Yamaha MT07: How to Change Oil in 4 Minutes (DONE RIGHT) 

LOL

Yeah! THANKS

OMG rly? hahah I also have a 690 SMC R and partially I can understand.. ;) Thank You!

@@torquemasters97 Yes, With the original "link pipe" the cat is wider than the engine and thus when emptying the oil it fills upp the whole cat then spills everywhere. I might have been lazy and done that once ;)

You're welcome

Just had same problem lol.. filter stuck as fck.. unscrewed it with a tool that i just bought 😂

@@Imaxiboy Mine was ok. Sprayed it with WD then just unscrewed it by hand.

You're welcome, congrats!

Thanks Bro, you are 100% right

Awesome user name BTW!

@@GretaTurdeau Thanks again Sir ✌🏻

I'm a bit dim. Can you explain what you mean in a bit more detail for me please? thanks.

@@Jethrot1982 Just fill the new filter with oil, let the oil soak in and repeat. If I recall correct it usually takes 3 or so fillings until it won't soak anymore oil.

Thanks a lot. For most motorcycles it is not necessary to change the air filter every year. In fact, it is sufficient to respect the time indicated in the use and maintenance book of the vehicle. The oil filter does not always have to be changed every year: for some motorcycles it is recommended to change it by skipping a year sometimes. Obviously if it is changed before nothing happens, simply you would not get detectable advantages. The fuel filter, on the other hand, should usually be changed after many years. For the mt07 I do not know there are other filters in general. Consider that there are many bikes with many more oil filters. Anyway, it's not a dumb question: consider that there are people who don't even ask themselfs those kind of questions ever in their life :)

Thank you. Maybe you've already done everything since I answer two months later anyway I wouldn't have too many problems for an engine like the cp2. I simply advise you to stick to what is written on the use and maintenance book.

No problem, I knew it might be useful to some! :)

The original one I think is not symmetrical, anyway It doesn't make any difference so you can't put It in the wrong way :)

I bought it from Yamaha, if the previous one has no signs of wear you could avoid replacing it.

It's the one recommended by the manufacturer

I bought all the stuff in the official Yamaha store in Lissone. They provided me everything. This year, however, I got the pieces myself by buying a copper washer of the right diameter from the hardware store. I bought the oil filter on Amazon not original but probably better than the original. K&N Filtro Olio Powersports - Avvitabile 66x71mm compatibile con Kawasaki, Honda, Triumph, Yamaha (KN-204-1) amzn.eu/d/fQrnlgR

In your place I wouldn't worry too much. It's possible you didn't get the old oil out all the way. If you tilt the bike a few degrees more, do you see the air bubble or do you only see oil?

@@torquemasters97 yeah if i tilt the bike just a bit to the right, i can see the oil level in the window

​@@PIZZAenjoyer8767 Everything should be ok so. It's the same in my case :)

The oil heating becomes less viscous, this causes it to come out more easily and faster and also carry the metal residues :)

In this case i used the original filter of Yamaha. Now I use the K&N filter because I can get It on Amazon without going to official Yamaha store. Plus, the K&N filter is better in my opinion :)

There is a specific reason although I'm not entirely sure: when you start the engine after installation, and every time you use the vehicle, with the high temperatures the gasket will adhere strongly to the contact point. A very strong seal will form which will require much more torque when removing the filter.

the vibrations tightens it

Vibration does not tighten screws, but the opposite. Yamaha states in the manual the oil filter torque to be 17 Nm. But you need a huge socket specific for filters. Also the drain bolt torque is 43 Nm.

Yamaha says you may skip a filter change once when you change the oil. I change it every year anyway :)

@@torquemasters97 cheers. Would you still remove it to drain the rest of the oil, or just leave it in to prevent deformation?

@@arrrrr9831 Nope, you can't do that because of the gasket. Once mounted, the gasket welds and melts at high temperatures. Since you cannot replace the gasket because it's welded to the filter, you must avoid dismantling the filter. If you dismantle the filter, both the gasket and the filter will be thrown away.. Honestly, it's not worth dismantling the filter just to let the oil inside it come out. The residues would still remain inside the filter. Even if you had to do it then you would have to replace the gasket and clean the contact points very well. So in your place I would leave the filter alone and change it the next time together with the gasket.

You are welcome

You are welcome Man!

2.6l, but always check the oil level!

All information is reported in the use and maintenance book. If you go on the internet everyone will give you their personal opinion which often coincides with the oil change after the appropriate period. I personally change it every year at the beginning of the season.

@@torquemasters97 i heard a lot of people prefer to Change it at the end of the season. Its because the particles/dirt in the old oil may damage so parts during the time standing still. Everyone to their own, but for me that makes sence. Stay safe and pardon my englisch ;)

@@Keldor_AT No problem, thanks for commenting. The point is that if the bike is stationary (often in winter) the residues cannot give problems. Otherwise, as far as I'm concerned, the humidity infiltrations (if the motorbike stays in the cold for a long time) remain. This is why I change the oil at the beginning and not at the end of the season. Bear in mind that my bike remains stationary for many months. Having said that, the things we are discussing are irrelevant details if the oil change is performed within the times established by the manufacturer. The latter is really what matters and really makes the difference in the end. If the times of the manufacturer are respected, everything else (such as changing it at the beginning or at the end of the season) goes a lot in the background. Have a nice day! :)

I don't know, did you read correctly?

@@torquemasters97I called a yamaha service they said 2.6L without changing the oil filter and 2.8L if you're changing the oil filter

@@knaps7790 Ah yes, ideally. In practice it's impossible to remove all the old oil that remains adhered to the walls and other engine components. Furthermore, first proceed to add a little oil, and only after, once the level has been checked, you add more oil if necessary. You can always add a little oil each time checking the level. If too much oil is added immediately, it becomes a problem to remove the excess.

Manual states 2.3 without changing the filter, 2.6 with the filter. Its easy to sump some oil with a syringe thru the filling cap.

@@impact0r I'm sorry. I was wrong. I'm sorry I answered arrogantly. The only thing is, I don't think it's a big mistake. The oil drained completely, just slower than opening the filler cap. However, it is more correct to open it as you say to speed up the procedure :)

@@torquemasters97 I agree it is not a big mistake. I will remove the that word from my original post.

Hahahah