What a great series. I drive 1/10 scale but I really enjoyed watching you build this model. I’ve always wanted a Mini-Z but I might pick up a k989 to try first after seeing your videos.
Whats better out of box kyosho mini z or wl toys 989? Probably mini z right since it costs 150? Is kyosho better than the redcat racing one or how about mad drift by exceed rc? Thanks. Thats all for now. I already ordered a 969. Should I just get an a 252? That best out of box for 60? Will it actually drift?
@@familyman8644 it kinda depends what you want. On road, offroad, buggy, truck, etc. Theres so many types of driving too, theres even rock crawling. If you just want a standard 10th scale to get started with Traxxas makes a few different ones that are ok, and wltoys is finally jumping into 10th scale with their 104001 if you want a 4wd buggy. As for your question about mini z vs 989, the mini z is better by a LANDSLIDE. HUGELY better. Its like comparing a Swiss watch or rolex timepiece to a little 20 dollar walmart watch. Sure, they both tell time, but one is SO much more precise in its design and functionality, as well as beautiful to behold. The Mini z really reminds me of Swiss watches because of the insane attention to detail and next level accuracy and quality. They may be small, but theyre super high end. If you want a drift machine, and just a drift machine, I would say youre better asking around on Facebook or checking the marketplace to see if there's any of the big names that are maybe a few years older than what they'd want to race professionally so you could probably get a real deal if you look and wait for the right moment to buy. Hopefully we'll all run into eachother at the tracks jn this world
I’ve just bought one of these ( to race my 4 year old around the house ), ordered the carbon chassis and alloy upgrades . Now to work my way through your list and build a crazy little brushless weapon
Hopefully you got the working alloy parts otherwise you'll have to fix them like this. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cKw-T2f-Qms.html Good luck with the project!
Beaver's Hobby thank you buddy no doubt I will need to use that video when the time comes , it won’t be the first model I’ve had to modify and I’m sure it won’t be the last , your running a great channel , keep up the good work ✌🏼✌🏼✌🏼
No, it's way beyond what I thought it would end up. 🤣 Looking at the stuffs that are actually in the car aren't that expensive but overall... it's a money pit.
That’s already a 1/10 scale touring price. But in all honesty, not bad. I like it. Through 3D printing, I’m creating a rwd pan car based on a 1/32 scale mini 4wd. It’s using a drone brushless outrunner motor, but the problem with it is that the drone esc lack braking and reverse function. I’m thinking, I should try that esc.
Yes, the spending has gotten a bit out of control. If you are looking for small brushless ESC, take a look at Atomic or GL because they are the best sensorless ESC right now. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14103 Now there's also Surpass Hobby combo which, from what I've heard, it's really good. I'm still waiting for mine to arrive. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html
Kyosho radial or rubber works well on pretty much any surface. We usually use front higher number than the back. Degree number tells you the grip, lower degree has more grip. So basically we start with front 30, rear 20 to prevent the car from traction roll then adjust from there. Front = narrow, rear = wide. There are many manufactures too so feel free to choose. Here are the links. US/North America www.kenonhobby.com/Wheels-Tires_c_132.html EU www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_85_91 Asia/International banzaihobby.com/radio-control/kyosho-miniz/mini-z-racer-tires
Check it outside the car first if it works properly. Also check the wiring and soldering joints to see if there's any bridge between 2 wires. Also check if there's any break in the motor wires, that's the main problem for motor with wires coming out directly from the can like this one. If that works, check if the gear mesh is too tight on the car. If everything works smoothly but the motor still refuses to turn then it might be defective. Either that or the ESC is defective.
Hmm...when I've got the cnc up and running again maybe I'll try my hand at making a few upgrade parts for these things. They REALLY need better steering angle, so I'm thinking making a whole new steering setup that fits in with the stock diff case and such, or perhaps a full swap with diff casing as well may be in order... anything to get it to u-turn in just over twice its width like a real car can.
Yes, it is but it's not recommended. There is a receiver for the current version transmitter so you will need to buy that extra receiver. However, some ESC might require reverse throttle to work and that is not possible with the standard transmitter. You can still do that by taking the transmitter apart then swap the wires on the potentiometer, again this is not recommended. Besides, the cost of the new receiver varies from source to source and you can get a pretty OK transmitter, the DumboRC X6 with all the necessary features (reverse throttle, reverse steering, dual rates, etc) for something like $29.
Is it the Surpass Rocket 1410 motor + ESC kit? If so then yes, it works. However I don't recommend the ESC, get the motor and then DasMikro ESC separately. It's a better combination.
