I have a 20A AFCI/CHAF breakers in my house. Those breakers keep tripping when I use my 11A carper cleaner, or 10A treadmill. But using my GFCI bathroom plugs or the outside GFCI plugs, it works fine. What can I do? Thanks
@@dvuemedia unfortunately I've run into a lot of problems when homeowners call me and tell me their afci Breakers are tripping due to heavier house appliances. On a normal GFCI breaker it doesn't trip as much but for some reason the afci technology that's monitoring the sine wave of the current passing through it gets distorted when heavier equipment is in use. Best bet is to make sure no other appliances are on that circuit when you're running your vacuum or try to have it plugged in a different location
@@obertosiciliano1243, I tried using different outlets, same issue , I have to use GFCI outlets. I probably need some kind of "slow blow" fuse, if one exists.
If the video was over 10 minutes long I'd agree, but if anyone goes to do electrical work without finishing a 3 minute video about it I'd call that good ol' natural selection
With the amount of misinformation on RU-vid, I seriously thought this was going to be a dangerous video. I've been an electrician for 16 years and thought I was going to have to put a comment to correct the video. I'm glad to see that you put so much thought and information into this video, thank you for not spreading dangerous claims.
One of the reasons I always just use the same 20A rated wires even on 15A circuits. Sure it costs a bit more, but a few times have had the need to repurpose the runs. So comes in helpful.
Yeah, but it can also cause confusion for some people yet I have some HUGE wires on my house in some places in a few 15A lines. They are round and not flat about 3/4" round. No idea why?
Very much the same for automotive wiring. Installing a larger-than-rated fuse causes all sorts of problems, up to and including fire. An automatiç circuit breaker, (i. e. certain power accessories) can be even more dangerous. Do yourselves a favor: don't go above the fuse rated for the circuit.
@@WilliamHollinger2019 Something popped that fuse. Could be old age (yes, they do weaken after multiple duty cycles), could be corrosion, or it could be drawing too many amps/mechanical wear. Check your wiring, make sure you haven't burned anything. Check for corrosion on the battery terminals and any connections in the circuit. Ensure you have no missed or bad connections. REMEMBER: simple and stupid first, THEN dig deeper.
I think it's important to point out the consequences of undersized wires - if you overload a wire buried within your wall, they WILL overheat and can cause fire INSIDE your wall! Think about where the wires run through the studs all throughout your house. It's often catastrophic, and even if it's fit your your purpose for a transient load, it's just a matter of time before someone hooks a long-term overload to the circuit.
@@butchtaylor5086 For an exact answer, you can measure the circuit resistance (with the right test equipment), but you would still need to know the length of the wire to determine if the heat dissipated over the surface area exceeds the wire insulation rating. But a much simpler test that would identify egregious problems would be to place a brief known high-current load onto the circuit, then measure the voltage with a meter before and after turning on the load. I can't give you voltage drop figures off the top of my head but there is probably information on the internet that can guide you
At first I was scared, but after watching the video I feel relieved. Best advice, have electrical circuits installed by professionals. DIY electrical is nothing to mess with. Serious and life threatening problems can still occur years down the line.
Some projects are OK if you feel comfortable and many of my videos are to help people understand what a job entails. This one is such a common request but just too complicated for an upgrade anyway
I have ran wire but only to add in additional sockets. One easy project was adding boxes to supply LED lights for the attic. Just ran a line from the garage opener junction box to a switch and then from there to three more junction boxes. I have a second switch to like above the garage. Since it is rambler access it all in the open. Running wire down into a cabinet to power wine cooler was a much smaller but slower project. In general, one you get to wiring you better know all the rules. I have a 30A line I want installed for a generator. I might hire someone for that. I need to determine the location first. Something even worse would be running underground lines for a shed. You have to trench, I would lay conduit even though not required where I live since 18" in the minimal depth.
Totally. Most people don’t realize that over current protective devices on branch circuits must comply with UL489 and are sized to only protect conductors. Motor circuits are an exception. Devices and appliances can be protected locally with supplemental protection per UL 1077.
