This video shows basic disassembly of the carbs from a 1997 Virago xv750. See the removal and installation video here... • Yamaha Virago Carb Rem... Download corrected carb diagram here... oi61.tinypic.co...
I know this is a old video but, i just like to thank you on your tutorials, ive never worked on a motorcycle in my life and now just got my yamaha virago running! You just saved me close to 140$ sir, and id like to thank you! Now i learned my lesson about not using fuel stablizer.
Hello Sir, I had bought a 1993 XV750 Virago, which had running issues, poor idling, backfiring and lack of power. From watching your two descriptive videos demonstrating the carburettors removal, stripping, inspecting and refitting, I was able to gain a confident approach to sorting out the issues that my bike had. Thank you very much for your videos, they both have great instructional value and without them I have no doubt that I'd still be struggling on with them now. Cheers!!
Hey I got the same issue let me know what the cause was I think mines a faulty vacuum carbs need synced and need to be properly adjusted for air to fuel I haven’t gotten into it yet seeing as how a carb for these are hundreds and the parts aren’t cheap either
@@slopdog9824 Hello Sir, my apologies for the late reply. I stripped both carbs apart, ultrasonically cleaned them with my own machine and carb cleaner. Inspected all the diaphragms, they were all ok. After reassembling the carbs, I then bench balanced them equally. When I stripped the carbs I found the rear carb running very lean (1 turn rear carb and the front carb was 3.5 turns open, and the throttle butterfly valve was virtually closed on the rear carb - the rear cylinder was the one back-firing with the bike running rough and underpowered. I reset the fuel air mixtures to an open, 2 turns out initial position and then ran the bike, made some small adjustments adjustments after running to temperature to 2.5 turns on each carb. Then, went out for a shake-down run to get the feel of the power and listen if the backfiring had cleared; it had cleared. I reset the idle position more accurately to a sensible tick over speed. Hope this helps in anyway possible. I have learnt a lot from many helpful videos on RU-vid. All the best luck sir.👍
Phenomenal instruction! Most comprehensive video I have found in the month I've been researching. Mine is a 2007 250 so looks a bit different but the info is still relevant. If you had done a removal video for a 250 I am confident that I would have done this job completely through your video instruction. You're a natural teacher. Thanks for posting this video!
I totally agree with all the positive comments from other viewers! I just acquired an 84 Virago to add to my collection of bikes...even though it will need the carbs cleaned I was pleasantly surprised how much power it had when I opened it up. Now after watching this I am keen to get at them and cure the backfire on decel and stumble on accel. Thankyou so much...I admire the attention to detail you put in to your videos!! Cheers 😎
Great detail and tips. Thank you for putting this out there. I was shocked today when I called 3 shops and all of them said they no longer work on the Viragos. They said they are too much trouble. I have had mine since 1994 (new) and never had an issue with it in 28 years. Anyway, because my 750 Virago sat for a year (could not ride) I had to rebuild the carb and replace the inside parts. After I did that (6 months ago) it was fine. Now there is an issue with the carbs and I can not figure it out. Spits and sputters. After replacing all the gas, checking air and fuel lines, I will need to pull the carbs apart again. I have watched this video twice and will now go do the pull and rebuild again. I have my hopes up since (still amazed) it looks like I am on my own to fix the issues. Thanks again for the great video.
brother this is the best vid ever. I thought I had cleaned my carbs till I saw your video and then took them back apart. Please keep the videos coming.
Good video. A couple of important items - The main jet sizes for the front carb vs the rear carb are different. The size # is stamped on the jet. On the 1996 XV 1100 that I'm working on the front carb takes a #125 - the rear carb takes a # 122.5. Although you have a 750cc XV my guess is that that the actual jet sizes may be different but with in your carbs the front & rear will have different sizes . . & if the 2 carbs don't get the correct main jet # the bike will not run wright. The rubber O ring on that one seat is bad & if not changed could let extra gas seep past. That O ring is a precise 'metric' size - & comes in the K&L ( made in Japan ) carb kits. I got mine from K & L supply.
Previous owner had that washer installed like the manual, not like you showed here. Someone had the carbs apart before me. Thank you for pointing that out. It would barely idle and was running rich like you said. I was really getting frustrated with this bike....
Thanks for the video. I found it very useful before removing the carbs on my virago... I had to use a Impact Srewdriver to remove the screws on the carbs as they were locked solid after 10 years of disuse..... now awaiting some parts and gaskets for the carbs to refit. The 10mm bolts on the carb manifold are very difficult to reach, Need a bent spanner or a crow foot spanner to remove and refit. Thanks again.
