When going thru vinyl siding there is a vinyl block out for the application. Allows connection to substrate rather than over the vinyl. Over the vinyl creates compression of the vinyl and never water seals.
Most of you guys who post negative comments are funny (in a stupid way of course).It is his house and he did it the way he came up with. I would like to see some of your unprofessional homeowners work. If he could have afford a professional he would have got one but you know it alls get me.
Thank you for that helpful info. I'm also ready to install a woodstove and my question is it better to install woodstove pipe straight to the wall vs up the stove then 90degree turn toward the wall. Concern about the effectiveness of the draft
Do you have an image of the thimble being placed? You cut that out of the video. I am wondering if you just dropped it in through the siding/wrap/wall with no flashing whatsoever. That is a huge water leak waiting to happen.
I have a question. My stove goes through the wall like this. When I had my pipe level in the house going straight out of my house I was having creosote issues fast. I re plumbed the pipe to run up hill out of the house and it burns way more efficient and I not have build up so fast. Just wondering your thoughts on this?. Thanks in advance for your time.
One year and no reply, anytime your pipe gets cold it will build creosote and stop the draft on the stove pipe, this is why you need to insulate the pipe that goes outside, Keep it hot and it will work best, also it may be wrong but I actually used 5" pipe on my 6" stove and built my own chimney pipe, 5" pipe with ceramic insulation and 8" galvanized cover, I didn't use a brace on the house but a piece of metal concreted in a hole as my brace without a clean out hole or TEE, it works fine
I love your videos! You always explain everthing in detail, that is much appreciated! I have a question, I am lookinng to install an All nighter wood stove, with the 6 inch rear flue, do I have to buiild a wall ''hearth'', or just a floor hearth? The stove says it needs to be away 36 inches from any combustables, but I can't have the stove sticking out into the middle of the room, what materials would you suggest that I use for the wall behind the stove? Thank you very much!
I bought super event for Menards in Minnesota and the adjustable shelf support triangular thing says it has to be the other way around at the bottom. Is that true?
Is there a minimum recommended length of the vertical pipe coming out of the top of the stove? Will it draw ok if it's shorter? I have a 24" piece with an elbow mocked up to my new stove, and I like the way it looks. Do I need to make it longer, or no?
I have the duraplus brand. Where the horizontal T portion meets the vertical, it leaks along the factory seam. Is this common? Should I silicone that? I wouldn't be to concerned but it weeps and follows the pipe into the cabin and leaks a little. Note-the exterior thimble was sealed with high temp silicone around the pipe and regular silicon where thimble meets exterior wall (T-111).
How the heck did you end up installing the wall support gussets upside down? They should be below the cleanout, so your lag screws are not penetrating the firestop. That being said, your video was instructional and entertaining at the same time - got a ton of views. Thanks.
I was wondering that too but I have seen those supports installed both ways so maybe they can be installed either way? I am just doing mine and I'll put them under the chimney pipes. I hope someone here will have a clear answer to that question.
For a garage or shop, I would say build a barrel stove for $100 then use single wall black pipe. Barrel stoves, unlike EPA wood stoves, don't need insulated pipe.
When i bought my house, It had a chimney removed on the edge of house with an open hole in the roof like this install. I bought my house as-is and had to do the repairs myself. When i did the repairs, i thought to myself.. These metal stacks are not very pretty anyways. Why not extend another foot or so from the side of the house and save cutting holes in the roof. Can mrEnergy or someone comment to my question? -thanks
4 года назад
Agreed. Not thru roof My newer metal roof is pristine. Installing thru the wall allows different stoves to be swapped out regardless of size. Thru the wall allows you to take stove with you with no hole in roof. Can disconnect easier. Easier to clean. Less messy. No holes through loft. Roof install looks better!
I am getting ready to do this install and its almost Identical. I have a couple questions im hoping you can help me with.. 1. when installing the chimney bracket that holds the weight of the chimney,, is there something that would match the siding notches or do I just calk the crap out of the big gaps between the siding and the bracket.? 2. I also see people asking if you installed this support bracket upside down. Just asking for clarification. I want to do it once and be done.. 3. at the soffit area. from underneath,, is there a piece to hide the ugliness of cutting into the soffit or is that just left open to flap in the wind? I think I got the rest,,, I hope.
