World Class Climbing Coach Kris Hampton Trained Me for 12 Weeks (Part 1)

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I worked with a world-class climbing coach, Kris Hampton from @PowerCompanyClimbing, for 12 weeks, part 1!
Work with Kris: bit.ly/powerco...
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Опубликовано:

28 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 109

@PowerCompanyClimbing 2 года назад

Great work! Psyched to see that kind of progress! Always good to see someone work hard toward their goals. Let's get to work on those boulders now!

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Thanks again, Kris! I really appreciate having the opportunity to work with you!

@aaworkout63 2 года назад

I made a Pushup Challenge that you can try. Check it on my channel.

@danielballer9043 2 года назад

Always quality content from this guy, most i have learned from a bouldering channel, keep it up.

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Appreciate the kind words!

@AntonFomenko 2 года назад

Finally someone stopped blaming hangboard in all finger injuries! Great video bro!🔥🤘 road to v8

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Thanks Anton, I really hope I can hit v8 one day!

@quarq111 2 года назад

I really am cheering for you, as I can relate to your struggles and finger injuries very well. Learning a lot through your journey and also enjoying your content 🙂 Please keep it up! Having this first hand experience from a fellow "average" climber is so much more relatable to me than most other videos from super strong climbers

@frictitiousclimbing4991 2 года назад

Always was going to come back stronger! Glad to see you back at it and great video!

@arjen6782 2 года назад

Love your guys products! The doorway mount has had such a massive impact on my climbing training at home :)

@frictitiousclimbing4991 2 года назад

@@arjen6782 Thanks! That means a lot and we love to hear it!

@AdamCulp 2 года назад

Thanks, great questions I've always wanted to ask in the interview.

@Sergio-zc5ul 2 года назад

Nice video. I've been hangboarding for the past few months and I can say it really helps increasing finger strength. I went from hanging with extra 14% to 32% of my BD in 3 months. I have to say I've not been able to climb any higher grade but, in my case, that's a clear sign that I need to work on my technique a lot more!

@martinr113 2 года назад

I found that just hangboarding alone did not do much for my climbing, probably because you're never pulling yourself up or trying to go for another hold on the hangboard. I trained on the hangboard over 6 months of lockdown, and even though my hangboard numbers increased quite a lot, I came out weaker and could not do my old moonboard projects. For me, training on the campusboard on smaller rungs has done a lot more in terms of climbing-specific finger strength than the hangboard ever has

@Rainbowstunting 2 года назад

@@martinr113 if you have a hangboard and no campusboard, or just want to train at home, you can always try to do some rate of force development exercises. Like 10 reps of going from zero power applied to (close to) maximum force applied for a short amount of time. It's a bit like sticking a hold from a (semi-)dynamic move which mimics the campusboard a tiny bit. You can check Dave MacLeod's latest video on his Lattice assessment for a bit more information. I've used the exercise for finger rehab in a later stage of the recovery and my finger strength developed more quickly than with only regular hangboarding. A campusboard would be much more suitable though like you mentioned but just in case you ever find yourself without one :P

@martinr113 2 года назад

@@Rainbowstunting Thanks for the suggestion, let's hope it won't be necessary, but in case it will I'll certainly give it a try

@IndividualName 2 года назад

As an optimist: congrats on your life changing event!

@derekchen5749 2 года назад

Awesome video! Congrats on the gains, keep them coming! You got V7 in no time 💪

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Thanks again for the great help, Derek!

@ratznefumel 2 года назад

Casualy mentioned life changing event. Didn't inform what it was. I like this guy :)

@koalamama2 2 года назад

I have a guess from the smile and the tiny corner of what looks like a baby blanket!

@AmirNickname 2 года назад

PCC also has great movement drills and a kettlebells for climbers workout that I highly recommend! You score a lot higher than me on every single metric, but judging by the way you climb I think there's a good chance you have a lack of stability in your joints. Kettlebells (or alternatively, rings) could be a great way to work on that, and as a result your strength will translate much more into climbing. Have fun progressing! I hope you enjoy the journey :)

@redakye 2 года назад

I've thought the same as someone who's a fan of the channel

@flip_lange 2 года назад

really good progress! I wish I could increase finger stength like that lol... I don't know if anybody has mentioned it yet, but I noticed that your form during the re-test hangs was quite poor. you can see that you were swinging so much during the repeaters, because that little stool you used was not placed directly underneath the hangboard. This makes hanging sooooooo much harder! especially during max effort testing this can make a huge difference. What I'm trying to say is, you're probably even stronger than your test results ;)

@Michael-zz8yx 2 года назад

Totally!

