are your priorities. If you value efficiency and energy cost savings over aesthetics and period details, then go buy yourself a well-made new window. For some folks, putting on a sweater and burning a little more oil is just part of living in an old house. You don't drive an antique car for it's fuel efficiency and reliability; if that's what you want, go buy a new car. But there's something about those old cars...and old houses. Anyway, I'll just keep on trying to convince people not to throw everything in the dumpster. If you must, please call a restoration pro first and have them take 'em off your hands!
IMO much of the character of an old building is in the old windows. I live in a village in Bulgaria and it really bothers me to see the old fashioned windows being torn out and replaced by uPVC.
This spring with the virus shut down I started refinishing my 20 single pane double hung 1914 Arizona old traditional windows with internal counter weights and brass hardware. I love the old traditional windows. It was like being taught by the architect as I restored each piece. I tightened up each window and insulated each side pocket too. I have already maxed the insulation in the attic, walls, and floor and I have long window drapes keeping the heat inside. Now I have started putting plexiglass in the windows just for the winter for an addition air zone of insulation. It allows the electric thermal floor slab under the bed and desk to silently and comfortably heat the bedroom.
I’m keeping my 150 yr old growth wood windows. I have to say that they wanted $80,000 to replace my windows with vinyl. I just picked up all the double pane glass, spacers, butyl and weather strips for about $5000. $75000 savings will heat my house for about 500 years
Great guide, thanks. I definitely managed to scorch the wood with the silent paint remover though. I’m not sure if it’s just what I’m working on, the side of the door I’m current working only has a thin layer of paint on it.
Great to hear! If you haven't already, take a look at our newest wood window restoration video using the DANA Linseed Oil Putty and Viking Linseed Oil Paint: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VXnEwrelg_c.html Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com if you have any questions.
This is one of the best and most complete videos I've seen on how to restore a window. The only thing I do is I drop some water on the pane to cool it down as I am heating/scraping. It saves the windows from cracking. Also, the silent paint remover will blacken the surface if left too long in one spot.
Do you know of any tutorials on using similar products for old overhangs that are caked on with paint? I've been removing it with the Cobra paint remover, but it does not come off anywhere near as well as it seems to come off of your windows. It could be not using Linseed Oil, but I'm not sure if I should use that because I'm not sure if I'll be using Linseed oil paint for the repaint.
Hmm the Cobra should be the same technology as The Silent Paint Remover and usually the more layers of paint the better with infrared. That said there are some coatings that are not responsive to heat like milk paint and shellac. Such coatings are rarely found on exterior facades but that could be a factor to consider. Is the paint softening at all? Perhaps it is very dry and the Purified Linseed Oil would help reconstitute it, although as you hinted at you don't want to soak the wood with a lot oil of you plan to use a plastic paint. If the coating is not responding at all to the infrared heat, then you probably have to find another paint removal option. Feel free to email info@earthandflax.com with more project details. Thanks for your question!
Hello, thank you for this great video. I was wondering if the same technique could be used on interior surfaces to remove varnish or polyurethane from wood. Thanks
Great video. Using your strategy/procedure for heating the putting, what is your incidence of cracking panes of glass. Do you prefer the tape or the cardboard? Thanks.
Great to hear the video was helpful. I am neurotically careful about covering the glass when heating with infrared so rarely have issues with breakage (I also do not do window restoration as a profession so work rather slowly/carefully). If it happens, it is usually very thin, old glass. I prefer the covered cardboard so I can move it around as needed and cover certain areas of the wood I've already heated for example. It is really up to personal preference I think so experiment on an extra or salvaged sash to find what works best for you. Also, if you are working on a lot of sashes, there is an infrared Putty Lamp that uses a different type of bulb where there is no risk of breaking glass. Glass must be clean for this tool to work effectively. Not something we have added to the website yet, but I can source it if needed. Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out to info@earthandflax.com with additional questions.
I can source a large, square "Big Dog" scraper blade that is essentially designed to be filed down to match a profile. If you already have a method for doing something similar, that is great!
You should have gloves, eye protection, and respirator rated for lead. You most likely have lead in those windows even though the top coat may be acrylic.
Glad you enjoyed anyway! The music reminds me of old school This Old House and home reno shows I'd watch as a kid with my dad. Super cheesy but somehow nostalgic! Feel free to reach out with questions on infrared paint removal, wood window restoration, and traditional linseed oil products, etc. at info@earthandflax.com.
Glad to hear it was helpful - check out our newest window restoration video using the DANA Linseed Oil Putty as well on our channel. Reach out to info@earthandflax.com with any questions about traditional Windowcraft methods.
As long as you use a purified/degummed, higher quality linseed oil, you can in theory use either for window restoration. We would recommend a heated, drying Purified Linseed Oil for most applications. For exterior applications, the Viking Purified Linseed Oil has a small molecular structure, soaks in deeply, and has a 48 hr timeframe typically. A very useful, versatile oil to use. Be careful using a true Swedish raw linseed oil as it will take a long time to fully dry. A purified boiled linseed oil like the Ottosson Boiled LO can also be used. It has a little faster dry time, is what the Ottosson Linseed Oil Paint is made with, and has a larger molecular structure (doesn't soak in as deeply/quickly). Hope this is helpful!
