I'm doing mine, "Outback Queensland Farmer!" He can't work out why one side of His Ute is destroyed an missing the door and Who keeps drinking all His Beers? Awesome work, You have Me hooked on RC mods. Unreal stuff.
Hahaha yup! And it doesn't help that I hang out with a 28 year old grandpa that's into all the scale stuff. He owns the red c14 in my vids and he got the first trailer which led me to getting one and now he has all this scale accessories and it's pretty cool looking. Dammit! Foots in asses! (Red Forman)
I’ve seen videos of other builds where they moved the transmission but they didn’t need to do the tape thing. Did you just move yours higher or something
You probably don't have to move your gearbox as high as RTR did if you just wanted it to be a decent trail truck. A lot of stock 4x4 trucks and Jeeps (1/1 scale) have a low-hanging transmission or transfer case with a skid plate BUT if you were intent on having an extreme 1/12 rock crawler, big monster truck tires would be the next modification, or in the #1 slot.
hello good morning everything is fine my name and Daniel I live in Brazil and I bought all this equipment that you made the video plus the mini esc and 20 I did all the procedures but only the rear engine worked perfect when I put the front engine it works alone without messing with the controls is that the receiver is defective, thank you very much
WPL does pay attention, you might see some of your improvements adopted by them. they might be coming out with a budget drift car, they saw my first video.
its lots easier with B-frame leaf spring setup to put it down low with about 1/8 to 3/16 suspension travel. rails shortened about 3/8 at front with creative butchery to the front servo tray. when near done easy to see how much to shorten the rear frame, took couple plastic leaf springs to make the rear offset bed mount, and as spacers for the front bed mount. really did it all as simply as possible! best way to know is "just do it", the B1 (aka B14) with 4 link C-frame under it is nicer crawling after the frame swap game too. for a 180 motor, needs older #316 gearbox with 8t 0.5 modulus brass pinion direct to output shaft gear... 4:1 ratio means 5k rpm on plastic with 20k rpm motor, is THE most likely failure point, and even more likely with a 2 dollar 30k rpm brushed motor that'd spin the shaft 7500 rpm. if I go that route, it'll get drilled for brass tubing as bushings, ball bearings in the axles with metal front steering hubs. wheel speed would go from 2200 to 3300, final drive ratio being about 9.2:1 (2.3 axles x 4:1 gearbox). it'd still be cheap and simpler sticking with a brushed 180, 30k rpm is about 4000kv if apples were oranges. it'd give 50% more wheel speed could be nice.
Can't wait for mine to show up, it will be my first kit but my second WPL and it's thanks to you! Do you know if I want to make it a 4 link will I need aftermarket pieces or can I use parts from the kit?
if im not mistaken you should be able to use the panhard bar as a link. Im not 100% sure because my kits come as a prerelease version so not sure what the final version comes with. But yes it can be 4 link. I believe the C34KM cant be converted because the gearbox and motor that comes with that model needs room for the motor so they went to 3 link with panhard. If your using the 2 speed then 4 link should work.
Nice build and a great video, but does anyone know why they the front end with a 3 link and a panhard bar? I took my panhard bar and straightened and moved the one ball end to make it a 4 link. I haven't run mine yet but it seems to work just fine
Nice work! I also bought the same model and V3 from BG but I don’t know how to make the connections. Can you share more details on the wires that need to be plugged into where. Thanks!
I show the v2 in this video but the wires go in the same general area and your instructions should guide you the rest of the way. hope that helps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3g-W9D7BsI4.html
It is Nice to watch the mods you do i dont know if you had that issue but my front stearing never Return to zéro position when i turn left to right and it pulls on the suspension and make the car look lower on 1 Side or the order the other problème je the v2 the speaker stop Working after 2 Days is it because i run on 3s ? I apprecciate your vidéos it help à lot for some issue but to me i like wpl métal for détails look and the fun to build Them but i cant expect Them reliabilite and great performance for rock crawling but for the price it is expected at least the metal one the other i dont recommand it everythng is to weak if i tried to upgrade Them it wont stop breaking and at the END i would put to Much money for the performances i END Up with it anyway thanks a lot to take the Time to inform us .😄
If your steering is binding up you may have incorrect length arms or steering setup. The steering affecting the body roll is something you can minimize if your links are properly setup but not completely get rid of unless your using a programmable transmitter. There is no epa on the WPL tx so setting up steering takes some patience to get right without the steering binding. Just try to mess with the steering links and servo horn mounting point till you get better steering without binding.
