Winter Lawn Tips + Put Your Grass To Sleep the Right Way 

And my 5 year old daughter! Lol!

It's been a tough one, but let's finish strong!

How big is the yard? I'm at about 26,000 sq/ft and I have to focus on specific areas and let other areas go. Not sure how people with larger lawns are able to do it! I have maple and oak, my best advice is to get the biggest, baddest commercial backpack blower you can afford. I started with a small battery blower, that wasn't enough, went with a handheld gas, still not enough, and finally I took the plunge and got a Husqvarna 580 BTS, and it is AMAZING. Worth every penny.

Yes! Though it would be fun to watch some family members experience the smell of success for the first time while they shuffle in for Thanksgiving dinner!

Let us know what you will use! Thanks

Thank you!

What part of the country? Hopefully no matter where we live, we have more than a few weeks left of the season! Of course, some years I've mowed into December, other years we got a foot of snow on Halloween!

@@TurfandStem Massachusetts!!

Ok, same here, so you know the pain! I think we have a good 4 or 5 weeks left at this point if the weather holds out. Gotta finish strong!

What part of the country are you in? Interesting, so if there's too much growth without a mow the grass bends over and smothers itself?

@@TurfandStem Five hours north of Seattle in south, west Canada. It rots when it falls over, it need to grow slightly to stay alive but it needs to be strong. As you are encouraging carbohydrate storage, this is sort of Keto for turf.

Yup, absolutely water after urea. Be careful with it, it's better to go a little too light, than a little too heavy with it. You may also consider "spoon feeding" it, which is splitting up one application over multiple applications. lawnphix.com/tips/what-is-spoon-feeding-a-lawn/

I do cool season, my lawn is turf type tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass.

I'm not experienced with warm season grasses unfortunately, but when it's the middle of January and -10 below here in New England, I'd love to get some first-hand experience with warm-season grasses like bermuda! I'd even settle for St. Augustine!

Try visiting lawn care nut for warm season advice. He is in Florida.

Thank you, that means a lot to me! I'm still learning about video, sound, story, etc. and I hope to learn some more over the winter while the grass takes a break.

I'm in the same situation, I have some moss outbreaks along a stone wall and between the house and woods where it's mostly shade. The best thing to do to completely get rid of the moss is to increase sunlight and increase drainage. Shade and moisture are the key ingredients for moss. In my situation, it's just not possible to cut down dozens of trees and to move a 150 foot rock wall. You're on the right path with lime, that can help reduce it. I prefer Scott's MossEx, but there are a lot of products out there, you may want to try a few different to see if any are more effective. Unfortunately, it may just be continuously managing the symptoms unless the root causes are corrected. Try a few different over the counter products, like BioAdvanced. If that doesn't work, give Justin at LawnProPesticides a call, he'll be able to recommend something closer to what professionals use.

@@TurfandStem thanks, I did buy a bag of MossX but have not applied it yet. I was planning to take out as of the moss as possible before. Applying. May need more as I am not sure if one bag is enough. I do have some left over liquid moss kill so I may hit it with that too.

What type of grass and part of the country are you located? Are we talking spots of crabgrass, or an entire lawn of crabgrass? It's sad, but most sellers stop caring for the lawn once the house is sold and it goes down hill very quickly. The best way to stop crabgrass is with a strong pre-emergent program in the spring. I'll do a video with more info over the winter, but you'll want to use a product (or combination of products) with prodiamine and/or dimension/dithiopyr.

All depends on the well itself. I have a drilled well down 400+ feet, but I still take precautions not to spray or apply any lawn products near it, including herbicides, pesticides and fungicides. I'm not too familiar with dug wells, but I'm guessing they're a bit shallower. I always recommend erring on the side of caution, especially when it comes to health and safety. I'm not an expert, but you may want to reach out to your local health department, university or county extension to get a better answer.

I always wondered about that. I have a lot of pine trees and thought that may change certain areas of my soil but never found any evidence.

Oh no! What happened? My neighbor has a koi pond and I get a lot of the frogs from over there, never had any of them die off.

@@TurfandStem Sorry nothing happened as we got our little friend months after we fertilised the new lawn. Im scared of doing it now incase he eats the fert. Pellets we have bought. Just what ive heard on Utube that it reduces population. Hay, but maybe they are wrong but we have to be careful, and of disease sprays.

Do you have warm season or cool season grass? Which state are you located in?

@@TurfandStem New York. JG says very little N since green up is happening any way and more potassium for all around plant health and winter survival

Howdy! I had really great success rotating propiconazole with azoxystrobin this year. I also switched from granular to liquid, and the results were much better and consistent. The most important thing is to switch classes. Propiconazole is a Class 3, while azoxystrobin is a Class 11. Using fungicides of the same class during each application lets the disease build up a tolerance and they become less effective. I also rotated in some Cleary's 3336 F which is a Class 1. Iowa State Extension has an awesome, and free, Fungicide Classification chart here: store.extension.iastate.edu/product/Fungicide-Classification

@@TurfandStem and where can I find those products? Amazon?

Amazon has some of them. Justin over at lawnpropesticides.com/ has the same, or usually better prices and since he's out of Hartford, Ct., it gets to us overnight.

Thanks! Going to try, as long as the weather cooperates!

75,000 sq/ft! Wow. It really depends on the specific brand and amount that you're trying to apply. You can see the difference between SiteOne's label www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?resourceId=20076 and Pro-Ap guardian-online.com/wp-content/uploads/migratedmedia/Pro_AP_Professional_Turf_Fertilizer_Label-impt-854.pdf. You will want to be careful using urea, a little goes a long way. You also may want to "spoon feed" it over a couple of applications: lawnphix.com/tips/what-is-spoon-feeding-a-lawn/ . This helps reduce the risk of any burning. With urea, it's better to apply a bit too little than a bit too much. And you'll also want to water it in.

Absolutely, gotta water in urea. I usually water in all fertilizers just out of habit!

Well, since I renovated a few years ago, my main lawn has been seeded with Jonathan Green tall fescues, midnight kentucky bluegrass, and JG Solar Green. I don't think there is a lot of rye in it. The strip of grass on the left abutting my neighbors is also renovated with 100% midnight kentucky bluegrass two years ago. Really love my mkb!

@@TurfandStem I'll concede that fall fertilizer does help speed spring green up a little bit but I stand by the above statement that the cultivars you grow make more of a difference to wake up time then anything else in the spring.

@@wally7856 As well as soil composition. Sandy soils will warm faster and drain away excess moisture.