I bought two different Rocket Esc / brushless combos one red one black couldn't get either to work. Then I got that hobby wing 18a ESC and hooked it to the rocket brushless motors I have tried the red and black motor neither seem to be working correctly. They seem to sputter or not get up to speed. I was wondering if you have any ideas what I am doing wrong? I am matching the #s from the ESC to the #'s on the motors. Would you recommend anything? Or even a whole new combo set? eBay and Amazon have package deals but I am afraid I am going to end up with the same issue. I have the hobylink transmitter and receiver w gyro and love them. I am Just looking for a little more pep on the long straightaway then I am getting from the 130 motors. Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I am also trying to keep my battery plugs the same I ended up with lots of 7.4v 600mah I use them in several different models. Is the scorpion still what I should try or anything a little cheaper I can get the more bang for my buck. Appreciate you reading my comment and hopefully getting back to me. I have watched and used lots of your advice over the year and a half I have been messing around with the wltoys 1/28 platform thanks for all the great content I am watching you from southern California so don't normally use bangood but if you think they have what I need I will do it. Just want more on the top speed but don't want to lose the quick starts. Thanks again Mark
The spluttering you have could come from different things like joined terminals on the motor so make sure all 3 terminals don't touch each other. The Surpass motor is good but the ESC is pure garbage. The Hobbywing ESC is good so combining the Surpass motor with Hobbywing ESC is already a good choice. I suggest you check the connection on the motors and the ESC then calibrate the ESC and try again. You can also try reverse the throttle channel and re-calibrate the ESC. Hobbywing 18A can sometimes work only with specific direction of the throttle so it might help. Worst case is you'll have to replace the motor or the ESC. Check out kenonhobby.com. It's the biggest 1/28 shop in the US. There are many other shops as well like Helidirect, WolframRC and RCsupremacy. A Surpass motor with PN Racing V2 ESC also works really well. I'm not sure if any Amazon shop will sell the PN ESC. Don't mind the Scorpion I use in this video. Nowadays we have plenty of choices.
Nowadays the best budget motor is Surpass Rocket bit.ly/3ircxKC (actually the best up to $35, after this is the Furitek Greyhound 1410) The best budget to sub $40 is DasMikro V3. bit.ly/3mYOVkd You can also use Hobbywing EZrun 18A if you can find it for cheaper. Here's a video but it's all in one with all the current upgrades. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j9pO35iaqfo.html
Will mini-z bodies fit on this? I am looking to get one of these I don't own a RC this small is it easy to work on being that small? Not including the front hubs that you saying need to be modified what other suspension parts fit right on the car? Thank you in advance one more thing is this the four-wheel drive touring car that comes with the escort looking body
Yes, Mini-Z bodies will fit. Some might need modification to the chassis, some fits directly. Here's the video about this topic. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--gCJEXXWBEo.html Additional info, so far I've tried: - Corvette C7 ZR1: fits with custom front lip to lift the bonnet up a bit. - Audi R8, Lexus SC430, Aston Martin DBR9: These cars need to lower the shock. - Honda Civic Type R: direct fit, only need 0mm offset narrow wheels and shave the wheel arches off a little bit. So all FWD like Renault Megan, Mazda 2 and Subaru WRX (4 door) will fit with the same method. It's relatively easy to work on as there are not many parts and the car isn't complicated. This one is as good as it gets for budget touring car. If you want to upgrade it, aluminium shock tower fits directly without mod and it's a good improvement. I'm not entirely sure about aluminium shock, from what I've heard it doesn't make much difference. Greasing standard shock with gear diff grease does the same job. Another thing you can do to make it better is tuning the toe angle with adjustable rod. Use 3.5mm ball cap from small helicopter, it'll fit directly. I use TRex250 helicopter parts to do it (need to do another video on that).
Hello, I am going to upgrade to a brushless motor and ordered the wltoys extra pinion set. It looks like the pinions do not have a set screw and press on the motor. Have you had any problems with the pinion slipping or do they have a D shape like the spur gear? Also do you know what pitch the pinions are and would you recommend a mini z aluminum pinion set with set screw? Thanks and thank you for doing these videos.
I never got the pinion slipping problem with round shaft and round holes. Unfortunately the aluminium pinion set is too long for this car and won't work so you can't use it.
Hey beaver can you help me I have a K989 on the way I didn't realise the wheels on it have the slot shape in the centre, I have ordered Mini Z wheels for it but they have a circular center will these still fit the wl toys with the nuts that come with the wheels?
I'm sorry to say that you have ordered the Mini-Z RWD (rear wheel drive) wheels and they are the wrong ones. K989 needs Mini-Z AWD (all wheel drive) wheels. There's an adapter on thingiverse if you have a 3D printer. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537668 This will increase the offset significantly and will affect the handling. I highly recommend you get new wheels. This time make sure you order the AWD type.
@@BeaversHobby www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-MINI-Z-AWD-WHEELS-SET-WHITE-WIDE-OFFSET-0-2pcs-MDH100W-W0-/154358031480?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 will these fit mate without any mods
@@BeaversHobby will these fit mate without any mods www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-MINI-Z-AWD-WHEELS-SET-WHITE-WIDE-OFFSET-0-2pcs-MDH100W-W0-/154358031480?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
@@krisstoney6892 Yes, these will fit without mods. These are rear wheels (hence "wide") so you might want a different set as narrow at the front. Look for MDH100W-N15 for front wheels 1.5mm offset and they'll go together great with 0mm offset rear wide wheels.
very good & usefull brushless upgrade video..hope you can make a video for full metal gear setup for this brushless touring K989..getting tired off changing stock gear and spur 😩
do you prefer this brushless setup over your old hobbywing 1625 brushed setup? what about the xc-10 esc setup and surpass 6000kv motor? how does it compare to hobbywing? which of these setups would you recommend for small track carpet racing and some drifting with different tires?
