Wrong Foot Forward VS. Neutral 

Amen brother!

A narrow front end makes a huge difference

Right? How many times did he have to defend or reiterate WHY he was doing something and this is dependent on certain situations because the trolls always have a...but I, but what, ya but comment to make. I unfortunately ride (through invites of others) with a couple guys like that. The best part, they are either wetting themselves because of some the terrain we get into after they talk so tough at breakfast or they are the ones blaming their 30k sled they can’t ride because they think a turbo automatically makes you a good rider and/or conditions for their lack of riding ability. Get someone like this on the mountain and it makes itself evident very quickly and is a great people watching exercise. If you’re lucky they will have made up an excuse why they can’t come the next time when really it’s because it scared the shit out of them and/or were put in their place very quickly. Which is perfect. If they want to come and be humble, learn, grow and gain skills, we’re more than happy to help them all day.

@@specforged5651 The sad truth.

Jason McMurray What he said! I’ve found it good practice to repeatedly switch from neutral to WFF and back to neutral while holding the same sidehill line so you get comfortable changing instantly. Sometimes there’s just one short segment of consequence that you want to buy insurance for with wrong foot forward.

Can relate to this comment 150% I’m in the same boat. I’ll be in Newberry next week, hoping the snow keeps coming.

Thanks for watching 🙏

Great to hear!

No way can you go from new to advanced, you have zero experience

Glad it helped!

Same! I am 13 and I have a 2017 SKS, I am also learning how to sidehill.

Be carefull with that sks i remember my first time riding it and it is really fecking heavy to turn

@@sasadw95 nah I had a indy 500 before this thing is much better to ride than a 500

@@Bradywilmot I had polaris assault 800 before I sold it and it was much smoother and better than sks 2016 for me personally then again I'm really short and lightweight so there is that

@@sasadw95 well assaults are supposed to be smoother cus there made towards trail riding more than an sks 155

Ha. 56 here, had half of my left knee replaced about 5 years ago and the "good" one isn't great either, I feel your pain, literally. The hopovers are a real trick for me to execute, and I still suck at sidehilling, but at least with Dan's instruction I feel like I know a lot more about what I'm doing wrong. I DO feel like I'm getting better - riding terrain that used to be like "big nope" is now getting fun - finger on the brake, squared up, looking up and forward, understanding more about weight shift vs steering input, etc. Hopefully it will finally all click some day for me. 4-6 feet is headed our way (North Tahoe) this week....hope to be able to get out on the fresh powder and try some of this stuff! I'd also really like to get out to one of Dan's clinics...but still suck so bad they'd leave me in their rooster tail...

Aftermarket belt drive like the TKI is awesome. Takes about 5 minutes to change a belt if you manage to strip one, but mine has 1500 miles and still going (also only $80). Factory belt drive is a nightmare to change since you have to pull the pulley off, and not nearly as much tooth engagement on the top pulley without a tensioner which causes the stripped belt teeth. Can't really change a chain on the mountain, but they don't tend to fail if taken care of. Personally, I'll take the weight savings and carry an extra belt knowing I may need to change it, but so long as you always take care of the chain they're really not bad. Handlebar height is personal preference. I like taller bars so I'm not hunched over. I like them to be right about waist height or a touch taller when I'm standing neutral. Gives me plenty of room to move, and feels good. It's one of those things that there is no right or wrong. Just getting them where they feel right will improve your confidence. You can also tip the bars back or front to get a little different feel.

That was helpful 👌

Hi, Riding with both feet to one side is fine and can be a useful position especially when you’re making a trail for others behind you. There are plenty of times when I’m trying to keep the sled on a hillside but keep it flat instead of on edge. There isn’t an exact position for a lot of this type of riding…finding what works for you is important.

I have the bumper/belly skid and it really does save you when you try and climb trees. They really do go right where you look, even when you're looking at what you don't want to hit.

The cam-lock quick-release handlebar bags are from Sled Solutions: www.sledsolutions.com/collections/storage/handlebar-bags

Talked to Dan this week at his place and they have a new one designed that isn't the sled solutions one

No not really. The chassis difference is more of a difference than just shocks alone. Try a narrow front end kit. Raptor and several other aftermarket manufacturers make them. Narrower will help more than anything. With a narrow a arm setup you’ll need appropriate shocks to match since the center to center length will be shorter. If you get a narrow front end kit and move your ski spacers to the outside most setting you’ll notice a much bigger difference. Shock spring rate and valving will change you’re feel quite a bit as well. Hope this helps

@@anthonybeasley6294 well it just blew the motor a couple days ago so, prob can’t work on that part of the sled now lol

What about a Durapro?

it’s pro rmk or chaos

Gotta work for it kick off hard as you can if you start leaning over, and try to keep your shoulders relatively over the centre of the machine stick your leg out when you need to carve in.

Probably lots a variables. Speed has a factor also. I find myself falling off or tipping over also, but sometimes its because I'm going too slow or counter steering too much.

Its the rider, dont matter what the brand is!