Bought mine from a thrift shop and did exactly the same thing. The thing is, it was in absolute perfect shape, not a single dust particle inside the unit when I opened it up. Never had a chance to fix it and gave it away to a local guy that could fix it. Plans changed ended up with 2018 Onkyo receiver with updated surround sound (atmos, dts-x, etc)
Great work, and a nice solution to the problem. I am struggling with a 72 sansui quad with many of same problems. I got the thing running and turned it over to a tech to overhaul the radio.
Why not take the unit outside to use the air compressor on it, instead of blowing the dead bugs and filth all over your work bench? 🤮 Anyway, I have worked on a number of various Yamaha RX-V surround-sound A/V receivers, and aside from the blown channel you encountered, there are a number of common problems and factory service bulletins about them. Some of the rear panel screws that hold the connectors are also important chassis grounds and the unit will shut down if those screws aren't tight. There is a supercapacitor for the memory, on a vertical board behind the volume control area (under the metal shield panel) which can leak an invisible electrolyte on the board, causing the unit to shut down, and you have to clean the board with alcohol and Q-tips and a toothbrush and replace the bad cap. Also, the polarized electrolytic feedback caps for the differential amplifiers can go bad and should be replaced with non-polar electrolytics. Most of these various receivers will have a way to bypass the protection circuit (by holding down a combination of front panel buttons as you turn it on) and turn it on sufficiently that you can interrogate its memory and the digital display will give you some clue as to what's wrong with the unit. Obviously you need to be plugged into a light bulb current limiter when you do this; but if there was any justice in the universe, what the display would read is "NWR": not worth repairing! There is also a way to use a male plug to male plug "suicide cord" feeding into one of the courtesy outlets on the back of the unit and thereby turn on the main transformer and output stage so that you can check for DC offset; again, only done with the use of a current limiter, but regardless, the suicide cord method is quite dangerous and not recommended for the average inexperienced wannabe tech.
Made 50 bucks getting it running. For the owner he was happy to have it running. It's an outside receiver and I am sure moisture and bugs will get to it again.
Electronic devices should never be left outside, even under cover. Bugs find their way into them seeking the warmth the heatsink and other heat generating components produce. Always best indoors with outdoor speakers hardwired from the distance.
Since you touched the topic of electronic hardware being outside, do you recommend spraying electronic boards with plasticizer spray, the sort that creates a plastic film on the board? Sprayed an old sliding garage door opener board with it and it was fried...
Hi bro, I have Rx-v557 yahama amplifier, it is playing on ups batteries 220v but not playing on outdoor electricity trun on but tripped, I removed all cables of speakers, but still issue exists. How to fix it. Thanks
I have a Yamahaha HTR 5740 on the bench now. It has the main board stacked above the power amp board, and power supply board above that one in one corner. one side of the winding of the power transformer windings covers part of the power amp board. Almost all of the ribbon cables are soldered right to the boards at both ends. Yamahaha products were a technician nightmare in the 1970s with the CR series because all of the semiconductors had to come from Yamahaha becuade they spec'd everything to tight of tolerances. And, I did not spell Yamahaha wrong..
Yes I used to call them yamahahaha too. Especially their motorcycles which are a piece of junk.and yes I can speak with authority on that I had one it was the biggest piece of crap I've ever owned.
I have a tsr 5810 Yamaha. Mine has no power at all, I can't get it into self test mode either. Relay doesn't click when I press power button. What do you think it is?
Haven't done that much work on Denon so I can't really comment on their build quality. All the modern ones are paying the ass to work on that's why I don't work on home theater equipment much I stick to the two channel stuff as a real
I bought a "reconditioned" Denon many years ago from one of their authorized "b-stock" liquidators. On arrival, it wouldn't power up at all. Once they found out it was shipped to Canada, no one would touch it - apparently the b-stock is only supposed to be sold to the US, and in Canada you're supposed to pay full price. In the end, I fixed it myself - someone had broken the corner of the board off by putting the receiver down with something shoved through the bottom vent. I guess when they sent it back under warranty or whatever, the 2 traces running across the corner of the board happened to be connected when they tested it, so right back out it went again without any repair. I scraped the solder mask off of both traces on both sides of the break and soldered 2 wires across the break to fix it properly. Then when I put it back together, one of the pins on one of the connectors on the riser boards didn't quite line up, and it pushed the pin and the trace out of the main board. Took it back apart a second time and fixed that issue (and was really careful about plugging all the boards back in), and it's been 100% fine ever since. I'd say their designs are OK, but they use the cheapest PCB material known to mankind (that phenolic stuff) - but that's pretty common in all consumer electronics. I think these days, they're all pretty much equal across brands. Oh, and F denon for being pretentious c**ts about "but you can't buy our b-stock products even from an authorized reseller if you're in Canada - discounts are only for Americans"
@@gorak9000 some bonehead sent me a receiver for repair. A broken receiver and this bonehead put it declared value of $1,400 on it. So it sits at the post office with a $250 tax bill and I ain't paying for it. The owner will have to Buck up and pay the tax before the unit gets released from prison. If he doesn't by the time the hold runs out they will ship it back to him on repaired collect. I don't know how come people keep doing this I'm very clear when I tell people if they're shipping something it cannot have a declared value of more than $20 and anything that is broken does not have any value. There's no guarantee that I can even fix it because it depends on what's wrong and whether there's parts or what the damage is. The guy that owns it will have to pay the taxes before it's picked up and I'm leery of having payment done through PayPal because I recently had someone do that they paid the taxes under PayPal and then I went and paid the bill and then found that the unit was not repairable due to no parts they found a dispute with PayPal and got their money back and I ended up being out $110 in taxes that I had paid for something that wasn't repairable.