For drifting out of all stuffs I've done I like the control from brushed setup with Hobbywing 1625 the most but it's the heaviest and you wouldn't want it in racing. The XC-10A with Surpass Hobby 6000KV is OK only for drifting, but with on-road racing tyres it cogs pretty badly. ESC is weak so if you're OK with a bit more weight the Hobbywing 18A that I have in this video will be better. To keep weight and footprint down you can de-solder Hobbywing 18A's original wires and directly connect evrything on the board. I think that's the best solution. Final answer is the setup you see in this video but maybe different motors to suite your need. For example Atomic 3500KV for drifting and Scorpion 6000KV for racing.
thanks for your advice. I will go with hobbywing 18A and try the different motors. if you dont mind, what servo would you recommend? I notice you have used different ones on your rcs, but which one do you think is best? and for rx/tx, do you think the radiolink setup is very good for race/drifting? or is it just for budget setup and you recommend something better?
@@kennetcastillo7740 The best one I've used is the Genning D561MG goo.gl/DsrqK5 It's metal gear, digital and very fast. It won't fit WLtoys bracket directly so you'll need a bit of modding. This is what I did ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zB3pUN9XiSw.html at 4:45 you'll see the modded servo bracket. As for the radio, under 180 USD there's nothing better than Radiolink RC4GS. If you can afford more there're many choices for example Sanwa MT-S, Futaba 4PLS, Futaba 4PV. I've just checked, RCmart got MT-S on discount for 155 www.rcmart.com/4channel-radio-rx482-fh4fh4-p-80288.html?cPath=36_47 That's very good deal.
@@kinetix3576 I wish I could share a picture with you. I'm currently waiting for bearings. But I have everything else - then some. I talk to Beaver from time to time on FB and he has helped me more times than I can count. I'm still pretty noobish. If your curious enough, find me on FB Randy Lee Hammond - picture with my son on my lap- and I'll take pictures for you.
Hello, I ordered the hobby wing 18a esc and the battery wires on the esc are 16awg wire and the 2s lips battery is 22awg wire. Did you solder 22 awg wires onto the hobby wing esc with a jst connector ? Thanks
I cut the ESC's original wires very short and solder JST connector with a bit of 22 AWG wires in to them. I tried to remove the old wires to make it smaller but without success.
200KPH should be in the world record territory. It'd be nice if I have a runway to do it though. This one tops out at 120KPH on dyno and it almost melted the gearbox. Haha.
You said that this brushless motor was to powerful for this little car. I am wanting slower smooth running car for a tight track. Can you suggest a different brushless motor that would work better for that with the stock gearing? Thx.
Atomic 3500KV with Atomic ESC is the best for drifting. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_322_433&products_id=14065 www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=14040 You can lower the budget by getting Surpass Rocket 3500KV but Atomic is smoother. www.aliexpress.com/item/33052771236.html
EZrun doesn't have cogging problems. It also depends on the setup but when it happens it's not severe. Low speed control compared to brushed is alright, again depending on the motor. The starting speed usually is a bit faster than a brushed system but the motor spools up faster because it's brushless. Nowadays EZrun isn't a good choice because there's DasMikro ESC which is essentially EZrun in a smaller and lighter package.
@@BeaversHobby Ok, thanks. So in your experience the DasMikro ESC is just as smooth as the EZRun ESC? And the only real differences between them is cost, size, and weight?
@@jeffreymeeks9080 Yes, I find DasMikro almost the same as EZrun. It even use Hobbywing programming card. In fact it's a bit better because DasMikro has less cogging too.
So ive been watching videos non stop and wondering which esc/motor combo i should go with for a drift car and then another for race. Seems like ive seen a thousand videos and cant decide. Ty for all your videos and help! Also using a nb4 if that helps :)
The best budget ESC right now is DasMikro. It's small, lightweight and doesn't stutter or cog. Here's the link. bit.ly/3h07teH It works with Hobbywing programming card but you don't really need that because you can program it with the button on the ESC. As for the motor, for drifting I recommend 3500KV and for touring I recommend 5500KV. Both of which are from Surpass Rocket. Here's the link. www.aliexpress.com/item/33027684055.html
@@BeaversHobby awesome! Guna order that:) One more thing because you know everything lol which brushed esc shld I go with for my other ride? Shaluoman DIY Mini Car Boat Using Bidirectional 30A Miniature Brushed ESC with Brake www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTW31MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kZe0FbK508HHX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Jarchii [Xmas Present] ESC, 20A ESC Brushed ESC Electronic Speed Controller with Brake www.amazon.com/dp/B08884J1XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_8Ze0FbHMMCK36?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@Quintanater The 30A one seems good. I also recommend this one. www.amazon.com/Accessories-LeadingStar-Brushed-Controller-Airplane/dp/B08B5T447N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dumbo+rc+esc&qid=1607515146&sr=8-2 It has low voltage alarm but you'll have to install a 5v buzzer like this. www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Electromagnetic-Continuously-Electronic-Components/dp/B07GJSP68S/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=5v+buzzer&qid=1607515241&sr=8-3
@@BeaversHobby is there anything you can’t program with the button that I would need that card? Also is there another option for programming card for this esc?
