Finish Carpentry TV couldn't you stand up the crown against the back rail, and 45 the seam? Or even the 22.5? (Corner mitres maybe flip.) That is.......if you don't have the little kicker\ adjusters that you use? Just curious. Definitely like you're work and yes.....keeping the eye away from seams is a pro thing. Hide the seams. You're in a nice neighborhood for a reason. Did you make you're overall length a little bit long for the snap in technique you referenced? ( On purpose I mean, like a strong "16th") Well that and your spackle and glue makes for a snug, nice installation. Good job man! Really good tutorial.
That's the type of shit that separates the pros from ametuers!!! Then, he freely shares his knowledge in hopes of others benefiting from quality work as well. It takes a person who is confident in their work to do that!! I'm subscribing to this channel based on this video alone!!
I always tell people to wait 4 years to put crown on new home. Luckily our builders charge an arm and a leg to do it, so we get a LOT of crown molding jobs. Easy money
All that work on the sanding should be spent on markin studs and shooting into wood. Oh ya and cope your corners! This guy has attention to detail, but the wrong game plan. Come back in 5 years and you'll see why
@@andrewelmer9266 he does not need to cope the corners, the moulding is getting painted, easy to fill any gaps and paint, however he may even of measured the corner he's confident enough that the 45 degree will work. Cope the corners of it's staying natural or getting stained etc, totally agree there.
Outstanding work. Really impressive work ethic, and true quality craftsman. Thanks for a refreshing video showing someone who really cares about doing a good job.
Youre the man. You have to feel good. Doing great work. Giving your customer the best you can. Being honest. And teaching the trade. Im a pipe welder. Diy at my house. And youve helped me so much. Same way i help carpenters amd such tips on welding amd plumbing
I am a professional painter for 35 years. I never seen a Nail Banger do such a excellent job on making a trim seam blend in. My congrads to U . But chances are over time that seam will eventually crack. I"ve tried every technique and filler on the market. Natural temp. changes causing expansion and contraction eventually win.
This small time DIYer sends you many thanks for an excellent vid showing us next level work in layman's terms....and another sub for your channel. Good stuff here! Going to be trying this tomorrow.
nice video, but many of us coming for advice are weekend carpenters. How did you set that molding against the cutting board? Looks like it is not upside down and at an angle. than k you for the tutorial.
Put that saw out by the curb anywhere in California, you'll be coming out to just an empty extension cord. Nice work by the way. Couple of questions. Why do you you lock back the guard on the saw and why do you remove the stand extensions?
Wouldn’t it be better to find the closest stud above the cabinets and put your joint on it. We always put our joints on a stud it prevents the joint from having a crack in them later when the weather changes .
Tip: work through every grit when sanding, 120,220 320 etc. Faster in the long run, you are only removing previous scratch marks from the heavier grits. Sorry for being pompous. Your whole series is addictive and I appreciate your teaching.
I liked your "favorite splice" of 22.5 degrees and planned on using it for my crown project. But the other day I was viewing a bunch of your videos and came across one where you advised to use a butt splice because it reduced the sanding required. I cannot find that video again but was wondering if that video was done before this one or after. Do you still prefer the 22.5 degree splice or have you changed your view to be a butt join?
I butt joint mine and put a 2 foot Band-Aid behind them. Then you can put pressure on it meaning cut it a little longer. Then the miter doesn’t slide where it’s joined.
So I have done amateurish moulding jobs and now know what it takes to do it. But I prefer to pay someone to do it for me so that I won't have to buy the miter saw, glues, and search for a helper. But I bet installers like you are quite expensive.
Dude ... SERIOUSLY?? To be a MASTER Craftsman at such a young age is a special kind of incredible. Love watching you work and talk ... you are soooo laid back and calm, showing confidence like knowing the back of your hand. That's a far cry from the weekend DIY warriors like myself who spend more time cursing during projects from frustration, than actually working. LOL! WELL DONE, SIR!
@@XBKLYN you’re kidding right? I’m sure the neighbors aren’t very thrilled with all the saw dust going everywhere. No blankets, no nothing. Then the dumbass admits to pulling up the concrete? I’m sure the homeowners are thrilled.
Thank you so much for this video- My husband passed away recently and I am faced with doing lots of little things. I fixed 2 pieces of baseboard molding using your instructions. At least I don't see the seam anymore! You are a great teacher.
My friend, I hope you get top dollar for your work. I'm a Trim Carpenter myself and Most builders don't want to pay for the quality of work you are doing. I've watched some of your other videos for vaults and funky cuts, absolutely stunning work. I had to sub your channel and hope I can learn some different techniques for more custom work other than your standard basic trim. Thanks for making these types of videos for other carpenters such as myself and also beginners.