@larathompson1981 2 года назад

Thanks Kris for sharing the Q&A! Impressive results you got out of geek climber. I get no commision but I have to second the endorsement of the no-screws mount system from frictitious: second apartment with it and it's still the best solution to mount a hangboard :)

@zjulius1273 2 года назад

Great video! So good to see you making good progress again!

@Katie_Mayo 2 года назад

This is awesome! good q&a and helpful info!

@fredericp64 2 года назад

Congrats on the progress !!

@MrMartin627 2 года назад

I personally believe being too strong in certain areas can be detrimental to your progression as a climber. Why? Simple 1) your body will move in the way that is most advantageous to it. It's lazy in movement. Which means if you are lat/arm dominant, you will use those muscles for movements other muscles are better for, had you trained them to the same extend. Because of that, you also won't climb with the right body positions / movements which will make harder routes impossible. 2) By doing (1) you will not create the mind-body connection needed for your body to learn how to move in the most advanteous way and how to use/address certain muscle groups My personal experience is that I plateaud on 6B/6C because I was too strong, never used my legs or opened my hips, and had bad posture whilst climbing. After becoming weaker due to not training so much, and focusing on my body imbalances, and then becoming stronger again I managed to transition to 7A/7B. I recommend warming up with lunges, step-ups, hip openers and basically anything you're 'not good at'

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Really interesting perspective, and I can see myself potentially falling into this... I guess I need to be extra mindful when I climb and try to focus on body positions and movements more.

@pavelbelik6174 2 года назад

@@GeekClimber From what I have seen you definitely fall into this. It would be really beneficial for you and your subscribers to adopt that view, otherwise both you and them are asking for another injury, while not progressing.

@BeGravity4 2 года назад

Another great video

@pinchomaniac2643 2 года назад

I'm curious as to why you're choosing the chisel grip as your primary grip type. Anectdotally, dropping weight and focusing on a strict half crimp (index at 90 deg.) yielded a lot more transfer to hard lines at my local crags even though my open hand strength surpass it by far. The half crimp gave me wrist strength in a much greater range of motion which was effective for microadjustments on the rock. More open grips such as the drag or the chisel puts you in a more fixed (i.e more limited) wrist position.

@chaozzah 2 года назад

Typically, full/half crimp is more likely to injure your fingers. Especially when recovering, climbing/practicing with an open grip is recommended by many. It can also become a "bad" habit out of fright, not wanting to injure the fingers again. I climb with someone who only uses his pinky and ring fingers when climbing pockets because he really injured his index/middle fingers once. Obviously they will never get as strong, but by simple virtue of continuing, they are now as strong as the other fingers were pre injury. In the end, I think it's best if you can do whatever is applicable for the situation.

@Rainbowstunting 2 года назад

Just spitballing here, but could it be that you suddenly progressed more at your local crag because you started training a weakness that you may have neglected? As opposed to it being superior grip type. The wrist position makes a lot of sense though, never thought of it like that.

@SnowmansApartment Год назад

having injured my wrists and fingers constantly the past 4 years i‘m actually in the same boat as you, pulling about 200% bw and doing about 25 reps of pull ups easily, also front levers.., but having super weak fingers comparably. I hope to get past that injury cycle in 2023 and finally improve at climbing again. Thanks for the motivation=)

@scoobtoober2975 Год назад

What's your diet like. Normal. Standard American. Low carb high fat? just curious if that could help. What food do you eat a lot of or avoid.

@SnowmansApartment Год назад

@@scoobtoober2975 i think my diet was always bad the last few years because i don‘t really enjoy eating. That means i sometimes forget to eat all together and have to get a bunch of calories at the end of the day. I think that explained a lot of the problem, because when i worked on my diet last year, i experienced a huge increase in strength. Unfortunately i still keep getting injured and sick, but i think thats just my body being weak in some ways and too strong in others. So while muscle wise climbing certain grades feels easy, it‘s way past the limit for my tendons and ligaments, which results in a bunch of injuries whenever i climb. My plan is to get into climbing very slowly(very low grades) to get all the structures to adapt to the stress. Meanwhile i will work on technique and conditioning for stability and injury prevention..

@totalmetaljacket789 Год назад

@@SnowmansApartment What honestly helped me finally heal my injuries was starting my session with super light hangboarding. I do a 5, 6, 7, and 8+ hang on the best edge.

@TheXeeman 2 года назад

LOL at the beginning I thought GeekClimber had long earrings , turns out they were just handles of the cabinets behind him xD looked good though

@invisalign5640 2 года назад

thanks a lot

@davidfreel1451 2 года назад

I really like your output and would like to see you even more accomplished. Check out Paul Twyman's channel, his approach is based on direct awareness ( IN THE MOMENT ) , I studied physics and understand your approach perfectly. You are however missing out on a lot. For example Paul broke down the entry to the planch very coherently, shame you missed it. All the best and please don't misunderstand me, I am a fan and am cheering you on !