Could it be possible that an older house already had been upgraded from 10 to 15 amps without upgrading the wires - if so, that would be a huge danger for now replacing the 15 amp with the 20 amp. So, is it best to confirm wiring capacity prior to replacing circuit breakers? Just a thought. Thank you!
For older homes you always want to have a pro check your wire sizes and breakers to be sure. Sometimes older homes are too bad because they may have much fewer connection points, outlets, etc to check so it can be verified with less effort. I lived in a house that still had knob and tube wiring so I know that older homes can be different for sure.
Love the fact you mentioned there is the possibility of 14 gauge wiring spliced in somewhere, thus the weakest link determines the overall circuit rating. Another possibility is sometimes 12 or even 10 gauge is used for 15 amp circuits, where there is a long run from the panel, typically over 100 feet or so and the wire is oversized, to keep voltage drop at the far end under control, this sometimes happens in very large homes, or when there's an addition. However, if there are more than a couple of circuits involved it will often be more cost effective in material and labor to install a subpanel near the remote location, than to oversize all of the circuits.
I have actually see in done. It was in a garage while I had it inspected. It failed on a lot of issues. They spliced in 14 AWG on a 20A circuit breaker. Very obvious since that was was not even covered.
What about the reverse of this video remove a 20 amp breaker and replace it with a 15 amp breaker ? reason is the 30 year old 220 Volt air conditioner had a 20 amp the new air conditioner calls for a 15 amp breaker
Thanks for the information. AS a keen Observer, of history, here is an analysis of ' infrastructure '. All types. Over the last 100 years, infrastructure was designed, constructed according to the needs / inventions of people, and their hamlets, towns, cities, Large cities. Today, 3 generations or so later, ALL INFRASTRUCTURE IS TOO SMALL, FOR todays' needs : transportation especially, and also POWER. Roads, bridges, railway crossings, etc . ALL not designed, for todays' modern vehicles. Same goes for todays' NEED FOR POWER. Advice = anyone constructing a modern house, should wire it with 12 GAUGE wire, (better insulation,on it too) throughout. And, use 20 amp breakers, THROUGHOUT, BOTH house and garage , etc. ....anyway, good luck, all.
I thought the current code prevented changing the wire mid circuit, meaning that a circuit that uses both 12 and 14 gauge wouldn't be compliant. Of course, even if I'm right, that's no guarantee that your house was actually wired that way so you need to verify.
Yes but exactly what you said, sometimes it will just happen anyway especially if the person expected to only see the minimum wire size for the circuit.
can i ask why the wires connetced to the electric breaker look so thin but some house items have cables that are SO thick that plug into the wall that's what gets me worried about opening up my Breaker you should also make a short video about that
The unit the ypu may be plugging into wall has to be flexible and rated for constant flexing and much more abuse than a solid copper wire in a wall that's stapled so it never moves. Most cords to appliances are stranded wire that's flexible which is larger also than solid copper to care dame load. Appliances also have to be UL tested and that makes them go to a level that wiring in your home doesn't need to meet because its completely different application. Hence the over built cable on plug in devices. It's WAY more than it should need to be but because its a moving and handled constantly, electric cable, that's what it should be especially for insurance. And that's a good thing.
When you think to upgrade your breaker to a higher amperage the very important action is to make sure all the components of the circuit (starting with new breaker, continuing with the wiring, and ending with the switch/outlet and the device your are going to plug in) supports the new amperage. If any of the components are not designed for a higher amperage - it should be changed in the same time the breaker is upgraded or the upgrade project should be abandoned. Period.
I was hoping you were about to bring up some neat gadget that could tone or test the wire to make sure it's 12 guage. Like those super expensive ethernet testers. Oh well.
Best advice - don’t. I’d like to add, when you are standing in front of a live panel, wear safety glasses and set a good example. Once your hands are in the box main should be off, and verified, or you should be wearing at minimum ASTM Class 0 gloves with protective leather.
MC cable, run on the wall. Thats quite easy and not too expensive. Then metal boxes and conduit around your garage. Not that hard. That's what I'd recommend if you wanna try it yourself.
