Battery Ignition using external coil. How to properly connect this type of coil to your engine. Sometimes substituted for a failed Magneto coil ignition system. Go Here for More In Depth Info! gardentractorpu...
45von is correct. The secondary coil, inside the coil on battery ignition systems, is what actually makes the spark. It can only do so when the points are open. When the points are closed, both the primary coil inside the coil and the condenser (which is really a battery) receive current. When the points open, the rapid loss of this charge to the primary coil windings induces a large voltage in the secondary coil winding, That is the source of the spark that ignites fuel. The condenser sends its charge along to the primary windings as well. Happily, the condenser also prevents the arc that would otherwise happen when the points close again so they don't burn-up rapidly.
The coil creates spark when the points OPEN, not close. When the circuit is closed, the coil creates a strong magnetic field. When the points open, the field collapses, with electrons going into the secondary winding and discharging across the spark plug gap.
You're correct on both counts. It would replace a bad magneto if a suitable stock replacement isn't available and is used on engines like the Kohler shown that don't have a magneto ignition system. Hope all is well my Friend! Cheers!
Just what I needed because I haven't worked on an old engine like this one in a long time. I have a rectangular-shaped box between the postive post on the coil and my battery. What is it?
I have an lj80 and the condenser is on the distributor, is the ignition the same as the points box? do i connect the negative to the condenser even though it is on the distributor? and is the ignition on a relay which connects the positive to the coil? so the main coil wire goes to the distributor is that the only wire that goes across because the spark plugs are grounded? i hope you understand and can help thanks? i don't realy know what i'm doing
Hello there,,, I saw your video and was helpful, I have a gravely that has an ignition coil that connect to fly wheel.. there is one wire that goes to sparking plug and another male connector. is any way you can tell me where the connector goes... How should I wire that so I can stop the machine running.... thanks in advance
+B grizz Thanks for the tip Grizz. My videos are automatically grouped by content with other like videos in playlists through a program, but I can create separate playlists that are only of my videos. The only thing standing in my way of doing that right now is it's my busy season, but I will see about helping out with some playlists when time allows. Thanks again! Zip~ Glad the video helped!
So the Positive side of the coil goes directly to the battery or to the ignition post on the key switch?.... I'm working on an old Ford/Jacobson with a K341 and the wiring harness is a mess and the original ignition switch was faulty when I purchased the tractor. I had to running last year for the summer mower season by jumping the solenoid but this year I wanted to install an ignition switch and build a new wiring harness. The original ignition switch had 5 terminals and the new one has 4 terminals/posts. Start, ignition battery and accessories. I was thinking the positive side of the coil should go to the Ignition post on the switch?....Am I wrong?.
ok hears a question i have just acquired a quod ., scooter engine . & it got a feu problems with the waring infant it cut to bit's & i think it time to rethink the system & revert to fitng points . here's a quick thought given it as a place where the trigger coil fits as a pace of rased steel would this lift the points sufficient to open the points & fier the coil ? it 0ne mill thik prap's tow. i supo's a spot of weld may lift the pins more . but i would prefer not to wel on the fly wheel. the stream reman as the ratified garger for the battery . Praps you could answer this question .
I bought a 74 Dodge with a 318 with a "crank but no spark" scenario. I have been replacing everything in the ignition system, and still have no spark. Today I realized that the last owner had run the external capacitor/condensor (whats the difference?) from the Coil's "+" terminal and then to a ground bolt. I removed the external capacitor/condensor and installed a new coil, and thought that would solve the problem. But still no spark. Would the mistake of having the capacitor run to the Coil "+" terminal have been the reason for no spark?
if the condensor is bad can it be replaced by any old garden tractor condensor or does it need to be specific to that model engine?thanks for your time.
