Wood Dyes Wood Prep and Popping Figured Wood Grain 

You are awesome! I need to try this when I am done repairing the shop ceiling from a leak 👍Thank you for sharing that fam!

that is killer info! I wonder if it makes planing all woods more smoover. ever tried it with softwoods?

Happy I could help out. Thank you for letting me know. 👍

@zach2117 Thank you for watching. The dyes do most of the work for you. Testing with the sealer on scrap pieces would be the best advice to understand the final result. I am sure you will be happy 😊

Thank you fam... I appreciate that. 🙏

Thank you :) Pigment is quite different than what these are, so if you liked pigments, I really think you like these wood colorants. They have a cleaner, more transparent look, and will be quite a bit more vibrant ;) Thank you so much for the great input, and for watching! So happy I could help out 👍

Some I hold onto for testing purposes, how they aged, how the sealers affected them, durability testing, etc, Some I make into color chips, for future reference, and write formulas on the back and seal them, wrap them, and stored in dark cabinet. Some I put into a bin for later use in random collage or something, and some test pieces, just go to my Daughter for firewood in case of emergency. Silly I know, but all good causes. Thank you for watching :)

Nice 😂😂😂

Depends on the wood and sanding, but 1/32" would be a fair average depth. Thank you for watching 👍

How did your Tele turn out? I'm literally getting ready to do the same process, and would love to see how yours turned out.

@@CoffeeDrinker71 So how'd your tele turn out?

Sounds great...I would love to stain a drumset too. ....in that blue....its incredible

Thank you 👍

Thank you! And thank you for watching! I am actually trying to get that exact video done on a Douglass Fir. I have tried Sugi on figured maples several different ways, but it just doesn't come out the same for me as it does with Pines and Douglass Firs. Is maybe my technique 🤷‍♂️ I am still trying to perfect the Shou Sugi Ban but I have not had much success on maples with it. 👍 Anyways, I am hoping that video I am doing with the Fir burning and dye will be done in a day or two. It looks absolutely mezmorizing 😁 Thank you again for watching!

Thank you! I get so many comments ranging from too long, to Brother, you need to give us more information, so finding that happy medium is the trick. I tend to lean toward the over detail side, so hopefully I can figure out what is most preferred by the majority. I have quickly found out, it is VERY difficult making everyone happy, so I need to stay on point with what I feel is value added lol. Hey thank you so much for watching and the awesome comment!

Thank you! Oh man there are some techniques with these wood dyes that would look utterly amazing 👍 Thank you for watching!

That is when you have to decide how many guitars you are going to build ..hahaha. I have heard of some guys getting 20+ guitars out of one Keda Dye Kit. Thank you for watching :)

Lol I think I am getting there. Turns out I speak much better and louder when I stand up doing the voice work. Heck my last couple vids I even got er done in less than 5 re-do's That is pretty huge for me 😆😂🤣😂 Thank you for the great comment and for watching 👍 I will get there...

OMG! Bob! How the heck did I miss this comment?!?! GRRR... I totally understand if it is too late. I guess I would start out with what color are you thinking? Browns/Yellows/Blues etc? I am sure that no matter what you do with that beautiful wood it will be absolutely amazing! Once we figure out the color the rest should be rather easy lol. I really am SO sorry for missing this, and absolutely honored you reached out to me. Then I just whiff it ugh. Sometimes I just get so wrapped up in so much "Stuff" and well, honestly, the past couple months have been one of those "Life Winters" you just cant wait for the "Spring" to come back to feel the warmth of the Sun shine on your face once again.

I am going to try that! If that works, you are my new hero lol 😆 👍 Thank you 👍

@@KedaWoodDye Oh it'll work... I work with figured woods, almost exclusively. Got It as a tip from one of the woodworking ancients...😏

Happy it helped out. I think you will love it! It looks descent on the video, but when you see it in person, is even better 👍 Thank you for watching!

You certainly could 👍 The only difference, be careful with sanding back. The powders when mixed with water, are designed not to dig in as deep, so they require less sanding, to help prevent sand throughs. Otherwise, you could also go with a diluted black, apply that way, then go with the primary coloring. Here is an example of that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sGdoT6VuyTE.html Is not veneer in that video, but the principal and technique would be very similar 👍

I used Danish oil for my bed frame build. Or maybe it was Tung. I can’t remember now. But I know what you mean. Every time someone comes over I tell them to touch my bed frame. 😂 Half the time I don’t think they understand what I’m trying to explain as they just tentatively tap it with their finger, but the “softness” from wet sanding that first coat is unique to oil finishes and simply can’t be explained. It’s incredibly satisfying to use this technique.

Happy it helped out 👍

Awesome point! 👌 Have had that happen on my 6ft flag I made for the shop. I hand sanded the pine after and had to reburn it. Ugh lol 👍

Happy I could help out 👍 Thank you so much for watching!

