I'm sure your mention of listening for the sweet spot set a brigade of home mechanics on one ear for their insistence of having a marker to draw to rather than a honeyed sound sensed only by frequency and pitch. I'm certain the maker has some involved procedure that will satisfy some of them better, but often a near miss is a whole lot better than a bad guess. Thanks a bunch for the rundown with your method. The plugs should tell just how very close you've gotten with a few longer rides and a plug pull for inspection. Appreciate the video.
Great video, Lui. Keep them wheels Rollin'....Greetings from Thailand. I do mine looking at the color of the plugs. If too dark, I go 1/4th in, if too lean one fourth, out. And so on. Even having Color Tune, I prefer this way.
@@lui1760 You've helped me enough. Thanks. Yamaha specs for that bike is 2 turns out of the fuel/air screw, and with your indications, one of them is just 1/2 turn out and both carburetor have the same pilot jet and both are new. Go figure. I've ordered a new kit for the carburetors with all the jets.
The only way I can get my bike to start is to have the choke on the highest setting. How should I adjust the screw so that the bike can start with minimal choke?
immisterim hey! Thanks for watching. The best thing you can do is set your pilot screws. I started my 85 with full choke all the time. No worries there. It’s an older bike. Needs a bit help.
Very informative video! Is it better to have the spark plug out and still connected to the spark plug cap, rather then just removing the cap but keeping the plug in?
I also have two questions.. but when I want to put it in 1st or 3rd gear, the engine dies and why does it only work in a spark plug with a good spark plug and good current?? Mulțumesc..
Might have to check your idle knob. Make sure it stays around 1,000-1,200 RPMs at all times. You may have to adjust all the time because it’s an older bike. Make sure to check air/fuel ratio as well by the carbs.
My 700 has a hanging idle. (Drops back down to idle very slow). I have new manifold boots and spraying carb cleaner around doesn’t seem to indicate an air leak that I can find. Could a lean setting on the pilot screws cause this?
I’d recommend a sync and adjust pilot mix screw. Since you replaced boots. Once that’s done, adjust the knob to 1-1.2k Rpms. It’s an older bike so you’ll probably have to adjust the knob couple times throughout your ride. Nothing to be worried about 😃
@@lui1760 when adjusting the mixture screws, I got the highest idle when I would turn the screw nearly all the way in. Does turning the screw in cause the mixture to be leaner or richer? Just so I can diagnose my issue
@@naturesrecorder9099 you want to get your idle as low as possible before it shuts down and turn it back out right before it starts getting high. That’s the sweet spot
@@naturesrecorder9099 Turning the screw in = leaner, turning it out = richer. You can turn it all the way in (do not force it in, apply normal finger pressure) and then two complete turns out.
Hello Lui, after cleaning the carburettors like in your video, I started my XV70 but I have one problem, The rear cylinder only works if I rev up to around 1500-2000 rpm. as if he was not getting fuel at idle. The front cylinder is ok and can work alone at idle speed, what do you think it is a matter of synchornization or pilot mixture screws?
That is very true. I apologize for having terrible angles. I will better that next time! You see the carbs? Right next to the bowl you'll see a little "pole" sticking out. Inside there theres a screw. Mine is a flat head. Could be Phillip's in SOME cases.. try adjusting that till you find the sweet spot. Sweet spot = right before you lose RPMs and gain RPMs. That's the sweet spot. You can barely tell on the video I think. If you hear closely, as I "close" it, it wants to shut off. When I "open" it, it gains RPMs. You dont want too much RPMs.
So what I did, I turned it down as low as it goes before it shuts off. After that, I "open" it until i hear it gains RPMs you'll hear a steady idle. You'll have to "open" slowly so you wont open too much. You can try it a couple times so you can hear it. **IF** you have aftermarket pipes, you may need a dynojet jet kit level 1.
Trent Murkins choke was actually off. And turn it on like normal. Warm up the bike first. Then do like the video. You might have to raise the idle knob so it stays on
Hello, I've just recently disassembled my carbs and had it running for a solid 10 minutes and then the next day I started it and it was only running off the rear cylinder, like I could grab the pipe in the front, any knowledge you could throw my way?
Hey! Have you updated some of the components? Coils, wires, plugs? Also the tci? These bikes are pretty old and they might start having some wear and tear. Sounds like a spark issue.
