Can 15 Amp Outlets Be Used On A 20 Amp Circuit Breaker 

the simple answer is that a 15 amp device with the proper plug type installed can't draw enough amps to overload the circuit. Remember the breaker is there to protect the wiring within the building not the device plugged into the outlet.

At 1:54 a few lines in the book above your finger it says "A duplex receptacle (with a space for two plugs) counts as two receptacles". This is an important detail for clarity that some viewers may not realize.

I agree with what you said. I only use commercial grade receptacles, mostly for the backwiring capability, but they also tend to have a larger plug cycle life.

When looking at the 15 vs 20 amp internals at 5:27 you can see that the hot side on the 20 amp is the same as both the hot and neutral on the 15 amp. The part that was removed from the previous model 15 amp would really only come into play when the connection is a horizonal prong. Since this isn't possible with a 15 amp receptacle, the part was probably only there so that both could be manufactured on the same line.

Perfect timing. Its has been hard finding a video that references this info about outlets. Thanks bro!!

🇨🇦 Electrician weighing in: I’ve always used the commercial spec grade outlets in kitchen areas, same with back when we used to do split receptacles. Lower resistance connection points which results in less heat especially for the heavy counter top loads running at or near 1500W. Well worth the extra $ in terms of user experience, safety and device longevity.

to make things perfectly clear, receptalces have two ratings: they have a device rating and they have a feed-through rating. nearly all receptacles with a 15 amp device rating have a 20 amp feed through rating. the ones that don't are the ones that don't have screw terminals. those shouldn't be used on a 20 amp circuit, and more conscientious electricians believe they shouldn't be used at all.

Additional information: As stated, you can put 15A outlets on a 20A circuit provided there's more than one outlet on that circuit. The code also specifically states that the double outlets, such as the ones he was taking apart, count as 2, so they count as more than one outlet. The outlets that count as only 1 outlet are the round ones with only a single set of holes in them and no other outlets on the circuit. This is usually only done on a dedicated outlet for a high amperage device, such as a window air conditioner or a large air compressor.

I love your outlet videos. They helped me pick out the best (at least at the time) USB-C outlets that I still use in my living room and bedroom for my devices.

Perfect timing! A house we’re looking to buy has this exact scenario. Thanks for the info!

You really hit the nail on the head with this video. As a general rule, it is a waste of money to purchase 20-amp receptacles versus heavy duty 15-amp versions, especially given the innards are identical. The highest amperage device i have found is hair dryers, which are rated at 1875 watts. Divide that by the 125 volt nominal rating of receptacles and you get 15 amps. It's almost like the manufacturers designed the hair dryer to be at the maximum rating of a 15-amp receptacle. As you showed, the reason NEMA specifies the perpendicular grounded terminal for 20-amp attachment plugs is so they can only be used on receptacles on 20-amp circuits and not potentially overload a 15-amp circuit. An important point to make is that circuit breakers only protect the wiring, not the devices in use on the circuit. Ideally, all residential circuits would be wired with 12 awg wiring with 20-amp breakers, therefore making capacity moot. However, 12 awg wiring costs 50٪ more, uses more material, and is harder to work with than 14 awg. So, we're left with the compromise of 15 and 20-amp receptacles. Related to this, I've learned it's better to wire dedicated circuits with 14 awg wiring when the device is rated 1440 watts or less, especially disposals, dishwashers, and air handlers. I also do this for refrigerators and microwaves/hoods when the inspector permits it (some think all kitchen circuits must be 20-amps, not just the two small appliance circuits mentioned in Code.) Why spend 50% more on wiring for literally no benefit?

Back when I was a kid, My Grandma had Time Life Books for the basics of different trades. I read the electrical cover to cover, multiple times. Then I would ride my bike to the library and get all I could find about electrical.

One thing you failed to mention is that all of the commercial grade outlets you featured have a bonding jumper that holds the bottom screw in place. This is very handy if you use or encounter metal boxes because you can eliminate the need for a separate ground wire to bond the outlet with the box. Both screws on the cheap outlets are held in place with a piece of cardboard and should only be used on plastic boxes where it doesn't matter.

Great teacher! Thanks for producing this valuable information!

