Most Tech's won't entertain the length's you go too! What I usually do with the drive pulley is remove the pulley then cut a small slot in the top of the motor shaft, replace pulley then fill with epoxy, the slot gives the epoxy something to drive against and not slip on the end of the shiny motor shaft, works every time and I've repaired units that have gone on for many years, another thing I've done is find some steel tubing cut a piece off the end making a sleeve then push it onto the inner part of the pulley effectively making the pulley a tighter fit on the motor shaft, only problem of course is finding tubing with just the right inner size to squeeze it enough, of course if cheap skate manufacturers made the pulley from metal the problem wouldn't exist but that would of course put pennies on the cost of manufacture, built to fail, then you buy another unit, our sad throw away society! thank you for all your advice teaching, time and wisdom I enjoy watching all your vid's, it's always a pleasure, keep healthy and safe in these trying times.
Ran into a similar problem fixing a Panasonic SU-CH40 double cassette deck, had to tear off 5 times before fixing it for good. The mechanism was a pain in the a**. Awesome fix, Love from Hunza Valley Pakistan 💓.
Nice work oiling that control motor, that was the correct amount. I would have also lubed the reel motor while it was sitting in my hand. The reel pully is nylon, a drop of cyano right on the split would have wept in and adhered it to the shaft nicely, the epoxy on the end will prevent it from moving inboard but not towards the cover where it was rubbing. I own two of these decks and could machine a new brass pully if your customer ever finds he needs one, 3D printing is for prototype work, not finished parts.
Similar Sankyo mechanism in entry level Naks like bx125 had this pulley made of brass, not plastic. So it might be not that unrealistic to find a replacement for the part that will last. Though it will require some luck, of course, to find a Nak, even an entry-level one, or its mechanism to sacrifice it as a donor :)
I can always learn something from videos like this. I put new belts and a new idler wheel in my Nakamichi RX-202. A tough job for one who has never done so before. In fact never really worked on cassette tape decks at all. Well after putting it all back together it worked but never right, not ever. Thought maybe I put in the wrong parts but bought them from a "high end" seller, high end price too. Supposedly original Nakamichi parts. Anyway I was about to buy another deck because I want to play my tapes man ! Was looking at buying one of these Yamaha K-1020's and decided to look at videos to see what I might run into if I bought it. Watched this video and when you said that a lot of people put that black, back metal plate on and not in the groves properly then said it could cause all sorts of problems, eating tapes, not playing excreta I paused the video right away and went and checked my work. Guess what, I did not have that plate back in the grooves. Fixed it and have not had one single problem since and the deck sounds marvelous!
Watching you take that motor apart reminds me of when I was a little kid and got a hold of some of these motors from Radio Shack. I remember opening one up and my dad teaching me what the internals were. Ended up doing my 1st grade science fair project on how this type of motor worked.
Very good video! I completely identify with all the niggling opening-up and putting-back of the transport. It's one fix after the other - the problem of course, is that everything is ageing in slow motion, and at different rates. Excellent stuff!
This video came up as I'm searching for clues on minor issues that I can handle. No answers in this one, though I stuck around when I saw my own all-too-familiar "grudge" to get the durned thing going again properly (hence my research right now). Thanks for posting this, I appreciate seeing your work.
Smashing repair dave, that was more faulty than i expected. I thought after the frozen motor was fixed, it would be happy. No chance :-(. When a machine/device belongs to me, i will try many ways to make it work. I know you don't give up with your vintage machines :-D
Nice video in 53:14 you could test the idler without putting the cover to see how is behaving you only need to open the right switch to simulate a cassette is in it was important to view the idler gyrating
Great job….looks like a bit of a nightmare. I’ve got a KX-800u from the same series that luckily has been solid but mine is single capstan. Enjoy your videos keep up the good work (from the UK).
@Taco - They seem to last forever and work very well when the record and playback circuits are accurately calibrated to them. I have had not problems working on, aligning and calibrating the GX heads.