@JM-qu5sc 2 года назад

Nice improvements!

@TheValinov 2 года назад

duuuuuuude!!! what did magnus tell you? chalk up and shirt off for that juice V7 top hold. easiest improve of your life. gets you in v8-9 range.

@alexandrelapalme1943 2 года назад

On the subject of when someone should start hangboarding. I don't think that the hangboard is dangerous in itself. I think the danger is to get strong very quickly and then injure yourself while climbing with poor technique. It applies to beginners who would benefit a lot more from just climbing and improving technique than from hangboarding and becoming stronger faster. At least this is what I think the debate is all about.

@alexgalays910 2 года назад

That's one of the reasons. Another reason is when you underestimate how much extra recovery your hangboarding requires (after all, it seems like it's so little work!) and you just add it to your regular schedule with little changes and suddenly you are way over you maximum recoverable volume and you get injuries all the time.

@qweasd9153 2 года назад

Interesting results. I have similar stats on max hangs (~140% BW) and i constantly send v7 on moonboard, also sent a couple v8 recently. I think you are alrdy able to climb the grades you wish, just need a bit more confidence.

@Gavallier 2 года назад

Ye but moonboard training requires a lot more than pulling strength and finger strength. Explosive power and finger recruitment are definitely up there, and if you have been training on the mb for a while those two qualities are probably pretty advanced for you.

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

I remember there are already micro crimps being included in the v7s on moonboard, and those felt impossible to held onto to me. It's so hard for me to imagine you only have similar stats as I do for the max hangs.

@samyang0126 2 года назад

Where to buy the hand board ?

@聰明仔-v1l 2 года назад

the edge of max rounds of 7-sec hang 3-sec rest is also 20mm for testing?

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Yes, correct, all 20mm.

@scytaletleilax 2 года назад

The true question is: what to hang on the hangboard when your are beginner and you can only hang on jug, don't think hang on jug is usefull... I think it's better to climb until you can hang on 30 mm

@Gavallier 2 года назад

Climb until you can do 10 sec on 20mm unless you have some kind of assistance system. Doing hangs on more than 20 mill is not so useful, as its more than one pad

@konradfischer8629 2 года назад

Are you able to hang on towel with only one hand for one minute?

@bullydungeon9631 2 года назад

I'm gonna copy you I think I'll be hard stuck at v4 without hang boarding

@andrewkendig5353 2 года назад

The charts shown around 1:33 do these correspond to indoor or outdoor grades?

@Lumi_nance Год назад

There is only one V scale

@grantnorman1854 2 года назад

The calculations for hangboarding aren't totally right! Two hands separately are stronger than two hands together! Think of weighted pullups. Most people who can do a one arm pullup can do a weighted pullup with +75% bodyweight, rather than +100%!

@roman4692 2 года назад

don't you think most of your "new" strength came from regaining your privious strength/level (so to say like muscle memory). i mean you relearned to load your fingers and trust them, but not actually gain new strength. But nevertheless very impressive and congrats. I don't want to sound harsh in any way but people who were in this range maybe know what i mean if they stopped climbing (or training hard) for a while and get back into it.

@RedPanda915 2 года назад

You're probably correct. Increasing his finger strength by that much in 6 weeks is pretty insane especially for someone who has been climbing for years

@flip_lange 2 года назад

yes this is a really good point. This is probably what his pre-injury finger stength used to be plus a little extra maybe ;)

@roman4692 2 года назад

@@flip_lange yeah that's what i was thinking, but nevertheless nice work gaining back old strenght and a little extra in 6 weeks safely and most importantly comfortable (so without any sign of tweaks in his fingers again) is nice and most climbers can hope for (if the suffered from a finger injury).

@flip_lange 2 года назад

@@roman4692 dude that was exactly what i thought! I have a A2 pulley strain right now and of course I'm worried about how long it will take before my fingers are back to pre-injury strength, but this gives me hope haha 6 weeks is nothing ;)

@Biceps_Mou 2 года назад

Thanks @@roman4692 - I missed the part about his training plan duration being 6 weeks and that would have been my question, as it did seem very impressive gains - did he say 6 weeks somewhere in the video?

@VictorZepeda22 2 года назад

Don't call it a comeback ✊🏽

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Why not?

@VictorZepeda22 2 года назад

@@GeekClimber quote from a song nvm 🙃

@pavelbelik6174 2 года назад

This is really bad and dangerous content you put up here, creating an idea that climbing is mainly determined by your pulups or finger strength. You are quite likely getting injured again with this attitude. It wasn't fate you got finger injury two times. It was exactly this kind of atitude. It is baffling to me how you call yourself "geek climber" when you show the exact opposite. You focus on upper body training without a deeper dive into the physiology, motor skills, technique, etc. I realize I am really harsh on you here but you really need to change this perception, otherwise you and your subscribers will keep getting injured.

