Woodwork End Slice Prevent Split, Seal And Mirror Finish 

And I'm learning as well!

Yes but the purpose of the experiment is to bring the end slicce indoors without it splitting!

How'd they end up?

It is only one experiment and I monitor it over time. It may not be the 'panacea' everyone is looking for. I am not making that claim - I am just sticking my neck out and trying a different solution to avoiding shakes (cracks) and so far my experiment on a particular piece of freshly cut Poplar wood has worked.

Hi Kevin. Thanks for your feedback. Sounds as though you are from Australia which I visited a few years back and filmed some of the woodworkers Sydney and Adelaide. Yes mine is an experiment as certain species may not like epoxy resin. Maybe it is the gum in black gum! I've just checked it today and all is fine - nor cracking or internal staining

You would be surprised there are lots of RU-vid videos on CNC and there is a wonderful open source community where ideas and projects are shared. It is refreshing to the increasingly closed mind tribes of woodworkers who masquerade behind what they call 'tradition'. I am dealing with this in a future video. But the innovation in CNC is a big appeal to me apart from the fact it will release my time enormously to do some tasks by hand and therefore it is an economic inevitability. The trap is where people mindlessly copy the past in the things they make on CNC but thats life! CNC is yet to really make its mark when it starts shaping the future.

You could probably figure this out for yourself if you understand the basic principle of encapsulation and how timber moves which I thought I had explained in the video. When the section is greater than a slice then you have to take into account the force of nature against technology. it is the same principle of resistsnce when a 0.6mm veneer is glued to MDF. If the veneeer is much thicker the panel is likely to bow. I wish woodwork was taught in a more intelligent 'from basic principles' standpoitnt as Elon Musk demonstrates in his problem solving. I have used the term 'preventing Nature going its way' which is the challenge. I demonstrated success in a fairly thin lslice of wood with x thickness of resin coating. Nobody else seems to be joining in on the conversation - eg. has anybody else used my method on larger sections? Probably not because most woodworkers tend to stick to tradition.

Polyurethane varnish is traditionally solvent based - white spirit or Turps substitute. It takes around 6 hours to dry. Nowadays polyurethane varnish is labelled as quick drying and does not use white spirit for thinning or cleaning brushes! Confusing world.

If you watch the video you will see I used the radial arm saw the get the wood flat and parallel. i then used a drum sander. also you'll see I uised a hand power planer. wet wood will not split so easily. The whole point of my video was to avoid splits!!

Good question. I suspect yes because rapid moisture evapouration leads to shakes in the log slice. I have not come across any example of an end lice not splitting if the misture release is controlled. It seems to be a fact of nature that one the tree is cut shakes will appear and more pronounced when the log is cut into slices where the moisture loss is more rapid.

Yes but if you watch the video I have trapped the moisture in. PEG was used with the Mary Rose and Swedish Vasa ship after the ship had been exposed to air. The very point of my experiment was to trap the wood in and also apply a shiny finish so it became a decorative object. I did not want to apply PEG as well as epoxy resin as that would complicate my experiment with a potential chemical interaction when it wasn't necessary.

Watch my update video 5 years later. No it hasnt split, the seal still works but there is increased misting which affects the visual appeal. So the experiment continues. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PFLbC__MAXk.html&lc=UgxB54snsyvxyc2rJKJ4AaABAg

You are absolutely right. I forgot to mention quantities and maybe because I thought people have different sized wood slices. I boiught a minimum quantity - maybe a litre can and had bags to spare. Ylou should be able to get an idea of quanmtities by watching the video where I mix the parts. Bear in mind it is an encapsulation and the actual resin depth will be little more than 3mm on each surface.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun Thank you. Robin.

I havent fully completed the build of my CNC but I am pendant enabled so I can do simple surface skims on the wood discs. It was skimming end grain I had in mind for CNC use. So the answer is yes but will your CNC allow for the thickness of these discs I am totally redesigning the base of my CNC to include sub bases and openings for cutting joints on the end of furniture components etc. CNC seems to be conventionally very two dimensional!!

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun my CNC has a clearance of 4.5" and a cutting base of 17x17 so my discs would have to be less than that, which I am fine with. Plus it is capable of carving in 3D as it is a 3 axis CNC. I know that I will have to make the discs level and flat before carving for best results on CNC. I just haven't seen any videos yet of someone carving them with a CNC. Plus I don't know what all prep needs to be done on the wood first before carving to keep it from splitting/cracking in the future because they're still in tree trunk form and have not been treated.