Another common appliance with a 120 volt 20 amp plug, is a professional grade treadmill. In the kitchen, sometimes you see then on a professional grade toaster oven or heavy duty microwave oven. It's with noting that whenever an appliance or piece of equipment comes from the factory with a 20 amp plug on It's power cord, that means it draws more than 15A and close to 20A. It will probably mention in the instruction manual that the product is for use on individual branch circuit only, and technically you are required to follow the manufacturer's instructions on any product with a UL listing or a listing from another Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) . That said, most times 20 amp receptacles are installed so the occupants can tell at a glance it's a 20 amp circuit.

I love your videos. I am now a new subscriber. I just purchased an older home that needs several upgrades. I ran across you videos that are easy to follow and very understandable. Thanks. I will hit the notified bell to see more of your videos. Again, Thanks.

I’ve found that 15 amp GFCI outlets are sensitive at the upper limit. The electrical contractor installed all 15 amp outlets with GFCI protection at an industrial facility that used pumps and power tools. I finally had to draw a picture of a 20 amp outlet, so they could install the correct outlets for my people could use power tools to do their job.

Manufactured homes that I've seen use 14 gauge wire for most of the wireing. To make things more interesting they daisy chain plug to plug with back stab 15 amp plugs. After your video I looked at one of my plugs and it had gotten hit enough that it melted the plastic in the back and the wires got hot enough that I had to cut off more than an inch just so I could strip the wire! I'm replacing ALL my plugs in the house. Have found 2 more not plugs

at one time not too long ago, kitchens counter outlets were wired with a split 15a outlet on a 15 amp circuit. I guess the rationale being that kitchen counters are prone to being overloaded with appliances. That was changed in the past 15 years or so to install 20a (non split) outlet on a 20 amp circuit. That's the most common place I've seen 20a outlets.

Thanks for the great videos! Very informative! I'm no professional by any means. However I have always done all home and appliance repairs myself. Videos like yours have been very helpful. I appreciate the time you take to produce these videos! Thanks again!

Always good content, thank you for your efforts.

If I run 12/2, I use 20A outlets. That way, I have the extra capability if needed, and it's easy to identify the circuit capacity. I can't imagine why anyone wouldn't just go with the full boat if it's available.

The 15amp. Rating is because of the nema configuration , the gauge of the conductors inside is.the same as a 20amp outlet,it's the configuration that determines the amperage.

One thing I've noticed here in Canada is that the 120 volt, 20 amp receptacles of 40 years ago could only take 20 amp appliances plugged into them (the neutral slot was horizontal). Nowadays, the 20 amp receptacles have a "T" - shaped neutral, allowing for the connection of both 15 amp and 20 amp plugs.

Good info, and you reminded me that I need to buy an updated Black & Decker guide.

My wife and I just bought a house built in 1980, and it's getting really close to us needing to upgrade our electrical package to bring everything up to code. It's old enough where none of the outlets close to water sources are GFCI when they should be. I've added one to the hall bathroom, but have yet to do the same to the kitchen, and master bathroom. We have big plans to renovate part of the house, and that would most likely cover a full plumbing gut/replacement. Once we get to that point, in about 200 yrs, we'll do most of it in one shot, lol.

Very interesting. Now I can tell the difference between a 20A receptacle and a 15A. Thanks.

Good video, I liked the outlet comparison. I have rewired quite a bit of our house, and have dropped more than a few 12/2 20 amp circuits, and have used the better quality Leviton 15 amp outlets, around $3 ea. I really do not operate anything in the house that would require commercial grade 20 amp outlets. Out in the garage, now that is a different story, commercial grade outlets there, on their own sub panel that I also installed.

Another good vid. I have not been able to find commercial grade Decora-style receptacles. I buy the ones from Eaton. They are priced like commercial grade, but don't have back-wire capability, for example. Perhaps a video teardown comparing Decora-style receptacles would interest your viewers, since that style is so popular these days.

Love your videos... I do applications for an x-ray company and our products are 20amp plugs... Even the lower energy systems (2.4kW). But we almost always have to use that little converter for small clinics and stuff. I have 3 in my bag.

5:06 The receptacle in the middle is NOT just like the 5-20 on the right, the one in the middle is using the 'T' configuration grip on BOTH sides. So even the 5-20 had some cost-cutting measures done, once they designed a grip that was only for the vertical blade.

thank you for the info i had a feeling that the house i bought had the wrong outlets for the washer and dryer they both had a 15 amp outlet and it was on a 20 amp breaker and it was the only thing on the breaker the washer and dryer have their own breakers so i was thinking that can't be safe so i upgraded them to the 20 amp outlet found your video very helpful im looking at the books now thank you for all the help

As a retired electronic and electrical eng.. Yes you can (not a biggy) circuit should break if you overload just be careful in the kitchen and bathroom. Wiring is the key also look how easy you can reset your circuit braker.