Hey zippo , do you have a video on how to bench test an external coil. I have a Kohler K341 with no spark & is driving me nuts. I believe I’ve checked everything except the coil itself
Thanks Zip ; With this video I was able wire my 16 HP Briggs and get it running . This is just one of your VERY helpful videos that I will rely on and enjoy . Hey, I am even looking at the grip 6 belts. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Don't forget to use my 20% discount code!!!! It's ZIPPO20. So far, 52 people have taken advantage of the discount. Be #53!! They're Awesome buckles and belts for sure. And of course, I'm very glad this video helped you get your problematic Briggs back up and running. Cheers from the Zippo Nation! Zip~
I have a panzer with a Kohler motor. It ran all summer, and two days ago no go. If I hold the spark plug wire, not even a tickle. I put new points, 18 gap, new coil and condenser, no go, I'm stuck HELP. I tested the coil and it shocked the crap out of me so I guess that is good.
Zippo, I have a simplicity 3414 with a B&S engine, the magneto is bad , I'm unable to find a replacement, I'm Ethier going to have to go electronic ignition or Go to the battery coil ignition like a Kohler, if I go battery coil ignition how would my ignition switch work, because right now that wire is a ground to kill the engine, and it would have to be a hot that would go dead to kill the engine then. Or Would I just be better off going electronic and then I would not have to rewire the hole tractor?
Zippo if if my coil isn't connected right with the battery with grounded like you said and what would that cause popping in the engine like if I could hear like a popping sound coming out of the exhaust down in the bottom of the engine and it's a 1950 Ford car
The intermittent popping you speak of is usually points or ignition related at the distributor. It can be a dirty spark plug, bad plug wire that is arcing somewhere or the condenser could be going bad which would cause the points to visibly spark and cause the popping you describe. If your engine is still using the original points operated distributor then those are the things to check. If you've got an aftermarket electronic spark ignition then with the engine running, listen closely for a sharp click under the hood. This would be the faulty plug wire or other component arcing to ground intermittently. The easiest way to locate these types of faults is to start the engine and in as dark a place as you can find, just do a visual under the hood. You're looking for a strobing blue or yellow flash. When you find that, that is your problem. If nothing is seen or heard, typically doing a full tuneup will help or rid you of the ignition misfire. Zip~
Thx brother! Tested my + resp -side of the coil…did not have 12 volts…car dont start.’..can i jumpwire direct from battery +?the coil is healthy, interchanged the coil with another car, and the coil is ok ! I just want the car started tomorrow as a quick fix to move the car.’..
I have a 66 SS-10 I got a new 12v battery in it and I noticed my existing ignition coil started leaking oil and was extremely hot. I disconnected the neg battery terminal and it cooled off and stopped leaking. Seems that it could possible be a 6v coil? The coil does look aged and it actually still works now even after leaking oil. Im expecting it will fail at some point. My plan is to purchase a new 12v coil from the auto store but I want to know why this existing one started melting down and spewing oil after 2 hours connected. Any input?
Question… I have ‘69 Lincoln mark III with A 460 engine. It has a capacitor/condenser on the outside of the coil just like the one in your video. There is also a condenser in the distributor with the points. Should there be 2?
No. The negative post on a coil isn't for negative or ground, the + is for the battery input and the - goes to the points. The grounding happens on the case of the unit when it's mounted. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thank you I figured it out I didn't have ohms on the coils I was using, the couple coils I used only had .8 ohms and 1.7ohms and I found that 2.8-3 ohms works the best for my application thank you
Both sides of the coil are actually "hot" when the coil fires. The "-" negative symbol is simply the wire going from the coil to the points. So, with the key switch on, the coil will be hot going to it and coming from the negative side when the points close. The instant the points release, the stored energy in the condenser it released and the spark plug fires. Zip~
hello my name is josh and i recently bought an internal resistor coil exactly like u have in the video but a little more interesting question is that i put a 5.0 (302) in my 95 ford ranger and i would like to know how to wire that coil on my single wire distributor with a push button start and a toggle switch. i have so for gotten everything wired up for starting wise put cant get spark to the spark plugs
While the vehicle is running I have around 13.45 volts going into the coil and around 6+ coming out of it into the distributor. Is that how it should be? If not , is my coil bad? Its new.
