Hi Rick... great job... I will be looking forward to seeing it finished... I made a carbide chisel recently...great fun...there's nothing as satisfying as using tools that you have made yourself... take care...All the best.....Andy
Good on you Rick, you made it in the end! Stainless steels are difficult to work, mild steel, as you showed, is more manageable for the home engineer. Good luck using the tool when it's completed. Best wishes.
Good one Rick, the things that went wrong may have ended up costing almost the price of the oneway tool but now 3500+ of your subscribers can confidently build that tool and avoid the pitfalls. You sir have provided a public service, well done.
100 bucks for the whole, nicely polished, completed tool, huh Rick? Sounds like a bargain! LOL! So sorry for all the issues along the way but like you said, we get to learn from your mistakes so thank you for that. As always an entertaining video, looking forward to the handle video and really looking forward to seeing you use this new tool! Phil
Hi Rick, I'm glad you got there in the end. I believe there are special taps for tapping Stainless Steel. A lot of great tips in this video Rick. Looking forward to seeing the next video and the tool being put through its paces. Take care Rick. Cheers, Huw
Thanks for watching and commenting, Huw. My video on the handle should be up today - it's all recorded, I'm just still editing it. I'll be starting on the use video today or tomorrow. I have high hopes!
Looking forward to seeing part 2 and the termite in action Rick. As always your videos are always down to earth and fun to watch. But now I know I am going to want a termite tool..lol Take care, Gary
you made me feel good. I was hopping you would give me the magic bullet for taping stainless steel. I have countless short 8-32 taps in an effort to tap a set screw hole in a square bar. Drilling no problem tapping not so much. I have tried the slow method with 1/4 turns fwd , 1/8 turn back. That's baloney. Nice video. Thanks Harold
Thanks, Rick.yes, I have tried some times, but it was not as good as I thought, I didn't know if I use it correctly. Do you want to upload a demo video? If so, I can learn from you,🙂🙂🙂
@@RickTurnsWoodturning after watching your video, I found some others to do some research. I do hand carving mostly, and most of the Asian turners are using hooks and rings that are no sturdier than one of my hook knives or a scorp, just with a longer handle. They must use a very light touch on the lathe to not destroy those things.
Hola Rick, I'm constan drilling metal rods in the wood lathe, bout of your jaws have to work fine, just don't feed them all the way to the bottom, the second jaws that you try, it's my go to jaws for metal rods, your put your live center in the tail, just for centering and close the Chuck firm and evenly without feed the rod to the bottom of the jaws remove the tailstock center and you have a secure an run true rod. I hope that's helpful. Un abrazo y espero conserves salud en estos tiempos.
Thanks for the tips, Tonatiuh. I'll try that next time. Probably should have tried harder on this project to use the lathe for drilling, it would have centered the hole accurately.
Rick I'm a retired electrical engineer, not a machinist, and I don't work with metal often enough to develop any real 'muscle memory'. Everything I know about metal work I learned in Junior High School metal shop almost 60 years ago, and by watching RU-vid videos. So my experience is that threading a hole for a #8 or #10 screw takes me, on average, around three taps. As you say, that means that making tools isn't always less expensive than buying them, although it is fun. That's obviously not right, and I think that if I did it more often, I would develop a better sense of how often to stop threading and back the tap out of the hole. That's the key - the tap breaks when you force it too hard, and its an acquired skill to know when to stop. So there are two takeaways here. First, the folks who do this routinely and successfully deserve a lot of respect of having developed the required skills. Second, those of us who are old enough to have had the opportunity to take various shop classes (metal, wood, print, etc - options that may not be available in schools today) in high school are really fortunate to have been exposed to things that may not have benefitted our professional careers, but that are real assets when we retire and get into DIY activities.
Can’t wait to see you using this tool I’ve been seeing a hook knife I’m some sort of knife that replaces the SKU I’m going to try and Make three or four of these tools are in two will be one they will probably Irritate me to death but I have to give it a try thank you for sharing Rick you’re a lot of fun
Ever use your drill press to at least get a tap started? Not under power, but you chuck up the tap and turn the chuck by hand as you advance it. Helps keep it nice and straight.