This is very good deatails thank you😄

Great info. Thank you for your video.

One seemingly minor problem with the several commercial or heavy duty grade outlets you recommend that people use instead of residential grade ones is the center nut that you install the faceplate bolt into. On all the commercial or heavy duty grade outlets I've seen, they're not very strong and if you overtighten the bolt even a little, the "tube" that the nut is attached to that secures it to the backplate of of the outlet breaks off and now there's nothing to secure that bolt. Yet for some reason they're more secure on the residential outlets I've seen. Now if you're only looking to attach a standard faceplate to the outlet then that's not a big problem, just go easy and it should be fine, just a few inch-pounds should do it. But if you're attaching an outlet extender, the sort that have 4, 5, 6 or more outlets on them and maybe some USB ports, that are often the best way to connect more than a couple of devices to mains power, then you're going to need to tighten that down some more to secure it, since they're much heavier and bulkier than faceplates, and these higher-end outlets can't seem to handle that. Any suggestions? Are there commercial or heavy duty grade outlets that can handle being tightened more than to faceplate spec? Sure, you can use a power strip instead of a plug-in outlet extender, but they're not always practical or feasible.

I love every time you open up outlets and show us the guts. I’ve been wondering since your last string of outlet videos if commercial grade 15-amp would be safe for 20-amp use. Thanks for anticipating my question and making such a great video! My practices for outlet replacement have been completely changed for the better by your videos.

Another outstanding video. Thank you Scott.

Like your Xtreme Garage shelving! Wish it was still sold!

I know a guy who put 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp breaker and 19 people were killed. They were swept away by an avalanche, but I believe it was caused by the wiring.

Great video bro. Just subscribed 👍

Great and very informative video!! Thank you!!

Excellent vid...subscribed.

Most people still misunderstand the point of the circuit breaker. It is NOT there to protect your devices or the outlet itself. You can see the outlet if it catches fire. The point of the circuit breakers is to protect the wires you can't see in the walls. Neither the wires nor the circuit breaker nor the outlet actually transmit current. The devices plugged or wired into a circuit take what they need. No more, no less. If a device only needs 15 amps it will only draw 15 amps even if plugged into a circuit capable of providing 100 amps. The circuit breaker simply limits the current that a device CAN draw to protect the wires from literally melting and catching for in your walls. That happened in my house when I was a little kid in the 80s in my parents house that still had a fuse box in the basement and sections of knob and tube circuits in the walls. Just one wire caught in the walls and the house was a total loss. We didn't lose everything but the house did have to be leveled and rebuilt.

I SAW ANOTHER OF YOUR VIDEOS EXPLAINING SOMETHING ABOUT OUTLETS AND RIGHT OF WAY I SUBSCRIBED. I LIKE THE INFORMATION RECEIVED FROM YOUR VIDEOS. I DO HAVE A PLAN FOR A FUTURE ADD ON OUTLESTS IN MY SON'S SHOP AND YOUR VIDEO INFO AS BEEN ON POINT.

Thanks for the video, sorry I missed the live ✌👍

5:13 Interesting thing about the older one is it has the sideways metal slots for 20A plugs on both sides, top and bottom.

Of course, it shouldn't be a hazard to put a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit. A 15A outlet means that you can't plug a 20A device into it, In other words unless you are deliberately trying to overload the receptacle (e.g. with power strips that have the circuit breakers defeated), the outlet will be limiting you to a 15A load. There's never a problem using a smaller load than the circuit is rated for. The only theoretical way that this could be a problem would be if the receptacle would be wired in series with a higher current load. For example, the hot line into the receptacle, and its neutral line going to the hot side of another device. This could cause more than 15A to flow through the receptacle. But that kind of wiring would massively violate code and be practically useless (because a device would have to be plugged into the receptacle for the downstream device to have any power). The way circuits are actually wired (in parallel), means that the load carried by a receptacle is not affected loads elsewhere on that circuit. So no problem.

I use 20 amp commercial rated outlets in my house. Once in, I never have changed same one again. Those cheap ones that are 15 amp rated I don't use, plus they don't hold up either over time.

Great video, thank you!