Oh boy... interesting stuff. Keda Dyes will work very well with an oil based sealer as a top coat. I prefer oil based for certain colors like yellows, oranges, some browns, some greens etc. I like how the oil based versions patina (yellow) over time, and can really add to color work over time. Depends on the color work you are doing. Great video idea though! Thank you fam!

My question was about its comparability with cellulose, not oil base finishes. In my experience, dyes that are not compatible with cellulose tend to fade very quickly when applied to wood.

I have here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ithKmmYCvNM.html it depends on the wood honestly. There is 60,000 species of wood. It really depends on the wood you plan on working with.

Tape would not stop the dye stain from running under the tape. You could use a razor to cut the wood fibers to prevent the dyes from traveling to an area, as well as a woodburning iron. I use razors when making USA flags and works quite well :) Practicing on some scrap will help you get a bit of practice ;)

Hahaha I totally understand the exhausted and info starts running together part lol, believe me I do 😂 Actually, no, I did not wet sand and polish the finish at all, nor did I wet sand between coats. I did do a 320 grit sand after the 2nd coat dried for 24 hours, then applied final coat. That between coat sand helps to remove defects/debris, or other "Things" that can reduce the perfect top coat look. Now with that said, you can go with a 220 grit sanding instead of the 320, but I used the 320 because the sealer was actually in pretty good shape. I mean it wouldn't hurt to wet sand between coats as long as you allow the sanding wash to fully dry before applying the next finish sealer coat. I typically reserve wet sand/polishing for the final top coat after the sealer has cured for a couple weeks, but do not do that very often. Guitar work, yes, chances are I would wet sand and polish that, but after applying 6-7 coats, maybe even more depending of course. Well, this is getting pretty long answer for a wood dye finishing video hahaha, but honestly, almost all questions in wood finishing are like this. This answer, can also change based on the sealer itself. Not all sealers are made the same, and other techniques, or "Polishing" make be a better fit. However, I really hope this helps out somewhat. I can't wait until I have a little more space with this new shop. Hopefully, I can swing it all, and then I will try to make some more diversified videos as well as coloring formulas 👍🤞🤷‍♂️ Wish me luck 😁 Thank you for watching 👍 and so so sorry for missing this come through 😔

Happy I could help out 👍🏻 That sounds like a very cool project! What I project it will look like is lighter centers and the top and bottom of the edge will be slightly darker making a really cool contrast and project idea. I think it will work amazing with these wood dyes 👍🏻 Thank you for watching!

Did you every try this? Do you have photos? That sounds awesome

Thank you! and thank you for watching!

The only other real tip I could offer on that particular combo, would be to go light on the black dye mixing ratio if you want the blue dye to show through. Otherwise, seal the blue dye first before applying the black dye atop to help the blue dye still show through. Thank you so much for watching 👍

@@KedaWoodDye Thank you so much for replying!

Thank you and thank you for watching 👍

No, any dye or stain must penetrate the wood.

I typically dont use a pre conditioner other than maybe wetting the wood out, but it really varies based on the wood itself, and the look trying to attain. The pre stain will make a more uniform coloring, but will will also reduce the contrast of light and dark in figured woods. Now there are times that I do color the pre stain product also, to try and add even more contrast, or to add a new depth of coloring beneath say a canned wood stain, or secondary color of the wood dyes. There really is so many options and ways to go. I know I have to get more wood coloring videos out. I really do...lol. As for ordering, the Keda Dye website is always a good way to order, otherwise, Amazon or eBay is also a great way to order as well :) It really is what is easier for you, and what your preference is. For the most part, the kits will arrive very fast either way lol Thank you for watching...really appreciate it!

Keda Wood Dye thank you for the follow up. Sending in order tom am. Thanks again Pal.

@@patrickincharlestonsc4935 happy I could help out. I think you will be pretty happy with this wood dye 👍 Have a great new year!

You ALWAYS want the dye stain dried before applying any clear coat ;) Otherwise, you can get "Fisheyes" or defects in the sealer coat.

@@KedaWoodDye thank you for that, I ordered myself some powder dye, and I'm super excited, can't wait for it to get here.

Lacquer does not need to be sanded between coats usually, but I always end up with some nib, dust, or something in the sealer, so I typically do a between coat sand after the 2nd coat. Just something I do. Lacquer usually burns into itself pretty well. Thank you for watching!

You could, but then I would recommend adding some rubbing alcohol to help preserve them longer. I have mixes that are over 2 years old know that I still use. Sometimes I just add some fresh powders to help keep them fresher from time to time. I have one mix that is 28 months out now that I used for restoring the railings in the house. I mixed it with 20% water and 80% rubbing alcohol and made about 1 quart up. I just finished the 3rd to last railing last week.