@@Quintanater You meant DasMikro, right? Everything can be done from the button. Granted it's a bit tricky to use but it can program everything from that one button alone.
I use the original battery that came with the car. This car uses 2S lipo so you can use anything in that type as long as it fits inside the car. If you want to upgrade the battery, take a look at GNB (Gaoneng battery) they make good stuff like 300 and 350mAh which will fit the original bracket in this car. Or 450mAh that is bigger than the bracket but you can take that out and tape the battery down to the chassis directly.
@@anshaldrin1346 Yes, 400mAh is OK for 9500KV. Still, 9500KV is excessively fast for this scale and it's uncontrollable most of the time so I suggest keeping it between 5500KV and 7500KV.
@@birdbangbobaruniYou don't need a new motor mount. What motor do you have? If you get the correct motor the mounting holes will line up (more or less) and the shaft will be 2 mm that fits the gear.
@@BeaversHobby 1S-2S 1220 KV10300 Brushless Motor (Set) Dual-way 10A ESC for Mini Car Q RC Car Holes are too small for the screws and width is too short for motor mount shaft is also smaller than stock shaft that comes a k989 stock brush motor
Yes, because 4x AA is only around 5V. While 2S lipo that this ESC works with is 8.4V fully charged and the cut off is around 6.5V (if I remember correctly, haven't use it for a while now).
Any chance you can send another reply of what parts you would use to set up for a fast top end version of this 1/28 wltoys. Lots of the links in your video are not available. I would be happy to order through bangood if you get a little kick back. You seem to know the good from the bad and I am just trying to set up one of my older cars for speed runs. I have one set up stock, one set up with better transmitter with gyro but stock motor and now just need a little help any with current links. Thanks again for your help and hopefully you get points to get more stuff.
Banggood has stopped selling most of the parts so all you can get there are metal driver train gears and diffs to make it survive the run. Metal gear for drive train bit.ly/3w7XChB Aluminium Diffs bit.ly/3Iq6rWp Long CVD bit.ly/3m1i4bd The you'll need a gear puller so you can change the motor www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002818277034.html Next is motor and ESC. Put the highest KV you can find in the car, in this case it's 9500KV. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003131268462.html I've used the Hobbywing 16BL30 ESC with good result before, it's also waterproof so this will increase the survivability. In this shop you can choose the plug you use on your battery. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001335666332.html This is a HV battery, the fully charged voltage is higher than a normal Lipo. bit.ly/3FE2pvF The plug is XT-30 so you can choose that when ordering the ESC and you don't have to solder that. This battery won't fit directly on the car but well, nothing in this build will so you'll have to figure out how to stick everything together. I put it on the top plate so that's one way to do it. I don't know if all of the shops I sent you can ship to your country but if not, try and look in different shops in Aliexpress and see which one gives you the best deal. Good luck and have fun.
@@BeaversHobby thanks again for all your help on shopping this stuff. I have everything I think i am going to need to make a speedy version of this budget RC. Something about the 1/28 size I really enjoy. I had been into RC racing in my youth back when the RC-10 and the RC-10T was what everyone was racing. Our local hobby shop that had a track and did races every week. Before brushless motors best you could do was a modified and that is nothing compared to what you can now get for supper cheep and already put together. One more shopping list Item if you could send me a link for a Brushed 130 motor and also a cheep ESP that will do the job but not break the bank. Thats for another build that i have going. Its working good right now just want to have a backup. Anything better than stock would also be ok too. Thanks again have a great day
2S Lipo between 300mAh to 450mAh got the best balance for the car. More than this and it can become too heavy. I'm not sure if Banggood can still shop battery to you but here's a good one. It's a bit long so you might have to take the battery tray out and stick it down with tape or velcro. bit.ly/3cInWC1 Otherwise you can check out hobbyking.com for Turnigy Nanotech batteries.
Again, thank you for your videos. These are so great and I am enjoying watching them all. I'm curious... why did you decide to go with a high kv motor and gear change rather than just a lower kv, like 4000-6000?
It was the only motor I could buy at that time. Nowadays I'd get the Surpass Rocket 5500Kv, in fact I did. I really need to do an update on this. A lot of things have changed. Now we bot DasMikro ESC which works better than this EZrun and much smaller + lighter (it's just a PCB).