Thankyou for the book recommendation, sir! I shamefully admit I have scrolled past your channel quite a few times. Been picking away at some of your videos and I dont subscribe very often, however, earned my sub 🙏

The funny thing is I've taken apart 15 amp plugs in 20 amp plugs. There is no difference internally it really depends on the grade and quality of the plug. Commercial plugs or more expensive and are made to be used over and over.

I prefer using commercial grade receptacles as well but don't necessarily see the need for 20A receptacles throughout the house. However, it' s really tough to find Decora style commercial grade 15A receptacles that are tamper resistant as code dictates for living spaces.

5:10 that older 15 uncovered is definitely different than the new 20. That older one looks like it might be 5-20R or 5-20P ready. The horizontal is on both side.

What I see in new residential are mixed circuits, with ceiling lights sharing circuits with wall receptacles on 14 gauge wire ln long runs. Not an electrician myself, but as a renovator my clients are asking me to look at electrical problems as a side issue. Lots of arc fault breakers not playing nice with bathrooms

also read the manufacturer's labeling/instructions. Some 15A receptacles say on them "only use on 15A circuit"

The cheapest grade is perfectly fine. Just don"t used the push in back connectors, they will get hot. If you run a space heater for a while, when you unplug it, the electrical outlet will be hot. Time to take it apart and put a 3/4 loop under the screw like it should have been in the first place.

Very good explanation and helpful. Though I have a modern breaker panel (2005) for my condo, the main breaker is only 125 amps, so it would be extremely expensive for me to upgrade for an electric car for a Level 2 charger. But for me, my charging needs are minimal and I have considered instead upgrading a 15 amp style outlet that is on a 20 amp circuit in my garage to a 20 amp outlet that can handle a special adapter that Tesla has optionally available to allow their cars to charge at a 15 amp (3/4 capacity draw) instead at the usual 12 amp draw used for a 120 volt circuit. This would allow the car to charge at a 6 miles per hour recharge instead of 4 miles per hour. So, this is another scenario outside of a window AC or jackhammer that would be able to take advantage of a 20 amp outlet. In any case, even if I decide to charge at the lower default power draw, I think that upgrading to a commercial grade outlet for an EV might be wise for anyone using a 120 volt circuit.

@1:37, “...Wago nut, which you know I highly recommend...” , nice stealthy ‘plug’ for for Wago connector.

I have been upgrading to commercial outlets, makes sense they are a lot less than a Big Mac and safety first

Remember to "Fuse the wire" which basically means the wire is the limiter. Never put a fuse or outlet or anything else that has a higher amperage than the wire.

Hi there!! First thanks for enlightening me on differences with 15a 20a receptacles and the wiring types and all. Very informative Quick question tho.. so when I plug in my vacuum in certain different sockets in my mobile home and the breaker kicks power off.. does that mean I have bad wiring is present somewhere or should I just purchase a new vacuum or call an electrician? The home is quite up in age as well as the vacuum and I’ve learned a lot from this video so if I do have to call electrician I can ATLEAST sound like a mechanic ha Any advice will be appreciated

Good information 👍.

Wow, I've never known that you could tell a 15 amp receptacle from a 20 by visual inspection and I never knew why some outlets have that T-shaped hole for one prong. Thanks!

Greetings Folks - Remember, multiple receptacles include "Duplex" receptacles which are (2) receptacles on a single yoke or strap. Also, the use of the term "outlet" for the device is incorrect based on the definition of devices and outlets. The "outlet" is the point where you would install the device, such as in an "outlet" box.

A better argument is 1: don't overload and 2: those that will overload will do so on a 15A circuit just as readily so having a 20A circuit makes it more difficult to overload the wiring and makes the only "weak point" the outlet. Next consider that if you put multiple outlets you spread that load out so that someone that does not know which outlets are wired together might load up the overall circuit with more than 15A much easier where making it a 20A circuit again makes the wire and breaker better able to handle the load. Space heaters and Air conditioners are notorious for being the thing that kicks on and trips the breaker. That is why some space heaters and most air conditioners specify a single outlet circuit; not even a duplex outlet. This discussion is a classic case of overbuilding but with good reason. Remember that it is "power draw" not push, meaning that a 20A breaker does not push 20A into the circuit but rather allows that much to be drawn through it if enough is plugged in.