That was a tough repair work. Nobody else would have discovered its fault and gone thru what you did. Excellent technician and patience. Enjoyed watching it thru, though heart-aching ,when you had to open it like 3 times. Best song fits for this video is that 1993 song, " Dont break my heart, My ache breaky heart". LOL!
3 times? More like 5 or 6. Lots was cut. I didn't show demagnetisinf or renewing the rubber idler or a bunch of other stuff. I worked in this piece of shit for 4 hours.
@@12voltvids Oh! I sympathize you worked on it like, for 4 hours. We all felt your pain and the stress and shared it amongst ourselves as we watched. I am from Hobart in Tasmania, Australia. I enjoy watching your videos daily. You are the only person who fix things properly and others are never as good as you . Furthermore you seem to know what is the issue with little info. I like your brains. Good diagnostic. Look forward to your next video. Cheers and enjoy your weekend.
Mu metal. It's a nickel/iron alloy uses for magnetic shielding. It's required because you don't want stray magnetic fields around your magnetic heads. Good way to magnetize them.
Sometimes taking off the mu metal will reveal the real manufacturer and part number sticker underneath. Remember working on something and company telling me part not available so was going to take apart to see if I could fix. Found a motor right away with the original part number hidden under the mu metal.
Your right Dave about spare parts the parts I've replace on that unit is drive belt and idler rubber wheel, my idler drive gear has a crack and I cannot find one so I put a drop of crazy glue on it.
Brilliant repair As always, and on playback 📼🎵 absolutely no Wow and Flutter this unit was So worth the repair for the newer units are terrible, to listen to a track as you've playback in a deck that has cheap components would not be pleasant, and again its an incredible repair, Well done indeed.
This one going back up on bench. I am not happy with the idler. Caught it before sending back. I usually burn in units for a few days and in my cold garage the idler is slipping. Might need something under the tire to increase its size.
I have owned several decks with built in DBX like the Teac V-800X and an Akai R-60 that would record in both directions with DBX. Having owned the DBX 224 outboard processor since 1983 I would have to say the outboard unit has always sounded better than any of the built in units. Yes, you need to record about 10 db hotter with DBX.
Great job on repair, I own k-1020 and dbx is the best noise reduction it just has to be recorded hot around 16db max peak per Yamaha's manuel and can only be played back on a dbx unit.
That's right. Only plays on dbx. That's why i keep 2 dbx decks running myself. My old mix tapes are all in dbx. I even had a dbx cassette deck in the car at one time.
Indeed the only Dolby classic (now known Dolby B) could be played in a machine that didn't have Dolby and still sound normal (minus the slightly higher than normal trebles) tinny I think it is called. I'm not sure how Dolby S would sound on a machine that doesn't have any Dolby at all. I have a Pioneer dual deck that has Dolby S but I never tried any sound tests never thought about it until now after watching this video LOL. It definitely would be best played back with Dolby S compatible equipment. I've read that Dolby S just came out way to late in the scheme of things as CD had established itself extremely well at the time of Dolby S was introduced. I also read a person would have a VERY DIFFICULT time distinguishing Dolby S vs CD. Perhaps there are some out there that can share personal experiences concerning Dolby S.
Love the repair and Love the music at the.Im using S10e phone that has 2 awesome speakers. The music at the end is great and came through the video intact in its quality. That's your end video music . I'm assuming it's royalty free music since you played the whole track. Thanks 😊 Good Video 😎.