Is there a method of getting the glass out of the lower sash, where the glass is inserted into a kerf in the meeting rail? I've found that this part is very difficult and I've broken several windows trying to remove glass from the lower sash
Hi John, It sometimes can be tricky to achieve a stain or varnish grade surface and much depends on the condition of the wood. A trick with infrared is to apply some Viking Purified Raw Linseed Oil to the surface, heat with the infrared tool, and use some steel wool to clean out the grain. Repeat as needed.
To each their own but it is actually not that difficult to remove the sashes. If you are ever contemplating replacing old windows, it is always worth considering restoration, not only for the historic appearance but also the quality of wood/materials used that are unavailable today.
Where did you get that roller putty remover?? It's not listed or available at any of the sites you have listed. I'm doing 23 windows and that would help so much! Thanks for the great tips! Terri S.
THE SITE ABOVE WWW.PAINTBRUSHESANDROLLERS.COMHAVE TO SEARCH BUT ITS THEREJUST GOT MINE IN MAIL TODAYIRWIN MARPLES 19mm 3/4" S19T /or/ SI9T chisel with roller
You can order the roller chisel in the tools section on the silent paint remover site. I just ordered this system and can't wait to get my dirty old windows cleaned up
It is often best to assume all old sashes may have lead paint present. That is one of the reasons why infrared is a good choice for paint removal - lower operating temp. It is always advisable to wear proper safety gear, including a respirator, as even modern coatings can have safety concerns associated. Dampen and dispose of debris as directed by your local community waste management location.
@@Earthandflaxstudio lead is also a problem when it contacts the skin, gloves are annoying but I wish I had known this when I started this kind of work. Lead poisoning is not fun, and permanent according to my doctor.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Take a look at my newest wood window restoration video as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VXnEwrelg_c.html
Hi Joseph, Check your local regulations as if lead is present in the paint it is usually required to drop off bags of paint waste at the nearest hazardous waste collection site or designated recycling center. Different municipalities may have different requirements. Feel free to send project or Linseed Oil Product questions to info@earthandflax.com anytime!
U don't need to do it. You can next morning put the crunchy old putty and paint chips into the bowl, add some 3,2% milk a bit of cocoa (natural the best but can be Nesquik) and eat this shit.
What is the chisel that has the guides on it? Is this a regular chisel that has been modified or the guides attached much like the ones used for stair construction.
I just ordered one from www.paintbrushesandrollers ,comlisted above. could not find one on ebay /amazon/Irwin marples.got it in mail todayIrwin Marples 19mm 3/4" S19T / or SI9T.....cant really read the stamping
Hi gary24752, The Chisel w/Roller is a modified chisel and we have had a few folks make their own. Ours can be found at www.silentpaintremover.com on the accessories page or at www.earthandflax.com. Direct link here: www.earthandflax.com/item/chisel-w-roller
You can order the roller chisel in the tools section on the silent paint remover site. I just ordered this system and can't wait to get my dirty old windows cleaned up
The white chalk can be found at www.solventfreepaint.com but we do recommend pumice powder for certain applications so be sure to look at both depending on your project. Pumice Powder: www.solventfreepaint.com/window_glazing.htm White Chalk: www.solventfreepaint.com/accessories.htm
That is great to hear! Glad it was helpful. Check out our newest window restoration video using the DANA Linseed Oil Putty and Viking Linseed Oil Paint: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VXnEwrelg_c.html Feel free to reach out with questions at info@earthandflax.com anytime.
"If you are using a good quality scraper then little to no sanding may be required" is what the lady said. Now a good quality scraper will cost you a fair few quid, just looked at one of my on line suppliers and a 4" scraper will cost you £72 with blades being about £40, these blades will be able to be re-sharpened using a whetstone in the same way a carpenter sharpens his chisels, this is not a £2.50 piece of junk from a box seller. The finish from a sharp scraper is very fine, just think of a cabinet makers scraper which is used as a finishing tool.
Can anyone tell me where I can find 'inorganic' linseed oil!? People using these terms should learn what they actually mean instead of just using popular buzz words.
Hi Stephen, Thanks for your comment. Most generic linseed oil products are pretty much petrochemical products at this point and the Allback Method in Scandinavian Windowcraft circles has always used the term "organic" for linseed oil/linseed oil paint. Today, I think the term Purified Linseed Oil is perhaps a better term and one I use more so to divide a natural linseed oil that has had the proteins removed and heated to create a RLO or BLO vs. a petrochemical linseed oil that uses chemical driers and other additives (fungicides, pesticides, etc.) to combat the downsides of not removing the protein. In newer videos, you will notice "purified" has pretty much replaced "organic."
Did this to the inside of my basement windows. Two of the windows have a crack in them. Put tape on them for now. New windows aren’t in the budget right now. Doing the outside next.
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