Yanmar L100 Diesel Port and Polish 

I've spent hundreds of hours grinding, blending and polishing aircraft frames and other parts. I spray or dip the carbide burrs into oil before starting the job and every few minutes there after. Works great. Take your time and use light pressure. Heavy pressure generates heat then the aluminum sticks to the burr. High Speed Steel burrs work very well on aluminum and are much cheaper than carbide. I'll have to give the candle trick a try as mentioned by Nathan.

The problem is because the stock valve springs are too weak for higher RPMs causing valve float and the rough running. You can use the Comp Cam valve spring set GP961-2 that are used on Briggs and Stratton engines for racing and that should help with the miss firing at high rpm

The "Porting" could easily be done within a Blasting Cabinet for anyone that has one. When it comes to modifications and experimental Engine works, It's ALWAYS worth it!

Thanks for the video. I have on of these running my generator and was looking for the governor. 👍

Those springs are way different. The diesel has more coils, thicker coils, and those springs would make a cam lobe completely circular and much smaller, really fast

Thanks for the lawn mower shifting problem video. I got my yard mowed today.

I have only just started the video and I don’t want to be one of those guys but here I go… A port and polish actually hurts low end torque but helps high rpm, when your not even hitting 4K rpm I can’t impinge it makes a measurable improvement, also as you can see by the hit and miss and high rpm the timing is off for this rpm (white smoke is diesel that didn’t ignite) I know nothing about the fuel pumps on these diesels but with the governor removed if you can advance the timing on the fuel pump the rpms and power will keep rising!

Ah Yes, in the name of science and entertainment, definitely worth it! I can’t believe you haven’t built a ‘Redneck Computer’ controlled dyno yet ;)

The extra sealant is probably the source of the debris clogging the oil pump screen.

She just needs injector pump mods / stronger springs on the pump return, may help.. but seems like you have other problems still becauseat 3400 RPM they normally dont do that. . , did you remove your shims or just go down to the smallest size you could find. ?? Seems like you actually have a timing issue also.. But.. During "redline" it sure seems like its floating the values itself still seeing you are just blasting un burnt fuel like crazy.

I think that since it's a generator engine and thereby designed to operate at the fixed speed of 3600 in order to produce 60 hertz, then the optimum fuel injection pump timing is preset to 3600. With no other way to adjust fuel injection timing for engine speed, it will always run rough at any speed other than a constant 3600.

Chuck the valve stem ends in a drill an lap them that way. Beats killing your hands trying to use the suction cup lapping tool. Just a thought for next time buddy.

the carbide bits with bigger spaces between the cutters are made for aluminum, those are for steel thats why they plug up. harbor fright has both for steel and aluminum.

red head "real Job" Jesse makes an appearance

Forced induction on a diesel is where real gains can be made. If you're building it to just do drag runs you can skip intercoolers and integrated oiling systems for single pass runs.

Did you do anything to the flywheel for the sensor to pick up a rpm signal? Im putting the same engine in a tractor im restoring and ordered a tach that uses a similar sensor.

I have a build suggestion take half of a riding mower and half of a four wheeler. I call it the lawn wheeler

Bro the popping and white smoke did you ever get through that to make it run smoothly,

Your fuel injector pump return spring is the limiting factor and not the air flow, just FYI.

BTW... an extra 600 rpm means a LOT in the higher gears

1:14 that is the first time I have heard you say something like that ever

Was Furbie to afraid to watch this one?

Soak your Burr in hydrochloric acid also known as muriatic it will eat the aluminum and no the burr. 🤗 Better Living Through Chemistry keep up the good work

Whatever happened to this diesel engine? Did you install it in a mower?

Lol , just thought I would ask.. What cetane leavels are you running in her?? It actually could be all your problems..

Might do this to a smaller gas engine. Nothing expensive

Porting a diesel is kind of pointless as it doesn't have a carb, but smoothing it out and getting rid of ridges etc is good for better air flow.

Very nice I would like to see what you could get with one of those RHB31 turbos on there

Nebber b are also called rasps

hi can i ask what is the tappet settings and witch is the longer rode meant to go in please

It was worth it for the experience.

If you have a "File Rasp" you may be able to get the melted aluminum "slag" off of your Carbide Bit.

enjoyed watching.

Any game is probably worth it whether or not it's enough remains to be seen when you put it on something and run it

Dang she is a QT and has grease hands and pants 🤗🤗 wow what a keeper

I get it with oven cleaner but to be honest my go to cleaner is naphtha.

you should make the old chevy power wheels into a gas or desiel power wheels

I bet someone ran it with the packing oil. Mine was like that ,it galled a lifter from not spinning during break in. I was able to save it but that stuff is nasty like crude oil, or almost like heated tar.

If you want to do a hire rpm you also need a bigger fuel igniter

What is the status on your older videos with the commets and links to parts off?

Mas klo mao beli alat nya cra nya gmna ya tempat ku ga ada yng jual

where the hell is the furbie

Where did you buy the tachometer?

Can you ajust the Fuel to have more

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE STRIP IT ROOM UPSTAIRS?

very nice job, where did you get the rpm gauge?

I bet a turbo would really wake that thing up.

that "oil filter" is a intake screen to the oil pump.

BUT WAIT! There's MORE! LOLOL

its misfiring bad

What he saying