God Bless you for this!!! i have an 86 yamaha virago, my first bike, and have done basic maintenance on it, but i would like to go further and do this kind of service on the bike. Kudos
Awesome video. Just bought my bike and pulled the carbs apart. They had put the washers on the main needle on incorrectly(correctly according to manual). And you set me straight.Thanks
Excellent video! Very detailed and clear. I am now going to work on my Virago 1100 carbs...... Thank you for inspiring confidence that I can clean the jets myself.
thank you. have been searching youtube for a good carb cleaning ebuild tutorial for a few days now. I stumbled across yours and I have to say. Its the best on youtube worth a like and a sub thank you very much sir I will be back to see more
Great tutorial, I managed to spin the emulsion tube trying to remove the main jet, what should I do about that? I tried gripping it as tight as I could, but the jet still hasn't come out.
I know this is 3 years old but I just had the same problem and used an extractor from the other side to hold the emulsion tube in place and was able to pop the jet loose
Just received a xv750 for free, however it's not in good shape. I just took the carbs apart and both diaphragms are not sealed all the way, infact one is slightly torn. The best price I've found is $85 a piece.
Great video. I'll add (because I just learned this) that the "phillips" screws are not phillips, they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). Just trust me, folks, Japanese fasteners are different, and you want to get a set of JIS screwdrivers if you work on Japanese bikes.
Exactly correct! JIS screwdrivers aren't easily found in stores though, but I've found a good quality Phillips and a little finesse works 99.9% of the time.
Ok. Thanks will do. It looked like there was some sort of sealant between the boot and engine when I took them apart. Same with the diaphragm. Mind you I don't think these were taken apart in 30+ years. New o ring. New boots. New gaskets and new jets going in. She still has a hard time starting I'm thinking it may be the starter. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video man I just got an 81 virago and am going to be rebuilding the carb so this kinda helped. Btw you sound like uncle buck lol rock on 🤘🤘🤘
I am curious about that as well... i used it to clean them already and didnt notice that the diaphragm was damaged in any way... but i have not removed the de-accel cover and spring to check that one.
thank you so much for the tips about the carb cleaner im just about to do this on my 1984 750 i am also in canada and don't want to pay 360$ a kit thank you again!!
Saving this one to study. Gonna be doing some work on the 93 xv750 I bought this spring. It’s filled the crank case with gas twice now so I’m guessing it’s more then just a stuck float. Plus I have a high idle issue. Once the engine warms up, it wants to idle at about 3k. I’m guessing it’s either a vacuum leak or an issue with the big throttle diaphragms. Luckily, it’s been a while since this video was uploaded and it looks like I can get kits with the big diaphragms for like 20 or 30 USD.
Hello. I purchased a 1992 Virago 750 in summer of 2023. A pristine bike with only 6,000 miles. It had been sitting for ten years. All the fuel had leaked into the crankcase. I have had to use a heat gun to soften the gunk gas to disassemble the carbs. On mine I removed the plasstic casing the diaphram assembly slides up and down. There are two "security screws" holding the plastic cassing in place. Upon removal, you will see two orings (square rings) that seal the part and carb case. Mine were hard and worthless. If these rings don't seal, the fuel will leak past and bypass the needle and seat. Nothing is noted in the parts diaghram for replacement rings. Still working on resolving this as of 2-17-2023.
@TimeTraveller1117 so I took apart my carbs, rebuild the bottom end of them and decided the vacuum diaphragms were fine. Some further testing showed that the vacuum operated peckcock on the tank was not sealing, as well as me not understanding how it actually worked. So after rebuilding that, and it still leaking, I put a valve in my fuel line right down steam of the tank and that keeps fuel out of the case vv
Hello. Yes, installing an off/on valve in the fuel line between the tank and carburetors will stop the fuel flow at your discretion. The vacuum actuated petcock is failing and the neadle/seat is failing as well. I have had bikes where the same type of petcock (vacuum operated) is OEM, and instead intalled a manually operated petcock. The Kawasaki Concours (C10) is the one I am most famaliar with. I bought my manually operated petcock from Pingal. Be leary of cheap Chinese made aftermarket fuel petcocks. To properly fix yours, I suggest you buy the OEM petcock diaphram. I posted a video to show you what the two orings I was talking about in the emulsion tube casing. The Virago I am working on had gas that was at least ten years old, and is why is was such a bugger to disassemble. Furthermore, the needle and seat must be working properly as well as the correct float bowl height for the bike to run properly. The two orings (square rings) I mentioned in the video, if not seating, will allow air and perhaps fuel contamination of the proper adjustments. Hang in there! Plenty of good people out here in cyber land that are more than happy to help keep these great old bikes and their riders on the road.@@joeanspach539
@TimeTraveller1117 the oem peckcock diaphragm and o-ring kit is what I used to rebuild mine. I suspect that it's just given up being 30 years old. I'll have to look into those square o-rings to see what you're taking about. I did get my float level right though as the bike runs great, even under a good uphill load at wide open throttle for a decent amount of time.
