Great video! Not many people show this much detail. I started a major rebuild of a 1979 Enticer 300 last winter. It's a gift for my nephew. This video will help me finish it up.
Great vid guys, learned a lot for my first tear doin of 87 ET 340. Question: I pulled the clutch off and it came off in two pieces… When I put back on, do I just torque down the original bolt? 72lbs first then loosen then 42lbs say manual. Anyway to add pics here?
@@3gsgarage117 Great vid guys, learned a lot for my first tear down of 87 ET 340. Question: I pulled the clutch off and it came off in two pieces… When I put back on, do I just torque down the original bolt? 72lbs first then loosen then 42lbs say manual. Anyway to add pics here?
Lol, yeah, we sure are legit. Honestly, it is so nice to have a nice building to work out of. I spent many years laying on the concrete out in my driveway freezing to death. Thanks for watching!
Yea, put in the rear inner wheels and there are provisions on the skid frames to install extra wheels ahead of the front wheels. Also, I usually cut the rear axel and install a third wheel in the center to even the track tension to prevent track side fraying/cracking. You almost need a lathe to do it, but I've done it without , if you're crafty When studding, I usually put hifax strips on the tunnel to help prevent studs from rubbing Yup, get rid of the oil injection on any machine out of warranty. Seen too many motors(not just Yamaha) fail because of injection problems The manufacturer won't replace a motor because of a pump related failure out of warranty. You can mix it right in the tank in a pinch My buddy was the tail end man on a nighttime trail ride. he noticed the machine(Bravo long track) wasn't working just right, but he figured it was because he was towing a sled. He got out on the pond, opened her up, half way across the pond the motor seized. Oil pump stuck wide open and because he was in the back there was nobody to see all the smoke. Thats just one of several machines I know of Round car body plugs are good for those clutch holes and looks good too
Awesome video guys, great content on explaining all the details can't wait to see the progress, hopefully you get some racing footage keep up the good work
Yes the shock is pricey. But if money is not the factor, then I would replace it. Also if that little 340 e/t is going to be good to go for trails, keep the Yama-lube oil injection.
I am Canadian so I have a few of my own sleds including a 81 enticer 250 starts first pull every time and a Polaris Indy 550 but I like the Yamaha more.
Hey, great content! I just found this channel. I've seen some of your other videos under your wife's channel, glad to see you have your own thing going on now. I appreciate how thorough you are and don't edit everything out. What is your take on doing the crank seals for these old Yamahas? Some guys swear by always changing them. Have you personally had any fail? Keep up the good work!
Hey thanks for watching, glad you enjoy! I don't have enough time to change them on all the sleds we play with, but some I have rebuilt and put new seals in. I'd never just do a top end on one without splitting the cases, inspecting the bearings and replacing the seals. We have had several engine failures over the years and I believe at least 3 were from leaky crank seals... Cheers!!
Aside from loosening up or taking the engine out completely I don't have a great suggestion there unfortunately. Most of the clutches are a bear to get to pop off and require a good amount of torque. Thankfully I haven't had to work on many sleds that are exceptionally nice so the hole drilling isn't the worst option for me. Thanks for watching!
Great vid guys, learned a lot for my first tear doin of 87 ET 340. Question: I pulled the clutch off and it came off in two pieces… When I put back on, do I just torque down the original bolt? 72lbs first then loosen then 42lbs say manual. Anyway to add pics here?
I know exactly what you mean. Some of the earlier yamaha clutches were two pieces with a spline in the middle. Maybe your '87 had an earlier model clutch put on at some point. You are right, slip the two pieces back together, and slip the whole unit onto the crank shaft and torque the bolt to the specs you stated. Good luck with the build, and thanks for watching the vid!!
Hey guys, re-installing my magneto on 87 ET 340 I have about 1/4” of space between back side of magneto and stator plate. Is this space normal or do I have to press on the magneto more? I have keyway lines up
That sounds correct. As long as you are sure the keyway is lined up, when you tighten up the bolt it will home itself and seat where it should be. Did you do the crank seals?
Yes, sled was loaded with mice stuff. Sat 10years outside. I got it for $200. It fired over first prime, but I learned quickly mice stuff got into everything and below crank shaft sobI had to completely take apart to clean. Crank shaft bearings all spun freely and I didn’t want to pull that apart never having dismantled a sled or 2 stroke motor. I replaced all seals/gaskets while putting all together including crank shaft rubber seals. Gauged pistons and rings etc, were within spec so left them for now. Replaced drive shaft bearing you mention in vid also. It was SHOT! I turned down magneto bolt to manual spec of 54lbs, so I guess I’m good then Thanks tons for quick replies!
Ok guys so I got the engine back in, all hooked up. 2 stroke oil in reservoir and no gas in tank yet. Something special I should do to prime everything to get her going? Run Pre mix in gas for a bit to check 2 cycle oil use?? Is it ok to just prime the plugs with Pre mix to see if she’ll fire over? I am getting spark.
