I highly disagree with you thinking you talk fast. It's perfect for someone like me with ADHD that gets impatient while listening to someone beat around the bush. If they have too slow of a talking pace it may as well be a different language because I can barely latch on to a single word. I have to either skip around to get to the bits I need or I'll just find it somewhere else, even if it's something I absolutely need to know. I just can't focus when they fill in space with small talk or go along at a snails pace and end up retaining nothing. Your style is very direct, on pace for someone with mechanical experience, and keeps my brain happy with incoming info and on screen stimulus. I always walk away with a dozen new things for my brain to kick around and it helps tremendously with recall later on.
Im typing this message slowly just in case you are a slow reader too. Haha. I tried talking slower, its a struggle for me and I almost went to sleep while editing so I accepted myself for me. Cheers Kelvin.
I'm a complete noob when it comes to this but you make it sound so easy! Thanks again for all your knowledge. My question is how would I get the stand alone to work with the chassis harness? Headlights, Taillights, Dash. Etc. I'm sorry if you think it's a dumb question, but as I said earlier in the post I'm new to all of this and don't have much help other than your videos and others as to how to wire up a standalone for my swap. I'm starting a 1uz non vvti Z32 swap. From what I understand getting everything mounted is somewhat the easy part. But getting the electronics to work together is the hard part. Thanks again, and Happy Holidays!
Generally the headlights and most of the body is wired separately to the engine. Only wiring to dash for tacho, oil pressure , check light and water temp
At 18:30 you show a suppressor for the coils. Megasquirt manual does recommend, to use one. But I never found specs what value it should have. The engine runs nice, and the signals are clean, but I guess it is no mistake to supress this noise.
A suppressor is rarely a bad thing. Many engines run fine without them but they are good preventive items. Also helps with other things in the vehicle like radios etc. Cheers Kelvin
I really appreciate these videos. I'm getting ready to do a 96 1uz swap into my Tacoma. I do have a question about the non interference difference between gen 1 and gen 2. Is it mainly the piston heads and rods that make the gen 1 non interference?
Between the early and late non vvti engines the big change was rods and pistons. The rod was the same length however much lighter so that didnt effect the interferance. The piston was chsnged to increase compression with a different crown design so this is where the interference occurred. Heads are the same. Cheers Kelvin
Um, between early and late non vvti engines there is 5hp difference in power ratings. In real life when I was running cars on the dyno the gen 2 engine generally made more power but some poorly maintained engines didnt come up as nice so well maintained gen 1 engines made more than the gen 2. A set of cams would net far better gains. Cheers Kelvin.
calvin appreciate the response ,im from the uk and tonight ive come across a link ecu g4x atom x is this a good late or early version of ecu...or would you advise to buy better thanks inadvance...
Personally I prefer to use the MonsoonX as they have more inputs and outputs, Hence why you find far more of my videos featuring the monsoon compared to the atom. Cheers
@@CartuneNZ Calvin I've finally got me donor car ,my question to you is, do I need extract all of the wiring loom from front to back ? ,once the engine is out the remainder of the car has to go , no room for that to hang around . So I really need to take all I need ......thanks inadvance .... Paul
I buy from lots of places in bulk, many I buy from the manufacturer who supply toyota and lexus at 500-5000 at a time. Small runs I generally purchase via a contact I have in Japan. 95% of my connectors are a genuine item too.
@@CartuneNZ l appreciate your time l understand l tried myself l have spark from the coil but no injector pulse so I'm I'm lost don't know the next move . So l will buy another wireharness for the car and use it as a standalone for the motor. Is this the best solution for my problem.
This job was around $5K nzd. Customers existing ecu was used. There was also an idler unit supplied, new crank sensor , testing of his cam sensor , idle speed control unit supplied, COP supplied , all new connectors for everything. Made to connect into the existing conversion wiring which had issues. With most I do things a bit different as this was a repair job not one starting from scratch. Cheers Kelvin
