Thank you so much for the help, I am master certified but have been running mostly residential calls for 21 years, our commercial guy is out & I am trying to make sense of this. Thanks a bunch. Have to install one tomorrow
@@marcoalvarez1276 hello ! what about the domestic furnace, it the furnace or A/C is in service and meanwhile the fire occurs and smoke detector senses the smoke in the duct, your suggested 24 volts wiring will stop the signal from TS to furnace, but the blower motor has to still run for 2~3 minutes and it can circulate the smoke for 2~3 minutes and this is not accepted by the HVAC inspector !!!, please suggest the wiring ( 115 Volts) to get the blower motor also same time 1 waiting your suggestion ..........! an HVAC tech.
i spent 2 hours trying to figure it out with the diagram provided couldn’t do it, watched this vid got it right away, thanks bro!! amazing explanation!!
I was working on a no cool for a RTU (orginally a PM) I couldent fiqure out the issue. Turns out that the smoke detector got water inside of it. I did not quite understand how the smoke detector was the issue, but Seeing your video really helped me to understand better thanks for sharing!
great video. as a newer technician I put my first smoke detector on today. Couldn't figure out for the life of me how to wire it up. instructions that came with it might as well been in chinese... with no actual diagram. thanks alot for the help!
Lol that's why I wanted to put this video out. When I installed my first smoke detector the same thing happened to me too. No easy to read schematic. Thanks for watching
Boss! Thank you so much. Your video so straight forward, simple and clear.... Despite of my being just a home owner, I could do it so easily. I wired and tested. It's shuts thermostate fully. No need to think of any blowers furnace or AC... I subscribe right now
Steve Bines no problem. All you have to do is cut you a small opening where you can fit your hand in and use small pieces of sheet metal on the inside and screw into it so it catches. Once you do that the smoke detector isn’t going anywhere! 👍🏽
thanks for the info. i got the return sensor in ok now i want to add and loop a supply sensor to the return power board i am using D4P120 Power board and a D41220 duct dector. should the sensor board has primary and secondary i connected the supply to the secopndary plugin but the supply also has 2 sensor posissions should i plug the wires in to the first plug in to tie the line as one or do i connect them to the secondary plug
thanks for the video I've been doung this for a few years now working on bigger commercial units. My question is where on the detector would you wire accessories like a key station reset or a strobe light. thanks for your help
awesome man your a life saver from Canada and they require it when 2 living spaces share one furnace it's on the drawings from the engineer and when opened package I mean to mount the unit is a piece of cake but wiring diagram was from outer space thanks again brother appreciate it.. does it still 120VAC I'm dealing with the SYSTEM SENSOR D4120
Hey man thanxz a lot for the video, because last time I did install one detector and I did burn off alots controls, Because the wiring diagram at the instruction are bad!! Got it man:) Got bless you!! Body!!
My friend explained it to me just like this. Would you be able to do a video including the float with the smoke. We use to do waterguard floats but now we’re starting to use the rectorseal safety switch
on a roof top there is typically a jumper on the board that you remove and wire the 2 normally closed contacts to. i just run a 4 wire line from RTU to the smoke detector. R and C to the 24v input and 2 other wires often green and white to the NC contacts from the removed jumper terminals on the board. save you a wire running to the stat that can often be very far away.
hey Marco Thanks again I'm going to be installing a smoke detector tonight just wondering if I need to hoop up 120 VAC or it will function with just the 24 VAC thanks again
Is there any optical where the smoke detector can keep 24 V off of the terminals on the panel? So as to not having twenty four volts coming off the r terminal
Hi, your video helped me a lot. Thank you. If I have multiple roof top units, do I wire them in series or one by one ? Like from one smoke detector to another ?
