Yong Heng HPA 4500 psi compressor. Operation, fill, top off, fill your own HPA tanks at home! 

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someone wrote this on another review: I think there are a multitude of reasons that people's compressors fail on them. I think it's more of a lack of understanding the physics behind it, and less neglect. I've watched several videos of people's repairs on their Yong Heng compressors. All of them revolve around the piston rings, cylinders, flapper valves, etc.... These are all parts of the high pressure side of the compressor. So here is my theory, and here's what I've done to avoid them. #1. You are dead on correct when you say to bleed the air before turning off the machine. Not only does this drain the gross oil/water mixture that has collected in the compression process, but it relieves the massive amount of pressure pushing against the piston head. On the Yong Heng compressor, there is only 1 piston. But it's a 2 stage compression process. The piston controls 2 functions- high and low pressure. Higher end compressors have 2 or more pistons. Each piston typically controls a specific stage in the compression process. If you ever removed the shroud from the cooling fan on the back of the compressor while the compressor is off, and rotate the fan, you can cycle the piston and hear/create a compression. If you can do that with your hand, imagine the force that would push against that piston if you stopped the compressor mid pump without bleeding off the pressure first. NOT GOOD! But I think another problem people have, even if they bleed off the pressure before shutting off the machine is when they're pressurizing their air hose to charge the tank, and when the hose gets to the "approximate" tank pressure, and they open the valve on the tank. If the pressure in the tank is higher than the pressure in the compressor, then there's a massive push back against the high pressure piston on the compressor. It's very sudden and shocking, and it could be catastrophic to the piston if the pressures are significantly different. Knowing this, here's what I did. I suggest anyone and everyone who owns one of these compressors do this. Buy this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HL1M8XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M37FYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This creates a self regulating, unidirectional check valve. You put this inline between the compressor hose and the tank hose. Obviously the air flow goes through the fill nipple adapter, and out the male quick disconnect. When I use this, I plug the male quick disconnect into the female quick disconnect on my tank, and open the valve all the way. Then I plug the fill nipple adapter end into the female quick disconnect on my compressor. The high pressure in the tank will close the valve on the male fill nipple from the back side (just like it does on the air cylinder on your air rifle tank). When the pressure on the compressor supersedes the pressure of the tank that's keeping the valve closed, the valve will open, and air will start flowing into the tank. It's self regulating, and it's seamless. It adds zero additional stress on the pistons of your compressor. You can actually see the point that the regulator opens because the gauge on the compressor and the gauge on the tank have subtle differences in "actual pressure" readings. You will see the gauge on the compressor move slightly, and the progress of the fill will slow significantly. And because the valve is a 1 way check valve, when you open the drain valve on the compressor just before shutting it off, the pressure in the tank will close the valve again from the back side. Then you simply close the valve on your CF tank, and bleed off the air in the hose. All done, with zero imbalance or unnecessary pressure on your pistons or cylinders. The 2nd issue people are having is with the aluminum (water cooled) heat sync on top of the cylinder head. It's corroding from the inside. When you add heat to unfiltered tap water, it mineralizes and calcifies. Not only does this eventually impede the flow of the water, but it promotes and expedites pitting and corrosion. So the fix to this is simple. Distilled water! Distilled water is evaporated and re-condensed. It has zero chemicals or minerals in it. Get yourself a 5 gallon bucket, and buy yourself 3 gallons of distilled water. It only costs $1.50 per gallon. Keep the water sealed in the bucket with a lid. This can be your permanent cooling supply for your compressor. You just need to make room for it. The way you cool the water is to stick 2 or 3 water bottles in your freezer and get them frozen solid. When the temperature of the compressor starts to get close to the max operating temp, drop in 1 or 2 of the frozen water bottles. By doing this you can actually cool the water without contaminating it. It works flawlessly. Also, when you're done using your compressor, and you shut it off and disconnect the water hose, there is STILL water sitting inside of that little hollow aluminum heat sync. Get a compressor with an air nozzle on it, stick it onto one of the little water intake ports, and squeeze it off. Stand back, because you will be AMAZED how much water comes out. But you can blow air into it for about 20 seconds, and get that thing bone dry inside. So that's my input to your video. I'm not trying to hijack it or anything. I know other people (as well as myself) have spent a LOT of money on their compressors, and they want it to last as LONG AS POSSIBLE! Remember, a wise man learns from his mistakes, but a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others.

You suppose to start the compressor with the high and low relief valves fully open Then close the valves when the compressor is running .Starting the compressor with the valves closed it’s really harsh on the motor and will reduce service life.

