Nice video but you didn't explain much. Great idea to have the top rail slightly downhill to help keep the door closed.1st thing you should do is look for cracks or chips. Also, when using a level in the verticle manner, you're measuring "plumb" not "level".
What i don't understand about these instructions is they say to cut the top rod the exact width of the opening, but that doesn't allow any space for the little brass piece that goes in the rail bracket, which is screwed to the wall. see 5:30. Am i missing something? Shouldn't the rod be cut 2X the thickness of that brass piece shorter than the finished wall opening?
I am installing my 60" model in a fiberglass shower enclosure. The top bar will be above the top of the enclosure which in recessed form the wall about an inch. Is my only option to build out above the enclosure so that the wall in flush with the enclosure?
Yes, the design allows you to install in the configuration you want. The instructions aren't clear about that but when I installed the door, I installed it opposite of the video above and the instructions. No problems with that. Installing the bar, I had a problem with.
The directions say to cut the support bar to the width of the shower opening but the brass pieces on each end are 1/2" thick. I'm going to cut the bar 1 inch shorter than the opening to accommodate for the brass fittings. Just curious if i am missing something...
It's confusing but you're doing it correctly. The directions are actually correct but confusing. Either way, yes, cut the bar 1 inch shorter than the opening.
okay im about to install mine tomorrow the manual they provided is very confussing to me thats why im here. its so simple after seeing it being installed by you. the manual needs to be written simpler than that.
@@WINNI.Designs id finished the installment it took me about 6 hours. only because i was very carefull and all by myself. i had some issues, it called out in the manual to use a 5/16drill bit to drill onto the wall and insert the plastic wall achor and i tought that drill bit is too big for it it should of been smaller.also i didnt like the slot onto the brass round piece that attach on the wall to connect the bar across.the slot made the bar slowly creepdown due to the slot and weight of the door. other than that its a very good products so far the wife likes it.
@@WINNI.Designs I recently installed this door in my shower. Unfortunately I followed the directions and drilled the 5/16 hole and used the supplied anchors and screws. now the bar has crept down messing up the alignment. Any suggestions on a fix?
@@10Sethg I ended up purchasing Stainless Steel Lag bolts a size lager and a 1/2 inch longer than the supplied screws. That B*tch isn't going anywhere now. :)
My contractor installed this door in our shower - similar configuration as is shown in this video (e.g. the shower head is on the left side, and the door is on the left side as well). However, when my contractor installed the door, the door was on the outside and the stationary glass was on the inside. This means that the gap between the door and the stationary glass was facing the shower head (which, despite the anti-water strip, makes it so water rather easily gets on the floor outside of the shower). The contractor says that the guide block (item 11 in the manual) was not reversible - e.g. the door had to be on the outside and the stationary glass had to be on the inside. Is this true? Or can the Guide Block be flipped 180 degrees thus making it so the door can be on the inside (and still on the left), the stationary glass on the outside (and still on the right), thus making the gap face away from the shower head? I appreciate any thoughts / answers folks have! Thanks!
Thank you for posting this video. The directions are somewhat vague when it comes to dry fitting this unit. Question... Is the fixed panel supposed to be off the floor during the dry fit and is the floor bracket supposed to hold the weight of the fixed panel? They do not provide setting blocks. The directions warn against setting the fixed panel directly on the floor. Thanks again
@@WINNI.Designs Thanks for the video. Most doors I have installed had a bracket that went under the glass. Does the top rail hold the stationary glass off the floor? Should there be a gap before you silicone it in? Thanks
Thank you Winni Designs for this video. I just purchased this Woodbridge shower door for installation in my bathtub. A couple questions: I would prefer not to drill into my antique porcelain tub. Can I use an epoxy (Gorilla Glue epoxy) or E6000 to secure the retainer and rail guide (rather than drilling)? Also, are you installing the rod into wood beams? I'll be drilling through marble tile, into the wall. Not entirely certain where the beams are. Is that a concern when you install the pole? That seems like lot of weight to be resting on a pole that is secured by the rod secured with one small screw on each end. I appreciate your input.
Paul, I'm no pro but that was my concern. I got lucky and hit a stud on each side. I made the hole in the brass 'knob' bigger and used larger stainless steel bolts to support the weight. The supplied screws just didn't sit well with me.
@@donbardes I ended up doing the same thing. Larger screws and in used epoxy in the holes on each side. Also, the epoxy on the tub worked well, rather than drilling. The system, as you know, seems to be well supported but it's all bit like putting the Legos together. Very happy with end result
Once the cap is screwed on the wall and the bar is inserted into the cap, is it possible to adjusting the sliding glass anymore? Currently, the bottom half of my door has a gap, and the seal does not sit flush with the wall. The gap is significant enough at the bottom ground that the seal would slip off the edge of the glass if pushed further out. I feel like there’s no leeway to adjust the bar that the sliding door slides on, since the end of the bar opening that is inserted into the cap has minimal play. Is it possible to adjust the door itself?
