I have been servicing Yamahas for 35 years now and you are making this job way to hard. First never had a Yamaha lower gearcase that I had to pay off even salt water motors, a little tap on the cavitation plate with the palm of your hand or a comp mallet gets them right off. Leave one bolt threaded in a short distance to keep the gearcase from falling. The retainer on top of the impeller is easily removed by using a small heal bar or large flat blade and a block of wood and working around the collar it comes right off no special tools required in turn tapping back down I use a 7/8" box end wrench works like a charm. Removing the key is also easy, I never have had to drill one out. Use a 1/4" flat punch to drive the bottom of the key in and the top of key will come out. Now the key has been dislodged take a #3 flat blade screw driver and drive down on the key. It has to be dull no chisels and it will come right out if they're not too tight I use a pair of end nips and grab it with downward movement and it's out. To install it use a small ball peen to start the key and finish up with your flat punch. Yamaha uses adhesive to set there orings and the cup liners grease makes a mess and doesn't secure the orings around the cover when rotating the impeller into the housing. I use 3M 847 rubber adhesive for this job. Use a very small amount in the groove install the oring and give a few minutes to cure. I can't tell you how many times I have found the oring pinched or torn and the motor was getting a over heat warning. Lastly a little silicone spray on the inside of the impeller let's it slide right on. I coat the Inside of the housing and impeller with glyserin available at Walmart makes rubber very slippery and it's water soluble and washes out on startup. Grease doesn't wash out can attack the impeller and at the lake Sand can mix with it and gum up the pump with abrasive. By the way only use spline grease on spline's. I have been a Yamaha tech sense 1984 when Yamaha outboards first came to the USA. and this is what has worked for me
Very nice to read someone who knows what he is doing and does not make things so hard, I tried to replace a impeller and made a mess of it by using Permatex to hold things like the O-ring in, but I was working on a 1997 Evinrude Oceanpro which is a bear as far as I was concerned, spent a lot of money and still had to take it to the shop, could not get the linkage hooked back up to save me. I have so much respect for mechanics,I can quote law and enforce it but I cannot work on an impeller.Thanks for the input.
@@1DesertCop Evinrude and Johnson shift shafts are the hardest to reinstall and not for the DYI guys, some model's are difficult even for a experienced tech.
Any thoughts on deleting the oil system on a 90 200hp yam? It failed and almost blew my engine up. Can I just take the drive part out of the pump and leave all the hoses connected ?
Excellent video. I watched it twice and then replaced the water pump in my Yamaha F150 without any hiccups. Thanks Marine Tech Tools. Much appreciated.
Thanks for this video. I just bought a 1999 pontoon boat with a 1994 Yamaha 115 V4 and I had to replace the totally fried water pump. Took it out for a test run today and it ran amazingly well. Very helpful info in here!
Your video was EXCELLENT! Very good walkthrough on every important detail...It helped me tremendously...New water pump and all new seals....Never worked better.. Thanks!
So I decided to tackle the 100 hrs/Annual service myself (2015 Sportsman 251 Heritage 2x Yamaha F150). After watching a couple of your videos, i started, a bit of a learning curve but I am pretty good at figuring things out. Everything I did on one engine took me less than half the time on the second, figures, confidence level is up! Everything went as shown on the video. All the bolts removed were wire brushed and threads cleaned with a drill with a SS wire brush (cheap at Harbor freight tools as you will ruin them). They were fighting me coming out but then putting them back in was piece of cake, hand tight then torque wrench. Looked up all the torque settings. Clearly the last mech did not do that and didn't grease the bolts. Patience was need to remove the collar a bobo et the impeller but about 10 minutes and done. But here is were your video really saved me from going nuts, the woodruff key. On the first engine it would not budge. Then I remembered your trick, drilled it some, took the air hammer ti it and out she went, fantastic trick, would have never thought of it myself. Second engine when i made the mark to drill the key moved and got it out easier. Your video is right on and the best i have seen, followed your instructions and done. 12 hours total, yes I am slow but at the current shop prices and buying my own parts (all Yamaha) I'm in it for about $600 versus my local dealer would have charged me about $2,000. This includes: thermostat and gasket, fuel water separator, fuel filter, oil filter, oil for engine and lower unit, pump for lower unit, water pump kit complete with housing ( mine were bad!). Last years service at the dealer cost me $1,800. Your video Rock! Thank you.
The other video's I watched (and unfortunately went by) did not mention the Wave Washer between the two Plate Washers OR the importance of lifting the drive shaft while setting the Drive Shaft Collar.Luckily I haven't put the boat in the water so I am going to take it back apart and fix things.Thank You so much for having such a detailed video.