This is golden. Used this to rebuild the carbs on my 97 750, unfortunately dealing with a backfire and fouling spark plugs. Is there an air/fuel screw on these carbs at all???
Hello i know videos old so i dont know if you will see this but im getting a 97 virago 1100 and it runs but then will cut out and die owner says carbs need to be cleaned what else do you think i should check
The two screws that you had a hard time taking out that separate the carburetors I actually stripped both of The Phillips heads on mine and that’s where I’m at...
Great video shortmag270! I cleaned and reassembled with all new jets and now my bike is running extremely lean and popping then idling then stalling when I give it gas. Almost like all I need to do is adjust the air /fuel screw but in your video it does not show any adjustments. I did just order new deceleration gaskets just in case. Please help. Thanks!
Awesome vid.Thank you!I have one question about float height-for correct measurement it should be measured from highest point of float bottom curved surface?
Thanks for the excellent video. My dad was going to help me with this but I figure I go into this with some prior knowledge. Also what is with the objects stretching and shifting while the camera moves?
Dear ShortMag270 .... I live in Brazil and your video is very good; I have XV750. When disassembling and checking the parts, I realized that this carburetor does not have the air x fuel mixture adjustment screw. If so, please let me know where it is located on the body. thank you
Dear @ChooseToThink I bought this motorcycle a few days ago and it has problems with the sealing of the gas inlet valve. As I am dismantling the entire carburetor for repair and general cleaning, I did not notice this adjustment for the idle circuit mixture. I tried to remove the main gigleur and I am noticing that when forcing the torque it looses its hand and rotates the entire Gligleur assembly + washer + high mixing tube. and as that there seems to be very fragile, I didn't want to force it. I even saw him in this video suggesting squeezing with pliers to avoid unwanted rotation. thank you
Hey.. Got a very good 1994 rear fender w/tail light and blinkers if interested? also front fender, battery box - one nut plate missing, reserve tank w/switch valve.. all in very good condition.
First... Great Video!!!! I too noticed the needle spring seat on diagram was wrong. Second..I just started rebuilding the carbs on a 1988 750. How Do I set the pilot screw (part 14). It's underneath a cap (you have to drill out) on top of carb. My manual and your video don't even mention it.
You can drill them with a 5/32" drill bit, screw a #6 diameter X 1/2" long Phillips head sheet metal screw into it and pop them out with a pair of needle-nose pliers or side-cutters, perhaps. Be careful when drilling through the brass plug that you don't hit the pilot screw that is situated ~3/16" underneath. If you drill into it badly enough you'll need to replace the pilot screw kit at a cost of ~$8.50 USD, tax included, because there's a slot in the top of it for a small flat-blade screwdriver. The kit comes with a screw, a spring, a flat washer, and a tiny o-ring. You'll need to soft seat the screw, then back it out 1 1/2 turns, install the carbs and the air filter onto the bike, and fine tune them with the bike running (you'll need a fuel source besides the fuel tank b/c it's too wide to get to the screws when it's in place). Check out the DynoJet Stage 1 Kit #401177, if you'd like to improve the driveability, throttle response, and horsepower. I just installed one on a friend's XV750 with a set of Vance & Hines 2-into-2 exhaust and a K&N air filter, which gives a pretty nice little performance boost. The reason I watched this video is because the rear cylinder has a deceleration pop, and I hope to remove the deceleration jet as he showed tomorrow, to see if it clears that up. Then I can deliver the bike to its owner.
HELP Please Hey thanks for the great video really informative and detailed! I'm on my 3 rd time pulling the carbs apart as they were full of grit when I got the bike and it wasn't running. Check spark to both plus by pulling each out n looking for spark both have spark but only one cylinder running , seems when I apply a bit of choke the other cylinder kicks in a little but not fully. There is a slight hint at low revs when applying very gentle throttle that it may kick in but no go . Not sure what the problem is sort of wondering bot float level as all the fuel passages should be clear by now an the fluid caught after cleaning seems clean..... anyway suggestions greatly appreciated 😀😀😀 96 virago 750
hope you read this soon. I ordered a rebuild kit and have my carbs torn down. theres one one really tiny o ring that came in the kit that i cant figure out where it goe s
Great video, I have the exact same bike and this will be so helpful when I do my carbs shortly. My question is that if I separate the carbs as you did. Will I have to have the carbs re-sync?Just finding a mechanic to work on an older bike around here (Peterboro Ont.) is ridiculous and I would like to avoid having to find one for a re-sync if I can. I'm a newbie at this so any advice you have would be greatly appreciated.....thanks again.
