WPL Link Rods Tips and Tricks 

Thank you, bro

Thanks bro

Welcome bro, thank you also

Thank you sir

Thank you sir Farley

Thabk you, bro

Thank you also, bro

Thank you bro stay safe also...

Salamat, bro

Thanks bro

Are those doesn't have nuts on both ends?

Thanks you also, bro. Good luck to your build.

Welcome sir. I think those metal(aluminum) shocks that looks like the stock is best to use to keep the dimensions the same as stock setup. To avoid the shocks from hitting the knuckles or tires when steering.

The issue in my case was that the original shocks have something like a cup at the bottom, but these ones dont. Well... I guess I will have to get the other parts

@sgecko7 Hi there, did you solve the issue ? i mean can we replace the shock and keep the plastic rod.

@@opunbuds I havent done anything yet. The stock rods dont seem to be the issue though. The problem is the part of the truss where the rod and the bottom part of the shock meet. The bottom of the stock shock is a cup and covers that part, so there is no change in size. The upgrade shock has something like a spacer and sits on top of that part, making it way wider. I would have to either purchase all of the other upgrades or cut that part off the stock truss... y'know what... F it... gonna check the length of the screws and cut it lol

Thanks bro

Yes, like in the video. The other type in the market is more heavier.

Aftermarket link rods are short, maybe find a longer one or use a shock extender for link rods mount.

As of now my 2speed gearbox is fix into low gear, I did not install the micro servo or tje gear changer. Now I am going to assemble c34 with res v3 and 2speed gearbox. Maybe I will bend the link rods or put it outside the metal chassis. Will update you if its done.

@@morrisrc awesome. Thanks !

Welcome sir

@@morrisrc Awesome. Thank you!

@@morrisrc I tried bending my hex ones and ended up with more link rods than I started with :(. Hoping that the plain ones like yours will be easier to bend. You can probably just about get away with mounting both the long and short rods off the single lowest mount hole if you've got a long enough bolt + nut for the rear ones. They'll just about clear the gear change assy. assuming you've trimmed off the excess from the shaft at the back. The axle's angle will then vary as the suspension travels but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Seems to flex as normal.

Yea bro

@@morrisrc thanks for the reply and sharing your knowledge with us 🙏

Welcome bro. By the way, did you mean the axle or the plastic axle truss or pull rod base seat. If the axle truss you just need a little mod.

The thread of both end are in diffetent direction.

Is the front shorter then the back mine looks a bit smaller

Yes bro pwede stock axle basta ung axle truss ay metal.

Bro, message moko sa messenger Morris Horfilla.

@@morrisrc ok na pala sir nahanap ko sa isang sa link mo sa sunnystore na shop, salamat

Bro, for the C14, C24 and C54 it's 190mm. C34 205mm and C44 215mm.

@@morrisrc in inches?

C14, 24 and 54 = 7.5", C34 = 8" and C44 = 8.5"

@@morrisrc some says it’s 7.2-7.4 inches

Yeah 7.48" I just round it off to 7.5" hehehehe!

Yes sir, the 4 short links are the same length and also the 4 long links are the same in length.

@@morrisrc entiendo 4 cortos de un mismo tamaño y 4 largos . Gracias.

No, my first is Ben Morris and my lastname is Horfilla. Add me at FB Ben Morris Horfilla 🙂