The wall bracket will go both ways... It has some sharp edges and corners so turning it up makes sense. Use clear silicone to fill the gap on the Wall Flashing and siding. If you cut a perfect hole in the soffit like I did nothing is flapping. You could elbow around the overhang... cost more
What you will want to do is build a "Heat Sheild Wall". To do this you will need to have an air space between your Cumbustable wall and your Heat Sheild Wall. Start with Metal Studs by screwing them to the Cumbustable wall Verticaly with the flat side out. You will need some long screws! Next just install cement board over the studs alowing for air flow 1" top and bottom with studs vertical. This will give you 1 1/2" of air flow space between the two walls. I need to make a video on Heat sheild!
I assume you don't get much snow. We get snow 4 foot deep on the roof, then the snow compacts and freezes into a block and when it slides down the roof it will take that chimney out like a matchstick.
HI, I have the exact same installation and i get cold air coming in and some water drops. I suspect ice and/or condensation is forming between the dual walls of the outside chimney. Is it possible? Will scealling the joints of the chimney with caulking do the job? Thanks for relying. Cheers!
It seems to me it would have been better to installation to go through the ceiling to create the most positive draw. My intent is not to criticize just asking anyone out there if that observation has any merit. I am considering a wood burner in my 1365 square foot manufactured home. Just asking for advice. Also, would it be a good plan to centralize the wood burner in the house, or not? Thanks.
This application was a two story home with a bedroom above the wood stove. I still could have installed the chimney strait up through the floor, bedroom and roof. Running the pipe in the corner of the bedroom and walling it off would be just fine. You would achieve a better draft and it would cost less to do so. The home owner did NOT want to have the pipe installed in the corner of the bedroom. They decided to pay more and go through the wall with the Chimney. Your thinking is correct for a better draw and central location of the Wood Stove. Thanks for the comment
Ok so I’m interested in what happens between about 4:27 and 4:30 with the interior of the wall and where the thimble goes. I’m curious if you just have the insulated pipe running directly through the wall or was there other preparation done other than ensuring the space between the pipe and the wall itself. Thank you for your video.
The Wall Thimble has two parts outside is a Galvanized Sheet Metal that you can see in the video.The inside part of the Wall Thimble is painted black sheet metal. The two parts of the Wall Thimble slip together inside the wall maintaining Clearance from combustibles. The Chimney Pipe slides through the Wall Thimble inside the home. A Chimney Connector or Adapter will connect to the Chimney to allow for a transition from Single Wall Black Stove Pipe to the Insulated Class A Chimney Pipe. Thanks for the question.
Depends upon local code, but a woodstove can be connected to a masonry chimney and would generally have to be lined, depending upon circumstances. This is because stove smoke is much cooler than fireplace smoke, so it would cool and condense inside the chimney unless an insulated liner is installed. Very few existing masonry chimneys would qualify.
I want to install the same type of wood stove but in my basement. Rather than shoot up through two floors and a roof...I am thinking about shooting to outside through the basement wall then straight up the side of the house. As in this video, I will run into the roof eve. Can I elbow around it? As long as I use good bracing?
the hole that goes through the wall does it have to be bigger or would the pipe fit snug in hole. We got the dural vent triple through the wall kit and on the inside black stove pipe
Cool Man! Thanks for the comment. You may be able to find a Wood Stove used for a few hundred bucks and save a lot of work and money! Unless you have the time and some materials lying around to build it. Then I would have to say go for it!
If you have a porch roof on the front of your house, can you vent it out that way or does it need to be ran all the way up to the main roof? Using 2 45% angles I can get 10 foot out from the main house going up through the porch roof.
The brackets are designed to hold the pipe 2 inches or so from the outside wall. It's certainly possible to use 30-degree offsets to get around a narrow eave. There are design tables for offsets (typically in side the attic) of up to 50 inches or so.
+naturalbornhazer That is an option using two 45 degree connectors which is my preference. I don't like cutting a hole in the eve as it makes moving the stove much easier if you decide to sell the house but want to kkep the stove. I have moved my stove 3 times and I'm not giving it away with a house which adds no value to an owner not familiar with how wonderful they are to save $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Hi Matt, I'm getting ready to install a Metalbestos 8T-Twk Thru-Wall Support Kit (TWK) and the instructions for my kit shows the wall support bracket with the triangles pointing down "like a shelf bracket would" in your video you have the triangle pointing up, is that because you are using a different kit?
