Changing the Xmax 300 Belt drive (or any other CVT Scooter) is quite straight forward. With basic tools, anyone can tackle this job in about an hour. This video is how I did it, maybe it will inspire you to do the same!!
@@dariodisipulo1241 (I already answered this a bit dom below, here's a copy) i.ibb.co/jL5CR74/20200823-200833.jpg i.ibb.co/0V862nj/20200823-200850.jpg I made my own tool. I got this iron bar from an hardware store and 3 bolts and some self locking nuts. Building it is too easy for a video. Just cut a 20 cm bit and bolt it to the main part. Done. The blue and white parts is just heat shrink I had left. Makes it look cooler!
Melly and I enjoyed the video. I always enjoy seeing how things work and how to service them. If the video didn't have music it would almost be one of those ASMR vids that are all the rage. Well shot and well lit. Easy to understand even without any dialog. I could do the same service just by referring to your video. Well done. Cheers Bro 🍻
Great video, thanks. I would suggest highlighting the recessed centre bolt on the crankcase cover though, which can be missed when removing that cover. The crankcase cover should easily remove once all the bolts are removed, with nothing but a light tap.
Wow, very detailed, I really have to save your video. Thanks. Can you please show a video showing gear and bearings replacement or checkup also for Xmax 300.
Eventually I'll do it. I would do it now, and loads of other stuff but my Xmax doesn't need that job done. If I got a sponsor or some sort of income from this channel than yes, I would do many more maintenance and upgrade videos. As it sits, I cannot change parts just for a video.
De todos os vídeos que vi, o teu é o que tem mais detalhado os pequenos cuidados que são muito importantes, até à passagem do cabo do abs detalhada. Muito bom. Tenho pena que infelizmente sejam raras as oficinas têm os cuidados de limpeza que tu tiveste. Punha a mota a reparar na tua oficina sem preocupações, porque cuidas das máquinas dos clientes como se fosse a tua. A tua oficina é onde?
Obrigado pelas palavras! A minha "oficina" é em casa. Tenho feito alguns trabalhos em motas de amigos e pouco mais. Aprendi tudo com o meu pai, eng de máquinas de profissão e grande entusiasta das duas rodas, como eu. A ideia original deste canal do RU-vid é ter um patrocínio e fazer reparações/manutenção gratuita a quem necessita. Isto é, a pessoa deixa cá a mota e é feito o vídeo da reparação. O dono leva a mota reparada a custo zero, o patrocinador fica com a publicidade e eu vou alimentando a minha "oficina" com ferramentas e equipamentos. Uma quimera? Fica até tento, os vídeos vão saíndo.
Olha, olha quem ele é 😁 Tens jeito para os videos,tens meios ,continua.😉 (bem melhor que eu🙂) Ps:o vareador da minha estava a abrir mais que esse,o parafuso do vareador teve de ser tirado com maquina pneumática para pesados, exageraram na cola 😆 Abraço
O parafuso do variador é uma questão de alavanca. Como disse Arquimedes, dai-me um ponto de apoio e levantarei o mundo. Eu uso uma chave normal e um tubo como extensão, funciona sempre. O video ficou um pouco longo mas parece-me melhor e com calma que quem vê este tipo de video procura informação. Mais virão, outras motas e outros temas.
great video id just like to add that you can fit the belt without taking the clutch off if needs be pull the clutch unit together with your hands and theres enough room to take the old belt off and install new belt obviously this video is alot more detailed and the professional way to do it
Hi Alex wonderful video on v-belt replacement. Question..whats name of the tool you use to hold tight the hub to prevent turning during dismantling the centre bolt. TIA.
It's a clutch holder tool. I made my own, the one you see in the video. There's pictures of it a few comments up. i.ibb.co/jL5CR74/20200823-200833.jpg i.ibb.co/0V862nj/20200823-200850.jpg
Esses roletes tem uma posição para os colocar? Na minha Honda forza 300 tem de ser em apenas uma posição que é preciso olhar para eles com cuidado. Também fiz um vídeo de como montar a correia e outros componentes. Fizeste um bom trabalho de edição parabéns :)
Viva! Obrigado pelas palavras de encorajamento! Não, estes roletes não têm posição. Regra geral, quando têm posição vem marcado com "out" ou uma seta, como na correia. Vou continuar com os vídeos, mesmo que sejam trabalhos _simples_ . Sempre pode ajudar alguém.
4 thing missing one the molikote grade on the bolt for the variator and second should regrease the cvt torque driver pin and bearing !number 3 polish the shoes clutch with sand paper .4 check the torque driver spring limit 99.9 mm (new is 111mm)
Nice input. The bearing had plenty of grease, this was an early 1st belt swap (thanks, covid!) but, true, a little grease goes a long way. I did sanded the clutch shoes a tiny bit, they were almost like new and a separate clutch video will be coming. The torque driver I used for the clutch and primary fixed sheave bolt goes up to 150 N.m and was recently checked. Also a gadget video coming on it! Not sure what the torque driver pin is, could you elaborate? The Molibdenum grease is, as you say, needed but the bolt had plenty of it. I'm trying to get accurate info on replacing it for bearing grease, far more common and easier to get.
@@bikesmith my was just suggestion for help! torque driver pin is the pin is inside the torque driver ! after removed the clutch and spring and also the seat ,have one more seat and inside is also o'ring and seal for keep the grease ,there is 4 pin guide and 4 collar guider for the first and secondary sheave to grease and also bearing . i don't know how to elaborate o modified the torque driver !