I replaced an internal coil with an external on a 1978 Simplicity garden tractor with a 16 horse Briggs. The coil has and internal resistor. Can you tell me what the ohm reading should be when I check the + to - poles? I am not showing any ohms at all. On a coil with an outside resistor you should get 1.4 t0 1.8. Is it the same with internal resister? Thanks
thanks so much zippo. I may use a starter generator later on in the future but for now i have just left it alone. cause im going to use it for a snowplow in the winter i will just bring the battery in the house until i have to use it. thank you zippo
Very good explanation! Can you pls explain the two wire type comdensor wiring? I would really appreciate.(it seems the two wire type has both a positive and earth wire...)
I have a wheel horse gt 14 with a kohler k 321 and it had electric ignition when I got it and no key ignition and I bought one for it but I don’t want to use lights or accessories so do I need the magneto? I have to check if the stator is there
Ok Zippo, I am on hour 10 trying to get a spark on my Simplicity 7016. I put on a magnatron only to find my flywheel is polarized different (i am not surprised as it felt out of time), when I couldn't get a spark with the magnatron i pulled the engine and put an old coil and points and condenser back on.... no spark. Wired up an external coil from NAPA. The only thing I did different from your video was to leave the condenser with the points and wired to the coil. My thought now is I must be grounding out some where. Any suggestions.
In the commentary from 0.55 to 1.15 min the description is wrong , In the external battery powered coil current is flowing through the coil when the points are Closed creating a magnetic field from the primary winding in the coil that surrounds the secondary , ( high tension ) winding , as the engine rotates to the correct position to fire , the points then Open.!! The current flowing in the primary ceases and the magnetic field collapses , that is where the condenser comes into play , it reduces the arc when the points break and ensures a faster collapse of the primary field The collapsing field induces a high voltage in the Secondary coil which is Conducted by the High Tension lead to the spark plug
Very true and great advice! Thanks for your input. I hope others read comments to learn of this addition if using an automotive coil. Again, thanks much!! Cheers!
hi how do you see if there is fire on the coil i swinged the motor but there no spark coming from the coil . I checked the points there is a spark . do i need a new coil or what can it be .
Just got a wheelhorse with a k series Kohler 12 hp and no spark. Condenser thing is on plus side with another wire going to switch. Update. I reversed wires and tractor fired right up.
This question is on a older post. Since I just found this information and applied it today. It worked great. I wired my positive to my ignition and my old Wheel Horse is up and running again. However I need information about the in line resistor you spoke to 574carter about. I am using a automobile coil... I think. Was in my shed and figure that's where it came from. I have the condenser installed as you stated and used a automobile condenser but do I need some kind of in line resistor? If so will you explain a bit further for me?
Just keep check for things to get hot, like the condenser and coil. If they get pretty warm to the touch, you'll need to chance the condenser and/or add a resistor. The exact science isn't known by me, but we have a gentleman in the comments named maverick351 that understands this part of the process better than I do. I would contact him if possible and if you find your coil is over heating.
Have a Clark forklift that I need to troubleshoot coil and distributer cap . Itt doesn't have points it has a little black box with two wires coming out of distributer where do they go on the coil. I have hot on positive and when I turn key I have hot on negative but nothing coming out of coil. How do I wire it correctly. Please help
What engine was this? I have a very similar, if not the exact same one. No ignition to spark. My question is how long will the battery last before needing to recharge??
It's a Kohler K series 12hp. If your engine doesn't have an internal or external generator, it's all dependent on the quality and type of battery. A deep cycle would be your best bet so that you can fully deplete the battery and recharge it many times. I can't even begin to offer an answer to your question of how long the engine will run though. Zip~
depends on the batter i once drove a lorry all the way to maffick & back on a faulty alternator it was only when the lights whear on it gave me a prolom.
Providing you are using a small engine Coil, the old Condenser will be fine. If using an Automotive Coil, you will need an in line resistor or you will burn up the automotive coils quickly. Hope this helps! Cheers!!