I have a few questions : I have a 85 750. Hitachi carbs X 2 1.What size are the screws that attach the boos to the engine. Can they be replaced by hex heads it's so hard getting a wrench in there. 2. What should I use between the boots and engine. There is an P ring there should I use silicon as well. 3. What about aroun the diaphragm on top. What should I use around the edges when I'm putting the carbs back together.
1. I don't have the exact specs for the bolt, they are already hex head, you might be referring to Allen head or some other type, I wouldn't recommend it. It gets easier with a little practice. 2. Nothing, there is an O-ring between the boots and the engine. Make sure the O-ring is in good shape, replace as needed. DO NOT use silicone. 3. Again, nothing, the diaphragm material is soft and seals itself. Once you've inspected the diaphragm and determined it is in good condition just re-install it as you found it. You can use silicone lubricant spray to assist you in slipping the carbs back into the boots, but again DO NOT use silicone sealant anywhere on the carb or intake system.
My '99 Virago 1100 cuts out the rear cylinder when it gets hot after about 20 minutes of rising. It will kick in and out until I allow the bike cool then it runs great again until hot. Do you know what causes that?
I know this is an old video - but I just got a 93 Virago 1100. On one of the carbs, the bottom of the emulsion tube cover is broken off. When I have searched for replacements, I do not see any that have the plastic cover - it's only the "guide slide" piece. Does anyone know if this piece is available? It's visible at 15:28 in the video.
The Service manual for the 1987 xv700 mentions carburetor # 1 and # 2, but does not indicate which is which. Is # 1 feeding the front engine (equipped with the throttle cable) or back?
Did mine, bought 2 rebuilding kits , replaced old ones followed the fuel/air mixture but when I install it back and test it , gas is coming out of the exhaust pipe (float valve is ok not stuck in any way). What do you think I did wrong or what correction should I do? I took it off the bike again to double check where did I go wrong.
Great video when the throttle assembly goes back on should the butterfly valves be open or completely closed It looks like in the video they are shut but on mine they are open??
+David Thomas I'll assume that you have the actuating rods on the wrong way somehow. Have another look at the video, you may have missed something. The throttle blades should open and then close on their own as you move the throttle.
+ShortMag270 +ShortMag270 On my carbs the throttle assembly bolts were seized so I decided to remove the throttle assembly bar instead to give me room to take off the sump. But this diddnt work so I drilled them out and replaced with allen key bolts instead, all good at this stage did the rest of the disassemble clean and put back but when I now attach the arms back on I have to twist the throttle round abit to get the furthest away one to line up so when the butterfly is closed on this one there is a gap of about 4mm from the end of the idling screw to the stop plate. I can get the other one on also closed by removing the adjuster screw ( the one with the small spring for celebrating. I could just get a longer screw but I still have the problem with the 4mm gap.The only thing I can think of is the bar that I took off must have twisted when I took one of the end nuts off but I dont remember thinking it was overly tight. A fix would be If I was to heat up the bar and twist it back the stop plate would sit back on the idle adjuster and the gap at the other end would also decrease. When the stop plate is resting on the idler should the butterflys be completely closed or a slight gap?
Hi Shawn, I have a Yamaha Virago 1100 1986 with 5000 mills real , She start doing explosions and she stop!!! I was able to start it again I pull it up with my truck, could you help me with my engine??. Also my meter broke, could you let me know where to get it, since is not been on the marker anymore, like a junker on something like that.
hello sir I have a question about the vents on the carburetors those 90 fittings that are on there are filled with dirt and I was wondering if they're fix to the carb or can they can come off.. hope you understand what I'm trying to say ty
I never tried to remove them... I wouldn't as they are likely epoxy'd or something like that. Just use compressed air and make sure you have the diaphragms out prior to cleaning. The dirt might be from mud wasps.
Hi ,... thanks for the vid. I have a 2000 yamaha 250 virago and was smelling a very rich mixture. I started to lean out the mix screw 1/8 of a turn at a time and took ride. Kept doing this until screw bottomed out and no change in rich smell or performance of the byke. How is this possible? (starting point was about 1 and 1/2 turns out)
