You need to watch the latest one then!!! As a sparks you will get it more than most. (My brothers a sparks) Check out the video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K0xNZPfqQ-M.html
I’m not a plumber but I was told my manifold had gone so I wanted to see what it was all about, may I say what a brilliantly explained video. We have now called a plumber who has confirmed that it was indeed the manifold. I did take off the outer casing to have a look myself before the plumber arrived but I 100% agree with you about the horrible little screws at the bottom of which I could only get 2 in of the six. Anyhoo, thank you for the video and have decided to leave it to the misses and plumber as I’ve got to go golfing, hang on a minute, my misses and plumber, alone, mmmmmmmm. 🤨
Just a quick thank you as I've done this tonight. I know there's lots of rules and regs but couldn't get anyone for a couple of days and for an hour's work, worked a treat! Got someone out for a service in a few days to make sure we are all good. Cheers dude 🤟
HeatingGeek tell me about it! keep up the good work - always good to learn and brush up on new ways to get this stuff done. multimeter testing videos are useful.
Having just changed the flow manifold after watching this video (same pinhole leak) I have to say it was most helpful. Some tips I'd add, the replacement does not come with the top left screw - make sure you keep that to hand - this does need a long cross head screwdriver for best access. Fit the new clips in the block while out of the boiler, they can be difficult to get in. The Flow pipe is best left in the block and fitted in it before refitting the block else it's hard to do.
Just replaced a prv and expansion vessel on a greenstar. Nightmare but 3 hours later completed and a few quid in the hand. I'll be quicker next time thanks too your videos !,
awesome video dude, i have to tackle that job next week and i had no idea how to even start it till i watched this video. just wish the boiler wasn't 200mm off the floor making even harder to get in there and work on it.
Nice video thanks. Got to replace one for a customer on Monday and was worried about getting the top white piece off but now feeling confident. Cheers!
I always sweep a small torch beam around, it will refract on the tiny jet of water and can be seen very well. But they are one bad boiler, I refuse to supply and fit them. But do have to fix them. But it just does to prove the power of advertising when customers say "we want a Worcester Bosch as they are the best boiler in the world".
Use the same analyser as yourself just had it in for service and its come back with new soft buttons and new redesigned water trap with new style screw in water drain bung kane returned it in record time they seem to be a top notch company
They are. If the CO sensor was replaced let me know if you have any issues. Mine does have slightly more issues if its cold (Left in Van by mistake) now.
Once again another excellent video, I had to change one of these yesterday for the 1st time and I had to take the gas pipe out. You made it look easy 👍
Thanks for sharing, good demonstration/explanation. Only thing I'd suggest is - I find it easier to put the top metal washer in before fitting the unit in the boiler. It stays in. A lot less fiddly. Thanks again.
@@darrenhooper3457 you can come and fix mine, ISAR 30se. Will not retain pressure, looses it as soon as I fill the bloody thing. Coming to 10 years now. Thinking of changing it to a baxi.
Good video again. Shame about the gauge lol! I always test the condense seals by syringing water down the flue sample point on the Worcesters, saves any unwanted call backs later with the condense seals leaking!
Heating Geek, thanks for sharing another fantastic video, nice to see the step by step way you do things & get little tips along the way. I hate touching iso valves & plastic filling loops etc😠 If you manage to get a fault finding course going, I'd be interested fella & please keep the videos coming, they're greatly appreciated brother. Love & peace to you & yours💖
@@HeatingGeek I did one of the last full apprenticeships with BG, finished it in 95 lol, last time I was in trade was just as condensing boilers were coming out,
Thanks for this video! It really helped me out! I changed my first flow manifold on one of these babies yesterday. Really glad I watch your video. You are a true boiler Genius! One handed worrier! I used both hands and it took me around 1.5 hours including drying out a PCB lol Thank you! Be lucky
This may be a stupid question but I've got the same problem with the manifold and am going to replace it tomorrow... the fitting you put the hose on drains the boiler, but the manifold is for the hot water side so why close the central heating valves? I'm sure you saved me a huge clean up! Great video thanks for putting the time into making it.
@@HeatingGeek thanks for the reply, I wrongly assumed the systems were separate, except for the pressurising of the ch from the mains supply via the loop. Would seem to me that it would be more straightforward if they were but I clearly don't know much!
@@HeatingGeek as you are very kindly replying to me I'll just chuck another question your way. I noticed the pressure was at zero when the heating wasn't on, having typed this in I have tested the valve on the top of the expansion vessel, no hiss and possibly a little water. I assume the expansion vessel needs replacing but the boiler and heating has been working fine before the manifold leak. Did one cause the other? Why bother with an expansion vessel if it worked ok anyway? Just curious, I'll need to get someone in to change the expansion vessel as the flue is in the way.