12 Ga wire is yellow unless it is old then it may still be white. If your wire is white, look closely at the writing on the wire itself. In most cases it should say what gauge it is and how many conductors it has. For example it may say '"12/2" which means it is 12ga wire with 2 conductors and a ground wire. The two conductors (wires) are usually one black and one white. The ground wire is usually either green or bare copper.
I figured all of that out before you explained, because of the education I have been giving myself. The sad thing is here in Utah you have to get a job in order to get an apprentice electrician license, but nobody will hire me, because I don't have a license, so I can't figure out how to become an electrician.
Sometimes a 15 amp breaker is replaced with a 20 amp (or higher, yikes) breaker to prevent an overloaded circuit from repeatedly tripping the breaker, often because it's an older property and there's not enough circuits to power a 21st century lifestyle. But this dangerous band aid repair is far more likely to occur with a fuse panel, since it's obviously easier to unscrew a 15 amp fuse and screw in a 20. Another danger specific to fuse panels, it's possible to have power with blown fuses, by placing aluminum foil or a penny in the fuse sockets. Cartridge fuses can be bypassed by driving a nail through the fuse, wrapping in aluminum foil, or by using a piece of metal conduit or a copper pipe. Insurance companies are very nervous about fuse panels and might refuse to issue homeowners insurance until the panel is replaced. That's why it's very unusual for a home to have an old fuse panel still in service.
I would never attempt to work on any electrical in my house after this video. Thank god my neighbor is an electrician. This was very helpful you explained yourself well. 👍
Totally fine to MASSIVELY undersize wire vs. breaker! It works the best when using 10a wire and a 50a breaker!! Smelling oxidation or other burning smells will put hair on your chest. Do not listen to me, i am freakin' kidding.
Yes you are correct. He should have shown/demostrated a "Best Practice" to wear Class 00 gloves with leathers while working on an energized 220V Panel.
Loved the title lol I have anxiety just flipping a tripped switch in that box! I need this done immediately but I ain’t gonna do it. My box is a hot mess
In the event of a short circuit, a 15 or 20 amp CB will trip instantly with the wire suffering no damage. Continous load, however is a whole different ballgame.
Only work I have done was add a power monitor. Still a big scary when adding power to run it. Year ago, no way would I have but I finally know enough to do that.
Glad I watched this video. I was researching on how I can upgrade the circuit myself for a microwave. After seeing this, no thanks. I will hire a pro. Thanks for the clear education.
With the current EV revolution we are now in a lot of guys will be wiring a DIY 50A-240vac outlet to charge their new EV at home like I did. Home Depot has all the parts. !
I heard some electrical sounds after flipping a light switch a year or two ago, a bit after I moved into my new older house. So, I turned off the power and opened up the switch faceplate. Sure enough, the grounding wire was not connected to the switch and the hot and neutral wires were connected loosely enough. The switch itself was rather old. So, I went to the store to pick one up. Installed it, turned the power back on and it's been lighting up the room ever since with no electrical sounds. Another switch didn't even have a grounding wire. Whether it was the previous DIY homeowner or an incompetent and/or lazy electrician, I know to make damn sure I know what I'm doing, unless I want to die from a fire in my house while I'm sleeping. Thanks, but no thanks to the aforementioned people. I'm starting to think I should move to electrical work. Any businesses looking for a newbie willing to learn from a qualified and experienced electrician?
When the original wire is put in the house, why not use all 12g wire(for the 15amp and 20amp)? So, a 15amp to 20amp could be upgraded easily on any breaker?
my brother who was an electrician before going into the army noticed my basement subpanel was full of 20 amp breakers on 14 ga wire, something my home inspector missed. I quickly swapped it all out to 15 amp breakers.
