Im not sure you are realy doing it right. You raise the grain ... then sandit again a lot. You took the little fibers and the wood to a level were if you re apply mathanol you'll have raised grain again. You should super light sand after raising the grain man usually 320 grit and just barely touch the wood
Brad I'm so lost, I've looked everywhere online and don't really know what to do 100%. I'm trying to take this guitar kit I have and spray paint it white, I don't want it the body to look grainy or look like it's made out of wood. I'd like the consistency or texture of glass, I'm not sure what steps to take to achieve this or if it's possible. can you please point me in the right direction? thank you so much!
Hi Daniel. If you want that smooth glossy finish you'll want to follow the steps in this video, and then grain fill. I have a video about how to grain fill with paste wood filler that you might find helpful for that. Then you can spray your primer on there, wait for it to dry, and sand it completely smooth. After that, the grain patterns etc. will be gone and you can proceed painting the surface as though it were glass or plastic.
I heard that you should NOT sand it too much or too hard AFTER raising the grain BUT maybe using a scotch brite pad and not a piece of sand paper is why you did sand harder than one would if using sandpaper to remove the fibers after raising/popping the grain.
Hello Brad! Im about to finish a raw Strat Alder body. The only chemical I have available here is Denatured Ethanol(99.9% SDA40). Can I use it to raise the grain? Is it necessary? Im going to finish it with all nitrocellulose lacquer finish. Sanding sealer,Color,Clear
You can use that, but it’s not really necessary. Your first coat of sealer will raise the gran and it will be sanded out when you sand the sealer smooth.
@@BradAngove so do you recommend applying a few coats of Nitrocellulose Sanding Sealer (Even if the body feels rough between coats) and only at the end of the last coat sanding the body? Or sanding the first coat to get the raised grain level, and then applying the other coats with no sanding in between?
I'm confused. Raise the to rub it off then sand it smooth..does the grain get raised again? Does this process eliminate having to use grain filler on oak cabinets? To get a smooth painted surface?
If you raise it and then smooth it it won’t really raise again unless you sand too far. That doesn’t obviate the need for grain filler then, particularly on an open grained wood like oak. It just keeps the grain from raising again when you stain or seal.
Hey Brad. I enjoy feeling the wood grain a little bit through the finish. Can I skip this step (in finishing a guitar) and have a little bit of that grain feel at the end? Will there be any problems that arise with that? For reference I'm going to stain the Alder body and finish with a Polyurethane Satin, all wipe on.
You can skip this step if you want. It likely won't make any difference on Alder. That being said, this isn't the part of the process that will affect if you can feel the grain. This part is just to prevent little wood fibres from sticking up and making the poly rough. The step that you will want to skip is grain filling.
Complete noob here wanting to make sure he doesn't bugger his guitar body up, aiming for a matt black finish. So my understanding is sand @ 220 grit. Then raise grain with methanol, scotchbrite and sand again @ 220 grit as described in this video. Then fill the grain with grain filler, sand again then prime and paint? Wood finishing is not a natural ability of mine!!
@@BradAngove That is a very good question that I'm struggling to find an answer to!! Google not throwing much up, found this description: 'deciduous tree, hardwood, large pored, heartwood tree'. It feels scarily light and despite description seems quite soft to me. Being a lefty and on a tight budget there weren't many options. But even through it was cheap I still want to make it look as good as I can!
Isopropyl alcohol should work just fine. Honestly, I was far pickier than is truly necessary in this video. Ideally, you want to use something that evaporates quickly because it has less opportunity to warp you wood or anything like that, but practically speaking even water would work fine. May people use water, or do their first round of staining with a water-based stain and sand after because that raises the grain. I would do this process before grain filling, since you don't want to risk dissolving your grain filler when you do this.
@@BradAngove wow think hes the boss. Mr tube? If i did this and repeated it wouldgrain raise again? How much so it would never raise again if its possible or 1 time enough?
