Thanks for the video. I have a Yanmar 2210D that I bought back in the 80's. I have a number of tractors, but I can never seem to get rid of the Yanmar. It has broken through the ice on my lake to become fully submerged, had a huge tree fall on the front smashing the grill, hood, radiator, I have repeatedly asked it to do the work of a 40hp tractor .. etc.. and yet with normal maintenance, the thing never fails me. Mine had 800+ hours on it when I bought it, now has 4600 hours and is running as strong as the day I bought it. I do all of my own work on my tractors, and get most of my Yanmar parts from Hoye too. I will surely admit that you are more patient than me, my video would have shown a few wrenches being thrown if I had to re-do the brakes a few times. Nice job! And to one of the other comments, mine is hard to steer when empty as well, always has been. I put a larger diameter steering wheel on it because when the front loader is full, it was very difficult to steer, especially at slow speeds. I still have the rice paddy tires on the front which don't help the ease of steering when on dry ground. I went to industrial ag tires on the rear, and will do that on the front as well once the front tires are shot.
Hi Jeff, thank you for your thoughtful comment. That is great to hear your Yanmar has held up for so many hours, and I hope you were ok when your tractor went through the ice! Although I have only put on about 20 hours in the past 2 years of owning the tractor, it has allowed me to tackle projects that would not have been possible without it, and I am grateful to have it available even if I just need to use it for 10 minutes. I do have some more tractor videos in the pipeline so I hope you'll check them out. Take care -Noah
ooh dats Purdy, its all clean and shiny, makes it go faster.. lots of water damage in a lot of these tractors it seems. were they worked hard in rice paddies and put up wet before they got shipped over from Japan?
Thanks for your comment! I have been curious how the water got into the brakes... It doesn't seem like it could have happened from being left outside in the rain, so I wonder if it was from being submerged. The tractor works great though, and the brakes are still working well 3 years later.
Thank you for sharing. I have a Hinomoto 15 that looks the same as your machine. I think these Japanese machines borrowed from eachother. Hopefully I can get mine done too!
@@jeremykirk9641 Hi Jeremy, I was purchasing my parts from a company called Hoye Tractor. My understanding is that they were bought out, and their old website now goes to another site which I have not used. My tractor is running well so thankfully I haven't needed any parts recently. -Noah
Thanks for the video! I just got the same tractor last weekend (same loader too). Question for you, is yours difficult to steer even without a load in the bucket? Mine is tough to steer going forward and almost impossible to steer when backing up. I'm worried that the 4wd components in the front axle are worn out (bushings bearings etc.). Zerks all take grease on the steering components and turns fine when I jack it up. Curious how yours is. Thanks!
Hi Paul. Thanks for your comment, and I hope the tractor ends up working out for you. My tractor steers easily and it's very maneuverable with no load in the bucket, moving forward and back. With a heavy load in the bucket, there's some added resistance in the steering, but it still works fine. So yes, it seems like there is something off with your steering. I don't know enough about how the steering works to offer an opinion on what the issue might be, but I have a service manual that has sections about adjusting the steering gear box and the steering components in the front axle. So if you don't have a service manual, you might consider getting one from Hoye. My tractor did come with a couple of steering issues. There was a lot of play in the steering, which I reduced by tightening the joints in the steering linkage. I also have bad leaks in the front axle knuckle seals, and I will be replacing those soon (and I'll make a video of that process).
@@noahbeil Thanks for the response! I'll maybe have to dig into it this winter too. I'm hopeful that it's just a bearing and/or some bushings and not the king pin ($300 on Hoye for that part). Good luck with your project and look forward to your video!
Hi friend, thanks for your comment. There is not a subframe for the loader, but it's on my long-term todo list to make one. I have other higher priority maintenance/improvement tasks that I need to do on the tractor first... And the box blade sure is great for maintaining our road and driveway!
@@noahbeil Ive seen a few with it, but no one shows where they tie into at. I currently rebuilding the front drop axles on mine. Def needs a sub frame as the previous guy broke the bell housing...
@@Hillbillysniper when I got the tractor, I made some sketches for a subframe. To me, the rear attachment seems like the hardest to design. Initially I thought I would connect to the mount of the tow bracket, then I was thinking I would make plates to use the bolt holes on the casting that's around the rear axles. That's as far as I got.
Did a brake job on a Iseki TX1500F on one side won't make the tractor come to a complete stop is that normal or are they suppose to slow the tractor down only? First tractor also! Thinking I might need to redo the other side!
Hi there, and thanks for your comment. Congrats on your first tractor! Since I redid my brakes I have no problem stopping my tractor, even when I'm working on our steep driveway. When I jacked up the rear end, I could really tell if I had the pedal adjustment correct, so maybe you could try that before you move on to the other side (although it might be a good idea to do the other side so you know they are both solid).