If your installing a Chimney Pipe through a Brick Wall you will do the same thing only use a grinder with a diamond blade. You could also use a circular saw with a diamond blade or an abbrasive blade. Brick is non-conbustable so there are no clearence issues. Are you planing to pipe into an existing Chimney? Or is it just a brick wall?
Wondering where you purchase your Metal-Fab parts from. I am installing an Elmira stove that has 7 inch chimney top port. I have a 7 inch ID metal fab type A T and a few pieces of type A pipe. Looking for the wall thimble , short wall pipe, and a few long pipes for outside. I seen some on Amazon and went to the metal-fab website. Very confusing... Also looking for the wall mount triangle support and wall supports... any help would be appreciated... Thanks Matthew...
Thanks for the good info. I have a question regarding the max elbows you can use with a pipe, also can i run some of the pipe in 45 degrees angle? Thanks.
mrEnergy511 You install (hack) peoples houses everyday??!!! I feel for these people! You should do a follow up video of this place showing all the areas of water damage caused from not having a god dam clue of what you are doing!!!
That was the worst installation that I've ever seen. The wiring, the unfinished flashing outside of the house, the box outside is installed upside down, the telescopic pipe inside the house is upside down. I see water leaks, electrical fire, and just plain nasty looking installation. I really hope that is your house and that someone didn't pay you to do that.
Easier if you start with the stove, work your way up & find where your center is. You can move the stove slightly to get it between the studs as you said
Anyone know what the clearance is from ground to bottom of support box? I want to install thru a block garage wall toward rear of garage. But hv ground slope toward back. Not sure if hv to dig for more ground clearance and regrade. Thanks
20 years installing wood stoves and fireplaces! I'm sorry to let you know you were misinformed. You look like an artist and I am a contractor who is lisensed to install Class 'A' chimney pipe. Why do you think they GALVANIZE chain link fence. To hold up to the weather! I think you should stick to what you know like playing that ther gitar! Next time you get FREE advice ask more than one person! I have layed a lot of pipe my friend and I'm sure you have done a lot of stroking of your instrument!
estimated cost of supplies? besides the wood stove. also, how much was the wood stove? lol. what would you charge for labor? i want to have that done , oil is too expensive!
Make sure your pipe is all properly tight. If you get hard rains blowing into the top cap, you will have a mess running down inside chimney. (I assume this is an outside chimney)
That usually happens when you fail to put the crimp side down. When you start out with a cold stove ....expect condensation,dont care how dry the wood is.
I use ceramic insulation and fill the void but normal insulation is supposed to be about 1000 degrees before it melts, it's glass so it doesn't burn, but remember there's more than one kinda insulation, ceramic insulation is good to like 2500
I believe you are incorrect - sounds like you stated you 'could' use elbows on the exterior. As fingers967 stated - the install manual states it is not approved for exterior applications. Since the building inspector/fire inspection relies in part on the install guide of the product you used and NFPA211 - it would simply not pass inspection. I'm not saying I wouldnt do it...but it is technically against the manufacturer install manual and therefore not acceptable during a diligent inspection.
According to UK Building Regs this installation wouldn't comply as any horizontal length of flue has to be no longer than the internal diameter of the flue ie/ 6 inches. So if you happen to be looking at this in Great Britain your flue pipe exits through the wall at 45 degrees into a 135 degree tee piece on the outside of the wall.Also the heatproof area of wall behind the wall varies according to the type of stove but usually requires 70mm of non combustible material.
YES! The cost of going through the wall is about $600 more than going through the attic space with a Chimney Pipe for a Wood Stove. You could still go through the second floor upstairs and maybe just run the pipe in a corner of a bedroom or up through a closet. Using Class A Chimney the clearance to combustible material is only 2". So a 6" pipe is 8" on the outside diameter +2" all around the Chimney Pipe for clearance makes a 12" hole to run your Chimney Pipe through. Once your Chimney Pipe is installed you can wall it in using METAL studs (non-combustible) will give you a tighter fit. Thanks for the Question!
from the ridge of the house..... chimney should be 3 feet above.......draw a horizontal line from the ridge and top of chimney should be 3 feet above that point....maybe it's diff today but that's how it used to be
The NFPA 211 standard, if that's relevant in your jurisdiction, and the Metal-Fab instructions, both require no less than 2 ft above the nearest point of the roof within 10ft horizontally, and never less than 3ft above where the pipe exits the roof.