It is very hard to find builders that would pay for that quality, but I'm pretty sure he's on the remodeling end. I've been in both worlds and I've never found appreciation from builders for quality craftsmanship if it means they pay what's fair for it.
+T L S This is the thing that most people seem to overlook. Quality craftsmanship is what most workers want to be doing but you're limited by the client's budget, and most of the time there just isn't the budget there to allocate this amount of time.
But does it really take all day just to do good work? I bet if the the camera was turn off, as well as his teaching mode, he could whip that together in a few minutes.
Of course not, but when you're doing every aspect of a job to a high degree extra time costs money. This isn't to say that craftsmen are unable to do good work fast, but to do every aspect of a job to the highest degree of skill with the available amount of time is rarely feasible - I don't think any homeowner of craftsman would disagree with that.
Michael Osmon you have no idea what the moulding industry is like. very expensive mouldings are made of polyurethane. not poplar. MDF is the heartbeat of the game at this point. check my stuff. I'm not a maintenance guy bro.
dfw crown Yeah and all your nailguns are made of plastic these days, doesn't make it the best option, just cheapest for production and profits. I install trim everyday man you don't know me.
I am a old retired craftsman that does appreciates a person that cares enough about their work to get it right and better and better.. I would like to suggest after applying the compound use a damp sponge for removing abundance of material, then letting dry for a few minutes wipe again and after almost dry wet sponge and wipe even more... Sanding is not needed most of the time... Just a food for thought... Roger Fossette
Over all - Excellent video. Please let me make a few suggestions. 1) I've been using CA glue since 1979. Looks like you're using Bob Smith brand which is a good, general purpose CA glue. CA glue's come in Thin, Medium and Thick. In this video you used thin. No problem but please know you used way too much. CA glue's will hold just fine WITHOUT the use of an Activator or "Kicker" as we call it. Simply place it on ONE side and then put the two sides together and hold for a minute or two. The use of Activator (i.e. Kicker) is just to make the glue set up faster. However the problem is if you kick off the glue as you did.. it immediately wants to set... thus you had to shove your 2 pieces together quickly. And, sometimes you can't get your joints lined up straight before the glue kicks off. The correct way is to place Thin or Medium CA glue on one side. Position your parts together then KICK off the seam with the activator. The Activator will get into the seam and kick the glue via capillary action. 2) Another problem with kicking off the glue they way you did is that you had to use way too much to give you time to position your parts. CA glue is kind of expensive so that was a waste. Next, looking at the bottom you had chunks of HARD glue and dirt / concrete. Sanding off hardened CA glue is... well it's HARD. The kicker makes it foam up and it makes little hard glue spots which are hard to sand. 3) Last, you should consider sweeping the area you are going to work on of all debris before your work on it. Dirt, grit, sawdust... whatever. I like to buy wax paper from a Dollar Store and put down a 12" piece. CA won't stick to waxed paper or if it does... it will peel off easily. Keep up the good work and thanks for all of your video's.
Correcting some of Kolin's correction, with more fine points: Kolin is correct in that you don't need the activator for CA gluing of a wood joint, and that the purpose of it is only to accelerate the curing to save you some time. Also very true that in the video above, Richard is using far too much glue. The stuff is truly powerful, to the point where less is far better. Also far less expensive that way! I personally use small dots of it along one side of a joint when working on baseboards or casing, or short dashed lines of it when the joint is larger. This has the extra benefit of allowing the glue a place to expand to when pushing the joint together, which also allows the joint itself to be more tightly pushed together for a superior fit/result. Otherwise, you're trying to smash a giant smear of that glue into a paper-thin plane. It'll actually hold the joint farther apart with that much applied. Secondly, spraying activator directly on the glue like Richard is doing immediately starts the curing, which hinders the glue from spreading out properly when pushing it together. It also drastically shortens the time you have to orient the two pieces accurately. Pretty much why he suddenly had to shove them together. What happens if you miss on that first try is that you have to cut the piece off and do it over with another section of crown, saving the cutoff for use in another location. On that note, having to actually sand the crown down to get it to fit means you did miss, and it'll 100% show once finish paint is applied. The proper use of CA and activator is that the glue is applied to one side of the joint, and activator *to the other*. This gives you more time to correctly orient the details of the pieces and push them together carefully, instead of a panicked shove. Two helpful tips are: 1) However you choose, be sure to push that CA glue a bit into the fibers of the one piece for a better connection, like maybe with the tip of the applicator bottle. And 2): Allow the spray activator to evaporate for a few seconds before joining the pieces. The wetness is only the acetone carrier of the actual chemical that 'kicks' the glue. Once the acetone evaporates, it'll leave behind that chemical to do its job and bond with the glue when the pieces are joined. If you've done all the above and slowly/carefully pushed the pieces together (yes, you'll have time), you should have a joint that needs no filling or sanding whatsoever, paints up beautifully, and is super strong. Last point: *always* respect a client's property. Yes, that even means the sidewalk. I'd be pissed if I hired a finish guy to do some trim on my house and he didn't put something beneath his glue work and left blobs of it all over my sidewalk. Just saying, as this is super common mistake that tradespeople make, and an easy adjustment to make in your routine. I guarantee it'll make you a star when that certain homeowner takes notice of how much you cared about all areas of their property.
