Big fan of your video's. I don't think anyone else has as many as you! I just commented on someone else's video, about an issue mine had when I bought it from a local guy. I will post here: I bought my 2003 FX140 with water in the oil.......a marina mechanic said it was the head gasket......I've been turning wrenches since I was 10, this was NOT a head gasket issue, because the spark plugs didn't show evidence. HOWEVER, the coolant outlet pipe at the front of the valve cover, had started bypassing water through the o-ring, and forced it into the cavity under the valve cover grommet. Thus, dead heading pressure to the valve cover gasket, and it was going UNDER it! Because, old cover gaskets get harder than a high school boy at a strip club! I had to clean the o-ring bore in the cylinder head, and use a super quality silicone rubber (mostly used in the engines of big rigs) to seal the outlet pipe with a new o-ring. I left the grommet out of the valve cover, and then drilled a hole in the valve cover area where they capped off the REAR plug of the cylinder head, on the REAR of the engine. Many people don't know there is another on the rear....but Yamaha DID IN FACT use this engine originally in the R1 motorcycle (which is one of my adrenaline fav's!!) and capped off the other water outlet that they used on the street bike cooling systems.... I don't remember if I made a video on my channel about it or not. BUT I only paid $600 for the ski, and got a DOUBLE trailer out of it!!! I have since wrapped it in a sweet decal, and installed a BOSS stereo with Rockford drivers.
Awesome 👌 sounds like a rewarding repair right there . Yes very accurate the r1 motor and the mr1 are the same. I love these motors .thank you for your positive feedback and comment .
I wanted to tell you that I figured out that the oil seal in my oil pump was sloppy. I compared to a cast off pump housing from my spare parts and there was play on the spindle. Thought I'd share that and thank you for responding to my last comment. Even though it didn't solve my issue I still really appreciated the time and your response. Take care!
Hi ,The sealant that i used on the crank is grey and i did not display adhering of sealant in this video . The oil clearances has been checked prior to the build ,the crank has been cleaned and inspected also so that the bearings used match perfectly before assembly . this particular engine has already done over a hundred hours to date after the rebuild . in order to keep the video not too long we have left out some basics of course and this is a look see into such a build
Thanks for the videos. Much appreciated. I have a question you might be able to help me with. I got a fxho I bought with a rebuilt engine by previous owner. He fired it up and said it keep going off on low oil pressure. So I decided to sell it. I got it and it ran but definitely had low oil pressure. I removed the engine and disassembled the bottom end journal clearance was in tolerance as well as the rod's did see that the oring was missing so I got one reassembled it rebuilt the oil pump and no oil pressure at all. Before I removed it I had a little pressure at the pressure switch. Now nothing. Any info would be awesome
Wish you would have showed how to torque the head and set the cams. That to me is the confusing part on mine. We did a head gasket change now 3 out of the 4 cylinders don't have compression. It ran before so im assuming I messed up putting the head gasket on
@@lowboytrucker I doubt that the SBT gasket would cause that problem . Is there rust in the head ? I know the valves get rusty and it shows almost no compression. Timing wouldn’t make three out of four cylinders lose compression. Before disassembling again pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder like a table spoon 🥄 of oil . Give it a crank and then Che I compression again .
@@Redrockat I'll try that. My dad painted that copper gasket on it he uses it on everything. Probably should have put it on dry. The engine only has 40 hours on it but the water jackets between the cylinders was full of salty residue that we had to dig out. That's the reason we popped the head. Is number 1 cylinder by the oil tank or timing chain ? Thanks for your help btw
@@lowboytrucker cylinder nr 1 is at the timing chain side . The gasket does not need anything and should be used as is . The copper gasket product should not be used it fails after some time flaking and blocks everything . Let me know how it goes .
Dont know if this will get answered.. I am rebuilding a 2006 vx110.the rod caps got moved around and dont know which way they go on rhe rod. Each cap is still with the correct rod. The caps have 2 bumps or 2 dimples. Do these face the timing chain or the other way? The manual shows numbers to line up but mine are worn off. Thanks
These are “cracked caps “ so caps to rods are easy . We have seen the Rods all face one direction and we have seen Rods all face the other direction . As long as they all face the same direction you will be okay .
Yes depending on what the condition of your original bearings are . Yamaha bearings are colour coded depending on small size differences . So we always measure and make for a perfect fit .
generally after failure do these engines prove reliable if they are rebuilt with new oem parts and to spec with what the manual says about torquing, degreeing etc? Been hearing some horror stories on the web lately.
Great video. I have to assemble my motor as soon as I have all the parts together. Do you know if the head studs are re-usable, the Service Manual does not call out those bolts/studs anywhere.
Laz Martinez thank you for the comment , I did not show that exact procedure because it might make the video too long. Thanks for watching , I will make a dedicated video on how to set the timing perfectly on a later stage
hola, no confío en los productos sbt ya que hemos tenido algunos problemas con ellos aquí en mi país. Prefiero comprar un motor Yamaha de segunda mano y usar ese bloque como núcleo. Ya hemos reconstruido estos motores con gran éxito. ¿Qué le pasa a tu bloque?
Do you mind me asking who’s rebuild kit did you use? Also did you put a micrometer on the journals and a piston dial bore gauge to measure piston to wall clearance?
what was the engine failure?i have the same with 140hrs and i'm thinking to put a set camshafts from the r1 engine...will it fit?the motor can take this upgrade?
This fx160 mr1 motor has already high lift cam shafts and they are also specific to marine torque and output in real world environment . The Yamaha R1 🏍 super bike cam won’t work .
Can you help me verify that there is supposed to be a rubber o ring on the spindle of the MR1 oil pump? I don't see one in the oil pump that I have dismantled, but it is shown in the manual and I see it in the oil pump rebuild kits. I placed the oil o ring in the case, but I am getting an oil alarm, and I am thinking this is the problem. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
@@Redrockat is that video out there yet? I'm not finding it and I'm about to install the head. It would be great to watch your video on setting the timing chain and cams before I install. Thanks.
Greg Frederick we have not yet made such a video . The timing is straight forward and remember to compensate for dwell zone so that you may get it spot on and harvest rpm and torque
You can get most everything here. pwcparts.com/ But I also most of the parts I needed besides the main and rod bearing cheaper through Amazon or eBay. I hope this helps.
David Garner yes it matters they have a specific way of going in . The thread is the same on both sides though . The shorter thread goes into block and the longer thread obviously gets the nut to keep the head in place .
Rik Miles how boring would it be if I make a hour long video showing all the bolts being locktite and flanges being sealant administered lol and measurements taken etc
@@Redrockat but you did show all the time struggling with the piston rod circlips and they are not really that hard to install. Someone watching this needs to know there are manual specs and tolerances for every contact point. Not checking those is a huge waste of time and money. It seems you could mention the various lock-tight types that are called for at each point. But the Yamaha Service manual lists those... So for everyone else planning to do this, better get a copy of the Yamaha Service guide so you know how to determine which bearings to use where. Most of the bolts are not straight torque values. But rather ##ft.lb torque plus ##degrees turn. Nice video. But don't do it this way without getting all the specific details first.
Greg Frederick I only show how it's done on a basic level and did not want to bore people with an hour long detailed video . The c clips are not easy to install at all hey and I chose to not do a retake of an easy c clip install to show that there is difficulty in the process . This engine is still running well today btw with no problems at all 😊 it is used for a fishing ski in the ocean .