@BigDickMark 2 года назад

Is Kris's data for the 4 benchmark exercises freely available? I would like to see where I benchmark place. If not, do you know of an open source?

@BigDickMark 2 года назад

Did you compete in the Avacado Cup?

@flowrida1138 2 года назад

Congrats on the gains! And even more importantly... Congrats on the baby!! If I'm guessing right 😉

@TehReezoN 2 года назад

Dude, amazing video! Thanks for all the info and the details, it's always awesome to see how you care about helping other climbers in their journey.

@jonkrause6714 2 года назад

Great video and congrats on your progression. Really liked the objective view presented by Chris and openness of mixed view points. I like the idea of 20mm edge with weight and not going down in size. This gives me more motivation to try hang board - for real. 🙏🤘

@manoloippen4938 2 года назад

yeah, man. Run the Jewels Album in the background. Word!

@jt_climbing 2 года назад

"here i am making another come back again" - me every season...

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

😆😆

@ejl74 2 года назад

Kris is an awesome human! His podcast is incredible and lots of fun.

@daltonwiggins8302 2 года назад

Hey Jason! Really cool video! I was wondering if you did these measurements with or without chalk, as I feel like the difference would be interesting to see! Also, it was awesome meeting you on Sunday even if it was just to say hi lol. Hope you’re doing well :)

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Awesome meeting you on Sunday, too!

@pieternel6279 2 года назад

I would love to see you climbing outdoors!

@danielafkhami1856 2 года назад

What happened to your planch training???????

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Training it indirectly with the bent arm press handstand at the moment. I think I am almost there!

@immersediguana2326 Год назад

How is it he still looks so skinny despite all his training???

@dylancooper498 5 месяцев назад

looking forward to part 2??

@johnwesely 2 года назад

Glad to finally see coach on the program.

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Kris is such a great coach!

@wilsonfisher5011 2 года назад

Casual life-changing event ain't stopping the Geek Climber forever WOOOOOOOOOOOO

@felipe2fp 2 года назад

I'm 39, and actually I'm in the same situation, there are two years that I have constant injuruies when I climb near v6. Moonboard just take me away 6 months of my life. I really would like to have a better progression, would love to reach 5.14 sport/v10 at my 50yo tbh

@Tralfalmadorian 2 года назад

Congratulations on the life changing event as well!!!! Will you make a second youtube channel about it?

@ivancsoisti 2 года назад

Buy a climbro hangboard.

@n1909-t4q 2 года назад

Congrats on becoming a dad!

@alejandrochavelas8669 2 года назад

Do you also play table tennis?

@StankyPete 2 года назад

Hangboarding isn't dangerous...finally someone agrees hahahahahaha Great video, bud!

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

Thanks Peter! I still remember who first taught me how to hangboard 😉.

@TJgamesfull7 2 года назад

Great Video

@noah4463 2 года назад

Do you know what edge size the 7:3 repeaters are supposed to be done on?

@vitarlaeda 2 года назад

Default edge for everything is 20mm.

@pavelbelik6174 2 года назад

Invest your time in hangboarding and pull-ups and you will get stronger fast, injured fast and not progress as a climber, starting over and over again from V3 because strength leaves you as quickly as you gain it. Invest your time in technique and using your body correctly and you will experience a slower but consistent progress without injuries and if you break your legs and get back after half a year, you will not have to start over again, you will soon pick up where you left off, because technique stays and lost strengt comes back easily. Therefore if you really like climbing, climb and enjoy the movement, you will be able to enjoy them till old age and make great progress. If you are interested in some quick gains, get ready to never actually climb well.

@angelorobledo1536 2 года назад

Kris had two fantastic records over his shoulder that also make up the front two records of my collection which is a strange coincidence. Future Shock by Herbie Hancock on the left and Run The Jewels 4 by Run The Jewels on the right.

@KarstenThoughts 2 года назад

That max pull-up form seems pretty suspect. Relating it to climbing you're really missing the end range where you lock off a hold and stabilize the shoulder

@3wod590 2 года назад

first!

@TaylorDorsett 2 года назад

Ssssoooo.... If youre not posting the workout... Or some type of workout.... This is just an ad for Kris Hampton? Or a 12 minute video saying, "World Class Climbing Coaches make you a better climber"?

@GeekClimber 2 года назад

You understand I can't post it because Kris's client had to pay for it, right? In order to find a middle ground, I requested Kris to do a Q&A so the video won't be just all about my numbers, and he was nice enough to do it. If you don't find my numbers interesting, you gotta at least learned something from the Q&A, right?