Yes licensed musicbakery track. Royalty free. I have an s10e as my work phone. Have had it only one week, first day I got it I broke the glass on the back before I was able to get a case for it. Broke it the first day I got it my boss won't be happy, put it in an OtterBox with a protective glass screen protector. Really stupid design Samsung on that one with the fingerprint scanner on the power button the case has to be cut away to access the button which leaves the screen vulnerable. Carrying the phone in my pocket with change has now cracked the screen. So brand new phone one week old the glass of the back is smashed and the screen has a lovely crack across it absolute stupid design. Had an s8 for 5 years, and my personal phone is an s9. Never any issues with the s9 other than the battery is starting to lose capacity. Don't know what I'm going to do when I need to get a new phone because one thing I need is an SD card slot and none of the new ones have it
I need help with this strange issue, I've bought a 1995/6 Toshiba CRT TV online and it comes up with nothing except when using the OSD in which case just a single line appears in the centre of the screen. But when I moved the TV or gave it a little whack, a picture started to immerge but only on a third of the screen and the image was scrolling downwards constantly. Then after the tube warmed up if you had the TV in the right position the picture would fill the entire screen as it should but it's very unstable and it's in black and white (apart from the OSD which is still in colour.) I then decided to clean out the inside of the TV (which it needed!) and then tested it again but the same problem occured and this time no change at all when moved or warmed up. So now I have no idea what the problem is but bear in mind that when I bought the TV online, the pictures showed it working perfectly fine with no apparant issues so I think that either something came loose during shipping or an internal component just gave up out of nowhere. Audio works completely fine however.
@Taco it wasn't clipping. You obviously don't know much about dbx. It likes to be worked hot. Just why do you think those Meyers go to +20? Dbx beings the quiet sounds up and compresses the loud sounds and reverses that on playback. Those maxell tapes are good for +4 easily so that is +8 with dbx. Also Yamaha calibrate their meters low. They are also peak reading meters not VU which are calibrated for average which is only about 70% of the peak value. The thing with analog tape is you can push it. With hx pro you can push harder because the bias reduces under high signal levels. If you hear any distortion then that was RU-vid compression because i certainly didn't hear any when i listened with my koss studio cans on. I have a very critical ear to distortion.
RU-vid kills the audio quality saving space not only audio but in video too compressing all of it. I remember watching many videos that the camera mic causes distortion when Dave cranks up the volume testing some amps he's worked on. He has even commented about it before (the camera microphone can't reproduce the sound he hears during testing). What matters is he knows what he's hearing and knows if it sounds like it should.
Do you think these unobtainable parts might benefit from 3D printing of course only for something really worth it . Those decks go for like $600 Australian, I have a K-2000 missing a door and the Power and Record buttons perfectly functional with balanced outputs inputs as well as RCA's. Had I waited till the end I would have shut up .
There is no need to put an entire roll of packing tape on it. That is in the OCD range the amount of tape on that. Wrap in bubble wrap. One loop of tape each way, the bubble wrap is not going anywhere. It's nice to be able to reuse the wrap to send back. Same with boxes. Seal the seams. Customs is generally going to open stuff and they are not that gentle when they encounter excessive packing. In fact when they see something wrapped like they that think someone is concealing stuff. Trust me on this one. My sister was a customs agent for over 30 years. She could tell you a thing or 2 about how people try to hide stuff and the first give away is something wrapped up like that. They see that and they get real interested in what's inside. No not everything gets inspected but I certainly have had many devices being sent in for repairs which have got a custom sticker on it indicating that they did open it and every time it was the package that was wrapped like this and they just cut all through all the bubble wrap and throw it back in the box and put like one strip of tape across it with their little seal to indicate that they opened it. So in other words don't package something like you're sending drugs because it will get attention.
I had the same problem with my K 1020 and took the motor apart to lubricate. In process of reassembling the motor, I broke off one of the tiny carbon brushes on one of the leads. Can this be glued back on carefully or am I SOL and need new motor? Great video by the way.
Hey Sir, I admire your knowhow and experience with this old tech, I have 3 hi8 tapes I need digitized before January 1st where can I send my tapes to you for digitization?
@@seacampal1425 well if their audio components are anything like their motorcycles. We will leave it at that. I used to call mine a yama-ha-ha. It was a joke. So many problems. Fork seals, steering bearing, stator, stator, starter, stator, fork seals, clutch, starter again, stator again. That was all within 3 years. Every time i turned around that piece of shit was broken. Got a Harley, never looked back. Has not been trouble free either compensator failed and took out other parts and rear tire blew but that was road hazard damage.
