Yamaha R6 Shock Upgrade & Swap 2008-16 

Thanks for using the content and getting the job done!! Cheers!

That is a great idea for a video. In fact, I can use my selection of tools that I take all over the world with me as a base for any tool kit

Thanks for the kind words and heal up at the right pace rather than rush it Take care!

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Suhweet! That's definitely a top 5 wrenching tip of all time. Excellent share.

Thank you for subscribing. If you swap the shock, make sure it is the same length to begin. That is important. Then measure static sag to make sure it is12-15mm. Once that has been done set compression at 50% of the total range. Ride for 40 minutes and see how rebound feels and try to make sure it is not too fast: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q1r10TcUpaw.html

In this case, the bike is supported by stands on the foot pegs. That is the most common way to support the frame.

Race Tech sell them

Dave Moss Tuning thanks!

Some suspension specialists can drill a hole in the shock body and then put essentially a tire valve in it so it can be recharged. If your race club says to use the OEM shock, someone as rebuilt them before and as it can be rebuilt. If that is the case, OEM internals can be replaced (piston and valving etc). Hope this helps.

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. We're working feverishly to get Dave's website rebuilt for this purpose. It will have all of his free and premium content there. Hopefully done in the next week or so. I'll post here as soon as it's ready. thx for your patience.

Nice hint with washer cutting

Chain looks to have some seized links?

I was there last weekend. I will not be there this coming weekend. My next trip to the LA area will be late March or early April.

I do not know anyone that has done that swap. In theory yes as the frame and swing arm are the same.

@@catalystreactionsbw thanks is possible rebuild shock R6 2017 - 2019 ? because my mechanic dont find seal for shock R6 2006 - 2007 kayaba dont sale seal

@@julienrider9862 All R6 shocks can be rebuilt from 2000. Ask your mechanic to email GP Suspension to see if they can access the seal www.gpsuspension.com

www.pit-bull.com/racers-pit-crews/jack-stands-pair-for-front-or-rear-f0062-000

Preload would be from 4 turns in to 10 turns. Compression would be 6 to 14 clicks out and rebound would be 8 to 16 clicks out. Depending on valving, oil height etc, you may be further n or further out from closed. Are you referring to the preload adjuster removal from the base of the fork? The kit requires the foot to be removed from the chrome tube so everything can be extracted. It is quite the process.

Thanks for getting back to me. Its a road bike atm, Settings atm are preload 4 turns in, Reb 5 clicks out, ( any faster on Reb and it seems to bounce off every little ripple/bump, Ive had the clicker up to 13 from memory but the tyre would show it been to fast) with a fair bit of the bars walking when on the side of the tyre. Comp 12 clicks out. I would guess that the shim stacks would be the softer settings, but I also don't have any shim stack config data to compare to see what I have atm when I service them shortly. Would these pistons etc be similar to the SBK kit on Ohlins? I was referring to the Compression Valve and holder (like in most USD forks what sit at the bottom of the cart tube) Does it sit in the bottom of the cart tube or is it behind the comp adjuster? Sort of like an 06 and on R6? Cheers

You have rebound in the right leg and compression in the left leg so the pistons sit in the cartridge on the end of the rebound rod. Sounds like your oil might be too thin but given Winter in the UK, that's not a bad thing.

There seems to be a bit of confusion?. just to recap, I have GP suspension 25 mm cartridges in my 2013 ZX10R, they have a rebound adjuster in each fork cap and a comp adjuster in the bottom of each leg (where the preload adjuster used to be) are you saying these are like the Ohlins 30mm NIX carts in regards to the clickers? I'm in OZ, so bang in the middle of summer here atm but I'm from the UK if that makes a difference Haha. :) Cheers

That year/make/model came with Big Piston Forks so you must have forks from an earlier ZX10R.

You can buy a used one off eBay and send it to them with information regarding your weight, type of use, ability and riding goals. Initially, email brisa@gpsuspension.com for a quote and then go from there.

Dave Moss Tuning awesome! Thank you very much!!! 👏🏽👏🏽

Hi Ed - I do not use a damper dyno as I do not have a shop. I have used a Roehrig back in the day when we started GP Suspension to test valving etc.

Yes, but both have the same valving problems and both need a piston and valving kit installed unless you have a shop that can revalve the OEM piston in the shock.

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you. Do you have a time/mileage recommendation on how often the rear shock should be serviced?

@@henrikkoko9919 road bikes every 10-12,000 miles. Track bikes every 2-3,000 miles

Race bikes every 12 track days

Yes, makes life a lot simpler (as those who have done tis will concur) but with filming and editing time being short, we left it in.

@@catalystreactionsbw wait, that doesn't make sense if you wanted to do it faster and easier by going the hard route. Im just yanking your chains...good job with the video guys, I learned a lot over the years

for the tires or the shock?

Dave Moss Tuning sorry the shock please

@@fernandoguerrero7068 depends on the reservoir size. Starting pressure is 100psi

Dave Moss Tuning equals the yellow shock that is in your video

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Good point. This should help. davemosstuning.com/trash-or-treasure-750-rear-end-tear-down/

Understood. I looked back at the jRi video we posted on the shock swap there and the actual process is not in that video either. (davemosstuning.com/?s=jri+shock) You need a front stand/chock to secure the front of the bike and a rear stand to get the rear wheel in the air. Jack stands or similar stands locate under the foot pegs and that keeps the rear wheel about 6-8" off the ground. You can use a block of wood under the rear wheel but it will eventually have to droop down. You can always remove the rear wheel to make the task far easier (trash or treasure link).

I rode too fast and it blew away OR it is the cost of aging gracefully when you don't have the right genetics.

i'll go with the first one cause you look like you've got some great genetics