I watch these videos several times, over the course of weeks, along with some of his similar videos. After a while, it all begins to come together as he uses the same techniques in different ways on different projects. It really is a craft that takes time and effort to learn. He's very thorough.
Hi watched your video and its a great instruction. Im a carpenter, interior system and finish carpenter. Not easy to work with crown molding. The splice you used 22 degree is the method i use. Conspicous placement over the cabinets great choice.
I've watched a number of your videos. You clearly had a great ability to TEACH others how to do trim techniques. Professionals...as well as HOMEOWNERS...would do well to watch your entire series.
Been watching you for a long time just for the joy of learning more woodworking skills. I have learned a lot from your videos. Recently one of my children purchased their first home. Wanted to replace the baseboard as it was dated and worn. This video was a huge help in getting a clean joint on a long wall. Just what I needed. Thanks and keep sharing. We need it
I'm a builder and i've never seen any of my guys take the time to properly make a seam disappear. They all make excuses about their seams coming apart later, now I know how it should be properly done. Great job!!!
Wow, love your channel. I’ve been doing trim for a lot of years and just never really knew the whole backer board trick. Now I can apply this to 16+ ft headers and such and spackle the seam instead of caulk! I will have to try the CA glue, been using hot glue gun with Gorilla glue sticks with pretty good results but CA looks less messy:)
OMG! I feel the love in your workmanship. I watched this whole video and I am not even interested in doing this, but if I consider it I would want to hire you.
I LOVE this channel. I wanted to become a finish carpenter back in my 20’s but I was a working musician and didn’t want to risk my hands around power tools every day. I’m now a technician and make a good living, I’m 51 but always watch this kind of stuff because I miss not having pursued this as a career. Keep up the awesome work. Maybe one day I can rent a workshop and build furniture for a hobby 😄
Love your excellent videos. One helpful hint for you. Put your CA glue on one side and spray your accelerator on the other side. As you bring the two pieces together, your glue kicks off. You have more time to bring the pieces into proper alignment before the CA glue is permanently hardened.
I’ve been watching some of your videos for the last few months. Rarely am I impressed by guys on RU-vid. Most of them watch a video and by the next week are posting an almost copy video showing others how to do what they are doing. They are suddenly an expert in that field because they’ve watched a few videos on the subject. You sir know what you are doing. You are dedicated to your craft and do it very well. I rarely hire someone to do work around the house because I am rarely impressed by their work...so I just do it myself. I’d hire you in a second to do trim work around here. You are very well spoken and a hard worker. Most young guys could learn a lot by watching you. Keep up the good work. If you ever come down to H-town, I’ll take you out for a beer
I want to call this overkill, but honestly I think your method is just the way it's supposed to be done to be proper and finished looking. Standards are low nowadays, and you've found a way to make it pretty and make it last. Great work!
We are in the midst of doing our place so I've been watching all of your videos and have learned a lot of tips and tricks... the main reason why I chose to do this myself is because it's hard to find someone that takes pride in their work so I figured I would give it a go, but it sure is nice to see the pride you put into your work, it gives hope people may start to bring back that trait... thanks for the video help...
Great end result and attention to detail. I usually butt joint and pop a biscuit in there which allows me to glue in place with normal wood glue and get perfect alignment every time. You should cut the video 20:42 where buddy starts to go apeshit with the nailgun.
I have three questions. 1) Why not a coped joint on the inside corner? 2) Did you guys even try to nail into a stud or ceiling joist, or is all that molding nailed into sheetrock only? 3) Is their a reason for not letting your miter saw achieve its maximum rpm before you pull it through the cut? Just curious.
Its a very valid question about where they are nailing. Relying on sheetrock to hold the nails seems to make all the work done to hide a scarf joint irrelevant.