The vessel may just need pumping up. Get it checked when the manifold is being done. When you compress air the water vapour condenses out of it. A little water is normal in a vessel.
I think Hilti do a thermal lance that should get that out a bit quicker mate !! Wb Yuk...still everyone keep putting them in....Your investing in Our Futures !!
Not replaced on this occasion ( know by price charged) but it has never liked cold van and has failed to show various readings on many occasions but a heat up in front cab usually fixes issue
I did a return (RH) Hydroblock on saturday on a Greenstar Junior. It took me longer than it should have as the brass nut that connects to the isolating elbow wouldn't fit into the replacement plastic unit with the new rubber washer on it. In the end I put the brass connector into the customers deep freeze and froze it for twenty minutes.....and lo and behold it went straight in. These plastic units are from Grundfos (well it says Grundfos on the diverter motor) and not good quality as loads of them fail. Worcester have never sorted this problem, unlike Ideal who have revised faulty plastics like on the Logic sump unit. One perhaps concludes that brass is still best ?
Oh also the PRV change you mentioned video please, hate doing it on Worcesters,i can understand why its recommended shouldn't leave filing loops connected, as this is the customers not turning them off properly when topping up blowing the PRV causing many of that Issue. Having to remove the block to change them is crazy amount of work.
Hi chap, great video, I have the same problem with my 38cdi boiler. What is the name of the part you've just replaced and does it come in a kit with everything needed? Thanks again
15mm gas supply and looks really grotty don’t envy u , must be insurance work cos wouldn’t be worth fixing . Good video, I fix boilers every day but I have learnt my lesson with Worcester
Thanks for sharing knowledge Mr wise man.. Have you got a video out there of the right hand side return unit replacement on greenstar combi? Keep up the good work man. Thanks
I'm sorry I haven't ever replaced it. I would pull the lot out probably. I would always approach it like i had to remove it all but try and do just the right while I'm at it, Good luck :-)
Great video again, I always give the o rings a spray with wd40/ac90 before dismantling it makes them so much easier to remove. Do you have the link for the injector cleaning pins.
Water pressure gauge onto the drain point would give you an indication of system pressure. I've done it with my rothenberger mains pressure test guage before. Crack it open slightly after connecting the gauge. 😊
Another really good one HG👍👍. The most dreaded Whoofter Botch!! A few scratches on your hands, but no visit to A&E. You’re lucky, the chassis on these are fucking leathal!!! Some wonderful wee tips in there again for the hard of thinking. Thanks mate. What with the composite hydroblock & other faulty components - it’s got to be one of the worst boilers on the market. A German designed pile of shite!!! I’m sure the course cowboys & career change chancers would enjoy a video on FAGS & basic safety checks, but on a decent boiler!! Thanks again fella👍
Thanks. Your mentioned in my next video!!! They are designed to be faultless for 5-6 years (Warranty) and then everything leaks and falls apart. FAGS / 26.9's are a basic part of the job. It just takes time to learn how to do them quickly. Next time I'm in my loft I will do them on my boiler and film it.
HeatingGeek truly an awful Boiler the Whoofter, but hey you can’t knock their marketing skills. Mrs Jones down anyone’s street thinks they’re the dogs danglers!! It does make me chuckle at the dafty WAIs that sold their soul to WB & are now being shafted by BOXT😂😂😂 Ah, a mention for my good self!! Wonderful, thank you!! I hope it’s nothing derogatory, particularly with a name like Dick Puller - one is open to ridicule!! While always cautious of informing the DaftyDIYer & course cowboys of the ‘dark arts’, I’d be happier to see further disclaimers etc in your videos. Difficult I know, but you don’t want one of these idiots messing with gas etc & taking the entire street out! That would not go for good reading in the GS comic next month😟😟 Anyway, I’m looking forward to the next one with anticipation, keep up the good work fella👍
Hi, great video. First question was answered below - silicone grease for the new rings. Thanks. Second question - is it the hot water you're draining down using the condensate hose at the right of the boiler? Is it ok to just drain via sink tap (below boiler level)? Thanks
Hi. Thanks for your brilliant video and help. I swapped the part today. I forgot to re-open the heating return so the pressure didn't go up at first. Rookie mistake!