Love the vidios I have a varago 535 mint condition serviced new coils air filter plugs clend carbs all done grate starter but front solender is colder then the back one it's 95 with 16 thousand mls up on it no back firing can you help pls thanks Joe here
Long shot for a reply but I recently did a carb rebuild of my own and I also did the left pod delete from one of your videos. I put everything together and the bike idles really high. I tried using this video to adjust the carbs but moving the mixture screw doesn’t do anything. Any idea where to start?
Hey! You can start by checking out the idle ‘knob’ I believe it’s on the right side of the carbs. Literally looks like a little knob. You’ll be able to see the difference when you “open” or “close” it
Are you referring to the knob with the spring seen on your video? If so, this knob doesn’t do anything either. I backed out the knob to where it doesn’t make any contact with the bracket that pulls the throttle cable. I did see your other videos as well regarding the carb rebuild and you adjusted the floaters. I did not do this, would that maybe cause such a big idle?
@@AlbertoMartinez-wu4ly might have to sync carbs. Or you left one of the carb “nipples” open. Gotta cap them all. Here’s a group on Facebook that has very knowledgeable people. I’m also in that group if you’d like to post videos/pictures. facebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=share
This usually means air is getting into the cylinder via a hole between the carb and cylinder. Check those rubber boots for cracks, and make sure all the vacuum lines are correct and sealed.
Hello Lui. Can this be done on a virago 1100? I know there is a capped jet( air/ fuel mix?) on the top of the carbs just off the Diaphragm covers. Not too sure if this is adjustable though.....
@@lui1760 cool. i just found a few articles on Viragohelp.com that deals with exactly what my problem is; after market pipes and pilot circuit adjustment. Thanks for you help and i quite like you videos; helpful and funny too occasionally. Here are the links; www.viragohelp.com/virago-aftermarket-pipes/ www.viragohelp.com/virago-mikuni-carburetors/
Good question! I forgot to mention that on the video. I had to adjust the KNOB (right hand side) and put more RPMs. If that carb isn't getting enough flow, it's just how you get it to run solo.
lui ochoa so I turned my idle screw up and I still can’t get the bike to start on the 2nd cylinder. I turn the choke on and it starts for about 2 seconds then dies.
leroy 7.79s Choke raises idle by default. Often times up to 3k. If it goes as high as 5k the idle might be set a bit too high to begin with as the extra fuel added by the choke gets some extra air so the RPMs go up higher. However, it is crucial for the person to understand: choke is NOT an on or off switch, you can go halfway or quarter. Start the engine with full choke and gently start taking it off. Wherever you get a 2k idle, leave it there for a minute or two.
I’m going to try this out. But when my xv1000 is warming up on choke, it spews fuel out exhaust. Once warm and choke is off runs great. (Backfires getting bit more frequent tho) Any idea? Thanks for the straight forward video.
Yes! That’s how I like to keep my videos. Straight forward. And your floats may need adjustment. (Carbs) id fix that ASAP before the bike leaves you stranded. 😃 happened to me. Haha
@@Mumbles-iz7tl I know a guy that’s my carb guy. BUT his prices are up there. He bench syncs and all. You’ll just have to tune perfectly after install yourself. He refurbishes all. ...I do have videos on my channel too if you want to try yourself. Huge tip. Remember to take pictures and remember which parts come from each carb. They’re different sizes.
I actually didnt worry about the color. Mine was a nice blue-ish color. Strong. What color is your spark? Just gotta find the sweet spot. Which is right before you gain RPMs.
Ahhh!! Yes!! Once you do this process, you run it for couple days. Check again and you're looking for a nice tan-ish color. If they're too black, you're rich. Too brown/dry it's lean. If they're black and wet, you got a carb issue.
Haha that’s the same way I felt man.. I provided some videos on here that helped me. I got it all as a message and I turned it into a video for people like me. When I was stuck. Lol got a couple vids of the bike too!
Anthony Giacchina to be honest, I’m not 100% sure. But if you like, you can try 1 1/2 turns out or 2 turns out. Keep checking your plugs every 100 miles and turn a 16th of a turn every time to get your plugs right.
@@Kartoon3thirteen I’m sure you have Facebook, join this group! Great people AND you can post videos/pictures facebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=sharefacebook.com/groups/3345910372093433/?ref=share&exp=9594