Hello does your coil have a power tower? Or is it hollow?i don't have a power tower on my coil and when I have my wire connected to the coil it tends to burn the top of the coil and the boot.am I installing it wrong?should I get a power tower?
i have a 1974 dodge charger with a 360. im wondering about the 2 wires coming of the distributer one neg and 1 positive, i know one goes to the coil and im assuming the other would be the ground, any info you can supply will be appreciated.
Hi, I have the motor out of a 71 dodge van and I am trying to make it run. It is all in good shape now but my coil has one wire coming out going to the bottom of my distributor and the other wire is not connected. Do i connect that side directly to a positive battery terminal or no??
This would replace the magneto I assume, but is there an advantage to it or is it in case your magneto is shot and you can't replace it? Or perhaps for an engine that is built without a magneto.
Durn, i was here looking for answer to same Question.. It appears if coil has 4 ohms Resistance no added external-resistor required..which is NOT working for me as Coils keep burning out.. I do know if external resister is used, need a 4 wire ignition switch, so as ext-resistor is NOT in circuit when starting, but Must be in-circuit when engine is running. My big-problem is what are the actual resistor ( and coil-resistance ) Values specifically ? A 4 ohm coil burnt-out after just a few hours, i have another Coil that measures 1.5 ohms, and seems like it would be a waste of time just using that as-is....
Old video but I hope I get some help. I own a 1988 Ford ranger 5 speed but it has a 1970 Toyota Corolla motor 1.4l v4. My grandpa had the ignition completely gutted so I have that wire running from the battery to the positive, my negative is going to the points, ground and condenser. When I go to tape the wire inside the cap to turn on the coil they're both hot and begins to melt my wires. The wires I have in the trucks are coming from the alternator and a double grounded switch that comes from the negative point of the coil. I've tried everything but I keep overthinking which cause me to go braindead. Please help.
You don't hook any negative power at all to the ignition system. It uses the engine's ground for that. Remove the negative lead you stated that you installed and see what happens. Zip~
Yo zippo I have this mess going on can you explain to me where these wires go on the coil and then from there I need to figure out where some of the wires go into the solenoid
I have a maruti 4piston and it has a misfire..I check the spark at the plugs it look orange in colour and the coil heating up now..what can be the problem
Excellent video. I have a NOVA electronic ignition in lieu of points and condenser on my AC B-110. I would like to add a coil as you have shown because I have a weak spark and engine won't fire. Will this external coil still work with the NOVA module ?
No it will not. You will have to return to a points fired ignition in order to achieve using a battery ignition. If you have a weak spark, change your spark plug to a hotter burning plug. I doubt it's the coil causing the issue. It's possible the flywheel and coil need cleaned up a little and re-gapped. Cheers! Zip~
I replaced NOVA with points and condenser and got back the spark, ;). I guess NOVA's do wear out. I'll remember about your engine pulling video. thanks.
Hi Steven. Kohlers equipped with an alternator/stator must also have a regulator/rectifier in order to be able to run without a battery. Don't connect the alternator/stator directly to the coil. Another option is, if you have room, add a pulley flywheel cover and a starter generator with a regulator like is shown on my Kohler. I hope this helps!