AllI can say (as I said in the video) is that epoxy resin coating is used for ocean going yachts, coating the decking etc. Perhaps if you are leaving it outside let the log develop natural shakes and maybe oil it? My experiment is taking the log slice into an internal environment and preventing shakes. The advantage of my incapsulating experiment is that the end grain is really highlighted because it is sanded then coated.

The purpose of my experienent was to bring the wood indoors! If you follow my video you will see that a short log slice will split as the mosture evaporates and the wood shrinks, hence why I sealed the slice completely trapping the moisture inside. The slice will split if left as it is either indoors or outdoors. Did I not state in the video that epoxy resing is used for boatbuilding so the encapsulation will apply to outdoors as well.

Thank you for asking for my comment to clarify. The goal in the experiment was to prevent any splitting which is caused by shrinkage and moisture release. Therefore I used an impervious epoxy coating to trap the moisture in. This is man against nature and nature usually wins so I can only say that after several years now the end slice has not split and there is very slight discolouration in one patch which I presume is moisture trying to escape and maybe some internal chemical interaction will occur. As I said in the video a polyurethane is only about 60% impervious what you are suggesting is a slow moisture release which is interesting but I think the moisture in the wood would prevent the polyurethane varnish curing and so it would remain sticky. My epoxy method is almost taking nature by surprise in that it cures within a few hours and fully withinn a week not giving the moisture a chance to seep through. Why not try your idea and share your findings here?!!

Look - I have spent hours and hours making these videos and trying to explain every minute detail and still it is not enough!!! I have since made two further videos TO TRY TO CLARIFY THIS EXPERIMENT because of the comments people make . PLEASE WATCH THEM: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bQGrF-KRcl8.html IT TAKES AN ENORMOUS AMOUNT OF MY TIME TO MAKE THESE FREE VIDEOS - HERE IS THE LATEST VIDEO ON THIS EXPERIMENT: studio.ru-vid.compCRYZqt3Quo/edit?o=U Everything I do, every technique I use, every method I share is for a reason. I dont just use a tool or method on whim. There is always a reason. The drum sander is surely obviously much much quicker than cutting epoxy resin back by hand? I use the best tools for the job but I offer options if folks dont have a drum sander. I have expained in the latest video that I used the drum sander because the interaction of the epoxy with the wet in the end slice made the surface rough. It seems whatever i try to explain somebody then asks another question contradicting me. YES THE EXPERIMENT HAS WORKED AFTER TWO YEARS. The experiment was for indoor use to enhance the natural beauty of the wood without it splitting.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun Sorry I fuckin' bothered, you have a major attitude problem and should seek professional help.

No I am just at the end of my tether regarding stupid questions and trolls although I am not accvusing you of being a troll. I just cannot continue to make more and more expanotary videos for free when I have to continually explaim more. Im sorry to be so blunt.

@@brewsterly2927 I don't mind you swearingon my channel though no doubt if Idid Iwould be reported. As a matter of interest what attitude do you suggest I adopt. please bear in mind it isnt just this video. I have over 750 videos on RU-vid so try to understand the bigger picture please and the comments I have to deal with that indicate people dont watch the videos before making their comments!

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun Well it did seem you were treating me like a troll. I am in my 70's and just getting into slabbing. Your apology is accepted, in return I offer apologies for my heated response, the first time I have sworn on YT or anywhere on line for that matter.

Well if you watch the video you will see that the whole experiment was to incapsulate green wood with the bark!!!

I have spent a lot of time making this video and sharing my experiment. You seem to be demanding a quick fix answer to your crazy question. If you watch the video you can see the experiment is going AGAINST nature in trapping the moisture by incapsulation. If you want to release the moisture it has to be done gradually and I have already answered another commenter about this. Putting the wood into a fire is far too extreme. Please go and read up about natural air drying of wood and at least try to understand how Nature works. Nature usually has the upper hand. I have also made follow up videos and how my experiment looks several years on.

Interesting. Any video links?

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun No, a sawyer told me this.

I dont understand your question? What is fully dried? If you follow the video the log is not dried - the whole point of it is the wet is sealed in. The epoxy resin coating cures within a day or so before the PU or acrylic varnish is applied and that should dry touch dry within hours.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun the PU has been applied and that is not dried, it’s still sticky to the touch.