A Stanton1966 if a truss is over hanging the roof by 12” what is it supporting? My understanding is anything hanging over the wall can be cut... not that I had to cut a truss in this case, I have done that on other jobs. Thanks for the comment!
I'm just saying with my luck, I would of hit a truss. You did the best with what you had to work with. I had a barrel stove in a shed and went to an EPA wood stove. Now I'm finding out I need insulated pipe to make it work. I'm thinking of going back to the $100 barrel stove that hits 700 degrees without sweating!
looks pretty close to the wall inside to me on the back corners, and the wall support bracket is put in upside down. also very lazy not to move electric wire in wall, and not cut more around where it touches house by roof . could cause fire in those spots
The home owner would rather pay $30 for a roof flashing than $300 for a pair of Chimney Pipe elbows. The choice was up to the person paying the bill... Anytime elbows are added to a Chimney the draft is diminished, a straight Chimney run is always better.
@@jtoler5498 Maybe it would take you ALL DAY... I do this work every day so 10 minutes to cut a hole in the roof. I can usually have a Wood Burning stove ready for a fire in about 3 hours or less. I have installed over a thousand Wood Stoves!
NO WAY! 7" is old school!!! most all EPA wood stoves are 6" and thats is the way to go. 20 years of installing and when I started 7" was going out. 2013 bro get rid of your mullet! 6" is all you need for a wood stove with a 6 inch collar...
The wall studs, the cantilevered bracket (which was installed upside down), plus the wall straps, plus the horizontal pipe coming into the tee joint... Some brands include "outriggers" to supplement the wall bracket with two more 45-degree hanging straps.
That's the way it's required to be installed on a solid fuel vent pipe. Every gas appliance has the male end going into the preceding pipe. But wood stove pipes have the male end pointing down. Supposed to be to help keep creosote from building up in the small ridge between the crimp and the next pipe..
You'd do best to stay with the smoke outlet size of 7" , or upsize it to 8". There isn't much 7" chimney around anymore..but I installed a good bit of it back in the '80's and early '90's. It may be tempting to downsize it to 6" for cost and availablity, but doing so is a No-No unless your stove installation instructions allow it. If you're still not sure of your project get some help. It ain't brain surgery but there IS a learning curve.
This guy is going to burn this house DOWN! He has chimney touching a combustibles!!! You need a wall thimble for your pass through. This hearth doesnt meet code! Your clearance to combustibles are way off. The #'s he states are even wrong. You need those bands every 8ft not 10, clearance is 2in, not one.
umm just one thing he has done wrong you can NOT use a horizontal peace of pipe coming out of the rear any more than 6 inch because of the gases he has 12-14 inch peace it will cause carbon monoxide its bad .
chevrolet631 Measure horizontally 10ft from where the pipe comes through the roof. If any part of the roof within 10ft is less than 2ft below the top of the chimney, the chimney must be higher. For instance, on a steep (12/12) roof, a pipe 10 ft high would be too short, even though it is 10ft from the roof. You would need two more feet.
Yeah...but didn't that fellow write that the "top port" of his stove is seven inch? I don't downsize a chimney unless the stove mfr. says it's OK. (and I wouldn't do it then anyway).
You make a good point... However with most Wood Stove through the wall Installations you would not cut through the roof. Usually you will elbow around the overhang because it is too narrow. I have other videos on roof flashing installation. Thanks
Why not show the actual process instead of the before and after? You say this is what we are going to do, then you show what it looks like completed. What about the actual work you did as you were doing it?
This is when I first started! I agree with you and have learned a lot about showing step by step DIY projects. Thanks for your comment! On my next through the wall stove pipe install, I will keep this in mind.
This is when I first started! I agree with you and have learned a lot about showing step by step DIY projects. Thanks for your comment! On my next through the wall stove pipe install, I will keep this in mind.
