Hi from Spain. My most sincere congratulations for your video. It is the best by far. Your way of speaking, your tranquility, your professionalism and how well you explain and illustrate make a difference. THANKS FROM MY HEART. Luis (Your same motorcycle and color)
Thanks for sharing! A few suggestions, use a rag on the inside of the tire to check for the puncture culprit. On the front end reassembly, typically the axle pinch bolts aren’t tightened until the front end is pumped a few times this allows the forks to self align.
Great contribution, I love it. For those who only have a side stand, it is an advantage to have a handsaw with you. You can use it to cut a branch out of a bush to jack up the motorcycle. always ride safe
Great video. Thanks for the honesty about the tools and explanation of why you went to the extra effort of removing the ABS sensor and especially the callipers .
The inside chamfer on the Rally Raid tool can be removed by cutting the end down on a lathe so that the end of the socket is flat. A bench grinder would probably work, too. I had the same problem with short heads on coolant pipe drain bolts under my car, and cutting down the chamfered end of a socket made it fit the bolt head without slipping off.
8:35 - I know that the bottom nut is actually used to secure the valve to the tube, some tube-vave type/combo require this washer and nut to ensure the valve is seated/sealing properly. So you should not undo the bottom nut, just leave it there next to the washer and inside the rim. Also, do not tighten the top (exterior) nut all the way to the rim, leave it half way between the cap and rim. That way your valve won't be stripped out of the tube if the tyre slips on the rim whilst running low pressure (offroad).
You forgot about one very important procedure-after tightening axle before tightening small bolts"1" and "2" its necessary to put bike on the grund and push front suspension few times to give suspension pipes alignement..and then tighten "1"and "2"bolts. also its good to give some soap on tire edge before mounting :-)
Very good video as always! Please keep them coming👍 Regarding remounting the tyre to the rim, I would recommend using either soap/dishwashing soap or specifik tyre mounting paste when remounting. It makes the whole job, especially getting the bead back onto the rim, so much easier. Firestarters, wd40 or any other lubricant can be used as well in an emergency, but something soapy will be the best as it dries out over time and does not "wander" of onto the tires.
I do have a pail of the tire mounting paste and even have a small plastic box for my on-board tool kit with the paste, but I did not use it on the front tire to make it easier to dismount the tire next time. On aluminum rims soap water can lead to corrosion due to soap containing lye, an acid. With tubeless tires, this corrosion can lead to air leaks. Not a problem with tubed tires. I'm too theoretical, a total nut! Ha Ha! :-) You are absolutely correct, a lubricant makes the job much easier! Thanks and Have a Good & Safe Ride!
@@orbsurfer8195 Also a theoretical thinker, I have used a small amount of dishwashing liquid diluted in distilled or tap water for tire dismounting and mounting for the last 50 years with no visible corrosion damage on aluminum (off-road bikes) or chromed steel rims (play bikes). Liquid dish soap is basically a cationic surfactant and contains no lye. It does dry out quickly and seems to help “glue” tire bead to rim better to help avoid tire spinning on rim at lower tire pressures (10-12 psig). I keep a small 2 oz bottle in tool kit on bike or back pack and a 12 oz squeeze bottle with nozzle in the shop. Great review and your attention to detail is appreciated. Keep twisting that throttle!
When describing something that's difficult, a euphemism like "harder than an act of congress" can be changed to "harder than fixing a flat on a motorcycle"
I have loosened the axle nuts with a long leverage tool at home and retightened them wit the rallyraid handtool (using my body weight) Couldn't get them loose with the ralyraid handtool. Maybe I misunderstood , but I you want to use the beadpro as tire iron you should use the other side. Not the side that is meant for braking the bead.
