Make sure you catch the video on the main channel: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pDdNZ-sPZ7k.html I compare DIY vs pre-assembled light strips like the Govee M1!
Hello sir, please help, i saw both of your videos, awesome vid! how long of a strip did you use for this? i'm connecting the WS2811 COB, but is a 5M (720led/m 20IC/m) it doesnt seem to work, it just blinks and i can't really control it, do you think it have to do with the qty of LED? i have seen WLED have a limit per Data port. any ideas? i dont want to give up to just use a SP630E
An important heads up: Those barrel connectors are only rated for 3A, and they will literally melt at currents over that. I don't know why they continue to include them with high current power supplies like that one, I've gone so far as to report those sellers to Amazon for selling dangerous products, but to no avail. Do yourself a big favor and ditch the barrel connector or set the current limiter in WLED to 3000mA (I think I saw in your screencap you had it at 2000mA, so you should be good).
Good to know about the barrel connector! Yes I have mine limited to 2000mA but I’ll probably just skip the barrel connectors next time. Thanks for the tip!
"Melt" is a bit hyperbolic---we might want to review the meaning of "literally". Anything rated at 3A will be "safe" to 6A...as there is always a minimum safety factor of 2 applied to commercial ratings ( UL, etc). That is not to say that I disagree with the general advice of replacing the barrel connectors, and minimizing the number of interconnects, in general. But, things aren't going to instantly start to melt when you apply 3.1 amps.
Thank you for this! I figured out why my setup wasn't working. After connecting the controller to the same ground as the strip, everything worked! super happy!
Worked great.. Was my first LED project so thanks for posting all the info... learned lots putting this together today. I ordered 3m strip and ESP8266. Of note, these LEDs are not individual control but rather segmented... in my case I got a 3m strip. 720LEDs/m. Each WS2811 IC Chip controls 36 LED (I presume 12 groups of three RGB because there appears to be 12 RGB per section). 20 IC/Meter therefore 60 ICs total... which is also written on package. In the WLED LED Preferences I select length of 60 which is the number if IC Chips. If you choose less it does not light up all the way to end of strip... choose more then it will attempt to light non-existent ones and effects will not operate correctly (notice this in chase effects). Power settings are not applicable since I am using own power supply not powered off ESP. Anyways, regarding the segment of 12 RGB groups of individual lights, (technically 36 LEDs) you will see the long segments light up...which doesn't look that bad since they are covered all in plastic strip, unlike other strips I have seen. I wonder if there is a model like this that has each RGB group addressable.
That's a big bloody power pack for those lights.. where are you going to hide that 😂. I like the idea. Maybe an all in one 3D printed case to house it all.
Thumbs up for using Wagos. One thing though, on the side there is marking showing how much wire you should strip. The wire should all the way in and you should avoid having wire insulation being cough by internal bus bar.
Or just buy a Athom LED controller on with WLED preinstalled and rated for up to 24v. Anyway, showing people the power of a standard ESP board os also a great thing to do. They are very useful.
One reaction I had was that usually, negative is black, positive is red, and actual grounding is green or green-yellow; that's the NEC wire color coding standard. Blue and yellow are also used for hot wires, as "travelers, blue and yellow wires allow operation of an appliance or lights from multiple locations" according to a page I saw. But of course as long as the wiring makes sense to you, that's enough. Whenever I wire DC which is not often I go red/black for consistency.
3:08 For the ESP32 you don't need 10 amps at 5V. 5 Volt 1 Ampere is more than enough. With 24V strips there are always 6 LEDs per logical pixel. Each LED only needs 10mA. With 12V strips, 3 LEDs are a logical pixel. Each LED needs 20mA. With 5V strips each LED can be controlled individually but each LED needs 60mA.
There's a company called Posi Products who make a connector called the Posi-Lock. It's essentially an inline twist-on connector that's super secure and it's inline so it doesn't cause the wires to branch off in all directions like these connectors do. I've used them quite a lot for motorcycle wiring and they've been rock solid, I even used them to wire in my headlights, that's how much I trust them to handle even vibration and the like. Might be an option if people want a nice, straight connector where wire goes in one end, and out the other. Optionally can be covered in shrink wrap to further secure them. And they also make a Posi-tap, which is a non-destructive way to tap into a cable. So if you felt the need to branch off a second pair of wires from existing wires, just connect two Posi-taps and boom, a clean tap that's easy to reverse by just removing the tap.
Thanx for these vids. I always been wanting to automate my cheap light strip round the TV, with the required remote it comes with. Now, I can do it with WLED. 😎
People online are saying those ESP8266 won't install WLED from the site, and i've been trying to get it done for an hour.. it's just stuck on "Preparing installation". Frustrating. Switched to the alternate method )esphome-flasher) and it worked perfectly!
Oh man oh man you have the answer to my prayers Thanks for the awesome simple direct video ! Question#1 would you connect a motion sensor to power the ESP or the LED strip? Question #2 do you sell the 3D print box for the ESP? 😅
the install and wiring i can get my head around fairly easil how does everyone then make all that wiring into a neat install.. and it's also a pain to get power to some areas, let alone needing 2 powerpoints to run a strip :-(
@reedsmarthome Since the LED strip is 24v and the ESP8266 emits 3.3v data signal how did you get this working properly without a "level shifter" as described as required on the WLED site? Is there something missing in my understading there? I've seen wiring diagrams where an ESP-WROOM-32 combined with a TXS0108E level shifter are used to successfully drive a WS2811 so I'm wondering how this is working for you.
BIG QUESTION: How can I add a logic level shifter in order to run a long line from the node to the first led strip? I see so many examples for 5v but nothing regarding 24v. Any input on how to wire that up properly?
