Even without audio your video is better than the other videos I saw where the tech is talking too much instead of going straight to the subject and better yet you provided description of the material for people like me that knows nothing about mechanics. Good job. Thanks.
Excellent and helpful video. I also like to warm the bike up first to help with the oil drainage. I leave the fill plug in until the oil starts draining so I don't have such a strong flow while I'm unscrewing the drain plug. Totally agree with the tinfoil on the exhaust pipe. Learned the hard way on that. Also, some folks have tightened the bolts too tight and stripped the threads, so snug them up but don't overdo it. I also like your recommendation of 2.75 quarts. The bike will take a maximum of 2.97, but my experience is that can completely fill the sight glass, which would be overfull. 2.75 leaves a little air below the max line which I like. Also, though your sight glass is completely full looking at the end of the video, I suspect that is just because you haven't run it after the oil change, which puts oil into the filter and brings the level down between the min and max lines where it should be.
Thanks Johnny for the comments. Yes, you're right and I had warmed the bike up right before the oil change, forgot to mention that. Tinfoil is a lifesaver :) And you're right again, the last window shot was before I started the bike after the oil change. After I started/stopped the bike, I see a small bubble on top of the window.
Thanks. I usually go like 8 months to a year, but I don't ride it like a daily. Just weekends and off days and mostly around town. I'd suggest looking through the oil level window and see if it looks dark and decide if needs an oil change.
Looks like you have the classic (judging by the footboards). I beleive the frame its on the way to use a socket torque wrench so you use the 17 mm box wrench instead. As far as removing the inner (5) hex/allen bolts, you probably had to push the rear break forward as its on the way for one of the bolts. Did the floorboards get in the way?
Hi.. Yes, that's a 650 Classic model. The brake pedal did block the allen wrench just a tiny bit, so I pushed it a little. floor boards were not in the way really.
@@devilzadvocate7735 I don't ride quite often anymore, so I usually change every 8 months to a year. I check the little window on the left side at the bottom of the engine and if it looks dark, I change oil.
oil change is every 4000 miles filter change is every 8000 miles the 650 takes 3 quarts with a filter change 2.7 if you dont change the filter. Put 3 quarts in with a filter, START the engine for a minute to fill up the oil filter cavity, turn the engine off THEN check the site glass with the bike vertical: Perfect! There is no reason to check the window when you put the proper amount in the engine. unless you spilled it all over the floor there is nowhere else it can GO! More important: DONT TOUCH YOUR BIKE UNLESS YOU HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH. YOU WILL STRIP OUT THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BLOCK AND TRASH YOUR ENGINE! drain plug: 32 ft lbs 8 cover bolts: 7 ft lbs
hey congrats on the bike. I've been using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 since I got the bike and never had issues. Hope the link works: smile.amazon.com/Mobil-96936-20W-50-Synthetic-Motocycle/dp/B000SKV4T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517447648&sr=8-1&keywords=mobil+1+20w-50+v-twin+synthetic+motorcycle+motor+oil
I usually went with the recommended 2.75qts oil and it always levels above the window mid level like 3 quarters of the way when the bike is upright. Didn't have any issues with that approach. Good point though, some folks add oil using the window level method when the bike is upright.