Question I have a kohler k181 it runs for not even a min and stops can not Rev it up nothing is the condenser to be grounded to the motor is that why motor will not run
Hi. Just wondering what is the make of the tractor in the background with the white bonnet, under the green cab, working on something very similar to it at the moment for a friend and he had no idea what make or model it is. Thanks
Zippo - Thanks for the explanation, but I do have a question. When I check for continuity across the +& - terminals of my Kohler T17T 2-cylinder engines coil, I get a beep from my meter. Should there be continuity between the two posts of an external coil (like the one you show here) when there is no power to the coil? I am changing my ignition switch and learning about the paths of current between my battery, through the soleniod to the starter, and how it's activated by the 12v coming back to the solenoid from the key switch, etc. In tracing paths of current, i was determining which post my switch goes to (+, of course) but surprised to find continuity between these two posts on the coil. The battery is disconnected, so there is no power to the system. The switch is not yet connected, so it's pretty much static conditions - no power, but yet, continuity. Is that the way it should be? Thanks, Alan (with 3 old Cubs)
Zippo - I read through your comments - and replies and stumbled upon this gem of a link: nationalmaglab.org/education/magnet-academy/watch-play/interactive/ignition-coil This shows me the internal parts of the coil and seem to have answered my question with a clear illustration of what's inside of the coil and what it does. The + & - terminals are indeed in contact when no current is present. It's only when 12v is applied to the + terminal that current flows through the coils to create a field and induce the spark to the plug. Otherwise, the fact that there is continuity without power seems to be ok. Am I correct? Thanks again, Alan (struggling with the complexities of wiring on my old Cub 782 with a Kohler T17 Twin engine. )
There is continuity present, yes. You need to do some research and determine what the correct Ohm parameters should be for your coil. Continuity is just part of the picture in other words. Good luck with the job at hand Alan. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga -Thanks. I wondered about that. It seems that a coil is a coil, but I guess the resistance value can be different. I will look into that. Meanwhile, another coil problem. Since I have not gotten my 782 working yet - and the clutch throwout bearing is still kaput on the 1200, I picked up a "quick fix" - 109 from a friend for $300. It is small and weak compared to my others (10 hp, 33" deck), but it runs... and cuts.. HOWEVER... after the first 2-3 hours of cutting in the heat, it quit. Just died in the field. I fried the coil. Fortunately, I had the 1200 coil to replace it with. I was back in business... for a while.... next evening when i came out to cut during the cooler part of the day, i turned the key and nothing. Totally dead. But, since I've had my head so deep into Cub wiring for the past few weeks, I quickly traced the problem to the power line going throw the ammeter and to the switch. The crusty old wire was broken. I cleaned it up, re-joined and taped the wires and went to work - in only about five minutes! Boy, was I relieved! ;) Thanks to you and to all the guys who post troubleshooting information on the web. Guys like me could not learn what we need to learn in such an easy and efficient way.
I put this motor on craftsman with the 3 speed high low rear end and it's side shaft rear end built pully guids and motore mounts to bolt my 12 kohler onto it and make it a belt driven side shaft mower but I don't know how to wire it up to make it run I have my negative from cool to points but I also have a wire coming of the part that I changed on the motor to make it charge but I don't know wear it goes my egniton,my silinoed,my battery I honestly don't know and do I still run the positive from my coil to my positive on the battery or does it go some whear else now
Omg I just realised my car is positive ground that's why it didnt work would it be the positive hooked to the ground or negative from battery wire also comes from generator that's grounded with the positive would that go to the positive or negative on coil
Hey Zippo, my coil on my old MTD 990 went bad so I was just going to put a battery ignition on it. I did this successfully once before with my Simplicity 7116. Same engine as the 7116, Briggs 16 hp. I can't get a good spark from it. The spark is yellow and weak. Any ideas my friend?
It's a finite setting to your points to correct the issue. I have videos on the subject on how to get a good hot blue spark with fine tuning the points gap. Factory setting is .020, but as these engines age, that setting often wanders off to the narrower side of the spectrum. Here is a link that should help: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iJArptA6Vco.html Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Hey Zip, I figured it out. I lazily used the light circuit to power the coil, checked it and it was only 11.7 volts. Once I put 12 volts to it I got a nice blue spark. 7116 update. My landlord's handyman blew up the V twin 18 hp vanguard I put in it. Gotta check the oil once in a while. I'm thinking of one of those Chinese 10 hp diesels for it, but the jury is still out on that. Hope all is well my friend.
kidzoog This reverses the flow and can certainly short out the coil, it's internal resistor (if equipped) and/or the condenser, yes. I have accidentally hooked up coils backwards, but was quick to realize my mistake and got lucky with no damage. But I would guess that continued cranking to the engine could result in permanent damage to the components. Hope this helps. Zip~
Great Video, You have the best Video to explain the right way to connect the Coil to the points and condenser. One thing in your statement you first stated Capacitor for the Condenser then changed the wording to Condenser. You are Right the first time most people doesn't know the Condenser is a Small Capacitor. It build a electrical Charge and make the spark on the points hotter. Great Video Plus AAAAA++++++.