Thanks for the video, it's good to know what I'm up for so I can decide if I will do it myself or take it to a dealer. It's a big thumbs up from me. Rick
THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I have watched video after video on how to get these apart and everybody talks about the 7 bolts but not the 8th one. I have been trying to get mine apart for hours until I seen you talk about the 8th bolt and sure as crud I had a 8th bolt! I removed it and it fell apart!!!! Thank you!!!!
Brobins75 got it right when he said use a Drexel and cut it up the middle. I tried pb blaster,tapping both ends to loose it, I drilled it and I finally tried cutting it with a Dremel. It doesn't leave a lot on either side to grab so I used a very thin wedge and tapped the sides in with that. No damage to the key way either!
A PVC pipe with an interior diameter of 1" worked like a charm to get that washer collar seated by the way. Pull up on the drive shaft while pushing down with the PVC pipe and it seated perfectly.
Excellent video and excellent comments. This is great for those of us needing to see this done. The first time I had my impeller replaced by a mechanic we had a rattle. They fixed the rattle. Did it myself this time, same thing, I have a rattle. Not sure if it's from not pulling on the shaft hard enough to get the play out or how far down I need to tap that piece on top of the impeller when pulling on it. Any suggestions would be great.
Man changing the waterpump on my 2002 honda outboard 13 years later was still a breeze .Now i have a Yamaha and it looks like it could be a Real Pain!!.Good Video think you should have put some rags in the water intake before drilling .Those metal shavings are going to get sucked up into the new impeller
Used a hefty cold chisel and ball pein hammer to gently tap it out. The chisel does the heavy lifting. When it comes loose grab key with pliers and use hammer to finish removing it. Water pump kit has new key. Grease the slot and the key before replacing. Only issue I had was the large o ring for the white cover did not want to stay in place because of newness. When I rotated shaft replacing housing it went on smoothly and snug. I did not see any sign of o ring protruding around the paper gasket.
GREAT Videos....Thank you from the DIY preventive maintenance folks.... question does a freshwater static\cold flush travel through ALL the same passages as a warm\earmuff engine running flush?
Great video. Those woodruff keys can definitely be a bear. Had one that actually sheared flush with the shaft & had to drill and dremel, after hitting it with PB blaster. My only comment would be to place rags underneath when drilling so the filings do not fall into the chambers. I realize the bearings are still encased, but still prefer to keep these areas clean. Thanks for posting
I am currently trying to remove my woodruff key. Same issue. Totally sheared off and appears to be welded in and not removeable. I am currently slowly using dremel cutting discs to create a place for the new woodruff key. What a hassle.
To remove the woodruff key on my 115, I used a small jewelers screwdriver and a hammer, The screwdriver was narrow enough to fit in the slot behind the key & after a few taps with the hammer, I was able to pry the key out.
Regarding the wire cutters, are you saying to hold the cutters upside-down/vertically (handles up), then grab the top of the key and pry it out? Sound like a great idea.
no grease in cup! it whips up, never washes away, and collects sand! also the key shouldnt be that hard. if it is, maybe use a dremel w a cutoff wheel to slit the center of the key, then a pair of visegrips will crush it and it will fall out....
If the speedometer tube is broke will it stop the pee function when flushing? Is there video on replacing the speedometer hose? Ours is broke off right where it goes into the lower housing.
how do you put seals on the Tilt hydraulic cylinder? 2006 250. does the top T come off or the bottom unscrew from the shaft once its apart? i don't want to damage anything
Great video showing the steps. One question I have regarding the seals in that old water pump housing. The drive shaft has a groove which appears to have been caused by the old seals. Would it have been better to replace that housing with a new one that has new seals in it?
Translation: 1st verbatim: "super video and thank you for doing this. i will do the same thing on my Yamaha V4 115hp". 2nd meaning: " Super video thanks for making it. I'll do the same on my Yamaha V4 115hp." That's the best translating French-English I can do. I might be wrong on the tense on the second sentence, it may read "I have done" verses "I will do"; I think it's future tense.
I broke my speedometer cable fitting yesterday. What happens if I left that just broke off because when I lowered it into the bucket after changing the water pump I had oil in the water and on the foot at the waterline. Is it because I did not replace that fitting and just left it open. Can oil come out of that fitting and can I since I do not use a speedometer and it is blocked off just plug it? Rather than purchase the fittings for the speedometer cable I never use. I only ran the motor a few minutes in the bucket to test the water pump saw the oil and stopped.
could you take a small triangle file and cut a shallow channel on side of woodruff key to allow any excess grease or air to escape? Why did you leave the propellor on? That is a little extra weight you didn't need to fight. You must have a reason.
After installing the water pump on vf115, and reinstalling the lower unit. I put the motor in the water, I'm getting water and exhaust in the shift tube. Is this normal? where did I go wrong?