@@BeaversHobby Excellent additional info. I want to use the DasMikro Flysky receiver since I use the FLysky GT3C transmitter. Hobbywing has a combo brushless motor, 18A ESC, programmer for about $50 with a 5200kv motor, so that's what I was looking at. I will check out both those other suggestions. Great stuff! Car coming for christmas, so plenty of time to plan.
@@dirtfpv Beware the Hobbywing combo, it's not the right size. This car (or any 1/28) uses 130 motor which is equivalent to 1625 or 1410 brushless motor (16mm diameter, 25mm length) but the Hobbywing combo is 2030 motor (20mm diameter, 30mm length) so you'll have to do a bit of modification like drilling the mount or even possibly move the servo out to make it work. 2030 is also heavier than 1625/1410 as well.
@@BeaversHobby Great info, thanks! I will look at other motors. What a great deal for the Surpass Rocket 5500kv motor/ESC combo at only $40 from Banggood.
hi bro, after the touring car upgrades, would you say it is more economical to just get the kyosho mini-z than to upgrade the k989 to get the same performance?
Mini-Z AWD touring car doesn't give you the best value for money. Except you convert FWD to AWD and only if you can live with the standard radio. Here's the conversion video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jliYUbgQhW0.html If you have experience building I highly recommend Atomic AMZ. Here's the review. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u7Jsw8IW-zY.html It's far better than WLtoys and any older Mini-Z up to MA020. It's also better in long run when you want to change only an electronic part like radio, ESC, motor. Mini-Z has proprietary electronics and you can't swap those parts easily. But if you want to have the best car to start, money no object then look for Mini-Z MA-030EVO (easiest car to drive right now), Atomic BZ3 (super agile and capable touring car) and GL Racing GLA V2.1 (the most versatile car with out of the box upgrade, think of it as a step up from AMZ).
@@josefpreyes Car with electronics = $118, wheels $3.2, tyres... depend on the track, let's say $10. You can get all these in miracle-mart and shipping will be around 15. So $146.2 for the car + wheels + tyres. You can get Mini-Z body from banzaihobby with shipping around $25. Or if you want Lexan body then the price can range between $20-40. What left are battery and charger. You'll be looking around $30 for a decent charger and a battery (even if you get other car, this will be the same). If you already have those, you can cut $30 off your spending. In total $201.2 for a brushless touring car with wheels of your choice and tyres according to your track completed with decent charger and battery.
@@BeaversHobby thanks very much! i already have a charger as i have 1/8 nitro buggy and 1/10 tamiya xv01, whats holding me back is that there are no 28th scale races here in my country (PH)
I'm considering the ezrun and scorpion motor combo you used for my k989, did you need to replace the battery or connector on the ESC? What about the bullet connectors on the esc? Thanks for the videos I especially liked the drive train video to clean the differentials.
Yes, you'll need to change the plugs too both the motor connector and battery connector. On the motor you'd want the bullet or banana 2mm. On the battery you'd want the JST RCY or red JST plug.
Hello and thanks again for your immense passion and for the time you spend! I wanted to ask you why my engine gets hot after a few minutes of driving ... I state that I have not yet cleaned the plastics and not even added grease to the differentials as you indicated in the first video. Is this the only reason?
The motor is normally hot but not to the point that it shuts down by itself. Fixing the car and adjust gear mesh will help so it won't shut off by the heat but it'll still be hot.
@@CiroZeno I haven't done the upgrade yet because the standard battery is still working well so I don't feel that it's necessary. But if you want to upgrade any 2S lipo will work as long as it fits on the car. A lot of people opt to use Gaoneng or GNB because it can deliver more punch. 300mAh will fit in the same bracket ant 450mAh will need some more room so you'll have to remove the tray and stick it down with a tape.
@@BeaversHobby today I have clean the plastics, applyed Grease to differentials, and smoth the suspensions...It works great!!! Yes I ready about those battery, I'll try...see you on channel and thanks again!
Whats the best wl toys for driving experience out of box 252 or 969? Also can you tell me what is the best rtr drift car out of box for around 300 or less? Thanks
K969 is better both out of the box and modified. As for the best for ~$300 then in case you don't have any experience at all with RC, Mini-Z AWD will be the one to get. You don't have to do anything, just open the box, insert the batteries and drive or drift.
@@BeaversHobby do you think the atomic version 2 is better than the kyosho mini z? Thanks alot. I just prefer 2wd drifter which is probably more skill. Which brand is easier to work on about the same as they look similar? I have 20 years experience with rc cars. I have a 100+mph 2wd speed modded stampede with about 700$ into the truck. Im no rookie. Have many tools. Just new to the small cars as they are same as 10th scale pretty much
@@familyman8644 Didn't know you are already in the hobby so this will be much easier. Get an Atomic, no matter what it is, it will be better than Mini-Z. Mini-Z is good for a beginner. Coming from car building you'll get very frustrated because of proprietary electronics and you can't even use your own transmitter. DRZ V2 is their latest offering for RWD drifting. I'm absolutely sure you'll like it. It's still in Mini-Z ecosystem so it shares the wheels, tyres and body which you can get pretty easily from a Kyosho dealer or buy directly from Japan. However, it's like what I mentioned earlier. You can't get everything from just 1 shop. I forgot to mention Atomic or any kit car will be much easier to work on than Mini-Z both mechanically and electronically. It'd be even better if your radio has small receiver available (Futaba, Sanwa and Flysky Noble have it with the plug ready for micro car) otherwise it'll be difficult to fit under the body. Of course you can always mod a receiver to make it smaller.