Thanks much for the props Waymon! I tend to use the words most are familiar with and yep...it's a small capacitor that the world market dubbed the "Condenser". The same holds true for motor oil. They CALL it Detergent Oil, but there is no actual Detergent in it. It has a variety of chemicals designed to hold the contaminants in suspension so they'll pass through a filtering media like oil filter or cartridge. When talking small engines without an oil filter, you don't want to use Detergent oils because the contaminants are not being captured by a filter and are instead, being carried throughout the crank case where they can do harm to bearings, bushings, journals etc. Cheers! Zip~
What would cause my 1990 dodge d250 with the 318 to lose spark right after I fire it up it will idle for a few seconds than shut off and I'll have fuel but no spark
Check for a proper ground to the coil and ignition switch. Sometimes terminals get corroded and need cleaned. So go over all of the ignition system wires one at a time and clean them then add a dab of dielectric grease to help prevent future failures. With the key switch, there is a pigtail (plug) at the base of the steering column that the key switch wiring goes through. Disconnect and reconnect the plugs to help clean them, but don't use dielectric grease on these because it can breach connections and cause more problems than it solves. Good Luck! Zip~
hi I am working on a cub cadet 682. I had it running. parked it and now I have no spark while craving it over but as soon as I turn key off it has some spark. any ideas
I have a farmall Super A with a BAD Coil in the Mag, However, it is a POSITIVE GROUND 6 Volt system. To Bypass the Coil in mag and hook up a External Coil, Do I just Switch the wires you speak of , since it is a Positive ground sytem? Negative Tp Positive, Positive to Negative??
+MrDanoconnor I'm not 100% sure on that MrDan. I would find a support group on the internet to find the answers you are looking for to be sure you've got things done correctly. Sorry I couldn't be of more help! Zip~
No problem. I'm just sorry I couldn't definitively answer your question. But...when I am not sure, I'll never offer iffy advice. I hope you find the answers you need! Cheers!! Zip~
Hello, Thank you for the video! I have a 4.5cm21-RV generator. I has a nice old Kohler engine on it. The unit has been in storage for years. No gas in it, in fact no tank as I believe the RV fuel tank was used. This unit has a start/stop switch. For the moment I by passed that to get the engine to turn over. I then disconnected the switch and checked for spark. There is none. I set up a temporary fuel bottle to gravity feed the unit for the moment. Question: no spark from coil so it this points? condensor? both? I know it could be the coil however I would like to rule out the others first. I am going to have a problem getting parts because the unit is not marked with model, and the plate has been painted over obscuring the serial number....grrrrr. Thoughts? Thanks alot, David.
Search the engine block for a casting number, like a K301, K321 etc. Once you find it, that will help you to determine the right engine parts for your engine. Zip~
My 1963 chevy Impala coil positive is connected to the starter and the second wire to the fuse box. And negative side of the coil is connected to the distributor points. I wonder if this correct because i am not having any spark and/or what can be the problem to fix this?
Your best bet is to go to the original Wiring Diagram and let that be your guide for proper wiring Ernesto. With so many battery ignition types out there, the manufacturers of each have slight differences in approaching the wiring. Best of luck and sorry I can't give you specifics. But they should be easy enough to search. Stay Safe! Zip~
Hi Zippo, thanks again for all the helpful videos. I installed a new electronic ignition module to replace the points on my old briggs model 19, now it runs but acts like the coil is bad, it’ll run ok until you turn on the mower deck pto or put a heavy load on the engine and it starts to die out until the pto is turned off and the throttle brought down to idle. Then it’ll sit there and idle fine, I’ll go to mow again and it dies out again. Does this sound like I got a bad module out of the box, or perhaps the coil is going bad again.
