I really like the real time decision making. "I think I'll turn it around", "eh maybe not", "yeah I'll turn it around". You know the gears are turning and the consequences are being weighed. That process is not hidden and I enjoy watching it play out. Great video.
Well done Dale, I hope at least one person that saw this understands now why sometimes the most simple task turns in to quite a chore that can test your patience to say the least while taking time to solve.
What patience! Did not know these were adjustable, but wow are they "fiddly". Did not realize tiny difference in shims would have such an effect. Well done, Dale!
I read the manual several times and could not correlate the procedure to what I was looking at, but you have explained it very well. So now I can take the pump off my RD400 and replace the seals. Thank you for so much detail.
Awesome, glad some folks are getting some good from these videos. Best of luck with your new old purchase. Remember not all models have the same output. Check your model for the correct spec.
What produces the best results is the knowledge you apply coupled with experience and the results are excellent because you also apply patience. Great job Sir.
Thanks 👍. Just brought a bunch of RD 250 parts and bikes 🏍. Sorting one out now so your video is of great help and important information as I have never had RD Yamaha's before. Thanks 👍 😊
I didn't have a service manual for adjusting the discharge amount of the very old 1985 Yamaha jog (27V) 2-stroke OIL pump, so I was stuck, but I continued to search on the net and this video was very helpful. Thank you very much for this detailed video. This should solve your problem.
Great video. I'm researching various things to get some vintage bikes running. Recently bought my late Uncle's HT1, AT1, CT1, and TM400. Working on the CT1 first, and I'm at the oil pump stage now. Learned a bunch from this video, thank you. Looking forward to going through your videos. Subscribed.
Hey thanks for the subscription, much appreciated. Sounds like you have enough to keep you busy for a while. I am glad you are finding some good info in these old videos. If you run into anything you have questions on, don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Great work sir👌👍 your procedure to achieve the final setting of 2t oil pump is awesome. All vintage bike lovers get help from your video. I use Yamaha rx 100 bike. Very informative video. Great work sir. Thanks.
Hey Dale, I think you were closer than you thought on idle. When you measured using the syringe, there was air in the bottom "tip" where the needle would attach. When measuring for an injection or oral meds, the syringe is held upright, the air bubbles are "tapped out," and thus eliminating your excess oil. Great video. Thanks.
Dale, lot of useful info. I will have to revisit my pump, all I did was just take it apart, clean it and put it back. After seeing this video, now I have to make sure it does pump oil correctly.
Brilliant Dale, the new bore and piston will thank you. What a chore turning the wheel hundreds of times, but it had to be done. Great result. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean why wouldn't 100 turns with half the volume be the same result. And if that is, wouldn't 50 turns be...you can see where I'm going with this. Just sayin.
Yes sir, it does almost every week, yep, you don't know how many times I wanted to cut the turns in half and get half the output. Not what it says to do though. Thanks Cain.
This has reminded me why I bought the Snap-On magnet with stainless holder around 1980 Fit's directly onto open end and holds nut in position but isn't strong enough to pull the washer off. Even at dealers we rarely had correct shims (even though it was very rare pumps needed adjustment) Swapping between Imperial amd metric is a bunch of fun when you don't do it 'all the time' Just like in USA, metric feeler gauges were pretty difficult to come by in Britain in the 60's and 70's (heck, in Central Florida, even in 1999 you got looked at like you had two heads if you asked for metric stuff) Clearance is 0.008"¬0.010", 0.2mm is about 0.008". I had trained as a precision machinist a few years earlier so didn't have a problem back then (plus, how I remembered it, 1mm is 0.03937", Isle of Man TT course 37.73 miles so '40' is close enough for most work) Suzuki definately had the better measuring method with the graduated cylinder you filled up and saw how much it used in a specific time. Only problem was it was laboratory grade, glass and didn't last long in a motorcycle workshop. For a 50+ yr old motorcycle I doubt the tiny extra bit of oil will make much difference
Yes, I agree, the Yamaha pump is outstanding. Most are still working today....it amazes me why folks take them off, except for all out racing. Suzuki's pumps are made by Mikuni, and I have never seen one of them fail either. Great way to remember 1mm. It's cool how we figure out ways to remember things. Now if I can only remember my wedding anniversary after all these years.
just can't do this kind of stuff without machining capabilities. I could sit and watch this stuff for hours, totally mesmerized. ANd then come up with some reason to go fire my machines up :-)
I think that is the part of this hobby I enjoy the most...machine work. You are right though; I would be lost without my machinery. Use it most every single day. Where I live if you can't make it, you're waiting days to get what you need. So handy it is. Thanks for watchin.
