In the ''Yamaha CDC745 No open and No Play 2 Faults'' episode, at 12:57 the same gear has the same crack in the same place. Maybe it's just an expansion slot. What you think?
Thank you 12voltvids! I was able to resurrect my 645 to play condition thanks to your video. I'm boiling the belt for a bit. I heard you say in another video it might tighten it up. Thank you so much :)
There's this grease I use for VCRs called "Super Lube." Its a synthetic grease and I highly recommend getting that. Perfect for lubricating moving parts.
I had a CDC-655 back in the 90s, it was a decent machine although the mechanism was quite noisy. As far as i can recall it was almost identical to this one.
Hello friend, excellent videos. I have a question. I want to know what is the difference between a blue laser lens and a trnpate? I hope you can solve my doubt
Why did fusing the gear stop the ticking noise? Does that mean that gear teeth had opened up slightly and were slightly skipping against the slave gear?
It opens up a little causing misalignment as the contact between it and the following gear moves from the last tooth before and first after the crack I guess, the force is applied along the tangent to the circle so it tries to open it up once per revolution
Yamaha (like Denon) never built a CD player from the ground-up, they mostly used other Japanese brands parts (mostly Sony, Sanyo and Matsushita). They look cool though with the amber tinted display (actually a standard VFD filtered to get only red component), but beside that, the "natural sound" is just marketing: only the power supply and the output buffer are their own design, everything else was designed by other companies.
Exactly. I wasn't crazy about the Sanyo transport on the Yamaha changers as the error correction couldn't make some discs playable. Remembering some of the early car audio CD players, my Yamaha sucked comparing to them. I still have one of the cheap Sonys from very early 90s, the '1bit' D/A converter ;) - I keep it 'cause it has all the functions including indexing on the front panel. The machines from that time were very user friendly, but if someone burned a CD-R from own library it had to be done right or the player wouldn't recognize some of tracks.
Got a Yamaha CDX-530 I picked up for cheap. It reads CDRs and sounds ok, but not quite as good as most of the Sony CD players I have had. I did like the white colour (for you Canadians) circuit boards Yamaha used, pretty inside, 1990 model.
Smashing, a simple one that didn't take long and out it goes to the next owner :-D You can get molly in other types of grease, maybe lithium/molly would do the same job.
I also use Molykote DX, which is a lithium grease as well, theoretically plastic-safe. Not the same stuff as Dave's because it's white, without that yellowish tint. I bought the 50g tube in around 2006 for ~ $15, still has plenty of stuff in it. Not good for everything, it's a bit too thick, and tends to act as a glue instead of a lubricant if used on large contact surfaces. I first tried to use it in my CD changer, then it needed so much torque poor thing was struggling even with new belt. I had to clean it off of the high surface contact areas and use something thinner there. It is fine for the tracking gears in cd/dvd players, or lubricating the tape guide posts and loading mechanisms in VCRs.
No. I don't have a 3D printer and even if I did I don't have the cad files required that's the big problem getting CAD files. Everyone says just 3D print a part but if nobody has designed that part the amount of effort to create a part that works is not worth the payout. I once tried to have a gear printed sent it out to a professional engineering firm paid about $300 to have basically a $1 part printed and it didn't work, they wanted more money because they needed to keep refining to try and make it work it's really not worth it unless someone has already perfected the design and is posted it where you can grab it and print it but most of these parts you'll never going to find them you're going to have to do the legwork yourself and that requires CAD design and lots of trial and error.
Just replaced (last week) similar belt on my CDC-665 for first time since I got it new in late '90s, very easy to do. Used 4.6" belt, bought it from turntableneedles.com
I was on the edge of my seat watching you remove that 1st gear with those included/molded locking tabs! Whatta lame design! What ever happened to those tiny plastic or nylon split locking washers??? smh.... Melting plastic is always a challenge. Guy should maybe have a bunch of junk/bad gears to "borrow" similar material for plastic welding. Been there/done that but dang.....that's almost akin to brain surgery on a gear that small-lol!!!!!!!
I know you can get them but this unit might get me 20 bucks. Why would I spend that or more on a tiny gear? Remember cd players don't sell for much. I can go to the second hand store and find them for 15 - 20 bucks. I bought a JVC svhs decks for 15.00 a few years ago. These things do not go for inflated eBay prices. They sell dirt cheap at valuvillage and i get about the same for used devices. Ya i know you see things like dual turntables selling for 500, but that is highway robbery to some uneducated buyer. A savvy buyer won't pay more than 50 or 60 for one of those dual record changers in working conditions and 20-30 for one that needs service. Even for a serviced unit with a new cartridge can be had for 100 - 120. I have about 10 turntables for sale, got them all for next to nothing.