I have Yamaha k-1020. It has all the functions working except it stops after a few seconds of playing. What is causing that? I think it the motor that drives the take up reels. What do you think?
Hello, Sir! How are you? Hope all is fine. I have double deck HI-FI VCR, IT'S POWER SUPPLY HAS BEEN DAMAGE, So, can you fix that VCR For me please? I AM WAITING FOR YOUR REPLY, THANK YOU.
@@seventeesweremagic Let me tell you a little story that came back to bite me in the ass about 20 years ago. I fell into the capacitor trap. Had a customer (This was when i still worked at the shop) that brought his amplifier in for service. He knew better than us because he read somewhere that capacitors more than 15 years were all shot and "must" be replaced. I remember the call well because I can remember the customer arguing with the shop owner at the service counter that he wanted all the capacitors replaced. Spare no expense he said change them all. I was happy to do that I changed every electrolytic capacitor in his amplifier and he paid a couple hundred dollars and back then yeah that was a lot of money I think that labor was probably around $200 and another 100 or so for his audiophool grade caps. That unit which sounded just fine to my ears because I did listen to it became my worst nightmare. I became married to that unit that unit came back probably four or five times over the next month or so because it didn't sound right. I would hook it up play it send it out no fault found back it would come. The guy was demanding his money back, the guy was filing chargebacks on his credit card, which eventually he got and the boss took my commission which would have been a hundred bucks off of my paycheck saying well I had to give him a refund. I have since done full recaps only twice since then and both were on equipment that I owned and I can't say that on either of them I noticed any appreciable improvement in the sound in fact the last one I did was only a couple years ago on my luxman LV 103 then I service right here on my channel I went back and put the original caps in that unit because I wasn't happy with the sound that the new ones provided. if someone brings me a piece of equipment and says change all the Caps I'll do it and I'll charge it accordingly but I tell them right up front if you're not happy with how it sounds after this is done don't come back because I won't work on it and in those cases I will accept cash only. I have been doing this long enough, experience tells me that total cap replacement is a waste of time and money. A waste of my time and a waste of my clients money. Sure i will make more from the repair and that's why many shops will upsell you and tell you that you need to change them all because it's a money maker for them but for me I'm not in this to make money. I retired from the electronics service business I do this now more as a hobby and as a teaching moment for viewers not to make money. I don't need the money and what I make repairing equipment would amount to me paying myself $10 an hour tops. So think about that the next time someone tells you you need to change all the caps they're thinking about their own financial interest and not as a way to improve anything. If a cap is gone it will cause a failure and changing that one cap will fix the problem. You don't need to change all the rest as preventative maintenance because 99% will never fail even if they're 40 years old if they've lasted 40 years they'll probably last another 40. The exception to this rule is the wax paper capacitors used in vacuum tube equipment they all have to be replaced because they go electrically leaky, but this is not an issue in low voltage capacitors used in solid state equipment.
I think it was more than just oil to make that motor run, because you say it was only drawing 0.4A and no torque. If it was sticking because of a lack of lube then the current would be more. Maybe when you took it apart you dislodged some dirt from the brushes?
@@12voltvids A little D-100 probably would't hurt on the commutator, like you do for the mode switches. Don't know if that would eat the brushes however. May have some sparking there.
@@12voltvids OK, that explains why the current was low before you took it apart. Dirty commutator. Maybe oil had got on to it. Any, well done for all the fixes. I have a similar Yamaha, (now in the attic!) and will look out for that cracked plastic bush, if I use it again. Good video, watched it all.
It's not the mystery. The same problems occusr from time to time in kenwood kx-9010/1100 with the same sankyo tape transport. Because it's sankyo motor. Mabushi motors have been lived till today in jvc decks from the same 80th period.
Holy crap! You should have got a piece of cheese after unwrapping that bast*rd! Love your videos Dave keep up the good work . Next time somebody does some crap like this to you put anticipation by Carly Simon in the background.
considering these only sell for 100-200 working on ebay the guy went way overboard on the packing heck one sold brand new in the box just a couple months ago for $300
Well I don't agree there no more parts avaiable for Cassette decks. I still can obtain parts when I need those for my Studer A721 and Revox B215. Didn't have any problems so far with those machines, they will last forever. No belts, Idler or whatever. 4 motors that's it.
