As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ru-vid.comUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
A Danish barrel maker company now specialising in wooden bathtubs realised after 10-15 years of trying all sorts of wood that TEAC is the only sort, which would satisfy quality demands in the long run. Thanks for being an inspiration here. Best, k
I love your courageous approach to this seemingly unapproachable (untested) concept. Very well done! Gives us lesser experienced woodworkers some inspiration to dive into the deep end... so to speak. Thank you for your extremely detailed documentation - especially with the obstacles you encounter. Cheers!!
Beautiful work! We found your channel while doing research for our bathroom sink build, which we will make from walnut. Thank you so much for being honest about your mistakes - I think we learned more in this 20 min video than in the past 4 months of planning! You also may have saved us from making a big mistake with our choice of epoxy.
After 6 months have the sink finally done! I don't think I can post pictures here. Will try to do it via instagram. Thanks again for being so generous with your knowledge!
It does look like an ancient Egyptian coffin which they would float down the Nile. (Yeah, I know Egyptians don't send off their dead like vikings do with a water burial.)
It doesn't ruin it if you apply it correctly. Wooden boats are often given a layer or two of fiberglass on the outside, which is then brushed over with epoxy or urethane. Once you apply the adhesive, the fiberglass becomes clear and actually adds a lot of visual depth to the wood. It adds a lot of strength and because it's a continuous layer, it prevents things like the pinhole leak he got in the sidewall.
Great job, but in the future, use cabosil fiberglass filler with the epoxy to fill in the gaps. it'll add strength to the joints. It mixes up like a paste and will not run and ruin the pieces you're working on.
Sorprendente y Maravillosa tecnica de construcción Felicidades por tu Profesionalismo y conocimiento de la madera. Saludos desde la Ciudad de México :)
Nice project, reminds me of the Salish ocean going canoes. I have had very good luck sculpting with a carbide oriented strand wheel in the side grinder but the cutter you were using seemed like it was good.
Very nice work. I really like that bath. And good on your for being so honest about the mistakes you made along the way. To be honest, as this was a prototype, try not to be too hard on yourself for making mistakes. It always takes 1-3 test runs before really know how to make a particular component, so the is all part of the game. Well done sir! =)
I was curious. With access to a cnc machine like that why didn't you cut each level on that and then epoxy them together?It would have saved many hours of work.
+Rod Binder hi, possibly would save time if I wanted to make a few baths. Though its not as easy as it sounds to do that on the CNC . It poses it's own problems etc. But mostly I wanted it to be more of a sculpture.
this I understand. I plan on making a kitchen sink and bathroom sink using a log and a grinder with a wheel is actually a small chainsaw chain for a tinyhouse I am working on. I also understand about working in 3d. I have been involved in that since we had to work in dos. Which I still do for some of my modeling. Anyways I didnt mean to slight your work it is beautiful. I can only imagine how many hours your worked on that tub. THanks for sharing the video. Rod
I used to draw saddle trees in Rhino 5 and slicing it by level is relatively easy once you have an accurate three d drawing. And it converts easily to g code. We were cutting them out with a cnc in spruce because it made the leather workers life easier when they had a consistent shape to fit to.
For the inside probably would be better with fiberglass and epoxy similar to the surfboards. Also, you may use a semi-flexible grinding disc to finish off round surface inside. Thanks for sharing your ideas and mistakes! Great to watch cheers
Por fin¡¡¡¡¡ alguien que hizo un tutorial bueno, es excellente, se lo agradezco mucho, la voy a hacer me encantó reciba un afectuoso saludo desde el Ajusco México
Need to apply many coats of gloss epoxy & will never leak. More the better. Leave tub on it’s side and apply epoxy while each area is laying flat with gravity, no sags this way. Every few hours just keep flipping the tub. 👍👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
very cool project! I had wondered early on in the video about how the use of cedar would play out, but managed it well and have a great finish piece. You have a sub out of me! Thanks
That is beautiful. You're a madman. And what kind of magic did the panel beater do, that outside coat looks perfect. I wonder if the 2 pot would go through a spray gun.
After watching this I consider making my own. I think it would be less tedious to do each level on its own as a oval and stack these up later... Thank you for the video!
Excellent job. It turned out amazing! You two did a really good job!!! Dominos would of helped with the small pieces but that would of been a lot of dominos!!!! To bad you live on the other side of the world! Ron
I'm green with envy......... It's absolutely beautiful. If I were a tad bit younger....... but I want to be able to get back out of the bath after I get in it ha
Dear friends, I truly enjoyed this video. Thanks for sharing it. It was fun also, to see the Good wife and tyke! I guess I shall have to subscribe... can't stay away. Blessings to you all, pierre from New Mexico
You shoyld have considered using fiberglass mesh to seal the tub, they are used in boat building quite often and in my experience are easier to apply than several coats of epoxy.
I think the only other way to do it would be to make the rings and then you can add a couple of loose tenons to join the rings. With rings you could use a jig to line the up and strap to pull them together... maybe.
Man I know how much work that is from having done similar "brick-ups" on a smaller scale for round and half-round table aprons. And they don't have to hold water, just have to get them smooth enough to veneer. Normally use some kind of lightweight but stable wood for the "bricks", such as white pine, and cedar should work too, never tried it. Anyway, it was gutsy and I bet it was a lot of fun and frustration, but came out beautiful!
That's a lot of work but unique pieces usually are. Very well done, most impressive - again!!! CNC eh? I really look forward to see what you come up with using that combined with your superb traditional skills Chris
Neat! Lot of epoxy though, I'm always super cautious using it since a prof of mine had a reaction in the middle of the shop (sensitized from working 30+ years in sculpting). Still a wicked result!
