Yamaha V6 4.2lt 500hrs service video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-89zrHiiGZ0M.html Please subscribe and like thank you 🙏 CAPTAiNSALTY Instagram instagram.com/captainsalty777/
Thank you for your video. I'm at 64 hrs on my motor so I will be doing the maintenance myself so between yours and another one I watched I should be able to do it all with more confidence. I will replace everything while I have it apart. I noticed a few things you didn't change out that I will do. Thanks very much for the info. I got a price from the mechanics shop where I purchased the boat from. I have a yamaha 200hp. They wanted 985.00 to do the complete job. I haven't priced it out yet but I think under 250.00 I can do it for using genuine yamaha parts. Tight lines......
Great video. I’ve (happily) had an Evinrude 200 etec and never dealt w/oil or plugs. F300 yammie on my boat on order. You’ve given me the confidence to do the basics. I think I’ll leave that impeller to my mechanic tho :). Cheers
GOOD JOB BRO! complete check up. this would really help a lot of people to do some maintenance on their own! you should've explained about the 6.3 liter oil and the dip stick if its sufficient enough between the two dots! but overall video it was great!
Thanks i know it look like too much tightened but wasn’t really tightened that filter. It was easy removal after that service. Next service I just hand tightened lol
Lol same here, always hand tight, tool off! Actually I'm 6'4 340 pounds and I'm telling you I use gorilla hand strength to put filters on till I can't move them anymore, but everytime I take them off with a tool, they come off with ease. I only say that to say you can tighten it with you hands till your hearts content, no matter how hard you do it with your hands, it will always come off with a tool. A person just doesn't have the grip strength and leverage to tighten so much by hand, that you can't get it off with a took.
Captain Jack has showed his ass a time or two!! But he takes the easy way out by firing one of his captains!! Where did captain Chris go!! I will charter his boat!!
@@captainsalty7777 in addition i dont think its a good idea to start the engine dray, furthermore the tool you use for the oil filter can damage it. thank you for the info
@@fahodi23 I guess you noticed the filter is completely horizontal below the oil fill. There is no way to fill the filter prior to installation. You obviously have never changed the oil on one of these engines. Once you fill the engine with oil the filter takes oil unlike a automobile that has oil lines going to the filter hindering oil from reaching the filter by means of gravity. These engines see a lot of heat on the ocean, the oil filter gaskets expand and contract. Leaving the filter only hand tight will leave you offshore blowing oil when the filter backs off causing possible fire. That’s probably no big issue for lake guys but offshore it’s better safe than sorry!
@@basshawk100 Thank you brother for your response, my engine is F150 yamaha outboard 2016 and the filter is vertical and to my experience with my friends there were many incidents that happen to them from a blown out filter. just wanted to share with you my experience with you.
I’m not trying to be rude or negative: but you should NEVER start your motor with out water going to it!! Any professional mechanic will tell you, that you’ll mess up your water impeller and that the motor in just a few seconds can get hot enough that can warp your inner parts of your motor. My dad would start his old 1967 Johnson 80hp and cut it right back off. It would be smoking out the exhaust. I never thought anything about it, when I was an adult and got my first boat, I was talking to the mechanic, and told him that I could start it without water running to it just to see if it was going to start/turn over, he said never do that, never turn it over without water running to it, it builds up heat in just a few seconds that can mess up the inside of your engine plus the impeller needs to be lubricated by water. From that point on I do not start it up or turn it over without water run to it! Just trying to help!
Hi. Not agreeing or disagreeing. Just a question based on observation. Always had my engine professionally serviced. I'm doing it from now on, so naturally, I'm doing my due diligence. In this clip, he greased the impeller. That wouldn't be enough protection even for just a few seconds?
@@bcidernable I know most everyone greased the impeller, but I can only tell you what the marine mechanic told me. Motors are very expensive, why take the chance. Just my 2 cents. 👍
Lets say the boat is in a heated storage building for the season and the tri-annual service was just done. Impeller was greased with moly lube and you obviously can’t run water to it. I would be more concerned with the oil pump not cycling any oil thru the motor and sitting for months than any morsel of damage caused by popping it off for 1 second. But that’s just my opinion. I guess the reason we have this discussion is because its impossible to prove. But to me its hard to believe considering the way these motors run at 5500 rpm constantly when running wide open. How much damage does that cause? Definitely some.