Try and find a new motor for nakamichi or idler for any number of cassette decks. They just are not available. New parts, not worn out pulls. Your studers will eventually break down and you will be in the same boat.
@@12voltvids I'm not into Nakamichi. In there you will find the standard motors and idler. Like I said my macchines don't have BELTS and Idler. Everything is direct drive. And believe me, those motors are still avaiable
@@showstopperrob1097 My Technics and jvc units are direct drive. Still have a belt for the control cam. More motors doesn't necessarily make it better. Look at all the VCRs that had seperate direct drive reel motors and the headaches they had with snapped tapes.
@@12voltvids Im tool and Die maker for 40 years experience I would machine out of brass with setscrew hold in placed 10 mins on lathe youre dont can spit them out like candy NP.
People think that Japanese stuff from the '80s was great stuff. Believe me back in the '80s and 90s when we were servicing the stuff we didn't think it was great stuff. You should see the number of CD players and cassette decks and turntables and amplifiers and receivers things that people want to fix now that we condemned back when they were only five or six years old. People like to jump on the Chinese and say that they make crap but believe me as a servicer that went through the '80s and '90s into the 2000s there was just as much crap coming out of Japan. I used absolutely hate Yamaha and nakamishi because they're crap was hard to work on. Pulling the entire circuit board to solder some connections on the bottom that was Yamaha signature I hated Yamaha they might sound nice when they work but when they break they were a pain in the ass and I just despised them. I despise nakamishi 2 because I was an authorized warranty servicer I couldn't turn them down they paid well but they were a pain in the ass to work on and they were a pain in the ass to deal with. The only good thing about nakamishi was we could build them whatever we wanted and they would pay whereas companies like Sony or Panasonic or Yamaha had a cap of $55 to fix a receiver and that was all they would pay I think VCRs we got 60 bucks from Sony 55 from Panasonic and 80 for camcorders and that's all they would pay it didn't matter how long you spent on it. At least not to meet you if you spent 3 hours fixing a dragon for example they'd pay you a couple hundred bucks if you build them that.
I am surprised at Yamaha using a low end motor and mechanism. There were plenty of good cassette decks made without paying Nakamichi prices, Denon and Sony ES were among the better ones. Some decks including the infamous Nakamichi Dragon are not easy to repair, you can spend many hours trying to fix all the faults.
Nakamichi decks were cheap garbage. A perfect example where cost does not mean better quality. Just bigger profits. Go look at a jvc tdv 1010 if you want to say holy shit that's a good deck. Same with some high end Sony's and Technics. Yamaha, nakamichi sanyo Kenwood ect had some pretty shoddy mechanisms.
@@12voltvids I thought JVC stood for Junk Very Cheap. Anyway, I think that benchmarking equipment some 30 years after its average life expectancy is pretty pointless to say the least. And the fact that some are easier to service than others doesn't directly relate to their quality or durability.
@@12voltvids They may have been "garbage" but here in the UK they were very expensive and i agree way overpriced. As for the better JVC decks, they were never available in the UK. The best we could buy were the better Denon, Pioneer and Sony ES. Tandberg only made one decent deck but again expensive. The UK was starved of the better high end decks, the Sony ES one that i had was a personal import from Japan, way better than the models sold in europe. The same applied to Laserdisc players i had to import my Pioneer HLD-X9 from Japan, far superior to the flimsy mass market models.
@@mihaischitcu1917 Most JVC models were aimed at the low to mid mass market samples. Only the US and Japan had the higher end ones, and they were expensive.
No, it is musicbakery royalty free. Now that's not saying that some pornographer couldn't use it. The theme from the people's court, and for that matter talk show host jack Webster's TV show was used in a porn movie. Not that i watched it but someone that rented it from the video store I worked at for about a month told me. If i remember the title was alpha blue or something like that, on end credits. Lol now someone will be looking that up to confirm.
