Wooden Gear Clock made with CNC Router 

Thanks for the tip.

How to get the file sir

@@santoshgokul724 in the description above

Hi Randy. Thanks for watching. I also use Fusion 360 for tool paths. I did not have problems with small gears once I got all the vectors closed in Clayton's dxf file. Here are the hi-lights of my typical tool path recipe for a pinion gear. I used a 1/8" end mill with a speed of 20,000 rpm and a feed rate of 40 ipm for all paths. The material was Finnish-plywood from Woodcraft. First the central hole was cut in two passes (a roughing pass and a finishing pass). The roughing pass was a 2D Pocket cut with Multiple Depths set at .12" per pass; Radial Stock to Leave set at .02" ; Ramp was set to "plunge". The finishing pass was also a 2D Pocket with Multiple Depths turned off, and Stock to Leave turned off. Next the outer contour was also cut in two passes. The roughing pass was a 2D Contour cut with Bottom Height set to .04" above stock bottom; Multiple Depths set at .12" per pass; Radial Stock to Leave set at .02". After this pass, the .04" that remains at the bottom of the cut, holds the part firmly in place. The finishing pass was also a 2D Contour with a Bottom Height of -.03 below stock bottom; 4 tabs were placed in the tool path to hold the part; Multiple Depths turned off; and Stock to Leave turned off. The two path rough/finish strategy was motivated to keep inaccuracies caused by tool deflection to a minimum. Because the same tool is used for all passes, they were all posted to one single tool path program file. Good luck. I will be curious to hear how it goes.

@@richardevans6891 thank you for the tool path details. I am a newbie with both Fusion 360 and CNC so your info is really helpful. My problems were indeed caused by tool flex and using your guidance I have all but eliminated the wonkiness. I am building Brian Law’s Compact 24 Hour clock. The smallest gear is 5/8” OD so I am having to use a 1/16 downcut end mill. I thought I had done enough already to address flex, but apparently not. I might still have some backlash as even after four final passes I can still hear the occasional bit of wood being cut. I am using everything to keep the piece from moving including masking tape with CA, tabs, leaving a thin layer and hold down clamps. I am cutting the gears from 6mm Baltic Birch I bought 20 years ago. I prepare it with a coating of epoxy to minimize tear out. Thanks again for your help.

Hi Max. My memory is getting fuzzy, but I do remember that quite a lot of work was required to get the dxf files in proper shape for use in Fusion 360. As you may have already figured out, the problem is that upon import, many shapes that should be closed polygons are actually open. The repair work is done in sketches in Fusion. Many of the corrections involved selecting two points that should be co-incident, and then applying the coincident constraint to close the polygon. This can be very tedious especially for the gear teeth. In the case of gear teeth, I found is easier and quicker to just fix one tooth and when use the sketch "circular pattern" tool to just redraw the entire gear perimeter. There may be an easier way, but I could not find it. Some google-ing on "closing open polygons in fusion" might turn up a better solution.

The gap fill add in for fusion works great for filling the gaps in the .def files. The file is available in the fusion store and there is a nominal fee $10 to purchase it.

The clock has been very accurate. The timing speed is easily adjusted by raising or lowering the bob on the pendulum with a screw adjustor. Once dialed in, I rarely need to adjust mine. A key is being in an environment of consistent humidity.

Nitro, That dimension does apparently include the top and bottom plank thickness. The length of the front and back frame parts alone is 16.87". When I measure from top to bottom of finished project including the top and bottom planks I get 17.87".

That’s good. I didn’t want to pay for the files, then find out my Shapeoko wasn’t big enough lol

Hello Charles, The CNC makes near perfectly shaped parts, but I used 220 sand paper to remove any fuzz left by the CNC. The holding tabs were removed with a sharp chisel followed by some sanding. Thanks for watching.

Hey Martin. Thanks for watching. I have gotten used to the hidden 6. There is a design option to put the pendulum and its hanger on the rear of the clock to avoid the interference with the 6, but I elected to keep it up front as I enjoy being able to see it swing.

Hello Nitro, I buy the brass tubes and stainless rods on Amazon.com. All this stuff is really available there. Thanks for watching.

@@richardevans6891 I guess what I meant to ask was, in the instructions, does it give the diameters and such so I know WHAT to buy? You can get literally ANYTHING on Amazon, so I figured that was where lol.

@@nitrojunkie22 The instruction from Clayton include a "materials list" that provide diameters, other dimensions and quantities of everything needed for the project. BTW I got the Baltic plywood from Woodcraft via mail order.

Excellent! Good to know. I’m thinking of making a clock as a wedding present, so good info. Thank you.

L'orologio è stato progettato da Clayton Boyer. Lo chiama Orologio Numero Sei. Il design è disponibile sul suo sito web: www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite Grazie per la visione.

Hide glue was used because its longer open-time would allow plenty of time to make adjustments to the 12 joints in the clock face to get them tight and circular. I was afraid regular yellow type glue would set up too quickly. Thanks for watching.