In this video I remove the top end on the RT2 MX. Then I remove the clutch cover and install kick starter parts and the RH crankshaft seal. Then upon reassembly I find a stripped thread and install a Heli coil.
Thanks Steve, it has always been my interest along with the bikes, I have been collecting tools and machines for the better part of my life. Just a little at a time!
Thanks Dean, this one is super cool old racing technology, think they are still pretty competitive, actually they are faster than the 4 strokes they use now.
Thanks Dale. Lovely work as usual and I'm looking forward to progress on this bike. The right side gear shift surprises me. Makes me think of my old Beezer and Trumpy back in the day. Cheers, Peter.
Thanks, buddy, yes Yamaha made provisions for the right-side shift on all the 250/360 models, does require some drilling, but pretty easy to do, you just pull the shaft through the other side and put the clip in another position. Can't remember how many years it was available. If you look at the outside of the side case adjacent to the Kickstarter you will see a little bump, its located for you on the inside so all you have to do is drill through.
Thanks Dale , Its been a long time since I worked on a 360 . I thought for a race motor they would have put in straight cut gears . Oh well keep up the great work Dale , we will be watching . Murray
Yeah, you would have thought so. I don't think I had ever been in the side cover on this one. Not sure on the 250/360 mx bikes but the 125/175 had straight cut gears available back in the day, they are still in the parts manual, but never have seen any in the wild.
I like the fancy piston pin puller and guide pin thingy puller , I made my own piston pin remover out of a c clamp a welder and a wrench but the one you got is much better , I hope I can get you to bore my RZ350 cylinders someday
Hot setup. I have been unimpressed with the newer silicon formulations. Why not put something like yamabond around the seal and on the cover gasket, and low strength loctite on the crank nut? Nice to seem someone working on the cool stuff. thanks
Hey, Rowland, you could do all of that stuff, I have always had good luck with the black rtv. The crank and clutch nut have never been an issue loosing up, so I just don't see the need. But if you're having a problem.....loctite would be the answer.
Thanks Vincent, it's a lot of fun and brings back lots of memories. The engine holder is an OTC 7020, it's really an automotive tool, but it works great for bikes too. Try to find a used one, the new ones are really pricey I see.
Dale I have a question what do you call the tool you used to put the clutch screws in with ( approx min 34 ). I broke mine and I am looking for a new one, when I go to the tool shop nobody knows what I am talking about. Any help would be appreciated.
That's a no. 2 Phillips size driver bit normally you'd buy in a multi set pack from your local hardware supplier. The sets have all different style patterns, hex, Phillips, flat, 12 point. Look out foe them.
Thats a hammer impact driver, they are easy to find, just look on about any motorcycle supplier. If you're working on these Jap bikes, be sure to get you some JIS bits, they look like Phillips bits but are different.
I'm not sure all the years that had it, probably at least 72/73. All bikes had it built in, but you had to drill the hole in the clutch cover, but it is already located for you on the inside, then you just pull the shaft through and install the clip in the inner position put a seal in and you are ready to flat track. If you will look at the clutch cover just below the kickstarter you will see a little round bump, you can drill through from the inside. It does take machine work to do it.
@@montana2strokeracer I can remember a friends father motocross raced a early 70s Husqvarna that was convertible left or right shift , rode it once about hurt myself trying to find the right side rear brake that was on the left side that was the only bike I ever rode like that