"Compartilhando conhecimento"isso se chama. Claro que todas as dicas,macetes etc são bem aceitas...mas,a técnica de aplicação nos serviços muda de cada profissional,cada um tem sua maneira.
I’ve had luck with the key with taking a pair of vice grips, welding on a nut at the adjustment end, and screwing in a small slide hammer. Snap it on and yank it out.
I advocate using never seize on all bolts. The 4 water pump housing bolts and the 7-8 lower housing bolts should be coated with never seize. The bolt into the trim tab could be lubed with die electric but not never seize or grease. It must transmit electricity.
If you have to replace the housing, is the seal for the water pickup installed inside the housing already or is it a separate purchase? 2015 Yamaha 200.
Good video, very informative but for a professional shop I am surprised not to see a spray can of penetrating fluid, a can of anti-seize lubricant, or a parts cleaner sink, and a brass hammer to knock in the woodrift key.
Excellent video as always!! Keep the good work... I have done this to my F40, but left it to neutral. After reinstalled the lower unit, the prop is stuck. Doesn't move left or right. What can I do? Thanks
wazup3333 two flathead screwdrivers resting on two sockets that are around the height of the part. Use the sockets to pry against. Pry carefully from both sides and it should pop up. If it’s really stuck cut it with a dremel tool and replace the plastic spacer and stainless ring. Less than 20.00 at any Yamaha dealer.
on that boat, is water supposed to go in and out of the back splashwell and kind of self drain, or is it supposed to the sealed off with drain plugs... I have an 86 bayliner that is made that way, and water comes in there.
I got stuck when my woodruff key won't budge; it required major surgery! Question: how do you get the orings on the housing to stay in place when reassembling? My orings are real loose and will not stay in place. Should I use a spray adhesive or Permatex material to hold it in place? Thanks.
If the key is stuck, I read that you can use a Dremmel to cut a slot down the center of the key, then squeeze the two halves together and the key will pop right out. Need to be careful not to cut too deep and cut the shaft.
Do not put to mutch grease on the bolts the air in the bolt holes can build up kinetic energy and crack the alumin(i)um! and instead of grease on the rubber impeller use vaseline it stays in place longer and wont not hurt marine life
nice job. but 2 things.... im pretty much an idiot, so correct me if im wrong... 1. Are u sure u want to use grease inside the cup? MAYBE around the o-rings, but have you seen what happens to a little bit of grease once the impeller whips it up inside the cup? It turns into butter, which can possibly clog s*** up.... i sometimes use dish soap inside the cup and it will just wash away. maybe im going overboard. 2. howz about using a punch on the key and give it a good whack a few times. i know its frozen sometimes. thats when i get out the dremmel and grinding small grinding disk and grind a slit right down the middle of the key. Then grip w a pair of vise grips and "crush" it in half. works perfect and no nicking the shaft. it instantly falls out.... but good job and thorough.
When removing the impeller itself then when I remove the base plate and the gasket under it, am I able to remove it without taking the keyway out.? I have a Y115 also its important to have that key way even when you replace it correct? so as to when you replace the impeller down onto it it glides into place easy and not get jammed up.
you said (15:55) "yamaha unique addition is wave washer assembly." Does that mean it is optional because I did not receive the wave washer assembly with my new water pump?
Talk about not scratching paint When re installing the drive but Yes just slide that drive onto those forks with no carpet, scratch that customers paint! Yeah buddy!
Quick question, on the Speedo tube that is near the shift shaft, if I do not replace the hose back onto that, will that cause serious issues? I don’t even use the route that goes into the Yamaha digital gauges, so I was wondering if I could bypass putting that back on. I’m sure I just need to put it back on but when working by myself it’s hard to get the route put back on the nipple, and get a zip tie on it so I’m just wondering how important that is. Thanks.
I am a fiberglass and refinishing guy and I don’t mess with any engines other than my own so that’s why I don’t know, I am pretty clueless for the most part when it comes to outboards. I did do the whole repair of all the oil seals using your tool on my own 2003 ox66 so I was competent enough to at least do the seals.
Where can I get one of those upper seal puller you have? If I cant, how do I get the parts off that would be pulled with that puller? also how do we know if the shirt changer is in neutral on the lower unit before installing back? forgot to mention I'm doing mine on a 2013 115 4 stroke
@@bobbell5928 you pay for asshole? Figured it out made my own. Everything is running smooth. Idiots Like you Bob cant think for themselves and cave and that's why we have outrageous labor prices
@@Bushgator I agree to do it yourself some professional time strapped mechanic can screw up just about anything. There are situations to take it in but water pumps, spark plugs, filters better off doing it yourself.
