Short story, so we finally got the vehicle running after we purchased it with a blown head gasket and blown turbos. Shortly after first start after rebuild, the oil light came on and message saying:
NO OIL PRESSURE PULL OVER SAFELY
So, this video will show you generally how to remove the oil pan and pickup tube, what I did to remove them, what I used to clean them, and what I used to seal everything back up.
Some required tools:
-10mm for oil pan and pickup tube bolts
-10mm swivel socket (can be found at amzn.to/2BAzupN)
-18mm for lower engine torque mount: amzn.to/2RbpSM8
-14mm lower engine torque bracket
-17mm for long bolt of lower engine torque mount
-pry bar: amzn.to/2RckpV5
-rubber mallet
-grinder for cutting out tab: amzn.to/2RcpVHj
-a few large oil pans for draining oil and collecting sludge
amzn.to/2Cu05X4
-few cans of brake or carburetor cleaner
amzn.to/2Cv0OY8
-diesel fuel or kerosene for dissolving carbon sludge
-B12 parts cleaner for soaking oil tube:
amzn.to/2R6JBN1
-2 entire rolls of paper towels
-many pairs of gloves
-few shots of vodka
Some torque specs:
-oil pan (15 lb-ft for the 6 longer bolts, and 12 lb-ft for remaining 30 or so short bolts)
-torque mount to frame (75 ft-lb)
-torque mount long bolt (65 ft-lb)
Use Permatex Anerobic gasket maker for oil pan. Use new seals for pickup tube and oil pan, including new seals for oil cooler. Requires draining and refilling coolant when disconnecting oil cooler pipes.
*Note: My car NO LONGER has a metal screen at the pickup tube. After removing the pan for a second time, I decided to completely remove it. I believe the reason for the screen is so that the oil pump will not draw in any metal particles if something were to fail in the engine. However, I am willing to risk that nothing will break and let the oil filter stop all of the carbon particles from being fed throughout the engine. If something were to break internally, I will probably junk the vehicle for $500 or sell it.
Anyhow, I performed 2 quick oil and filter changes shortly after reinstalling the oil pan and pickup tube for the last time. First change done after running car for 30 minutes. Oil filter was filled with carbon particles. Replaced oil with 6 qt. of conventional wal-mart oil 5W-30 , 1.5 qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil, and fram filter.
Second change done after first 30 miles. Use same brand oil and filter and more Marvel Mystery Oil.
Next change will be done at 250 miles and then I will use full synthetic 5W-30 oil and premium filter. After that, regular changes will be done every 3,000 to 3,500 miles using full synthetic oil with 1 qt. Marvel Mystery Oil. This is to make sure this problem will never happen again.
Car runs great so far, runs smooth cruising at 70mph on highway. Passed CA emissions test on 10/4/18 after performing a drive cycle to reset engine ECM because computer will reset if battery is disconnected and in CA is automatic failure for emissions test.
Next I will service transmission fluid and filter as this transmission was replaced at 70k with new unit from Volvo dealer. Car now has 118k approx, so it is due for fluid and filter change. Then I will service front helical gear, front transfer case, rear diff, and rear haldex fluids. Then I will try to put at least 200k more miles to get my money worth. Only bought car for $750! Spent another $650 on parts and fluids thus far.
26 авг 2024