Heya Hotrod! Well, the Model 19's have a horse shoe shaped coil mounted under the flywheel and the ignition module doesn't play well with that type of ignition system. I would attempt to resurface the points contacts, replace the condenser and see if things return to normal. If so...there's your answer. Please keep me posted on your progress! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thank you for your reply, I have a set of nos points for that engine somewhere, I'll install those and see if that cures it. I didn't know that style of coil isn't compatible with electronic.
@@ZippoVarga Ok, well I resurfaced the points and installed a new condenser, gapped the points at .020" like my book says. Now it runs good under load but stutters now and again with light loads, just driving or pulling a light trailer for instance. Maybe I need to experiment with the points gap to dial it in, definitely better though.
Yes...with the engine running, and an in line spark tester in line, you want to dial in the points for the hottest blue spark. You can also step up the spark plug to a hotter firing one to improve the reliability. Good Luck with it! Zip~
hello there , idd like to say thankyou for the video , i not used to these old systems and i have a vintage 1950`s - mid 1960`s 30 ft boom Forklift to get running and get home , and it has lost its spark , i had changed coil thinking it was that , but the guy i got it from had messed with it and he too could got get spark, it turns out booth of us has it Wired wrong , i will go back to it and try to wire it right following what u said on this post , The way it is wired right now ( wrong ) the points on the + and the other - side is grounded , so this could be why. Will wire a red wire on the + side directly to the battery , and on the negative side will stick that on the points and condenser side. and try that.
I have been burning coils out on my 351W. I figured my resistance wire shorted out and caused the continuous 13.5 volt reading at positive side of terminal. I installed a ballast resistor and the coils lasted longer but continue to burn out. I have not adjusted the points after installing a new one. Could this cause the coil to burn out?
I can only guess that there is something else at play here, causing the coils to burn out. If you can, I would find an original wiring schematic for your Windsor and duplicate the wiring. If the issue continues after that, then something not intended to be in the wiring mix is causing the issue. It's hard to tell without being there, but if you isolate the ignition circuit to be only the ignition circuit from the key switch to the coil, then I would think the issue would be resolved. Simply put, anything sharing the circuit, even a radio wired to the ignition circuit, can effect the coil. Also, use spark plugs with resistors if you don't have them and make sure all your plug wires are healthy and not touching anything they shouldn't be. Cheers! And good luck. Zip~
Think of it like a miniature battery storage device. Which, is essentially what it is. Condenser/Capacitor. When the points close, this discharges the Condenser, concentrating the charge or spark. And not a dumb question at all Sir Santos! Cheers! Zip~
No, it doesn't have to ground to the engine, but the Condenser will need grounded. The coil is positive battery only. The band is just to secure it with any means necessary. Zip~
I have 12 volts on positive side. I only have 6 volts on negative side Going to my points and six votes going to my spark plug. I do not have any spark going to my spark plug. Can you help me please.
Hi Zippo, I am working on a K301 that has been wires going here there and everywhere. I'm wondering if you could do a detailed video showing the correct wiring, including key ignition switch, regulator/rectifier, etc. If possible, I would be grateful!
Nathan Hilbig I'm the wrong person for that video I'm afraid. I'm a Briggs guy. The Kohler in this video is the only one I have kept and that's only because it was a gift. Had it come in as a trade or the like, it would have been gone shortly there after. There are guys on here that specialize in Kohlers who probably already have videos posted on correctly wiring things up. I would have been happy to make the video for you if I had the later model Kohler with internal alternator, but as it stands, this engine has the Delco Remy External Starter/Generator which uses a Delco Regulator. Sorry I can't be of more help and best of luck with your project! Cheers! Zip~
The key switch on your particular machine is specific to your machine. I have no way of answering this, not knowing what application your key switch is installed on. Zip~
i'm curious. my 1975 Dodge had the condenser on the positive terminal. or at least I thought. i replaced the coil. an now my truck turns over. but won't start. is it perhaps cause the condenser is on the positive? an if so, could my new coil now be shot cause of me putting it to the positive?
