Wood Burning Stoves - Questions & Answers 

+Skill Builder Yeah, nearly made that mistake with another flue. Arrows were barely visible but luckily felt the grooves to make sure they were the right way!

If you can just render/plaster the inside of teh opening that is the best as you will not have the clearance to combustabiles for any type of plasterboard. If you need to board it out you can use Hardie backer or a vermiculite board. Lime plaster on to masonry is fine though, that is what the sides are on ours, just make sure it has fully cured before using stove.

Its just a Chirstmas candle decoration which usually spins from the heat of the candle. Funny how many people have asked though!

+Mark Burrows Not familiar with hotties but they are as dry as pellets so should burn very well. All models differ, our last wood stove took more effort to maintain the heat output but once you work out the best way to run it, it was fine. Providing the flue is drawing properly and everything is as it should be I would suggest that you get a real good burn going before closing anything down, make sure the stove itself has got hot. Then try closing down the primary/lower vent and control it with the top vent. Also with our multi fuel we always leave a good layer of ash on top of the grate. I am sure those more knowledgeable will comment soon and may be able to suggest something else.

If your stove does not have an external air intake connection it may be that the air being drawn into the stove is pulling cold air into the room, meaning that the draft makes it seem cold all the time.

This is one of the best purchases we have made to date. Size is spot on for our room, and easily heats the next room when bifold a open. If you can go for the vision 500 them do as it is so adaptable you can run it just how you need it. Not come across any other stove that are as easy to light and that keep glass so clean.

Non mm,m,

Is there any smoke issues in rooms when cleaning stove etc?

Possibly. It can be a costly way to buy it and often it's softwood. We light the fire with 3 or 4 logs and then need to add 1 large log every hour or so I guess. The key is buy in bulk if possible and only seasoned hardwood. That will give you long burn times and the most efficient way to buy. Unless you have woodland or a free wood source it usually ends up costing more than oil/gas, at least at the moment. :-( Enjoy your fire though, nothing beats it!

I would, its safer to do so and the certificate you get from the sweep can be used to help sign it off

+airwood99 To be honest this stove barely needs to be touched as it tends to stay clean 99% of the time. A mentioned above, dry fuel is the key. If it is very sooted up you can just use oven cleaner and paper towel.

+airwood99 Use a little bit of wood ash made into a paste with a little water. Rub it on the glass and then clean off with a dry rag. It is brilliant.

Not with this stove design. Oven cleaner can help on older stoves.

It's not a fan, it's a christmas decoration. Usually candle powered- you can just see the tea light sized metal cup at the base. Its a decorative item, not serving any practical purpose. You can get heat powered stove fans though which circulate the heat.

As Spencer has said, it is just a decoration that spins with the heat. Actually it gives a good guide to how hot it's burning too. A stove fan is on the Christmas list and should be a great addition.

Thanks. We have just paid a deposit on a stove and will also buy a fan (not a xmas dec lol) for heat distribution.

+christina farley We got one ourselves for Christmas so will do a video on our findings once we have used it for a while. Trc

Ah great, thanks.

Gollammeister probably not

+Alex Terry Our hearth was a honed granite, which is basically a lustre/unpolished finish. It looks a litte more like slate but does not mark as easily. We had it cut to our measurements by a local granite worktop place for around £150.

+TheRestorationCouple So the granite and cut in total was £150?

Just found the invoice, it was £180 all in. We collected and fit it ourselves. It was 20mm granite and we had the edges chamferred and corners finished with a 30mm radius. Hope that helps.

+TheRestorationCouple Cheers dude. Really like the hearth.

+Alex Terry What paint did you use to paint the fireboard?

Not with this stove but it is usually an indication of bad or unseasoned wood and also condensation in the flue. Is the liner insulated and what is your outdoor temp at the moment?

Yep, totally agree ..... it really makes me wonder how we ever survived up until now

@@maccipher2564 So basically, lets reduce everything to the lowest common denominator so that everyone with an active braincell has to suffer - talk about a dumbed down society!

Its also about so called specialists having to install it for 2 grand after convincing people its dangerous and can only be done by a pro ,bollox .

+Glyn Tutt Thanks for the great tips Glyn. Hadn't realised that it didn't have to be signed off, I did mention it to our BCO when he was in to check some other and assumed it had to be signed off too. How does one use a solid liner in an older property, assume that has to be external or separate from the original chimney?

Flexible liners are easier to fit, they are lighter in weight and for a professional fitter they comply with accepted regs. However, they lack the possible benefit of a rigid systems option to have insulation. Usually a load bearing bracket is fitted to the back wall inside the chimney. I have then inserted the liner, one section at a time from the base. Someone on top then fits a concrete or stone slab to stabilise it and fit the cowl. The bracket clamps around the lowest section and is good for a a length of 6m. The regs apply to new builds or when you are doing controllable rennovation. If you have an existing chimney in an existing house and do not live in a smoke control zone, then all you are doing is improving an existing installation.

They're not, they are just tightening up the particulate emissions controls.