@@noahbeil will try adjusting the linkage if that don't work I will get the pads done on the other side for know I'm going to just have to take it out of gear when I what to fully stop!
@@lgvmobile haha be careful out there! After my previous comment, it occurred to me that if the side that you redid was braking correctly, you would at least feel that side grabbing when you put on the brakes, and maybe that wheel would skid while the other is turning, so I'm really wondering if it's the linkage adjustment. I hope you get it sorted out!
Did you happen to buy a manual for this tractor from hoye? I’d like to have a copy but $35 was a bit steep for an operation manual. I mostly just want fluid weight, capacity and drain plug for trans.
@@ethanfoster6438 Hi Ethan. The tractor came with an operation manual. The transmission fluid capacity is listed as 10 quarts. In the manual, there are several types of transmission fluids listed, but my online research lead me to J20C as the type to use. This page has more info about fluids: ymowners.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=580 I'm not sure what you meant by drain plug. And I can look at the battery this weekend. Regarding the cost of the manual, Hoye is a small company serving a small subset of the population so I can understand why some of their products might seem expensive. I am happy to support them when I can so they will hopefully be around in the future if I need parts for my tractor.
@@ethanfoster6438 Ethan, the battery in my tractor is a Super Start Premium 51PRMJ, 500 CCA, 85 reserve capacity. I don't see battery details in the manual so I have no idea if this is the original spec battery, but it fits in the tray and starts the tractor fine.
The brakes are actually super easy to re and re. I first thought maybe you had the plate indexed wrong when you bolt it back onto the rear end. Kind of hard to explain but you need to be aware of the posistion of the brake lever when you go to put it back on. Its easy to get the lever indexed wrong when you put the new shoes on if you know what I mean? The other thing that you MUST do as you mentioned is re adjust the linkage back to normal with the new replacement shoes otherwize the new shoes will be way too tight in the drum. They work great when adjusted right and should now last you years . Just pull the plate off annually to clean and inspect them and also keep them adjusted right. Great video and thanks for posting it.!
Not being a smartass but my brake system not only have an adjustment on brake linkage. It also has a bolt with a backing nut on the place where you put smaller spring. Loosing backing nut,turn bolt wit wrench or screw driver and it shouldnt lock the wheel
I forgot to tell you since your a new yanmar owner,if it has a light for the temperature,check your manual first. Mine calls for 50/50 coolant,no waterpump on it. It will run hot on you with 100% coolant or water. I flushed mine and put 100% coolant in it,ran fine idling and for about 20 minutes Bush hogging. Then the ole idiot light came on and guess who was the idiot,right,me,lol
Hi Robert. I can't say I've ever been accused of doing something "the lazy way." Would you consider adding an expanded comment where you take time to explain the right way so that others on RU-vid can learn from your experience? Or perhaps film and edit your own video where you show the right way? This is my first tractor and I was figuring out how to improve the brakes as I went along using common sense and a little knowledge I have from working on a few vehicles over the years. My goal in uploading a video like this is to make it a little easier for someone else who wants to tackle a project like this. And I'm certainly happy to learn from constructive comments. -Noah
Good morning, i never at any point called u lazy ,the method u used @-16.46 - 17.47 is what i was reffering to . It would have been easier to clean and quicker for you , compared to how detailed u were in the beginning and with other areas you did, I dont do videos , but i own 2 Massey 165 and 1 , 290 4x4 and i do most the work on them myself ,
@@robertdonald4409 Hi Robert. Thank you for your follow up comment. Sounds like you have some nice tractors. I checked out the portion of the video you referred to. I'll expand on my approach, not to try to change your opinion, but in case anyone else is curious. Based on exploded part diagrams on Hoye Tractor's website I assumed that if I removed the bent washer and the bolts, the brake drums would come off, but I wasn't sure if the bent washers would be reusable after being flattened. The washers are not available on the Hoye Tractor website, and I'm not sure where else I'd be able to find them. They certainly didn't look like anything I'd seen at my local hardware store. Perhaps I could make a replacement from a standard washer. But the process of getting the brakes functioning was already stretching over several weeks, so I wasn't thrilled with adding more delays. Or I could just leave the drums in place and clean around them as best as I could with Q-tips and a dental pick, which I did, and it worked fine. It's now been a year since I did this project and the brakes have been working great.
Hi Earl. I'm not sure if you are commenting on audio quality or my speaking voice or something else. I'm open to receiving specific constructive feedback if you have some. Take care. -Noah
@@earlnieforth6837 Thanks Earl. I talk slowly sometimes because I'm thinking about what to say. It doesn't feel natural to me to talk to a camera, but I think I'm getting used to it as I make more videos. I appreciate your feedback.