@@BeaversHobby I was gonna try the radio atomic offers for 40 bucks. Why not try their battery with body with body mounts as well. I was just gonna use xt60 plugs to work with my charger since they sell that xt60 battery balancing wire adapter. I only have traxxas tqi radio. I don't think that reciever will fit. Ill use the electronics atomic offers. I see they have some rtr kits also but only the amr awd race versions. Those seem cool too rtr kits only 150. Just need battery, body, tires, xt 60 charger adapter and radio then ready to go. Sure it will cost slightly more getting everything from atomic but its about the same when you add shipping from 5 different stores vs just getting everything from atomic. As much as I want a drifter its hard to decide from a touring atomic amr 4wd setup from version 2 2wd drift setup which look much more aluminum and drift kit. They don't look to bad to assemble maybe an hour
@@familyman8644 The RTR stuffs and the radio have been discontinued for years now so you can't buy those anymore, only kit with partial electronics are available. Yes, their battery is good but I don't know if it's in stock. Most of the time it isn't in stock... I just checked and right now it is not. Their official store is miracle-mart.com so you can check there for the availability. Besides, you'd be lucky to be able to order it and ship to your location due to lipo shipping restriction. That's why I said to get it from other sources. Unless you'll buy it from a local Atomic dealer then they should ship to you, no problem at all. Atomic has lexan body so if you want that, don't forget to pickup the lexan mounting poles too. If you decide to go with AMZ, it's narrow chassis and their lexan body is for wide chassis so it could look a bit weird but it'll work. Don't forget to pick up the bell crank steering upgrade too otherwise it won't drift. Here's my Atomic AMZ review and pretty much everything you need to know about it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u7Jsw8IW-zY.html It'll do both drifting and touring. I just got it for drifting. And oh... your transmitter got pretty massive receiver so you'll probably have to get a new one.
The 8T pinion is from Tamiya Mini 4WD. For other gears I bought a bag of plastic gears like this bit.ly/359tyVb. Or you can search for "plastic gear for small robot" or "0.5 mod plastic gear" on ebay also the bore is 2mm and there'll be many sets to choose from.
Hi..nice channel !.do you have exact ref for tires and wheels for drifting please...i am i in japan osaka right now to show to the seller ...tires and wheels kyosho brand please...
I'm not sure if you're still there. What you need are - Kyosho MDH100W MULTI OFFSET WHEEL SET WHITE/AWD/14PCS (Since you are there might as well get the whole set) - MDT001 and MDT002 for narrow and wide drift tyres. - Optional, get the MDW100-01 SETTING SPRING SET AWD DWS for more tuning.
@@eversonpossamai3669 Just the heat sink. But I live in a cold place so if your climate is hot, a fan should be be fitted. It depends on how much voltage the fan requires. For small computer fan it's normally 12V so you can make a connector and plug it directly in to the battery. 8.4V max won't burn it. Otherwise use either BEC to regulate the volt to 5V if you have low voltage fan.
hey beaver. got my k989 couple weeks ango and decided to make it drift. i ordered mini z adjustable offset set of rims (8.5mm and 11mm) with lf3 tires(8.5mm front, 11mm rear) will they fit onto the rims?
@@stiletto9 Offset generally depends on the body. However I recommend low offset at the front like 0-1mm to avoid or lessen the scrub radius (distance between the pivot point and tyre contact). As for the back, it should be the same as the front or if you plan to use 11mm then use a lower or equal offset.
2030 motor is not the right size for this car. For budget setup now there's Surpass Rocket 1625 with small ESC that will fit perfectly on this car. The price is not much different than Hobbywing 2030 combo and it will be much lighter and more appropriate on this car too. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html ps. This video is outdated now and I'll update my setup as soon as mine arrive.
@@Izlolz They said it can but so far no programming card works yet. The ESC is pretty good. Of course it's not like $35 Atomic ESC but from what I've heard it works very well and got enough power for any motor of this size. You only need to calibrate it by holding throttle at full reverse on the transmitter, turn the ESC on, wait a bit and let the throttle go back to centre. It just came out not long ago and not many people has got it yet due to shipping delay. I've been waiting for more than a month now.
If you are going to keep the chassis stock, it is a good budget car. But if you want to go full aluminium upgrade with carbon fiber chassis, just get BZ/SZ or GLA. This chassis isn't worth doing much metal upgrade. Some of the upgrade kits even cost more than Atomic AMZ if I remember correctly. ps. I spent most money trying on different electronics so that why it looks expensive.