Do you think it really was the stainless steel, Tommy? When I bought it, I thought it was about the same as mild steel, with just some chromium added to prevent rusting.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Yes Rick, I do believe it was the steel. Stainless is some pretty tough stuff and the tap material can be different too. It is difficult to find a quality tap for hardened steel at Lowes or Home Depot. I've even gotten carbide tip drills that wouldn't drill out a screw from a lawnmower. Go figure...
I want to try one of these. Ps: i recommend that you clamp the rod at the drill press and clamp the tap into the chuck then hand feed it while hand turning the spindle to get several threads started then finish by hand. Far fewer broken taps this way
I don't do any turning but it's still fun to watch. If I learned from all of my mistakes I'd be the smartest person on earth. How do you fit all those people in your shop to laugh, boo, etc (lol)? Stay safe. Bill
Rick, I suspect most folks sharpen with a rotary tool like a Dremel. If you don't have oone yet, this gives you an excuse to add to your tool collection. My B&D model has 3 speeds with the highest 35K.
I've always wondered about these ring tools. In fact, in the old timy days of foot powered lathes, ring tools and hook tools were used quite a bit. I didn't know there were 'new' ones out there. Seems a bit like a 'catch-machine' to me, but let's see you use them. In theory, it should work well, but let's see...
Does look like a risky tool, doesn't it? That's what I've always thought, but I've seen some comments about it working well. So I'm holding my breath and hoping for the best. Thanks for watching, Willem.
I have lots of t-shirts to show off, and I have to work at it. It's actually because I only have about 45 minutes a day to work on my videos, so a simple woodturning project gets stretched over 4 or 5 or more days. Thanks for watching, Waltzer.
The first steel rod I used was stainless steel, and that was a mistake. I couldn't tap it! So then I bought a piece of mild steel (I'm not sure what the designation is), and it tapped just fine. Thanks for watching, Texas.
Great start Rick. Beware of termites in the shop! Two questions for you. The vise jaws, are they an aftermarket purchase, if so, where did you get them? When at your bench, what is that behind you with the tubes going to the outside door, an air exchanger? Thanks, Joe. Safe turning Rick.
Yes, I bought the vice jaws from Amazon. They're pretty nice to have. That thing behind my workbench is a portable heat pump. It works well, but was sized for my last workshop. This garage I'm in now is a little larger than it can comfortably handle. I have to give it an hour's headstart for this shop. Thanks for watching, Joseph.
watching you do the first tap it is obvious that you are not familiar with tapping a thread. It is imperative that you back out as often as necessary. even after a half turn. And there are charts to fr correct diameter with different hardness of metals. 20:18
At 15:53, you say you want to use the tap "without screwing up." That is the correct procedure because you want the tap to "screw down" into the steel. (I apologize for that.)
Thank you, Mike. I don't have any experience in metal work, and just kind of fumble my way through, depending a lot on RU-vid videos. I'll keep your offer in mind!
You had the bar in the center hole of the lathe not the three Jaw Chuck. You need to progressively cut and back off on the thread tapper to clear the tool and prevent the bit jamming Rather basic I think.
I assume you’re talking about the bit inside the shaft, right? I did think about using CA glue, seeing as how that’s the way the bits are held in the Ellsworth hollowing tools. But I didn’t think I could get a close enough match between the bit shaft and the hole. I suppose epoxy would have worked okay, but then I would never be able to replace the bit. Thanks for watching and commenting, Lou.
Well, nuts, you’re absolutely right. It was slightly larger than that the diameter of the termite bit shaft, of course, but I don’t recall what that was, and I’m won’t be back home for some weeks to go into the workshop and measure it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I don't buy from Wal-Mart. But I did buy the taps from Home Depot. It was a DeWalt product, and I thought it would be good quality. It probably was - but between my inexperience and the harder stainless steel rod, that poor tap didn't have a chance.