Very thoughtful video - thanks for sharing. Incidentally, I have a different understanding about the shutdown procedure. While it's true that we don't want to turn off the compressor prior to bleeding the air pressure from the line to avoid damaging the piston, rod and crankshaft, ANYTHING that prematurely shuts down the compressor before doing a bleed is undesirable. So if we lose commercial power, exceed your high pressure shutoff setting, have an overtemp shutdown, etc, we are overstressing this type of compressor. In your video, you give the impression the position of the switch is important to leave "ON" until doing a bleed (a reasonable literal interpretation of the directions), however in reality if anything at all shut down the compressor before the bleed (switching to "OFF" pulling the power plug or whatever), it's not a desirable condition. I hope this helps - happy trails.

Excellent instructional video! You rock man!!! Straight to the point, clear and descriptive. Thank you!

I got the 110 volt model today and it outdoes the overpriced air venturi compressor hands down and of which I own both.

You may have already did what i'm about to tell you but here it goes. 2 Fahrenheit gauges on Amazon for 5$ an 80 GPM 9$ water pump and a small cooler with Ice and just enough water to cover the pump. You will also get better cooling and less wear with Royal Purple Synthetic less smoke also. I also use an 8" fan to keep the head and lines cooler and my tempature gauge never goes over 98 degrees F. Like I said earlier...you probably already did this but if not it helps crazy good. I also put a thin strip of foam between all metal contact points on the housing and used clear silicon sealant to secure the fan gaurd on the back to stop any and all vibrations that can cause noise. The difference is absolutly head turning and the sound or lack of it is very impressive. i put a vibration activated hour meter on the housing as well so I can properly monitor the hours on the oil and machine. you probably already did these things so take care and thank you. We have some very good compressors that the big name brand guys snub their noses at but thats ok to. Take care bud

You need another oil water separator. That black filter is only good for oil and some water. Guarantee those tanks will have water still in them. There is additional expense to make the pump usable. The good filter costs about half of the pump. I know because I just have bought the pump and the gold molecular sieves filter this week.

All that nice equipment and I had to chuckle when you filled that pea shooter. Thanks for the info buddy. 🍻

"That was, ha, 4 minutes and 20 seconds" Lol Sweet compressor

I have to agree with the other guy leave the valves Open start close good video waiting on mine to get here

I have one of these and it works great. I bkew out a pressure plate because of trying to close off my tank valve and then hurry and bleed before shutting off. I am leaning towards just starting to cut it off before bleeding. I just cannot see the harm in doing it this way. I don't want to continually blow pressure plates.

Thanks for sharing. I’m ordering mine today. It looks very easy to use.

Looking into this pump for our airsoft team. Nice USP

I know that most people prefer to up grade the filter system due to most people shoot electric markers and don't want the oil in the air to damage the board. You use it on electric or mechanical

Great Video,Michael Hey where did you get the Regulator ive been looking for onr that can fit my Bottle and go down to 100 PSI like that as well?????Thanks Jeff

Hey great video thank you for posting it. I wonder how your machine is doing up to this point as your video was made in March also I noticed that after it stops you only release that one bleed valve on the right side, you don't have to release the bleed valve on the other side as well? Also did your Bump come with the water pump that's in the bucket? Thanks bro.

Ok that's one cool ass air gun

Should you unscrew the regulator before filling or can you leave it on? Also Can you unscrew the regulator if the tank is still under pressure?

you need to have the bleed valves open when you start it dude

great video thank you! I'm new to air rifles and go this compressor yesterday. also have you seen the inside of the washing machine?

hello good day, what a good video, the compressor bought it in ALIEXPREES? Greetings from Colombia

Can you fill straight to your guns tank? From the pump?

How is it now after 2 years?

OK, I'm a bit confused! At the 9:30 mark you plug into the gun and start shooting it off. What about filling the gun from your tank to the right PSI for the gun tank? I'm also confused as to this being a Airsoft Gun?

Does anyone know if this compressor can be ran off a power inverter from a car? I don’t have a scba tank yet but looking for something I can take a private range

At 9.50 min before test shooting ,why u said 100 PSI?Is it any regulate valve somewhere at the top of the tank or gun?

How's it holding up?

is this one 220Volts? or the 110 model?

Do you know how many fills this 68ci would give a benjamin marauder 22 cal

Did you have to purchase a water pump separately

What gun was that and did you modify the magazine?

what regulator and adapter is that ive never seen one like that ?

How long to get it to 4500 psi?

Is this using 110v? Your outlet looks to be a 110v outlet but I thought you couldn’t get auto shutoff with 110v you needed 220v?

Is your compressor still good?

Mine went to 4000psi once now won’t put pass 2800psi mine doesn’t have the auto shut off any ideas there is no leaks

Can we use this compressor to fill natural gas or purified biogas?

You know that wip line will cause nothing but trouble with fast auto guns. The wip dosnt store enough air in the line or transfer fast enough to keep up

you don't have a dehydrater your putting water in your tanks

this air can it be used to paintball markers ?

we could see it if you put it in view of the camera duhh.

Get a better mike.