They make have adjusted it to that setting as they probably thought it was easier to put 2 stroke mix in the tank? P.s. When doing your adjustments use a normal washer instead of the lock washer, use the lock washer when you've got the adjustment correct. Lock washers are one time use only items.
Hi, thank you for your comment. Yes, this is very important part, and many people overlook making adjustments to it. It does wear over time and must be adjusted to maintain optimum performance.
Extremely well done 👍🏼 Any idea if the oil pump on a 71’ DT-250 is the same? Just installed a new piston and rings (OEM Yamaha parts) and want to go through the process like you just explained Will send many thanks in advance 🙏👍🏼
Hi Patrick, yes, they are the same type pumps, and the basic adjustment is the same. The output is different though. I don't have a 250 to do a video on. I do have a 360 that will be close. I will try to get in the schedule.
would the clearances be the same on a 74 dt100? the problem I'm having is I think the oil pump is putting way too much into the engine so much that the exhaust has oil leaking the end.problem I'm having is I think the oil pump is putting way too much into the engine so much that the exhaust has oil leaking the end. My other hypothesis was that the engine is also burning crankcase oil but the oil level seems to remain the same
I am sorry I can't say for sure, I have never worked on any of these bikes past 1973, so all the small DT models I am just not sure of. If I was a betting man, I would say they are similar. You may have to find out from some source what the spec's are for your pump output. If you have never changed the crank seals, it probably is a good idea to go ahead and get it done. They will start and run much better with a tight seal.
So is it the shims that determine the amount? All good yours is spot on to where you want it, but what if it was way out, how then would you adjust the deluvery amount?
Thats where the feeler gauge comes in, when you measure between the oil pump pulley and the housing that is when you put in more or take out washers to get the correct measurement.
Dale, these videos are great. My gt80 has a rebuilt pump (by a pro!) my injection hose leaks. New one on the way with clamps. Any secret to the tiny clamps, do they just press in with a needle nose to tighten down?
Hey Nick, no don't squeeze them with pliers. They are basically a rolled-up piece of spring steel. They are not easy but can be done by slipping them on before you put on the banjo fitting and then using your nails to slightly open them and slide them up the hose at the same time. Like I say not easy but with some due diligence you can do it.
I am about to go through the checks to start for the first time in an unknown amount of time a 1972 CS5. Silly question, but why not just pull the banjo from where the oil injects into the cylinder and measure the volume there? Thanks.
Hey Lee, you could certainly check it at the banjo. But I think it is easier to do it this way since the oil pump wheel that I need to turn is over on this side. Everything I need to mess with is in one spot.
Makes sense I am going to be completely replumbing the oil system and rebuilding the pump so I suppose I could just bench test it. I have restored a lot of vintage bikes, but never owned a 2 stroke. Is there a preferred oil for a CS5? Old racer say castor because they like the smell, but they were running premix, the local dealership recommended Yamalube 2S (or 2R). With 15 bikes, I will probably only ride this a few hundred miles a year so oil cost isn’t really an issue, just whatever is best for the engine. Any recommendations?
Hi dale, you were a great help in my TS125 rebuild. I'm now on to my Dt250 (1978/9) so no back wheel on my pump. I note as the pump removed the worm gear turns as expected. If i spin the metal wheel in the pump the shaft moves in and out as expected. Once on the shaft does not move when rotating the flywheel. Do i need 2 T oil in the pump? or could it be my worm shaft is not engaging. any help welcome? Think in advance. Glyn Ward
Hey Glyn, the 78/79 models are a bit new for me. I will try to give you some options, yes there should be 2 stroke oil in the pump, worm gear area. It sounds like your oil pump drive inside the cover is either missing the drive gear or the drive pin may have dropped out. I would look inside the clutch side cover and see if all the oil pump drive stuff is in there.
Dale, thanks for the reply. The pump is almost identical to your one in the video, the only difference is the later pump does not have the back white spin wheel. The clutch cover drive should be ok as i have rebuilt the engine completely and the worm drive does spin when i turn the engine over. I have a spare pump so may try that. I have ordered a pump service kit so will do that first and put some oil through the pump. I'll feedback when i get to the bottom of it all. Thanks Again.