@@dijon900 so presumably you applied the PU onto a cured dry epoxy coating? Did you thoroughly stir/mix the PU? It sounds as though the varnish might be at fault. A sticky surface is usually when a gloss PU varnish is applied to raw wood and the varnish components separate. You may have to use a white spirit dowsed rag and take off the layer of varnish and try again. Maybe use a gloss acrylic varnish instead. That will dry in minutes and you can build up coats. When you say exactly the same varnish as I used do you mean the same brand? There seem to be so many brands and variations some water-based that the terminology gets confused.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun yes I’m sure the epoxy was cured dry before applying the PU. I did shake the PU before opening the can but did not stir or mix before applying, I will try the white spirit suggestion and see how that goes. Yes exactly same brand as the one in your video which was the inspiration for my attempt as I’m preparing them for my wedding in August. Many thanks for your response and suggestions.

Good question. It would be better to allow some of the moisture to evaporate and before shakes occur (so keep it out of the sun. On my experiment some misting has appeared after a few yearts which indicates moisture trying to escape. See my follow up video. Freshly cut would could be 60% moisture content, wheread wood allowed to dry comes down to about 25%. I would say try stacking the clices under cover but where air can circulate and if you can get hold of a moisture meter, montor it over a week or so. Its too late when the shakes appear!

Technically yes but that is just part of it. Its probably better to call it incapsulation - the wood and the moisture within it is incapsulated in an impervious membrane of epoxy resin. It therefore stabilises and inhibits the natural process of drying out and splitting.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun are u concerned that trapped moisture will over time cause the wood to rot?

@@caljay1000 Yes this is a consideration in my experiment. If you watch the video I mentioned the Mary Rose intact after 4 centuries. It is exposure to air that is the cause of decay hence the need for PEG. The Vasa in Stockholm is sprayed with a PEG mist or was when I visited it several decades ago. My neighbour's samples were beginning to get mouldy because of exposure to air while he was waiting for my experiment to conclude. That is how spalting (highly decorative) occurs when the log is left lying after the tree has been cut down. My understanding is that fungi which is the onset of cellular breakdown needs at least 20% oxygen to progress. I will keep posted if I see any difference in my test sample. It is a slightly academic argument because wood used in boats when coated in epoxy resin already have a percentage of moisture but they don't rot. If there was no moisture in wood it would have no strength and crumble.

No cracks. I've been using epoxy coatings for over 30 years so I know it seals.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun nice! Will have to try this method

Just bear in mind that adding stains (why add a stain?!) is potentially complicating the chemical reaction with the epoxy resin. If its a water-based stain then its probably okay as there is already moisture in the wood, but I'm not a chemist so cannot say what else is in the stain. Probably okay as I have added colour pgment to epoxy resin. Share your results here please!

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun I’ll be sure to let you know how it goes, I have a few nice pieces to test it out on. Thanks for the advice!

Just to be clear. The piece still had moisture when u applied epoxy. Ive read it could take years for the wood to dry

@@spins8085 I think you have misunderstood everything I have said. It is the moisture in the wood that stops it from splitting. THere would be no need to encapsulate the wood in epoxy if the wood was dry and there was no split! I said it was an experiment and to date it seems to have worked. Why would you want the wood to dry and if so how dry? I have explained that epoxy resin is 100% impervious so the moisture is trapped in. Drying out occurs by evaporation. There is no exposure to air.The aim of the exercise is to stop the end slice splitting which happens through rapid drying out. This of course is the theory.

Patience please! I shall have to start charging you lot. I am already compiling video footage of the CNC build (a British kit) and am about to take delivery of a small completed Chinese CNC router so that I can see where I am going by using that CNC machine before I complete the build on the first one and make the right choices for size of spindle etc. The series is to be titled 'My Adventures Into CNC Woodworking and involves a big learning curve on my part but I will start with simple manual operations such as surface skimming a raw wood slice. Norman don't forget I plan soon to start Live Streaming as everybody seems to be doing it now and I need to earn income from the work I put in, but I need topics from people like you to discuss. it might be a weekly half hour session. Check out my test 'play around' video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ltfn7iSEeW4.html

Or possibly Elder but my money is on Ash ,all though it looked like it planed up very easy for ash.

No I don't think so, ash has a less pronounced darker heartwood area.

No sorry! It is a native English wood I think so my neighbour tells me.

@@WoodomainJeremyBroun blacklocust Robinia pseudacacia

Keep trying and I will have learned the complete works of Prudentius by the time you hit bingo!