try my budget fix? most all WPL kits come with a steering link for both the B frames (straight rail) and C-frame (4 link suspension) measure twice! cut the C-frame link at a STEEP angle on the rod near the lower loop end. cut the B-frame at same steep angle at the servo end, then join with CA for a longer steering link that reaches to the further away passenger side. use a longer screw, a washer, and a servo grommet so it mounts at the very top of the steering knuckle (is about 3/16" higher, on top of the plastic). it gets rid of a lot of the bump steer issues doing it, and only costs a little time.
Hello. I just bought a Wpl c44km and bought from banggood the Diesel version upgraded 2 gen engine sound but I do not know if the Esc that moves the vehicle is in the box. Below I send you what is in the box. Please tell me if I did anything wrong. Package included: 1X Transmitter 1X Engine Sound 1X Receiver Board 1X Sticker Sheet 1X Manual Is the ESC missing?
HELLO, KEEP US THE GOOD WORK. CAN YOU TELL ME WHICH KIT OF ELECTRONICS CAN I BUY FOR C44 AND IF YOU HAVE A LINK? AND A LINK FOR BATTERY AND CHARGER. I AM CONFUSED. THANK YOU
check in the description box in these videos. Should have the links there. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EGn0ASbWNeY.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pk1uAbh1vxQ.html
I use whatever spare cloth I have. Just as long as it can keep stuff out of the motor for water runs and sand runs. make sure the cloth is not too thick so the motor doesn't build up heat.
@@RunThatRC I’m taking that advice to wrap the motor as soon as I can, but tell us more about learning it the hard way-you must’ve lost a motor to debris and dust; was it catastrophic failure and/or were you able to repair it?
@@Hjerte_Verke I had a motor get some sand and dirt inside and it seized the motor burned it up and popped the ESC with the magic smoke. So motor and ESC damaged due too debris. Covered the motor and hasn't happened again.
@@RunThatRC I see a good idea for a new invention, a “motor screen filter” that you snap or tie onto the motor can. Could even be some kind of plastic or metal mesh so it won’t rot. Ya ought to file a patent for it.
@@ragsixracing that radio is great. I use it on my C24 and p407. Really smooth and some cool and unique features. You can just go the none wpl esc receiver route. It's good too but can get expensive if you want all those light and sound features the V3 has.
@@Andozable On one truck he did, cut about 3-4mm from the top of spring where the coils are tight. Only on the front shocks though-- I think it was his blue C34.
On a programmable radio I do have a turn down the endpoints a little bit but I still get full throw. With the WPL V3 system it's not programmable so I move the steering linkage up the steering horn to adjust throw. I do get full throw. you might want to check your front axle assembly to make sure everything moves freely.
@@RunThatRC I did check. Nothing is binding up when the wheels are straight but they do struggle when turning more than 70%. I even put a spacer between the pinion and drive gear on the axle. I noticed that sometimes the shafts are ever so slightly bent which can propagate through and cause turning issues. Ah I wish I could physically see how other people's trucks drive so I can figure this thing out...I live in Calgary, AB. I have to admit though, MN D90 does a much better job with fit and finish than WPL. I like WPL as they're the pioneers of this new 1/16 scale realistic looking trucks but they tend to use somewhat cheaper materials and the engineering is not to the level of JJRC or MN.
I wish I had the answer to everyone's issues with these but unfortunately some of the issues people have I personally have not had so I can only report on my experiences. hope you get it sorted because I enjoy mine.