Question for the seasoned... 2014 F250, bought 2nd hand 6 years ago. Always had it professionally serviced. I'll be performing the maintenance from now on, so this is new territory for me. Do all the 4-strokes have an oil drain on the side? Or is that something on newer models? Have only ever seen that a pump is required.
Yes all outboards to my knowledge have a drain plug. However I believe Yamaha recommends that you use an oil sucker from the dip’stick which is likely how the motor has been professionally serviced in the past. It’s faster, less messy, and probably is able to get old oil from out of passages that wouldn’t drain from gravity. A decent oil sucker for this isn’t the cheapest thing so if you’re a DIYer then I’d probably just drain it.
@JohnSmith-cw3tp Ended up draining it. Had a lot to accomplish... fiberglass repairs, paint, canvas, electrical, etc. Drain seemed to work OK, but hadn't considered oil trapped in lines. May opt for a sucker's for next season. And for what it's worth... seems that "professional service" was a scam. Oil, and gear lube both black-black. Engine had maybe 5 hours of use last season.
good video, I usually spray the whole engine and inside the cowling with Yamashield every oil change and also grease the prop shaft. What grease did you use for spark plugs ?
Interesting "Double Flush" of the lower unit oil? I assume to remove whatever dirty oil was not removed/still trapped on the first drain? Great detailed video.
Wowwwww, amazing job, I don’t have a boat yet, but if I want learn how to do it in the engine I will watch again. My friend asked me if you can find another certate LT5000 XH ARK?? Or where did you buy it? Thank you.
When someone says BOAT means "Break Out Another Thousand" you go and prove them wrong. This is the problem with people, these engines are no different than cars, yet marine mechanics charges way more than car mechanics. Well if you want a reliable boat, that wont drain your pocket, follow 2 simple rules, #1 dont buy a boat if you dont have a place on your property to store it, because storage fees are a waste. #2 DO YOUR OWN WORK, obviously rebuilding an engine isnt in the cards for most people, but what this guy just did, any old joe can do with simple tools. The money you save by doing the services on your own, you can use when the time comes for serious mechanic work that needs special tools and equipment.
CAPTAiN SALTY Nah the jacket cooling for the head on the Suzi there are several zinc anodes to check or change. I would think the yammie might have something similar.
Yes. There is an internal anode inside the cooling jacket for each cylinder. You have to remove a panel on the rear of the engine and move some of the electrical connections to access them with an extension on your socket wrench. If you thoroughly flush your engine in fresh water after every use, you may get several years out of them. This is very important protection for the inside of your engine. If you pull one each year and take a picture to compare the deterioration of the anode to the next year, you can gauge how often they need to be changed. I change my internal anodes every 3 years.
I watched another Video that person saidto put the engine in Neutral before replacing the impeller. also the impeller kit comes with the plate under the impeller, whyyou did not change the metal plate. thank for responding
C’mon Aussie, you can do another 100 hours easy with that impeller if as you say it’s in tip top condition, the engine oil filter way too tight, anodes are meant to go the distance at least 80% wear, so half is good to go again, and for gods sake, impact drills on Japanese bolts in alloy are a No no, but good video all along, I hope the missus didn’t see the unexpected drips and spills, which reminds me, always use a funnel filling dude, cop ‘ya later
@@captainsalty7777 I actually called Yamaha to make sure and self performed maintenance is permitted. No warranty issue by doing yourself using the Yamaha 20, 100, and 300 hour kits. I was surprised to hear that!
Less than 200hrs still brand new!! As you can see sparky and water pump still looks great you don’t really have to replace them but im always just put new one in just in case.
@@captainsalty7777 I've looked through this a few times now, going to attempt this spring once I get almost 200hrs.. Can you recommend the kit you used for the service which includes all necessary parts/oil? Also, you used marine grease on all bolts when replacing? Last, can you please link anodes vid. You da man and keep them coming!
Hey. Thanks for watching again. All my spare parts buy from local Yamaha dealer. But if you in the state probably few good online shop there. I’ll find for you. Also anodes links ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mMwaegWejBc.html
@@Phelpsie06 www.partsvu.com is the cheapest place I’ve found to order 100hr service kits. You can get kits with 10w40 or 20w50. Use 20w50 in warm climate and 10w40 if you use the engine during very cold seasons. They have kits with water pump and kits with out water pumps. It’s just a little over $300 for the kit with spark plugs, water pump, lower unit oil, engine oil, all filters he just changed, gaskets and washers, 3 new bolts.