The circuit breaker is there to protect the wire. If you are using 12 gauge wire, it is rated for 20 amps. A 15 amp outlet will probably realistically take a 20 amp load, it is just not RATED for that (as you point out they make adapters, if the device draws 20 amps and it is a true 15 amp/14 gauge circuit the breaker should pop). The code is written the way it is because in a multi circuit the 15 amp outlet will be just fine on a 20 amp circuit. Mainly because the WIRE will handle the load.

I run 3 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge to 15 amp receptacles for my home theater and have for 20 years with zero issues. Two big powered subs, ran 4 at one point, also one big poweramp amongst other components and even driven hard for long periods never had an issue. Even with at times 20 amp power cord amps I've ran a 20amp adapter to my 15 amp receptacle with no issues. Maybe if it was a constant draw item there would be.

Appreciate the video. Very helpful. Question: A 15 amp outlet Does the top handle 15 amps. And the bottom 15amps? Or is it a toral combined 15 amps. Thanks.

A Harvest Right Freeze Dryer is required a dedicated 20 amp circuit. When I shop for an electrician, what should I ask them, and what should I watch out for? I subbed and rang that bell.

Thanks very helpful

The big problem with the converter plug is that people may use these with small gage extension cords. That can damage the tool or cause a fire when the cord heats up.

I used to deliver copiers. One day I was swapping out a machine with a 20 amp plug for another with the same. I unplugged the old copier and found they had twisted the horizontal prong to make it fit into the 15 amp outlet.

The duplex 15 amp receptacle is considered to be two, and the reason it’s okay is because each side, top and bottom can handle 15 amps, thus 30 in total, but if u get to that ampacity then your 20 amp breaker will trip. However using a receptacle that would be for single use, meaning not a duplex, would only handle 15 amps. So, that’s why single receptacles, not duplex, would need to be 20 amp rated. Hope this makes sense.

It's easier if you think about the demand rather than the capacity. A 15 amp plug (the standard with 2 blades parallel) won't ever be wired to something that wants more than 15 amps. A 20 amp plug has blades perpendicular, hence the sideways slot in the outlet.

this is all good in the US... but here in Canada due to $ difference.. a standard outlet is about $380 at Home Depot... The pro versions run around $8 each. Can get a bit costly when you need a lot of them.

I just subscribed to your channel even though I learned electrical wiring when I was in the 9th grade and I'm 70. What I learned back then is so antiquated, I desperately need upgrading myself! 🤣 Seriously though, I have really enjoyed your video's and the new information you give me. Just from this video alone, I will never buy anything but commercial grade outlets from now on. Especially since the contractor was very cheap, and used 14ga. wire instead of 12ga., and wired the house himself instead of getting an electrician to do the work back in 1988. Just back in June of this year that cost me and my wife over $2300 to have the electrical panel replaced by a professional electrical company. That fixed more problems we were having than I can count. The old panel had several breakers that were not connecting because the connection strip was burned out!

Amazing how manufacturers squeeze every last penny out of the manufacturing process by eliminating a tiny bit of metal.

Love the sound effects-- damn cicadas!

So 20amp everything, you got it 👍

3:25 "For an extra dollar or $1.50 per outlet it's worth it." I agree. What most people don't get is that $1.50 per outlet more is a 500%+ increase from 30 cents to over $2.00 per outlet for commercial grade. That adds up fast when you wire a neighborhood.

i believe they design 15-amp duplex outlets to allow 20-amp power since you could have two 10- or 12-amp devices plugged into a 15-amp duplex receptacle and gfci outlets even say 20 amp pass through since you have multiple outlets downstream all running through the gfci outlet

What I have found is 14 gauge wire and 20 amp breakers and 15 amp receptacles!! You need to highlight this problem.

So if im running a 30a single pole breaker (120v) for a network ups that uses the nema l5-30 can i put some additional 20 amp receptacles on that branch or can i only serve that one outlet?

I believe all electric boxes (used to connect devices) are called outlets or outlet boxes. The difference is you have specifically "lighting outlets" or "receptacle outlets" or others

It's odd that people who question using a 15A receptacle on a 20A line or multiple 20A receptacles on a 20A line never seem to question using multiple 15A receptacles on a 15A line, despite it happening all over their house ... the underlying concepts and restrictions remain the same: Pay attention to both single and total load.