Hi there, on the bikes that don't have the priming wheel, you need to pull the side case and turn the oil pump with a cordless drill connected to the oil pump drive shaft. I know it's a pain, not sure why Yamaha quit putting the priming wheel on them.
@@montana2strokeracerlet me know if you want some for your shop. I have an EDM and make these sorts of things by the 1,000s ranging from .001” up to 1/8”
Hi Dale . Very helpful thank you. One question . I have been recommissioning a 1978 Yamaha v90 step through . I’ve got it running ok but there isn’t any smoke at all coming from the exhaust. Any suggestions on what to check . Regards Paul UK
Hi Paul, not familiar with the V90, but if it is an oil injected two -stroke, the first thing I would do is mix some premix for the tank, oh at 32:1 ratio or something like that. Then disconnect the oil line at the intake, start and watch to see if there is any oil being pumped to the intake. If so, I would be pretty confident that the pump is supplying the oil needed. If not, could be you need to bleed the oil line going to the pump and the pump itself, small screw come out and allows oil to flow then reinstall. The type of oil also could be the issue. Some two-stroke oil today does not smoke much. It's just going to be a trial-and-error process. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Awesome video this helped a lot, I just had a quick question. What's the little tool you used to screw into the oil outlet at the top of the oil pump to test the amount it was letting out? I also have another kind of stupid question, but would the oil output be different on a 400? I'm pretty sure it has the same oil pump on it. I own a 1975 Yamaha dt400, and I'm troubleshooting it at the moment. Thanks for taking the time!
Hi Alex, I just bought a new banjo fitting from Yamaha and fitted a length of hose. I keep that as my tool for checking output. Stop by the local farm store and by a small syringe to collect and measure the amount. I think all the pumps are pretty much the same, the difference is how it is calibrated with the washers to change the output. I don't have the data for your bike because it is newer than the ones I deal with. 1973 is pretty much where I stop. However, for the 73 RT1 360 Yamaha enduro the data is: minimum stroke (idle) .95-1.19 cc at 200 strokes. Maximum stroke (full throttle) 8.80-9.70 cc at 200 strokes. Strokes are one revolution of the priming wheel on the pump. Sorry I don't have the data for your bike, but you may be able to ask on the Vintage Yamaha enduro forum, those guys are a wealth of knowledge, and really happy to help you out. Hey thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Dale, Wondering if you have a few items for a 71 DT250 you might be willing to sell Need a good clutch cover and the outlet spring and ball bearing for the oil pump Will extend my thanks in advance Pat
Sorry I have not worked on any DT175, but they should not be much different than a CT175. You should be able to get at least 4 or 5 hundred miles from a tank of oil, depending on your speed and rpm.
is this issue only on Yamaha? seems my tc-100 has little oil pump adjustment other than the cable. glad you pointed this out ,for the Yamaha folks most wouldn't know this adjustment i think.
As far as I know, I have never seen any further adjustments for the Suzuki's, not to say there isn't. I just am not aware. I wasn't always aware of this Yamaha stuff till a few years ago. It is not in the service manual, it was in a service bulletin, I came by a few years ago.
@@montana2strokeracer Really Dale this is what sets your channel to be unique compared to many older channels of this type . attention to detail and a really clear explanation. think its your work ethic, do it right or go home!
Yes, It's in Yamaha service bulletin #258. It's the same for the AT 1,2,3. You may be able to find the service bulletin on google, or go to the Vintage Yamaha enduro forum, think they have it there in the Tech bulletin area.
One other question for you Dale. Yesterday I removed the front forks on my AT3 to replace the seals and change oil and noticed the inner tubes are bent up near the clamping area by the headlight. Is there a proper way to straighten these?
@@steveromsek2058 Sure thing Steve, I have done several fork tube straightening videos, the latest one is here, it is a Kawasaki but the principle is the same. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pp9e10F8TuA.html
I'm not saying it was right, but I can see why the previous owner went the premix route, What a pain that was, then moving the wheel 200 times for the oil consumption check, How's the thumb Dale !!! Malc U.K.
I think latter Yammy bikes didnt hv this kind of oil pump. On RXZ 135 they ditch these features. (those rear tooth plate) Just screw in the pump and you good to go They do fit on my 2a6 tho
Hi there, not sure what the new models have for pumps. I just primarily work on the older enduro models. The little toothed plate sure makes it easy to prime and test. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