Best on RU-vid. However I got into with an Inspector on how useless they are for restaurant's/ Bars. He was on the oxygen feeding the fire shit. I ask him has he ever seen a restaurant or business not burn to the ground because this saved it? He just yelled it's code. So a week later a Rams Horn I was working at burned down to the ground because of a grease fire overnight. I asked him how the smoke detectors did.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
If you power the detector with r and c from the air handler(furnace) board and then break on the transformer from r to 7 through 18 and back to the 24v terminal on the board you are done (no jumper required) and will provide 100% shut off with no delay .
can you explain this better? 7 and 18 are normally open so smoke would close this circuit, sending power from r to the 24v terminal, would that not short something? I agree with your comment, the diagram on the video is simple but it does have a fairly long delay from sensing smoke and stopping the call for heat to actually shutting down the fan, in my area we have 1 minute from the time the inspector puts smoke in the tube until everything is shut down but if theres a simple way to shut everything down with no delay that would be better.
@@openyuheyeby8674 yeah i did, anything after the transformer wont kill the fan, its direct with 120 volt so when you kill the transformer it still finishes its cool down cycle. I cut the main 120 volt power supply in the furnace and ran 3 wire up to the smoke detector unit, marrette the line side of the power supply at the furnace to the black and white of the 3 wire, run the 3 wire up to the unit, go the the 120volt feed to power the unit, run a jumper from the black at the 120 feed to the common screw, put the red from the 3 wire on the normally closed (n/c) and then connect the furnace line side black to the red that returns from the smoke detector (marrette all whites), this kills the entire furnace including fan the second the smoke detector goes off. i had a real hard time figuring that out because the people that sell those smoke detectors dont know if those contacts are rated for 120 volt. I just experimented and its been running for about 5 months now with no issue. if i ever have an issue i will re post about it but this is the way i will be doing them from now on, from the second you put smoke into the detector everything is completely dead within 10 seconds or so and it works with a/c as well, killing the themostats call for heat may not work for a/c or if there using the fan to circulate air all you need is about 6 feet of armored 3 wire(bx)
Its been almost 2 years since i wired it up with 120 volt and its still working, I would say they are rated for 120 volt. I have wired in quite a few through the transformer like most people do because most of our inspectors just look to see if the unit is installed, they dont actually test it with smoke. I will only be wiring them up with 120 now and cutting the power to the entire furnace. 24 volt is too slow, up to 2 minutes sometimes to complete the cool down cycle and turn off. @@kaktusnrg
You may have a short some where because the smoke detector is breaking R to the stat so even if the fan on switch was on or the tstat was calling, it wouldn't have any 24 volts to do anything with. Does anything shut down when the smoke detector trips??
system sensor manual is like reading chinese, they need to make basic instructions like you just provided. I know theres the know it alls that just know everything and dont even need a manual but for fuck sakes i spend $200 to buy this you better make it simple install like this video shows. GREAT JOB
HALF PINT CUSTOMS What do you mean you did it “the way it’s said in book”? It’s the same for split or package unit. You just need to send a constant 24 r and com to power the smoke detector and break the circuit at the normally closed dry contact. If your popping the fuse, you have a shorted wire somewhere or miswired it
Little confused on the ground ... I don't remember a ground on detector but on carrier rtu their new board has a spot for smoke detector 24v ... Before I just used to break the xfmr ... Everything else same way
Yeah that's another common way to do it as well. I be done it before, I just hate snipping the factory wire coming from the xfmr, but that's the most common way. Thanks for watching
That won't pass inspection in my area because the fan must stop immediately. Brake the power with 6 & 16 between the board and the transformer instead of R. 'SYSTEM SENSOR' DUCT DETECTOR: 1 & 12 are the interlock wires that go from detector to detector. If using interlock you must power all duct detectors from the same transformer. All duct detectors must be the same brand. An isolation relay is required if you have an X-13 style fan motor because you must break 120v to the fan. - 9 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (WHITE) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer - 10 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (RED) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer - 1 - detector 1 ~ DETECTOR (YELLOW) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors - 12 - detector 12 ~ DETECTOR (GREEN) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors - 6 - 24 v ~ transformer hot (ORANGE) local transformer - 16 - 24 v ~ board hot (BLUE)
This may be late , Normally you already have a 5 wire or 8 wire run from your RTU/AHU(split sytem) to your smoke detector , with that being said you can always eliminate the jumper from 9 to 6 and just power the 6 terminal with another wire coming from your RTU/AHU.
