Thanks Nobby I was really happy how this this turned out. I will be able to use this now for all the drive pulleys I make and retro 'fit' it to older ones I've made. As always - Cheers Jim
Thanks Rob stoked that I finally got around to this and happy that its surprisingly a fairly simple operation. I made up some more different sized jigs and hobbed some more ali ad brass drive wheels yesterday afternoon. - Cheers Jim
great idea Jim iv'e hobbed a worm gear that way before many times, but never thought of its use on pulleys i will put that in the memory bank regards Kev
Hi Kev I'm really happy how well this method worked and how relatively simple it was using a tap in the 3 jaw chuck. I made up some more different sized jigs and hobbed some more ali ad brass drive wheels yesterday afternoon. - Cheers Jim
Thanks for showing this Jim, It's not a technique that I had seen before, seems to work a treat. My only suggestion would be that if you have a collet chuck hold the tap in a collet rather than a 3-jaw. Cheers, Alan.
Thanks Alan, yes I have a collet chuck and a large assorted size of chucks but its a pita to remove the chuck for such a simple operation as this. There's not much pressure at all against the tap. I made up some more different sized jigs and hobbed some more ali ad brass drive wheels yesterday afternoon. I'm really stoked to be able to now hob flywheels like Wilsesco does. Its surprisingly simple to do. Cheers Jim
Thanks, its something I've always wondered how the toy steam manufactures did it to their commercially sold drive pulleys. I'm very happy now that I am able to duplicate it. - Cheers Jim
@@Bardsbrothersrailroad Stephen a lathe will be the best thing you ever purchase, you won't know how you survived without one. It doesn't have to be a big one.
I like the idea you have however the sheaves on a pully are smooth for a reason: The sides provide a smooth surface for the belt to come in contact with. With all surfaces dry, the belt should have no problem transmitting power to or from that pulley. Any rough surface (i.e. the procedure you're applying here) will cause undue wear to belts like these. Spring belts, because they are heat treated steel, would probably wear the sheave out fairly quickly. Since we are talking model steam, to force a pulley with this much torque, I can't see a use for.
Thanks for your comment but I disagree, many toy model steam engines such as the massive line of Wilesco steam engines come from the German factory with the drive pulleys already hobbed and they supply spring belts. I've always wondered how the steam engine manufactures hobbed their flywheels and wished to be able to do it....now I know and can replicate it - Cheers Jim
@@SteamEngines Absolutely.....exactly how Wilesco does it and using a spring drive band like Wilesco sells it means that the spring coils fit each groove in the drive pulley so there will be zero slippage.....so cool seeing how this is done - Thanks Lance