My brother and I have been trimming our parent's house out after Irma ruined it and we've had to hire labor and it's been spotty. Guys oversell their ability like crazy in the Keys. We got a stucco guy who did amazing work and he said he also did finish carpentry. He showed up in a box truck full of tools and like I said did great stucco work and even repaired the wood under the stucco. So, we hired him to help finish trimming the interior and holy crap was that a mistake. We have one of those new dual Battery Makita slide dual bevel miter saws and it perplexed him to no end, then he crushed the lock mechanism on the plate somehow. I watch him cutting crown and does he flat cut it? NO. You have a top line sliding miter saw and he owns a sliding dual saw as well, so I cannot figure out whey he's cutting the crown backwards using a block of 2x12 cut into a 45 degree jig, instead of flat cutting it or using the damn fence extensions. Then there are gaps in the miters in the 32 and 45 degree cuts you could put a silver dollar in. Then he comes to me and asks what's this shit job on my base board and shoe. He'd never seen straight run trim before and coped a corner in his life. I know a lot of guys haven't, but he'd never seen it before. Our main carpenter hates coping. He's good at it, but it frustrates him but he's at least seen the stuff. Both these guys are 50, like my, so it's not for lack of experience. But anyway, back to the crown molding. So Rey is hanging this crown in the bedroom and i notice the next day that it's sagging all over the place. Not only did he just shoot it into drywall, but he used freakin 18 gauge brads. I had to renail most of it. Same with the 8 ince base we're using. Just shot the damn brads right into the drywall. I had to use 2.5 inch nails shot in at angles to get the base to suck against the wall a lot because the drywallers just sucked moose balls. I mean damn, you can't hang trim by not shooting nails into wood.
i was really curious why they don't cope. what do you do if the corner isn't true? mitering inside corners seems to be a waste of time to me, but either way, I think he did a great job gluing up that scarf joint
Great to see DeWalt has those stops. God knows how counter-intuitive those sill compound cuts are. You had a great teacher! He had a great student!! The attention to detail is exquisite! Of course, the 'turd' in me wonders, 'so what happens if there was a slight mis-measurement?'
Love your videos/channel. Thanks for sharing. But an improvement in handling this long stick is possible. I don’t like putting face on concrete so I don’t pick up grit and more importantly, so I don’t dent up/imprint the concrete on the face with when gluing and pressing on the backer. Minimally I’d have a drop cloth down, better yet cardboard or ply down under that joint when gluing the backer. That way no sanding needed.
@@adrianitis3750 the concern is more toward damaging utilities in the wall spaces. It happens quite often. Sometimes a nail will puncture, but seal a plumbing pipe only to start leaking months or years later causing significant water damage inside the walls.
@@premierreefsmn they are most likely using inch or inch and a quarter Brad's which with this thickness of crown molding, it will barely go through the back of the drywall. They're relying on crossaction anchoring to hold the crown in place pushing against drywall down and towards the wall on each side of the crown.
I really like the way you really go into detail with your explanations on this process , but I highly doubt anyone is going to wonder how you got that 24' piece of crown in there . Nice work I to do finish carpentry out here in Vegas and I definitely notice how many guys just do shoddy work . Let me tell you I have seen some really crappy work from guys who should know better , I guess they become complacent or just don't care anymore ? I really like the strength of that hot glue that you use , I'm going to have to get some of that .
Love all your work and helpful technique. What is your recommendation for a return when a wall ends at a brick wall. Wish I could send you a picture. This is for my house and looking to take on the project myself
Great job. I was taught to do a straight butt joint with a 45 bevel cut at an angle facing away from the entrance of the room when joining two pieces of trim. Any reason you guys don't do it that way?
I think that's what I use as well, that way one board sits on top of the other and you can shoot some nails that go through both boards at the same time.
True. Thats how I've always done it here in Minnesota. Maybe he's not as worried about wood movement in Texas? Its interesting how joints are cut different ways in different parts of the country. What a lot of people also do which I think is the most bulletproof is to cut a butt joint and then reinforce it with a biscuit and or a piece of 1/4 plywood backing
Just started watching your videos. Kudos for an impeccable work ethic. I have been building and remodeling houses for over 30 years and love that no matter how old you are or how long you have been at your craft there is still more to learn. Also love seeing the young people involved in the trades!! What is the glue and activator and where do you get it? Awesome job and thanks for the knowledge!!
Great videos! Can I suggest that you wear hearing protection when you run the saw? My dad is 61 and he never uses hearing protection and has ran saws, tractors, chainsaws, etc. his whole life. He now has hearing aids. You can get some that rest on the back of your neck and you just pop them in real quick. I hate to see someone lose part of their hearing over something that is easily avoided. It is just as important as eye safety. Again, Great videos!
It's always very comforting to see that not all contractors are created equal, and even more satisfying to see that the Younger Generations are not only about Quantity but Quality. Great job Young Man!! Keep up the great technics, and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Do yourself a huge favour and refit the saw blade guard to your chop saw. I have sadly known a couple of very skilled carpenters over the years who have lost a finger or two in less than the blink of an eye :-(
no racist JOKE trying to make but he is A BE# @@ NER... the HOME owner which is PROBABLY WHITE made him cut out there in the STREET...incase he got HURT he can not SUE the OWNER and have BLOOD on his HOUSE.. yeah his CUTTING LOOKS DANGEROUS...