@SilverCymbal I have a question - I honestly want to re-route all the wire in my house it is a mess but in doing so I want to upgrade the circuit from a 10amp to a 20amp circuit... In doing so I know I need to upgrade all electrical outlets and wire so appropriately I would need a 20amp breaker, 12 gauge wire etc. I also want to use electrical conduit I know this is pricy as heck but if you see my house it is a freaking mess in the attic from who ever did the install or routes for the house its like a web of what the hell happened ( some outlets are on the same circuit ex: Kitchen is connected to the master bedroom someone screwed that up). But does this effect what ever I plug into that circuit say a lamp or a space heater does this cause long term damage to my equipment? (this has been a concern for me and I cannot find good solid answers... Lets just say that I have successfully upgraded all I needed to from 10 amp to 20amp does 20 amps hurt what I am plugging into that circuit?
This is the modern day hack of swapping higher amperage edison fuses. They came out with type S fuses to combat this. Although it's a little more involved than changing a fuse, this is proof that a competent, but naive DIYer can swap to a higher amperage breaker and connect it to undersized wiring.
I just found out that I can no longer find circuit breakers for my antique Federal Pacific stab-lock breaker panel -- gonna have to replace the whole box next week.
That's difficult when that happens. My two favorites are the Square D Q0 line amzn.to/3Bd7Deb for a little more money and their Home Line is unbeatable.amzn.to/3U423Dt
I need to downgrade a circuit for now I'm gonna have to rewire the while house before to long....the wires are 14 gauge but someone put them on a 20 amp and they put 15 amp plugin connections and I've noticed that one of them is burnt so I'm gonna have to replace the 20 amp circuit breaker for now until i do a full rewire on 12 gauge...
Good informative vid but not so sure the delivery was good. Ur delivery could actually be hazardous. If someone thinks they know/ or thinks they can just switch the circuit but they want to double check so they get on youtube looking to see what info they can find and if they came across ur vid and see that ur saying yep can jus switch the 15 to a 20 jus undo this wire n this wire etc and they happen to not watch the whole vid well then u jus confirmed their incorrect belief which will lead to a hazard. I mean thats the extact opposite of what u were gon for
May I replace a 15 amp receptacle with a 20 amp receptacle since the wiring for this receptacle is connected to a 20 amp circuit breaker? My 1500W space heater keeps tripping the circuit breaker when I connect it to this 15 amp receptacle.
As an electrician, the first minute of this video was painful to watch, even though I knew you were going to make the correct point, it was painful to listen to the wrong thinking!
Quality video! okay , well lets say my search was to learn how to know what's needed to be able to update the circuit (if needed) , does anyone have that information. I totally get the cautionary note that it's best to get an electrician ,that is of course if i'm somewhere where there is an electrician, However I'm not. and obviously an electrician learns this from information that he or she has been able to read , hear or watch in the first place.
20 amp should be standard 15 amp is a joke electricians that put 15 amp in are cheap a holes my father never put a 15 amp in a house all talked the home owner in to 20 amp
if im plugging the cord in i dont know why you put it in that way. bought the house lost the shoes or something ? every outlet in my house 1 at a time.
I ended up having to downsize a breaker from 20 amp to 15 amp once because I discovered a place where a previous resident ran a new receptacle using 14awg. Thankfully that particular circuit runs exclusively in the unfinished part of my basement and garage, so I was able to visually track down every single bit of wire on it. I could have just re-run this one particular run and stuck with the 20 amp, and maybe one day I will, but for now I'm glad I caught that. The other fun in my house is that all of the 15 amp circuits were run with copper-clad aluminum and the NM is old enough that the markings have faded. So to know what ampacity is ok for any given run of wire, I have to pop open a box, remove wire nuts, and inspect the wire. It's... great.
I received a new window air conditioner and was told its 15amp sooo I only swapped out the actual plugs and luckily never turned it on because as soon as I switched over the wires poof 💨 no current running through the back wall of the garage now! Is it safe to assume I need to replace the 15amp breaker for a 20amp breaker now? Also the rest of the garages outlets have power but I definitely blew that 15amp! I’m not a electrician but obviously 🙄 I’m just living my lucky life 😅moment by moment 😊
Might need more because ACs amp rating is their running amps but when the compressor turns on they draw much more for a split second. For example a 13amp AC can draw as much as 15-20 amps during the initial surge.
