Have a 99, purchased as a non-runner for a low price, I decided to remove the cylinder head. Would have never considered it without these educational videos. If I spend $100 to have it running I'd be shocked. Great job!
What I meant is that it is normal for the piston to be able to rock back and forth a tiny bit. The measurement made to determine wear requires removal of the cylinder. Then a bore gauge measures cylinder ID. A micrometer measures piston OD. A good machine shop can do this for you, and tell you if you can get away with just honing the cylinder, or if you'll require an overbore with new piston. Did you check the oil level? An overfilled crankcase can cause your symptoms, esp. with contaminated oil
I've used ATF, kerosene and acetone mixed together, left to sit for a couple of weeks, to break free stuck pistons. Works beautifully unless it's super corroded (then I just drill the piston crown out and cut what's left off of the cylinder wall unless I REALLY want to save the piston.)
I agree. When I heard this atv had been dropped into a lake, I feared the worst. These days I use it to pull a wagon and it gets some use almost every week.
No, no cutting needed. Most of my project videos are grouped in playlists to make it easy to follow the series, I can't post a link direct to part 1, youtube is not allowing me to for some reason. Please view my playlists, and find the grizzly one there.
Did you get the hidden screw out? Look at the 18:05 mark in Part 1, and I point it out. It is down in the little well that is normally covered by that cross brace I removed in Part 1.
You can just time it correctly on re-assembly, but if you are not sure of the condition of the motor, you might verify if it was in time before dis-assemblly, just out of curiosity, also to gie you an idea of the relationship of the cam gear to the head, or just watch my later video showing how to time it.
Hello got same one, mine was smoking a lot and running very rough and died withing seconds. I bought it as a non runner. I removed the head and noticed that the piston has what I consider a lot of play. You mentioned there is suppose to be play on it but how much is too much. It ricks back and forward. Thanks a lot your videos are great.
so i really hope u see this steve lol. i am doing my headgaskets cause a ehaxsy stud broke off. when taking the tensor out the inner part just sprung out and booop into the case. can i take the stator cover off and get it out? i hope so.
Just seeing this now. I do not think you can get to a screw dropped into the crankcase through there. If its where me, I'd drain the oil, then see if you can snake one of those inspection cameras down there to see if its sitting in the bottom.maybe you can grab it with one of those grabbers that has a small claw on the ends you open by pushing a button on the other end. User the camera to see where you are.
@@stevewatr not a screw.the trnsorner peice came out.i got the spring but that metal peice went down.tryed to find fish magnet it out but nope. I have gaskets coming anyway so the stator side can come off and I was ganna do oil anyway.
@@stevewatr just needed to know if it would be in there. But I was told it should be.just have to take that cover off.extra step.i am following your videos lol. Opening a shop soon but nice to have the info. And yes. Going to make sure I put the o ring on the cylinder first lol. But I got no ring compressor atm so just got to squeeze them in and make sure ring gaps are offset.
@@Mud_Dragon yeah, the magnet wants to stick to everything down in there except the part you are trying to grab. That's when the little claw parts grabbers are a help
GREAT VIDEO STEVE THANK YOU .PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM...THE ENGINE KEEPS BLOWING OFF MY CARBURATOR OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD CAN YOU GIVE ME POINTERS ON HOW TO ADJUST MY INTAKE VALVES ATLEASE I WAS TOLD THATS WHAT IT COULD BE ...IT'S THE ame ebgine you have there it only has one thousand some odd miles on it .....THANK YOU ..TOM
+COZMICTOM Hi Tom. Valve clearance might be your problem. Mine sometimes "coughs" hard out the intake, mainly when trying to give it gas before it has sufficiently warmed up. But improper fuel mixture due to a blocked carb passage, or leaking rubber boot allowing engine to suck air cam cause this. Also, ignition timing issues from a sheared woodruff key can cause this.