The most common thing continuously pulling 15 or more is resistance space heaters. The microwave and big screen tv have big iñrush current spikes

UL498. Standard receps are UL tested at 150% of their rating and must hold it for 8 seconds. Hospital and commercial grade, 250% of their rating. In other words, a cheepo 15A recep must hold 22.5A in order to be rated for 15A. In addition, the link between the terminals is rated 20A, and must hold 30A for 8 seconds to be UL listed as a 15A recep. It is close to impossible to overload a 15A recep on a 20A circuit, assuming proper installation and a correctly functioning breaker or fuse.

The problem is that some people swap a 15 amp breaker for a 20 amp and replace the outlet for a 20 amp outlet. The wire is just 14 gauge and can't safely carry the extra current. This could cause a fire. If you want a 20 amp circuit, replace the wire with 12 gauge as well as the breaker and plug. You also can't run 2 x 15 amp loads on a dual 15 amp plug at the same time. Kitchen plugs are often a split plug with 2 x 15 amp circuits on 2 x 15 amp breakers with an extra hot wire. One 20 amp breaker on a double 20 amp plug will not power 2 X 15 amp loads at the same time since that would be 30 amps and the 12 gauge wire would be undersized. A 30 amp circuit requires 10 gauge wire or a split plug with an extra 12 gauge wire.

Since code allows 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit, at least the part of the outlet that transfers power through the daisy chaining must support 20A. As you found in looking at the internals, the only thing that is really 15A is the plug configuration blocks the 20A plug. Having seen an outlet that failed with sparks flying and nearly lost the building to another similar failure, the weak point seems to be the connection of the internal wiring ot the receptacle. In the cases where we had problems, they used the cheap backstabbing method in an ocean-front property prone to rust, which was a recipe for disaster. Likewise, when using the screw terminals, be sure they're really tight. (Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician; if you are and I said something wrong, please correct me.)

Seems to me that what are now called 15 amp outlets were formerly considered 20 amp outlets, & that they can physically run 20 amps with no problem. & when I wired an addtion to my home, I used #10 wire from the breaker box to the outlet anyway.

actually, the most common wiring technique uses mostly 15 amp circuits for receptacles, and then when the homeowner has trouble with the breaker tripping when they try to use their Hoover Wind Tunnel Vacuum, they ask a handyman to fix it and he bootlegs in a 20 amp breaker.

You can always breaker down relative to wire size and outlet rating. Personally I would use a 15 amp breaker with awg12 wire and 15amp outlet, regardless of the number of outlets on the circuit. Only time I use awg 14 is for a ceiling light or dedicated outlet for a refrigerator.

Your link for a 15 amp outlet Legrand actually links to a 20 amp outlet by Pass and Seymore.

See, this is why wiring can be confusing. I opted to put in a 20A outlet/receptacle for computer use. Many high wattage UPS systems use a 20A plug.

It must be different where you are. Here a fifteen amp circuit has a fifteen amp breaker. And the cabling is 14 awg so there is a big difference. I am also older so maybe codes have changed. 🤗

While I think this one 20amp and a bunch of 15amp receptacles is silly, I will say that I have a friend who 6000 sq ft house had been outfitted with cheap 15amp residential grade receptacles. They had been having weird flickering and periodically smelled a burning smell and it turned out that several of the receptacles in the basement had overheated and melted, but not tripped a breaker. The receptacles (one where a space heater was plugged in) was melted and charred on the back and it had heated up and melted about a foot 12 gauge Romex (the sheathing was discolored and no longer flat and the wire insulation was brittle) in the wall. Additionally the circuit breaker had been damaged from the constant over-current and in-series arcing (not hot to neutral but hot on/off/on/off). To the point that yes, better grade receptacles should be used in homes and really the 2017 code for AFCI breakers would have prevented this near house fire.

The issue I run into is having an electric (oil) heater on a circuit, and also on it is a treadmill. Always pops the breaker - Set up as 15 amp, covering all outlets in the basement. Must be 15 plugs, no others under heavy load. I warn my family to turn off the heater before starting treadmill, or expect a walk to the breaker box. Considering running a separate 20 amp circuit to the work out area.

Great information! I’m in the process of checking all wiring on my outlets and switches since home builder electrician back stabbed most of them. I still don’t quite understand if you have a 15 amp outlet on 20 amp circuit will the outlet only ever draw a max of 15 amps? I don’t understand how outlet can limit the draw, or if that’s just a max rating on the outlet?

I ran 10 ga in all my grandparents complete 1950 home rebuild in NJ and it was only about $100 more for the wire, can that ever be unsafe?