Wooden Shingles 

lol

Funny 😅

Glad to hear that. You can get more shingles out of the wooden block by cutting them 1/8 to 1/4 thick. In this case, a 1/8 spacer should be used. Any question related to set up, feel free to contact me.

I wish I could do a better video but, I don't have enough experience; it's not my area. If you need some info on your set-up, feel free to contact me. Thanks.

Good. Contact me if you need some information.

You are very welcome

Thanks, Thomas, for the comment. This was my first time cutting shingles. I used 1/4" space and alternating the high of the head by 1/4 to 1/2 in order to get shingles 1/4 to 1/2 and or 1/2 to 1/4. You can play with head adjustment and or use thicker/thinner spacers to get the thickness you want. If you need some help with the set-up, feel free to contact me.

If you need help with the setup, contact me. Thanks.

Glad you like it

Thanks, James

Any question when doing your setup, just let me know. I would be glad to help you.

Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks!

Jerry, it's a very simple jig: one horizontal board with two inches board attached to the opposite sides of the clamp. One inch of this two inches board will stick up to support the wooden block and prevent it from twisting when the blade is cutting. The wooden block is attached to the horizontal board using 1x1inc. sticker. If you need some more information, please let me know. Sorry about the late reply.

Thanks!

I never buy shingles and or I don't know how many in the bundle. The amount depends on the number of blocks and the quick placing and removing spacers at every pass. The video was in real time and the action was like cutting regular boards.

Yes they are!

It looks like I forgot to turn water on. Also, we can use small steel hinges under blocks to go lower with the blade and getting more shingles. Thanks Jeff for you comment.

Each block is attached to the horizontal board using the first stick (hinge). Two screws to the board and two screws to the block.

Jose, the actual price for this machine is $3,199.00. You can get more accurate info by visiting manufacturer: woodlandmills.com. Thanks.

look for NORTHWEST SAWYER for what I was talking about

If the cutting path of the machine is wide enough, it can be done. But, never make the cut along the grain because the undesirable saw dust produced this way.

When blocks are too small to make more cuts, I put some of them together using waterproof glue. This way I get one more workable blocks.

Beautiful....watched all over again is that cedar

It is oak

The first one (left) is the one that holds the wooden block to the flat board. It is also acting as a hinge. The second one (right) is just a handle to lift the end of the block in order to place/remove the spacer.

It did work for me very well.

I used some for a roof section of one shed. I have a second shed where I'll be using some more.

@@guillo2388 well cool. When you do the next shed show us how you do it.

I was sawing white oak. According to Google info, there are other wood what can be used for shingles: black locust, honey locust, redwood, cedar, rock elm, etc.

Thanks William. Actually, there are two sheds. The smaller one was built using most of the lumber from Home Depot/Lowe's. The bigger one I used rail-road ties as pillars. The rest of the lumber was cut using the milling machine.

@@guillo2388 Cool. Thanks!

Spruce is bomber....

Long-16", thickness: one end-1/4", the other one -1/2. Width is variable, depending in the block of wood.

thanks for getting back to me

It is 126

Raymond, I would say gravity prevents the block from jumping. Also, as you can see, the block is attached to the platform (horizontal board ) using the first 1"X1" stick.

No, I didn't. In order to dry lumber, one year is needed for every inch thick. What I did was to soak shingles in a solution of used motor oil and diesel fuel (50/50)

@@guillo2388 Very nice, what type wood is this and where did you end up installing these on a home?

@@OptionsJunkie The wood used was white oak. I installed some of those shingle on the front short section of the roof of one of my sheds.

-Pass with spacer under right end, lower head (blade) 1/4" -Pass without spacer under right end, lower head (blade) 1/2"

You can make them any thickness as long as you cut one time at a thickness you want the thick end and then half as thick on every other cut.

Long-16", thickness: one end-1/4", the other one -1/2. Width is variable, depending on the block of wood.

The horizontal board (bottom) is 1.5"X11". The vertical one (side support) is 2.5"X1.5".

@@guillo2388 Thank you so much. Getting ready to cut cedar for our house and your system will definitely work for me. Blessings and have a great 4th.

@@davidbauknight61 Before cutting the blocks out of the can, I suggest placing a mark on what is going to be the top face of each block. This way there will be good shingles right from the first pass. Also, the remaining of each block can be used to make additional blocks using waterproof glue.

@@guillo2388 Great idea. I've even thought of turning the cant 90 degrees so the grain will be in line with the blade and make the grain stand out a little more. I have a blade that has two teeth that have a little more "rake" and gives a more grainey texture. Any thoughts? Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.

@@davidbauknight61 Be careful when cutting along the grain. It creates an angel air like dust what accumulate in the pullers and belt, crashing the machine.

One end is 1/4", the other end is 1/2"

Sorry g maurstad; I was half way doing this job when I decided to grab the phone and record part of the process. I just wanted to share the way I did it, just in case someone would like to take advantage of the setup.