During the 1980’s I did some contract electronic design work for a small Chicago-area manufacturer who actually used a residential dishwasher to clean their PC boards after the soldering phase of assembly. I don’t recall what they used for detergent. It might have been nothing but plain hot water.
That's called a confirmal coating and I was wondering myself if spraying something such as flex seal over a board would protect against the elements. Have yet to actually try that but I bet it would do a pretty good job of protecting a board. First of all though before doing anything like that it would have to be meticulously clean. The time to put a confirmal coating on is what aboard is new before it's been exposed to dust and debris and moisture.
@@12voltvids Having worked in avionics we had to repair and recoat faulty pcb's, the worst were boards from rescue hellicopters that suffered from all the salty spray from the sea. The weakness of conformal coating is that the smallest pinhole will allow moisture to creep under the coating taking out components, removing it and then replacing it is a messy time consuming job. At least the wages were good at the time.
@@frankowalker4662 I was thinking that spraying a board with flexseal might do the trick. It sure stopped a dripping drain on my kitchen sink. The Union connection between the p-trap and drain had a damaged thread that would drip. Sprayed it with flex seal 10 years ago hasn't dripped since.
@@Barbarapape and once moisture gets in the confirmal coating will trap it so it can do even more damage. I once worked on a car radio and you're right getting through the conformal coating was a pain in the ass. Of course I don't work on car radios now that's not the only reason I just don't like car radios and they were always the ones that came back to bite you in the ass because it was usually a teenager that shorted something out when they were putting the stereo in and you fix it and then put it back in their car without rectifying the fault and as soon as they turned it on boom and it came flying back in the door with an angry 16-year-old screaming at the top of his lungs that you didn't fix it right.
You are trying to pull the board out without first disconnecting ribbon cables. I hope you customer does not pay for your mumbling time... How about also cleaning the board with some brake cleaning spray? Are you going to deliver it like that?
Yep that thing looks like a pain in the ass, i had a similar one to repair a long time ago. All the boards had to be removed before access to the outputs was possible. Never designed to be repaired.
It was designed like this that made me glad that I got out of the repair business when I did. I absolutely hated these type of units I would upright refuse to work on them. it appears that I have pissed off John Sanchez because he has now filed a minimum of 12 complaints against this video what a goofball
@@12voltvids You have done nothing wrong. The owner is happy it's working and will not care about a sub channel not working, It's now a working amplifier, he would have thrown it in a skip if you said no to looking at it. That john bloke does not own that amplifier, he needs to mind his own business.
@@zx8401ztv Johnny shithead fires off spam, copyright, repititive content complaints. He sent me a Facebook request awhile ago and I blocked him like i do for most because i don't accept Facebook friend request from anyone unless i know them personally. On an average day dozens of requests are received. I have more than 1 account. One for friends and the other for public stuff like forums and marketplace. My personal account is locked down as it is registered to a totally different email address which i don't make public.
Oh my what a mess of boards. I enjoy tackling messes like that but I am to old today to bother. I am just surprised someone would leave something so nice outside. I think it is one of the worst designs for service I have ever seen.
"blow this thing out!" more like blow it up if you ask me! that's disgusting. I've only ever had one boombox i kept in an outdoor workshop and i can only imagine what it looked like inside after all those years. at least it always worked somehow
First I thought too that was bird turd, but more likely it's thermal compond to make good contact between the sense transistors and the edge of the heatsink. You can see TO92 transistors that are bent under the edge of the heatsink at each channels, those are used for making the bias (idle current) regulated over the changing temperature of the output transistors.
@@mrnmrn1, yes, and those bias transistors rarely sit tightly pushed up against the heat sink, so if you do pull the board up you usually have to push on the transistors while heating the solder joints, to reseat the transistors against the heatsink ---- but if the board and heat sink assembly flexes a lot while you reinstall it, the transistors leads will bend and the devices will once again be spaced slightly away from the heat sink. It's a stupid design.
