Hi Jon Peters, I am a DYI enthusiast and have zero practical hands on experience with wood working or any DYI projects. Just like to mention that your videos are so informative, simple, inspiring and artistic. Please keep it coming! Thanks
Jon. I stumbled across your firewood rack video while looking for ideas. Unfortunately I didn't check out your other videos or website. Your video's are very informative. Thanks!!
The door casing you used is very similar to what I'm using in our home, Windsor One Greek Revival. Per the door knob lip hitting and scuffing up the casing you can always use an extended lip strike. That's what I did on our doors, works nicely and this way you can keep your 1/4" reveal the same everywhere (all doors and windows).
Jon, Thank you, I sure appreciated the video. Very informative and simple to understand. Do you have any tips for hiding the nail holes in trim that will be stained or is it pretty much just make it look as nice as you can and stain it?
In reference to the 18 gauge nail gun, which length nails did you use for this project? Any tips on figuring out the best nail to use (both gauge and length)? Thank you. Your videos are great.
John, Say you were going to paint the trim work up here. How would you address the nail holes and any slight miter gaps in the molding? Also I've seen some people shoot a nail perpendicular to the miter joints to help hold them together. Is that a process you would recommend? Thanks and I really like your carpentry videos, Woody
John, always great videos. You've been a huge part of my personal DIY projects. This molding inspired me for my own home. Issue I'm having is the drywall behind the back band has gaps as large as 3/16". I could rip some strips to stuff behind the back band. What other fixes (aside from loading up on caulk) do you have for installed casings and large gaps? Thanks!
Hey Jon, I know this is an old video but I had a couple quick questions about the casings and moldings. Do you have to caulk the seams before paint where the moldings meet (like where the casing meets the back band)? Is there a benefit by working from the left as opposed to the right? And finally, you state on this video and others that the shoe molding goes on after the floors are finished. What if the flooring is carpet instead of tile or hardwood? Would you put the shoe molding on and the the carpet guys would install tack strips against that?
+Ohio Digger , I know the question is directed to Jon but Im hoping to help you a bit.. ~Yes caulk before paint 1- Do your trim work 2- fill nail holes 3- light sanding 4- clean up dust 5- caulk 6-paint (no need to caulk unseen joints) ~No benefit on working from left to right its all up to you ~Shoe moulding after floors are done, no shoe if carpet, I like to install baseboards 1\2 inch above subfloor that way carpet guys can tuck it underneath baseboard , on tile floors I prefer just to caulk really tight for a cleaner look. I hope it helps CHRIS.
OK thanks for the info. The house we are in now has shoe molding with carpet but under the carpet is original hardwood. That would explain the shoe molding with carpet. We just bought another house that I will be pulling the carpet out and having it recarpeted. I don't recall if there is shoe molding in those rooms. I know there is in the kitchen but that's tiles. I'll have to look the next time I'm over there. Hopefully the baseboard is up a little off the subfloor. That's a good idea so they can tuck it like that. Thanks again!