IF you where to do this again would you use the same motor? I say this cause im copying your build right now. I have 3 of these along with my carisma gt24. Your videos are awesome!
Nowadays I would change the motor simply because 9500KV is too fast and difficult to drive. I'd change it to Surpass Rocket, bit.ly/3ircxKC 3500KV for drifting and 5500-7500KV for touring depending on how long the straight is. As for the ESC I would use DasMikro. bit.ly/3h07teH (out of stock in banggood now, check in Aliexpress if you are in a hurry) It works the same as EZrun 18A but much smaller. I'm not sure what motor GT24 uses but if I remember correctly it's 1222. Anyway, if it can fit 1625/1410 you can copy my electronics build straight on. Otherwise, get the DasMikro ESC and use any motor that works with your car.
It's from Tamiya Mini 4WD. You can also find it in "small plastic gears" bag like this bit.ly/3oXbPq3 . To run a small motor pinion like this you'll need the 29T spur.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you Beaver for all your help waiting for parts to arrive FYI finally they have made metal crown and transmission gears found them on Aliexpress for this little beauty no more chewing up those pesky crown gears I went through lots on my older build, also ordered new all metal parts from banggood apparently fits much better then previous metal kits
@@tecnikturbo It's a bit difficult for me to order things from Aliexpress now so I didn't get the metal prop shaft gears. I've seen some other people use them as well and they work perfectly with the metal differentials.
@@BeaversHobby Hi Beaver I could forward you anything you need from Aliexpress I get most things sent to my Familys UK address then they send to me here in Cyprus
@@BeaversHobby Hi Beaver so I just installed the 9t and 29t but she not fast at all on full thtottle, seems tight when I try to push it by hand, everything looks good as far as pinion spur gear gap any ideas?
I'm still doing it. That's why I'm putting put this car (touring project) on hold. RWD drift got delayed because I'm still waiting for ball heads with more articulation to arrive but it's been too long so I might carry on without them. I was suppose to be here for this week video though.
Magnet mount will work for drift car, I also did it here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hrUr2lJxqkk.html . For touring car the body will come off in crashes very easily so it's more secured to use old style posts and clips.
@@royaartsen3628 Surpass is one of the worst you can get and it not just has cogging but the response is really slow as well. So, Hobbywing will be a big step up.
Can you recommend spare batteries for the K989 please? I’m ordering this model now (I’ll be sure to use your affiliate link at banggood) and I do plan to switch to a brushless motor but not right away.
The other one I use is Giant Power 350mAh. The capacity is smaller so running time is a bit less but it fits the original bracket perfectly (and also fits every car I have). goo.gl/3emgQw You can remove the battery tray then stick anything that is no longer than 58mm down with double sided tape. goo.gl/KbeAZ2 This will give you longer run time. Also thank you for your support.
will it be possible to use a tamiya mini 4wd motor like the hyper dash to this car? i understand that its a brushed motor, but brushless is too expensive for me
From Mini 4WD, no. You need screw mounting holes to put the motor on the mount. There are brushed motors from PN Racing which have holes and will go in this car. You might be able to find some can and mod it too, that's just a thought.
Yes, Tamiya Mini 4WD motor will fit the Q2. I actually have an Ultra Dash in one of my Mini 4WDs and someday, once I find a track, I'll put it in my Q2. Right now there's just nowhere to put that kind of power to good use.
@@BeaversHobby gona look forward to that. ive been trying to do it with toy grade rcs with no success. the last car i tried, which was quite similar in design with your 1/32 auldey, sounds faster when i lift it. but when its on the surface it ran slower. and then after a few minutes something in the electronics smelt burned
@@DioDurant Sounds like ESC couldn't handle the current and burnt out. I feel more comfortable doing this with Q2 because if the board burnt, I can change it easily. If Mini-Z board burnt it'll be very expensive.
@@aliffsuhaimi3078 Surpass Hobby 1410. It's about 10USD on ebay so I think you can find it very cheap anywhere else. www.ebay.com/itm/Surpass-Hobby-1410-Brushless-Motor-Remote-Control-Accessory-for-1-24-1-26-RC-Car/332719063303?hash=item4d779a0107:m:m_aXTbfy9OM90120JYTCStg:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
I wish you would sell me one of those builds? Ill pay an extra up to 400 for one. Do you have an atomic for sale rtr? Ill pay 100 extra for the build or wait til I have more time in winter and build ome myself. How long could it take an hour or so? Atomic should have everything needed to complete their cars. Thats alot of work looking online. I have no patience for it to the point Im just gonna buy a used built atomic car
No, This one is equivalent to 130 brushed which is 1410 or 1625 in brushless. From what I see HBX Rampage 1/18 uses much bigger motor I think it's 380 brushed or 2838 brushless.
