How to video on the service and maintenance of the new Switch Infinity and Linkage on the SB series of bikes from Yeti. [Links] Rock City Cycles: rockcitycycles.ca [Socialize] Instagram: / island.bike.life
I've noticed you're not making video's any longer. Selfishly I wish you'd start again. These are my go-to video's because of how clear and to the point they are.
I will say, this video has single handedly saved me on every service I have completed on my Yeti SB 150. Thanks for such an informative video and a special thank you for including all the torque ratings
Great Vid, extremely useful. Tip not mentioned is male bolt for the linkage may require a hammer to remove. I used a 10 mm hex wrench pushed against a 10 mm socket to pound it out from the other side. It would not move at all. Reading comments, seems like others have had a similar problem. Thinking Yeti should have made a larger diameter tunnel in the frame.
Getting my SB150 ready for the new riding season and this will be my first full tear down of the linkage. Saving this video for reference if I need it.
Nice video. I've been servicing the SI since I bought my SB130 late last year but haven't done a tear-down on the upper linkage yet. I never knew about the guide pins so I just ordered one from Yeti, that should make my life a lot easier.
Thank you for these videos. They are very helpful. I like the music but think it is a tiny bit loud. I paid the 30 (less my first time order as a Yeti owner 25% discount) for the grease and matching gun.
Excellent point, IBL. Even if repacking bearings extends their life, it's best not to make it a mandatory maintenance step in a public forum in which warranty issues could be in play.
Agreed that the switch pivot bearings should not be removed, but these are not sealed bearings (unlike the dogbone link bearings, which are sealed and cannot be serviced), so they will dry out if not repacked. Yeti recommends replacing the bearings every year so of course does not recommend repacking. If they are regularly spun and repacked, they will last many years.
When I take mine apart I make sure the bearings are spun. I have done this on various Yeti bikes, one of which, the SI bearing lasted 3 years before they started to get crunchy. I suppose you could fully clean them and repack them to extend the life but given that is not a recommendation by Yeti I am not going to suggest or endorse that for people for a few reasons including potential warranty complications if damages should occur. But yes, it could be done, and likely would extend the life of the bearings and SI link as a whole.
Wondering if you had suggestions for collar axel that does not thread out when I do this maintenance for my yeti sb4.5c? When I unscrew the collar axel, it pushes the nut on the drive side out of the frame instead of coming out. Used a rubber mallet as suggested by another u-tuber. Worked good on the upper collar axel to the dog bone but not the lower one connected to the switch infinity. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Fyi. On sb150 and sb165 you can access the rear grease port without removing the main pivot bolt... Remove shock and rear wheel and swing the rear triangle upwards
This is actually a great tip as I cannot get the main pivot bolt to unscrew out, despite whacking several times with a rubber mallet, Removing the shock is actually much preferable to continuing to pound against the bolt.
Awesome video I have a 140 on the way but just the c1 build. Will you be doing videos on shock and fork set up. Even though mine I ant the factory I’m sure it will be the same principle
Umm probably not. Suspension setup is so order specific. The setup guide on Yetis website is good to get most people right where they need to be within a few clicks
Hi I buy a yeti last week sb100 what Caine a grease can I use and it's the same Nm to my yeti thanks nice video God bless you 👍🖐 I'm from San Diego California
I think it is an AC Delco. Any auto parts store will have something similar. Park tool has one for about double the price. Any high molybdenum grease works. I think that’s what it is called, I got mine at the same auto parts store for $5, enough to a lifetime almost.
Hi! Greetings from Finland! Thanks a lot for your really helpful videos! Just one question concerning the SI service: which RRP adaptor kit (RRP code) do you use with your SB150?
I've just changed the DPX2 for an X2 on a SB130, did find it a struggle to align the the shock extender to the sock? When I'm tightening the bolt it feels like I'm cross threading the bolt. Did you have the same issues? Excellent video by the way. Thanks
So Iv been servicing my link and just realised I don’t have any of the spacers for the link??? It’s an sb140, should I be worried or did they stop using the spacers after a certain age. Thanks 🤘🏻
dude you didn't even clean the bearing while you had everything out? also a better idea is to get some suspension cleaner and to spray out the infinity link, stanchions, seals, and everything before wiping down with a microfiber. this way you remove all of the grime and grit before wiping anything.
Will be ok do this service every year or two? And just using the grease every 30 rides without remove the system will be fine? Any problems with muddy days and the switch infinity sistem? Thanks
I do this service once a year. I normally just add grease to the SI ports every 3-4 months. Mud etc aren’t an issue as long as you follow this schedule.
Something similar to the Park Tool FR-5.2G casette tool. There are more cost effective options out there from X Tools etc but you get what you pay for. Also the grease from Yeti is fine but I got mine from an auto parts store. You need to look for Heavy Duty Molybdenum. I got enough for $5 to last a lifetime.
Great bike , rides smooth ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing .
Basically cleaners for the most part. Nothing harsh at all and most often just water will do the job. My go to is Muc Off cleaner. Works well for everything even when super diluted.
@@IslandBikeLife thanks for the info. So I don’t have to remove the shock or any bolts to service only the SI link? I wouldn’t be doing anything with the dog bone link etc.
@@RobGams If you just want to grease it no you won't. If you do want to fully remove it then you will have to remove the main pivot bolt but the shock can stay connected.
Do you have any advice how to remove the main pivot in an easy way? 3 out of 4 times the bolt is stucked inside the frame and I need to use a sledgehammer to carefully remove the bolt. Every time I reinstall the bolt, after greasing my Switch Infinity, I use some grease for the bold and clean off everything. But the bolt still stuck the next time I want to remove it.
Strange, I haven’t experienced that at all. If it is not sliding out you will have to use some force. Just be careful, a soft rubber mallet will do the trick.
@@IslandBikeLife Have you noticed any gap between the shock link where the lower linkage bolt goes through when installing this into the pivot on the frame? I have about 0.5mm (0.25MM per side) gap between bearings and frame. When I tighten the lower linkage bolt to 15nm the bearings start to bind. It seems as though it needs a shim?
Craig Anderson if I am understanding you correctly I haven’t noticed that at all. There is not any shim or spacer that should be at that location. I am not sure what exactly might be causing that for you.
It isn’t really clamped. It is just balancing essentially. I wouldn’t feel comfortable really clamping down on the frame with any more force than I would use to pick it up.
He forgot to repack the switch bearings, which is essential when servicing the infinity link. Remove the black circular rings around the pivot bolt and pack the bearings with molybdenum (lithium base) grease.
Both Yeti and Fox do not recommend this. When the link is off rotation the bearings is sufficient. The bearings themselves nor the sealed facings should be removed.
I am having trouble removing the main pivot bolt. I have tried tapping it lightly with a hammer but have had no luck. Any idea what I could do to remove it?
Dumb question but you took out the smaller bolt already right? If that is the case and it still won’t come out make sure you have loosened the bolt. I have had that happen where the shaft is stuck. Have the bolt about half way into the threads of the retaining nut/key and using an Allen key that is the same size, roughly an 8mm, place it on the bolt from the nut side. Use a hammer to knock it free. On reassembly make sure to grease the bolt shaft to prevent this the next time.
From my local shop. You can order direct from Yeti also. I am sure you could get a similar pin at a slightly lower cost from an auto parts store or something similar.