I cant get the leds to work unless they are plugged into my computer via usb. Im using them for a portable sign to take to shows. Does it not write the patterns to the board? And if not how can I save them so everytime I turn it on it displays the same pattern? Thanks
I want to do a longer light strip. On the Amazon page they sell 16 and 32 foot strips. Would I be able to use the same power supply or would I need something more powerful?
Ive followed setup almost exactly like you have, but for some reason it seems wled is not controlling the strips correctly theyre just outputting random light junk. A bit of research mentions a level shifter requirement but i dont know what im doing.. any advice?
nice video but one thing. before powering up the lightstrip go in to config and set your led count and all other stuff. Then connect it to the led and power! I burnded led because I was doing it wrong!
"Unfortunately, it didn't work for me. The LED strip lights up in random colors, and I can't set any effects in WLED. Could it be due to the cable length between the ESP32 data pin and the LED strip? Would using a level shifter help with this issue? Do you happen to have a video demonstrating this?"
hello, can you tell me what settings you used in WLed for the Cob led strip? I bought one with 720 addressable LEDs per meter and I can't configure it. it is the led strip that was also left in the description of the clip. thank you
Reed or anyone- i want to put led strips on my roof corners, floor panels, wall corners. Is there a video that shows how to put all of the lights together?
So strange. I've done this before with the non FCOB lights and had no problem. I just tried the same setup and my LED began to smoke in the middle of the strip and one section of LEDS began turning red to intense magenta
Hey guys. I just setup my wled on a 8266. I was going to the menu and I had issue with the settings. Basically i have a 24v 4A power supply and the esp is being powered separately. When i go to the led preferences and set my Mha to 4000, my light starts flickering at full brightness, lower the amp to 3000 it its even worse. Do you have any idea why. Do i need more Amperage on that power supply? Btw i am using the btf lighting fcob ws2811 ic rgb. Thanks in advance for your help.
Thank you for the video! Question how to set up the whole Strip that show 720LED/m and we have 5M like yours on the video. I bought it from your link but how to set up the settings on LED preference like the length. i can not make it to work fine. Also if is too long is there away to sync 2 ESP8266 because my pwer supply is 2x200W 24V. thank you !
Would anyone here know if it would be possible to control this LED strip using Quinetic wireless light switches? I would love to be able to communicate with the ESP8266 directly using them.
Great video. I’ve been meaning to give this a go of some under furniture lighting at night. Your video cut tot he chase and has motivated me to buy all the buts and pieces…. Did you forget the barrel connectors to connect the raw wire to 24v plug? Or does one come with the LED?
hi i installed and bought the fcob ic rgb led strip with 24v but i can´t figure out how to controll the strip, i used the D2 pin and used the correct GPIO but when i send the command through ESP32 the strip just flickers or randomly change the colours. could you help me?
@@siddharthparmar5216 i found out how. tHE PROBLEM IS, the ESP 32 logic only outputs 3v in the data line, the 24v strip needs 5v to get it working you will need a level shifter so it can convert the 3v line to a 5v line. It should work after you do the correct connection, i manage to get it working, and oh boy its amazing!
Are there any boards like these controllers but that do Z-wave? I kinda like z-wave over wifi. Doesn't matter so much here I suppose when you use mains power, but for anything battery operated wifi sucks.
I don't believe so, for both Z-wave or Zigbee/Matter. It's heavily dominated by WiFi here. I took a look and found one microcontroller called the Z-uno that somewhat resembles an ESP8266 but with a Z-Wave radio, but it's $60 per, sold out everywhere, and likely doesn't support WLED. On the Zigbee/Matter side, there is the ESP32-C6, which is a 802.15.4 compatible chip from Espressif (the guys who make the ESP line of microcontrollers). While you can buy devkits for the C6, it's not advertised as having final software support and is intended for those who want to cut their teeth on it before general availability.
@@TheAppleFreak I did see another device from Expressif that seemed to have a Zigbee type radio, but without firmware a mere mortal can install and start using or similar support even if it exists I suppose it's not currently relevant? Esp32-h2 and there's a devkit that's Esp32-DevkitM-1 - but again, I'm highly ignorant about all these microcontrollers. Just think Wifi is kinda meh for home automation and would prefer to just keep the automation and my wifi separate things. So I can break the automation or the wifi separately. 😂
@@KimmoJaskari Yeah, the C6 and H2 are relatively new and not really finalized so firmwares like ESPHome or WLED just don't really exist for them right now. It'll happen in due time, I'm sure, but not yet. And yeah I agree, it'd be awesome to have everything not be on WiFi.
Two questions, the corner channel you have in your link shows that it’s too small for the width of the led strips. Also do they make strip connects for this type when you’re combining two strips together!
@@TheLimeLines it has some tolerance to 5v on *some* inputs, but it's designed and stated to run at 3.3V on its datasheet. The module has a regulator for power conversion. I'm just correcting a statement made in the video
@@TheLimeLines at the risk of the esp. The analog pins don't support them nir does straight 5v power and some others. There's a good video on it on RU-vid.
I don't mind the affiliate links, but the one for the "24V 5A power supply" goes to a 5V supply. Could result in a bit of grief if someone ordering stuff got that.
That makes sense but for what I’m doing it wouldn’t make a difference. Everything in this video would also work for the ESP32 but it would be a different data pin.
@@reedssmarthome Yeah, 8266 is the way to go unless you need sound-reactive WLED. Cheaper and works great. I do hope the WLED project doesn't phase out 8266 support in the future
I had issues with my first couple tries the other day. I thought it was a driver issue because the led onboard would blink when I plugged it in. Spent a couple hours scratching my head about it. Turns out my micro usb cable was faulty. Tried a different one and it was smooth sailing after that.