They don't need grease, it all spins as a set. Sure, the secondary sheave slides on the shaft but any grease could be centrifuged to the sheave making the belt slip. The Yamaha service manual does not call for any lubricant of any type, they actually warn not to allow grease to contact the primary sheave assembly. Just make sure everything is spotlessly clean when you assemble it and you're golden! Ride safe!
Can consult what is the distance between the holes on the variator? Which variator/clutch holding tool did you use? Any link? mine seems a bit short. Thank you very much.
i.ibb.co/jL5CR74/20200823-200833.jpg i.ibb.co/0V862nj/20200823-200850.jpg I made my own tool. I got this iron bar from an hardware store and 3 bolts and some self locking nuts. Building it is too easy for a video. Just cut a 20 cm bit and bolt it to the main part. Done. The blue and white parts is just heat shrink I had left. Makes it look cooler!!
115nm for front pulley and 75nm for rear pulley? Is that true? If im not mistaken, the yamaha nmax & aerox only require 49nm front and 45nm rear. 115hm and 75nm for xmax seems like too stronk??
@@bikesmith sir, can u share me the link to the original factory manual please. I would like to see others parts id code You're right, I just tighten my cvt and it requires 110-115ish torque nm. Kudos. You're the man.
@@bikesmith Thanks for the reply. I just bought the OEM belt. With it I know for sure that it fits and that it will last over 20000km. My Xmax has 24000km and still runs on the first belt, it´s time for a change though as I´m not reaching top speed anymore
Ciao Alex! Avrei una domanda da farti... La cinghia di trasmissione deve essere cambiata ogni 20000km, ma i rulli hanno la stessa durata oppure vanno controllati prima? Grazie mille!
Viva! Neste caso uso limpador de travões (brake cleaner). Este produto tem inúmeras aplicações. Além de, obviamente, limpar travões, limpa contactos e desengurdura como nenhum outro. Com um spray destes e uma escova de dentes velha deixas tudo como novo! Nós discos de travão, por exemplo, é só aplicar e deixar secar.
@@bikesmith That would be a very good video. I like the Yamaha XMAX 300cc very much and want to buy one but they are expensive. I don’t have the money.
Alex , vc tem o manual de serviço da XMAX? Caso tenha ,tem interesse em negociar? Preciso dá uma geral na minha XMAX e gostaria de olhar no manual de serviço
Hi, great video, i would like to ask how loosen the case to the vbelt, i cant remove the case i removed all the screws and ive been strugling to remove it, TIA
Ah! If you're sure you removed all the bolts, the use the trick you can see in the video. On the cover, near the wheel axis, there's a little metal protrusion. Inset a wooden handle through the wheel and tap it gently, it comes.righ out
Ups, that's not good! i.ibb.co/8zFnYmG/Screenshot-20210606-221549-Drive.jpg As you can see, the torque value is correct. When using a rachet torque wrench make sure to rotate it back a couple of "clicks" otherwise it might not work. I've seen it happen loads of times, maybe that was your case.
@@bikesmith hello Alex, I appreciate your answer, I already ordered two bolts (rather more than less) which should be delivered this Friday, will see... ibb.co/MpYmFPF Thank you.
@@bikesmith well, second attempt has been successful :) V-Belt, trans/engine oil and spark plug already changed :), of course thanks to your guidelines. I did just 20km after maintenance but I think that everything is working properly :) I wish you all the best, tomorrow I am going to test X-ADV 21 for 45min so I am very curious
No grease! It spins as a set. If grease was used on the shaft, centrifugal forces would push it, well, everywhere. The yamaha workshop manual actually warns about it.
@@bikesmith right, but what about the spindle or sheave surfaces, i see certain videos where it’s added, some it’s not. the service manual says grease the bolt threads and mating surfaces. i’m going to perform this in a day or so. i just don’t want to mess it up, thanks for expertise or knowledge on this.
It does say that. So, Lubricate the bolt threads and mating surface (of the bolt's shoulders and the corresponding mating point). Then comes the notice Do not allow grease to contact the primary sheave assembly. Just add a bit of MoS2 grease to the bolt's threads if it looks dry - it probably isn't. Use the smallest amount possible!
@@bikesmith ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2T_L3rMvHEY.html at 9:42 this mechanic greases the area in question, perhaps he is not doing this correctly. a similar video shows a mechanic in thailand doing the same. i’m certain that you are correct, but i do find their procedure a little puzzling. thanks for your help and feedback. my xmax servicing is important to me
Maybe he changed de seal in there and that is just to help set it in. It still needs cleaning before assembly. Again, the workshop manual specifically warns about grease contamination. Just see how it comes out, bone dry. I know it is a bit counter intuitive but that's the way it is.
@@bikesmith Thank you very much, I have another question to see if you help me, where can I get the workshop manual for this bike, to know all the torque values of the nuts?
@@bikesmith Thank you very much, is that I have a question at 11:20 of the video the cylinder that you take out of the variator, when you put it back in, that cylinder has grease? or does it get like this? Also, what else do you recommend me to do? since my motorcycle has 20 thousand kilometers?
@@luiscarlosredondoaguirre4345 No, the spacer does NOT need any grease. In fact, if you used grease, the centrifugal force would eventually carry the grease over to the variator making the belt slip. So.. No grease, WD40, motor oil, nothing. just make sure it is clean. At 20k , make sure to change the spark plug (see my video) , change the motor oil (video coming) and replace both air filters. Eventually, the valves will need checking (also a video coming on that) and the forks will benefit from fresh oil. Both these jobs are easier that the belt replacement, believe it or not! For now, I'm just waiting on parts. Ride safe!