I have used the spoon side against the bead of the tire/edge of the rim with the Motion Pro tool, but the jagged end on the opposite end makes it hard to push against this tool compared to the rounded edge of the blue handle tire spoons. A typical comment regarding the front axle on the Yamaha Ténéré 700 is that it is fastened too tight from the dealership. (on too many vehicles returned to me from dealers after service, parts have either not been fastened or fastened at twice the torque specs...) You should be able to loosen the front axle with the Rallye Raid (RR) tool. The RR tool is 1/2 ft long > that equals 106 lbs of force necessary to loosen/tighten the front axle (53 ft-lb). Always remember to loosen the pinch bolts first before loosening/fastening the front axle. :-) Thanks and Have a Good & Safe Ride!
Have you thought about sealing the rims so you could use TUBELESS tires? There are numerous videos about various ways to do it using a silicone sealant on the nipple ends and covering the sealed nipples with 3M sealing tape. Outex even makes a kit for the job.
Absolutly great video. I think after this I will be able to change my tuber by my own. Thanks so much for your time and your knowledge. Sorry, my writen english its quite rusty.
What size tubes did you order for front and rear? Would love a link if convenient. Your T700 maintenance videos are some of the best on RU-vid. Keep up the good work!
Front Tire: 90/90-21 @ 32 PSI Axle torque 53 LBFT OR 72 NM Inside pinch bolt first to 15 LBFT OR 21 NM Then outside pinch bolt 15 LBFT Then again inside pinch bolt at 15 LBFT Disc brake caliper bolt 30 LBFT or 40 NM ABS bolt 5 FTLBS 7 NM DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AND STRIP
What is your experience with these HD tubes from Michelin? I'm asking because my front tyre is loosing pressure all the time. With the recent tire change I replaced the OEM Pirelli tube by a bit heavier Heidenau tube but still the same phenomenon. The rear tire, still with the OEM Pirelli tube, is just fine. Save rides, Bernd 💙💛🏁🤛🏼
Thanks for the great vid. Helped me through the process. One question - should my front wheel spin freely with the wheel suspended in the air? I have some brake rub after reinstalling the wheel and may have compressed the brake with the calipers off the discs. I’ve seen some vids that say this is normal?
So the axle is screwed directly into the left fork leg? Great, I'd much prefer the old design with a nut so that the wheel can be removed without that huge allen wrench. This also means having to replace the leg if you strip the thread. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for this video! Very thorough. I have a question though. Why, when you remove the old tube, do you remove the valve core? Is it not enough to just let the air out?
Removing the valve core is not necessary - it just lets the tire deflate more quickly. Probably better to let the valve core stay in place - less chance of loosing the core! 🙂
Just tighten by feel - try on some spare bolts at home with the onboard toolkit and check with a torque wrench. Small bolts does not require much torque and torque numbers are always on clean threads! Corrosion and dirt gives a resistance. Using blue thread lock is a good practice on vibrating motorcycles too! I need to slim down my toolkit and make it lighter and go back to basics. I rode for years and years doing maintenance on the road with much simpler tools than I have today. I have gone to far the other way now! 🙂
Are you telling me that a large bucket is not part of your on-board tool kit? :-) I have been meaning to source a small tarp, 4' x 4' or so, a little sturdier than what you can pick up at the local hardware store, and add that including a bag to keep the tarp in when it gets muddy, to my tool kit. But I have been procrastinating! Thanks for the reminder! Have a Good & Safe Ride!
I see the same mistakes over and over again on Y tube videos about motorcycle tire changing techniques that makes the job so much more difficult. Maybe I'll have to make a video on the proper way to change a motorcycle tire and tube.
hi, great vidéo.... do you balance the front wheel after changing tires? some say that you should some there no needs on trail motorcycle with 50% / 50% tyres. Thx
Bikes that go off road get flats more often. It's very difficult to plug and inflate a tubeless tire from zero out in the wild. This is much easier to swap out and continue on.
That's why I sold my loved honda transalp cos was hard to change a tube on the road on my own.. to fix puncture with plug 10 min job.. That's why new Africa twin goes tubeless??