Good video, I have the same kind of leak on my boiler so it will probably be the plastic part that you fitted that's leaking, I wouldn't want to try to fit a new one myself, could you give me an idea of how much it would cost for a plumber to do the job please ?
how much do you charge for a left hand hydroblock to be replaced , do it quite regular at work, but cards in. what could be a price for such a job around northwest ? by the way i have u seen a technique that a wb trainer showed where the whole left hand block, right hand block ,plate ex, pump, prv etc comes out in one big piece all still connected together, a colleague of mine swears by this method
Yes, I have done that method a couple of times but I prefer to do it this way. Less to undo. Charge what you think is right for you. I wouldn't do it for less than...... :-) Make a rate your happy with. If the customer is happy too, then it's all good.
I got a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30i and i need to replace the expansion vessel, getting pressure problems and water is coming out of the schrader valve. Do i just need to isolate the cold feed valve on the boiler or the other flow and return valves too ? To drain the boiler, is there a turn lever on the drain valve to get water out flowing into a hosepipe ?
Are you gas safe? It is a big job and you will effect combustion when you do it. So a gas safe engineer would be a the only recommendation I could give you. :-)
hi, thanks for your help, could I ask one more question please ? it looks like the Worcester boilers are not as good as they were with all the new plastic parts, could you recommend a cheaper boiler that would still be decent quality ?
Many thanks, I decided to go with an Ideal Logic 30kw to replace my leaking Worcester, I seen quite a few videos on RU-vid showing leaking plastic parts on the Worcesters so that's put me off them a bit.
I have never taken the boiler of the wall for a prv. I have filmed it a couple of times but not sure I want to put it out. I do it 3 different ways. depends on the location.
They changed this part. Then when i use the hot water, the pressure is shaking for 2 minutes between 1.40 bar and 1.60 bar. It goes up and down. Is that normal? Or the new part is broken? Or something else is broken?
Hi Heating Geek, when servicing the Worcester boilers, they seem to collect much more sediment in the condensate traps/heat exchanger sumps. Especially the CDI’s. All glowworm,Vailliants and most others don’t seem to have no way near as much, do you know why???
Any ally heat exchanger will collect the ally oxide in the sump/trap. The worse the combustion the more you see it. (I Think) Check the ratios on them properly and you should notice a pattern.
Great video, I've got to say the Worcester's seam like a pile of shite. How long do they typically last before all the plastic parts start cracking ? I clocked the yellow paint marks on the spanner's ( all my tools at work are marked yellow too, so I know which are mine as we have 15 sets of identical tools at work )
Great video. Quick question why did you choose to max and min boiler from the governor as opposed to the controls? I find some manufacturers are not to fond of having the burner settings changed. Your insight would be appreciated.
Negative fan air pressure test proves heat exchanger is clean and within scope so then adjustment of CO2 % on Max rate and Min rate must be carried out on the gas valve.........ONLY by qualified Gas Safe engineers who own and are qualified to use a combustion analyser!
Paul Kramer It’s not a bad idea Paul & I can’t think of any other manufacturers that recommend this?? However I’m not overly convinced it’s the best way to check a pre-gassed Burner.
@@TheDickPuller It's whats specified in the MI. I always check high/low pressure on these boilers. It doesn't take long. Incorrect commissioning of and appliance slowly kills it. Or the the people living there. Some of these appliances have never been serviced. Worcesters are overrated. I don't get many callbacks on my installs per-say. But I've changed many fans on the Jr and Si range, common occurrence.
ghostmanromeo uk 100s of fans mate. A very common problem with Whoofter Botch boilers. I hate them, they’re snake oil boilers. More & more gas engineers are seeing how poorly designed & constructed they really are!! Changing fan speeds on many boilers is not uncommon, in fact I was Commissioning Ariston boilers today & the parameters of the fan speed were checked & could be adjusted. Their Clas One range is a fantastic wee great value boiler, amazing performance & CH turn down ratio etc.
Yes. If you open this case you HAVE to check the Co2% and Ratios. Thats what the Gas regulations tell you. If something is wrong with the ratios it could be deadly in minutes.
@@HeatingGeek You could just make a dvd, sure plenty of us who watch your videos would buy them or just do training videos with clips that you already post describing common fault finding tips and tricks a sort of A/Z of problems, post them as you do now on you tube, top man keep them coming..
is it dangerous if this issue isn't resolved asap? i have the same problem and the noises sound like its ready to blow which scares me!! please can anyone let me know if this is a dangerous situation for the boiler to be in?
I'm doing this exact thing with my greenstar boiler. What should i grease the plastic manifold with before putting it back together? You've been a life saver too. Thanks for your uploads
Just grease anything that has an o ring ,it makes life so much more easier, and if you can take a photo of the push clips before you take maniflold out or you will be pissing in the wind with trying to push them in, one clip not in right and you best have your scuba diving gear with you . Good luck
Its a LED lenser. They are quite expensive tbh but I also use it when I ride my bike at night. (like tonight). They are rechargeable and very very bright,