Ride height: Yes, you need M2 grub screws Camber: Originally, no. Can be done with mod - cut the arm and insert screw Toe: Originally, no. Can be done with a bit of mod, the same way with camber Caster: Originally, no. Can be done with mod too but I don't recommend. Spring tension: adjust with included preload clips. You can add more too or change the spring if you like.
i want to try this setup in rwd ezrun 18a and atomic 10000kv, but im afraid overheat issue in this motor. coz i was used a rocket 9500kv and too much overheat even i play it in 1 minutes with 40% epa.
@@uchianxgaul If you have to lower the EPA then get a slower motor is better. You'll have better control over it. The cogging with EZrun is minimal, I'd say it's about the same as Atomic or GL sensorless.
In this video I still used Firelap slick tyres. bit.ly/2PFL89W However I recommend Kyosho radial tyres if you can buy from Japan (or check out your local Kyosho dealers) Front 20 degree/Rear 20 degree Front bit.ly/2U1oxXf Rear bit.ly/2NvknFB Don't forget the wheels: Front bit.ly/2WSecRf Rear bit.ly/2znzs3K
Here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ey32jZ30KaQ.html Or a budge build here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j9pO35iaqfo.html
The Leopard motor is really fragile. You need to have electrical glue or fluid electrical tape to hold the wires in place where they come out of the motor can. I got one and it broke within first 5 minutes of running. Back then it was like $28 down the drain in a few minutes of running. I was heart broken so I went crazy with 9500KV. If you want a good inexpensive motor right now I suggest Surpass Rocket series. Combine it with EZrun and it'll be fantastic. By the way after using this 9500KV combining with 2S lipo it for a while I came to the conclusion that the car is pretty much uncontrollable. I had too many crashes so I went back to brushed motor.
@@BeaversHobby thank you, I was asking because I had a kyosho 4x4, I had done a brushless swap, it didn’t reverse, I thought it was because I had a cheap esc.
Motor installation is the same as brushed. The important part is setting the gear mesh. Here's the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bQiR-cfBnvw.html Then all the rest is just plugging in stuffs which I already covered in one of my previous videos here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BSt7U-yOa4Q.html
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll get one for sure but you have to wait for a while because right now it's out of stock and my post office will be closed for a very long time for holidays. Please be patience. However, here for a short preview from what I see on photos on websites and other people's photos. Long story short, it's discounted Mini-Z AWD MA010. It's essentially Mini-Q Q6 that stuck with 94mm wheelbase. Everything is almost the same except steering link that now it's plastic. Handling should be no different than Q4 or Q6 AAA version because of the same suspension design and battery. By which I mean really good for kingpin suspension. Mini-Q has no history of wonky electronics so that's a relieve too.
@@nandandrw9985 I prefer Q7 CS drift setup. It's very responsive and very fun to drive. K969 RWD mod is still not where I want yet and it will take some effort to get it working well.
You can get it from Tamiya Mini 4WD. There's metal gear too. www.tamiya.com/english/products/15289/index.htm Otherwise there are also plastic gears kit if you look in banggood or aliexpress. There's many gears if you want more adjustments. www.banggood.com/custlink/3GGVZQ482Z Here's 8T only. www.aliexpress.com/item/32977901548.html
@@MrDrpatchadams 284131 uses 2mm shaft for the whole length. At the end there's cut-in (flat spot) for the gear. Basically it's still the same as the K989/K969.
Thanks for sharing. I've seen people doing this too with foam bike handle and it looks great. Unfortunately I can't find those kind of bike handle near me.
Hey man I can’t seem to find the videos on your wltoys k989 awd drift set up videos . I just phurchaced my self things to go brushless as well and found a link to your gear bag from banggood. Is that ware you got your 8t pinion
Here's the drift setup video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zB3pUN9XiSw.html And yes, that gear bag contains 8T gear. I got one from there. You can also find 8T gear from Tamiya Mini 4WD motor pinion.
Beaver's Hobby thank you also the wire you used to solder up your surpass hobby 1410 what gauge wires did you use ? And did you modify the bullet connectors on the hobby wing 18a esc to accommodate
@@harryfp1494 I use 20AWG on the motor but that's a bit excessive. 24 or 22 AWG is enough. I also changed the plug to 2mm bullet but if you don't plan to change anything later then you can de-sloder all the wires out of the ESC and put new and slimmer wires in to save a lot of space.
I'd love to but there's no Mini-Z track where I live. This is (as you may have guessed it) just a temporary track in my office. The car is small enough to take with me when I travel though. So it'll go with me whenever I go on a trip in case I find a track.
Hey love ur videos would love if u gave my video on my wltoys project a view and some feed back would b great i used ur videos to upgrade my car plese take a look and let me kno how it looks
It's because I included everything that I paid for and most of them are not even on the car. But yes, I sank that much money into this project. Buying a GLA is a much better choice at this point.
@@fx9188 Yes, that's true. But 1/10 isn't as compact as 1/28 and I don't have a place to run it. Also the chassis I mentioned earlier (GLA) is the best racing-grade shaft-driven 1/28 at the moment. Either way for $250+ there are better options than to sink in one cheap car.
