Wooden Model Ship Planking Pt 2 

regular minwax stains

thanks forthe comments Malie, its not very expensive to get started. basically go on ebay and look for some easy models . i suggest the Rattelsnake or perhaps the Niagara. then its just some glue and exacto knives. whole thing gets you statted under $300.

thanks forthe comments Malie, its not very expensive to get started. basically go on ebay and look for some easy models . i suggest the Rattelsnake or perhaps the Niagara. then its just some glue and exacto knives. whole thing gets you statted under $300.

thanks forthe comments Malie, its not very expensive to get started. basically go on ebay and look for some easy models . i suggest the Rattelsnake or perhaps the Niagara. then its just some glue and exacto knives. whole thing gets you statted under $300.

Im using Elmer wood glue , but Im presoaking the planks so that I can make sure they fit before gluing . In some areas I am using crazy glue for those that need instant adhesion.

I use both super glue when needing a fast set , and wood glue for long sets.

Thanks for the question , yes that's a problem sure if it was a full size ship it may not make much of a difference , but on a R/c scale model it will be hard to trim that out, I suggest that you place the keel in some water let it get nice and wet but not soggy and then place a flat plum board on top and put weight on it and let it dry , if that doesnt work go to your local hobby shop and make a new keel.

Kenneth' thanks for the info- but after trying many things with it- and asking place and friends about even called up Dumas and they told me that it being a model boat- and Being that it won't be in the water all the time... to just go a head and built it like it is... you can always trim it out on the controller' after wards... so will see' how it goes' got the hull just about done' - I don't know why but every time I make a planked hull one side always seem to come out better then the other side ...but in the long run down the line it looks good. but to me I know what it took to build it' so I can be picky about it' ha ha' I have been building boat over the past 20 yrs now... and have so much stuff to build them with ... as well to. But have found no one wants them it seems any more- I have tried to sale them ... but got no takers... I have given a lot of them away... and the rest just sit and rot on the shelves'... I live in AZ where it's hot' ...you know'... have a good life' I am now up in my mid 70's = John'

ok Kenneth' B - after putting the planking down - I have noticed that the bend isn't all that bad any more... yet as I get farther in to the finishing of the hull - it might go either way- won't know till it's in the water... thanks for all your help just the same'

It's up to you. If you make that kind of error when building the skeleton the boat will never go together. If you are willing to accept a flaw like that maybe take a break from the model. I lost a small piece that was easy enough to replicate in about 30 minutes. You assemble plastic models. You build wood models. Watch some videos by John Aliprantis. He's top notch and shows everything. He will answer your questions too.

Sometimes you will have to bend a piece. Very easy. Wet the board for about a minute and apply some heat and bend or twist to shape. I like using a torch attachment to a qt propane tank. Secure tank and bend away. be easy. It's easy to break a board if you go too fast.

I would suggest using a water proof glue for starters , but the real problem comes with the kind of hull finish your going to use. I went to Chapman school of seaman ship in the late 80's and one of the course was on boat finishes . I will say that you would defiantly need a marine varnish polyurethane to prevent water damage . Now If your building a large scale model then it should be easy to find a dark or even white poly to use. I would also suggest using solid hard wood planking for your hull as they will last longer. Remember that for any hull painting use 3 thin coats . Hope this helps

Basswood is what came with the kit !

also what's best way to mark the ends of the planks to fit in at the ends where the narrow at the ends??

They are office clips , what I did was separate the handles off of one to make two others. I can not take credit for this design as I found them on another model builders page . go to the dollar store and pick up three packs and your good to go. I also used paper clips and cut them to make the dual directional ones.

Look for a planking fan , there are a few you can look up on line , if you look at my first video I show how it works . Thanks for the questions .

Yes I did make them , you can purchase them from the dollar store . Please see my other video that explains how to make them . Thanks for the question .

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--SPcO7El6Gc.html

@@kennethbascom2577 thanks for the quick response.

Its a personal preference Crazy, I will say that I have watched many videos on planking the full sized ships and they start at the keel first and then go to the water line and make up the differences in between the two.

+Kenneth Bascom and what glue do you use? I need a glue for a rc model. Can you help me?

I use elmores wood glue for anything that I can let set. If i need a fast ser because of a bend , like the planks i use crazy glue. What really helps is soaking the planks before hand, and placing them to dry on the model before gluing that way you can determine any adjustmenta before accutally gluing.

Thanks for the comment , but actually I used a Giant Bow knee joint compass for this . You know when your trying to do to many things as once you forget certain terms !

Yea steam helps make the basswood planks pliable