That broken button is no doubt from your "slamming" the package around as you were opening it. I must say, you're not very considerit with other people's property.
Horror unpacking...not like that attitude to hifi... Btw...1020 and 1200 are nice units but not even close to a 1010...even series before digifine 711 is not close to 1010....this is rare deck with sound in class of better Naks
If you had to spend 10 minutes unwrapping something you would be a little annoyed too. It was aparantly done by an over zealous worker at ups where he packed it up. Literally half a roll of tape used.
It doesn't take much to sound better than a nak. Nak were always overrated tape decks. There were many from Sony, jvc, Technics and Yamaha that performed better in listening tests. I used to go to these tape deck blind test seminars. It was mostly directed at sales people. Manufactures would put on trade shows where you could listen. The ces is Vegas is the biggest, but there were smaller events as well mostly sponsored by manufactures. Anyway it was always interesting to listen to different equipment and try to pick which one sounded the best. They would have the deck covered up and you listened to recordings made on that deck from the same source (CD usually) with headphones and switch from one to the other. After you picked the one that had the most pleasing sounding they would pull the screen and you would see what you were listening to. It was always the manufactures brand put up against a random unit from another company but you never knew what you would get because they had a stack of decks and the guy running it would plug them at random for each test. When i did it I never picked a nak as having the best sound.
I use to do this kind of work and it's just not worth the time and money. Even if the customer wants to pay, you can fix the whole thing give it back and a week or month later somethin else goes bad. Then the customer wants you to fix it for free. When the manufacturer fixes it they would have replaced the whole mechanism. I use to work for a printer Co. and that's what's we did.
That's right. That's what we call a boomarang. Last thing one wants is to get married to old shit. That's why i told that guy with the philips 880 CD player to take it away. He bugged me for about 3 years before he took it away and is taking it to someone else. If you remember that one you remember what a dog's breakfast it was inside.
China or not! Nothing gets rusty if you clean and oil after it being wet. Btw it's also annoying to hear again and again how bad Chineese products are. It's only a fraction i my experience. Don't get my started on bad products from North America!
Stunned to listen to a 15 minute rant because you're too cheap to use new packing material or just make 1 cut through. followed by "mine is "better". Clean your bench and be grateful!
WOW, another one who doesn't appreciate what you do for your work showing how to fix almost anything. Karma Dave. Folks always get back what they give. Just remember all the folks that really appreciate your efforts and guidance in keeping their stuff working for their enjoyment. I know you know it takes all kinds to make the world go round.
@@12voltvids I was being silly and sarcastic with my remark LOL and yeah they certainly wanted the unit WELL protected. I wish a cassette deck ebay special I bought had been wrapped that well it wasn't and it was dropped somewhere damaged the front corner which happened to be on the mechanism side which I had to work with a lot to restore smooth functionality. It still has damage on the aluminum face on that corner. It's a Sony TC-FX7 cassette deck VERY nice for its day PLL direct drive capstan. The only deck I've EVER had that played back with ZERO drift from a digitally recorded source (computer) stayed in perfect sync, I've NEVER EVER had a belt driven capstan unit do that. Anyway I was hoping to give you a chucke with my sarcasm and silliness of 30 minute to unwrap 30 minute repair. I read your comment to another poster about it being on the bench for about 4 hours. Again just being silly and having fun after enjoying your videos.
@@darinb.3273 I was referring to the original poster about it being 15 minutes to unwrap. But seriously though the wrapping with an entire roll of packing tape was overkill. good thing it didn't go in for secondary customs inspection because they would have found all that wrapping a little bit suspicious as that's usually how drugs are packed how do I know this? My sister worked in the mailroom at Canada customs for a number of years and would give packages that were wrapped up a much closer inspection. when they inspect it like to be able to open the package and see what's inside clearly and if it's wrapped up in 10 layers of bubble wrap with each layer half a roll of tape on well they think there might be something there that needs a closer look.
